serious brake problems - please help!
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
then the proportioning valve, then MC.
"mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> different proportioning valve. Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
I've
> > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
older
> > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too small.
> I'd
> > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't fix
> it,
> > upgrade the MC.
> >
> > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > >
> > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
> > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
> > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
> > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
> > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
> > > trouble.
> > >
> > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > ideas?
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
> > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
> > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
> > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
> > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
> > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > done.
> >
> >
>
>
then the proportioning valve, then MC.
"mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> different proportioning valve. Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
I've
> > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
older
> > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too small.
> I'd
> > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't fix
> it,
> > upgrade the MC.
> >
> > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > >
> > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
> > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
> > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
> > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
> > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
> > > trouble.
> > >
> > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > ideas?
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
> > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
> > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
> > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
> > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
> > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > done.
> >
> >
>
>
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
then the proportioning valve, then MC.
"mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> different proportioning valve. Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
I've
> > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
older
> > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too small.
> I'd
> > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't fix
> it,
> > upgrade the MC.
> >
> > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > >
> > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
> > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
> > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
> > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
> > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
> > > trouble.
> > >
> > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > ideas?
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
> > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
> > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
> > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
> > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
> > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > done.
> >
> >
>
>
then the proportioning valve, then MC.
"mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> different proportioning valve. Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
I've
> > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
older
> > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too small.
> I'd
> > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't fix
> it,
> > upgrade the MC.
> >
> > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > >
> > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the vehicle
> > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite dangerous
> > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor, the
> > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get into
> > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very serious
> > > trouble.
> > >
> > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > ideas?
> > >
> > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local jeepers
> > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend to
> > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me off.
> > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the brakes,
> > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it back
> > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > done.
> >
> >
>
>
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
Disk brake calipers use much more fluid to stop a vehicle than does a
cylandar <sp> a new MC schould be part of EVERY disk brake upgrade.
Jeremy
"Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
news:l%%Jb.4423$6v2.1821@newssvr22.news.prodigy.co m...
> Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
> then the proportioning valve, then MC.
>
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
> news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> > I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> > different proportioning valve. Anyone?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> > news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
> I've
> > > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
> older
> > > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too
small.
> > I'd
> > > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't
fix
> > it,
> > > upgrade the MC.
> > >
> > > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > > >
> > > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the
vehicle
> > > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite
dangerous
> > > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor,
the
> > > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get
into
> > > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very
serious
> > > > trouble.
> > > >
> > > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > > ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local
jeepers
> > > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend
to
> > > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me
off.
> > > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the
brakes,
> > > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it
back
> > > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > > done.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
cylandar <sp> a new MC schould be part of EVERY disk brake upgrade.
Jeremy
"Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
news:l%%Jb.4423$6v2.1821@newssvr22.news.prodigy.co m...
> Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
> then the proportioning valve, then MC.
>
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
> news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> > I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> > different proportioning valve. Anyone?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> > news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
> I've
> > > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
> older
> > > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too
small.
> > I'd
> > > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't
fix
> > it,
> > > upgrade the MC.
> > >
> > > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > > >
> > > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the
vehicle
> > > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite
dangerous
> > > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor,
the
> > > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get
into
> > > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very
serious
> > > > trouble.
> > > >
> > > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > > ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local
jeepers
> > > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend
to
> > > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me
off.
> > > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the
brakes,
> > > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it
back
> > > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > > done.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
Disk brake calipers use much more fluid to stop a vehicle than does a
cylandar <sp> a new MC schould be part of EVERY disk brake upgrade.
Jeremy
"Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
news:l%%Jb.4423$6v2.1821@newssvr22.news.prodigy.co m...
> Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
> then the proportioning valve, then MC.
>
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
> news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> > I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> > different proportioning valve. Anyone?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> > news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
> I've
> > > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
> older
> > > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too
small.
> > I'd
> > > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't
fix
> > it,
> > > upgrade the MC.
> > >
> > > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > > >
> > > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the
vehicle
> > > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite
dangerous
> > > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor,
the
> > > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get
into
> > > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very
serious
> > > > trouble.
> > > >
> > > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > > ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local
jeepers
> > > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend
to
> > > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me
off.
> > > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the
brakes,
> > > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it
back
> > > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > > done.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
cylandar <sp> a new MC schould be part of EVERY disk brake upgrade.
Jeremy
"Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
news:l%%Jb.4423$6v2.1821@newssvr22.news.prodigy.co m...
> Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
> then the proportioning valve, then MC.
>
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
> news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> > I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> > different proportioning valve. Anyone?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> > news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
> I've
> > > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
> older
> > > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too
small.
> > I'd
> > > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't
fix
> > it,
> > > upgrade the MC.
> > >
> > > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > > >
> > > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the
vehicle
> > > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite
dangerous
> > > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor,
the
> > > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get
into
> > > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very
serious
> > > > trouble.
> > > >
> > > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > > ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local
jeepers
> > > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend
to
> > > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me
off.
> > > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the
brakes,
> > > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it
back
> > > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > > done.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
Disk brake calipers use much more fluid to stop a vehicle than does a
cylandar <sp> a new MC schould be part of EVERY disk brake upgrade.
Jeremy
"Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
news:l%%Jb.4423$6v2.1821@newssvr22.news.prodigy.co m...
> Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
> then the proportioning valve, then MC.
>
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
> news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> > I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> > different proportioning valve. Anyone?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> > news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
> I've
> > > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
> older
> > > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too
small.
> > I'd
> > > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't
fix
> > it,
> > > upgrade the MC.
> > >
> > > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > > >
> > > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the
vehicle
> > > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite
dangerous
> > > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor,
the
> > > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get
into
> > > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very
serious
> > > > trouble.
> > > >
> > > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > > ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local
jeepers
> > > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend
to
> > > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me
off.
> > > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the
brakes,
> > > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it
back
> > > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > > done.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
cylandar <sp> a new MC schould be part of EVERY disk brake upgrade.
Jeremy
"Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
news:l%%Jb.4423$6v2.1821@newssvr22.news.prodigy.co m...
> Didn't think about that one, but seems logical. I'd start with bleeding,
> then the proportioning valve, then MC.
>
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NOSPAMgbronline.com> wrote in message
> news:_eOdnfnAiOYc_2WiRVn-sw@gbronline.com...
> > I may be wrong, but I thought the rear disk brake conversion required a
> > different proportioning valve. Anyone?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > "Ichabod Shagnasti" <murfysflaw@nospamhere.com> wrote in message
> > news:7SXJb.597$PL5.277423270@newssvr11.news.prodig y.com...
> > > I'd tend to think he's right or there's still some air in the lines.
> I've
> > > had several MCs go out immediately after brake jobs, particularly on
> older
> > > cars, so it could be a case of that instead of it just being too
small.
> > I'd
> > > try having the lines bled again just to be sure, and if that doesn't
fix
> > it,
> > > upgrade the MC.
> > >
> > > "sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:88f4ec61.0401040704.28a99f35@posting.google.c om...
> > > > I recently hired a guy to convert the rear brakes on my 82 CJ from
> > > > drum to disc. (There was nothing wrong with the drums, I just had
> > > > some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket.)
> > > >
> > > > However, after the job was complete, the disc brakes stop the
vehicle
> > > > MUCH more poorly than the old drums. In fact it's now quite
dangerous
> > > > to drive. There is now absolutely no resistance in the first 2/3 of
> > > > the brake pedal. There is finally some resistance and grab in the
> > > > last 1/3 of the pedal, but even mashed all the way to the floor,
the
> > > > brake pedal only gives me a moderately effective stop. If I get
into
> > > > a freeway situation requiring quick braking, I will be in very
serious
> > > > trouble.
> > > >
> > > > I do seem to be able to get more resistance by quickly pumping the
> > > > brake pedal a couple of times; on the 2nd or 3rd pump the pedal gets
> > > > noticeably harder, but it still isn't super great for stopping.
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work said that he suspects the problem is the
> > > > master cylinder. He claims that the stock master cylinder on CJs is
> > > > probably just not high enough capacity to handle the additional
> > > > demands of the rear disc brakes, and that I could fix the problem by
> > > > upgrading to a higher capacity master cylinder. I don't know nearly
> > > > enough about mechanics to know if this is good advice or not
> > > > (otherwise I would have done the job myself...) so can anyone here
> > > > tell me if this is a reasonable answer? If so, any suggestions on
> > > > what master cylinder to use as a replacement? If not, any other
> > > > ideas?
> > > >
> > > > The guy who did the work came highly recommended by many local
jeepers
> > > > and has been popular with local jeep clubs for 20+ years, so I tend
to
> > > > think it's not just a case of him doing shoddy work or rippig me
off.
> > > > ( He assured me that he topped off the brake fluids, bled the
brakes,
> > > > and did everything else properly.) Unfortunately I can't take it
back
> > > > to him since I moved 1100 miles away immediately after this work was
> > > > done.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
I did the same swap this fall, and had the same problem. I had the
hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
lines. The trick:
- pull the rear calipers
- put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
- rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
- hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
just push the air back to the front.
- bleed away.
I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
a dime (well, for a jeep).
Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
Good luck!
Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
lines. The trick:
- pull the rear calipers
- put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
- rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
- hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
just push the air back to the front.
- bleed away.
I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
a dime (well, for a jeep).
Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
Good luck!
Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
I did the same swap this fall, and had the same problem. I had the
hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
lines. The trick:
- pull the rear calipers
- put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
- rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
- hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
just push the air back to the front.
- bleed away.
I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
a dime (well, for a jeep).
Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
Good luck!
Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
lines. The trick:
- pull the rear calipers
- put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
- rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
- hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
just push the air back to the front.
- bleed away.
I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
a dime (well, for a jeep).
Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
Good luck!
Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
I did the same swap this fall, and had the same problem. I had the
hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
lines. The trick:
- pull the rear calipers
- put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
- rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
- hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
just push the air back to the front.
- bleed away.
I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
a dime (well, for a jeep).
Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
Good luck!
Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
lines. The trick:
- pull the rear calipers
- put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
- rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
- hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
just push the air back to the front.
- bleed away.
I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
a dime (well, for a jeep).
Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
Good luck!
Ryan
ryansweany@earthlink.net
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
I will second what Ryan is saying. Especially getting the air out of
the valve.
If the calipers need moving to get the bleeder up top, then they are on
right left backward and need to be changed over.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Ryan wrote:
>
> I did the same swap this fall, and had the same problem. I had the
> hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
> fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
> lines. The trick:
>
> - pull the rear calipers
> - put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
> a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
> - rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
> - hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
> Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
> just push the air back to the front.
> - bleed away.
>
> I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
> upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
> 4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
>
> My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
> a dime (well, for a jeep).
>
> Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
> well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
> grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
>
> Good luck!
> Ryan
> ryansweany@earthlink.net
the valve.
If the calipers need moving to get the bleeder up top, then they are on
right left backward and need to be changed over.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Ryan wrote:
>
> I did the same swap this fall, and had the same problem. I had the
> hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
> fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
> lines. The trick:
>
> - pull the rear calipers
> - put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
> a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
> - rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
> - hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
> Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
> just push the air back to the front.
> - bleed away.
>
> I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
> upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
> 4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
>
> My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
> a dime (well, for a jeep).
>
> Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
> well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
> grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
>
> Good luck!
> Ryan
> ryansweany@earthlink.net
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: serious brake problems - please help!
I will second what Ryan is saying. Especially getting the air out of
the valve.
If the calipers need moving to get the bleeder up top, then they are on
right left backward and need to be changed over.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Ryan wrote:
>
> I did the same swap this fall, and had the same problem. I had the
> hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
> fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
> lines. The trick:
>
> - pull the rear calipers
> - put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
> a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
> - rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
> - hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
> Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
> just push the air back to the front.
> - bleed away.
>
> I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
> upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
> 4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
>
> My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
> a dime (well, for a jeep).
>
> Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
> well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
> grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
>
> Good luck!
> Ryan
> ryansweany@earthlink.net
the valve.
If the calipers need moving to get the bleeder up top, then they are on
right left backward and need to be changed over.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Ryan wrote:
>
> I did the same swap this fall, and had the same problem. I had the
> hardest time getting all of the air out of the lines. As a matter of
> fact, the brakes were "professionally" bled, and STILL had air in the
> lines. The trick:
>
> - pull the rear calipers
> - put a block of wood (or something similar) between the pads. I used
> a socket that was the same width as the rotors.
> - rotate the caliper until the bleeder is at the top
> - hold down the bypass button on the proportioning valve (I think
> Jeep has a little clip for this at the parts counter). Otherwise, you
> just push the air back to the front.
> - bleed away.
>
> I still have the stock proportioning valve, and it works fine. I did
> upgrade to a larger master cylinder (for a '79 Firebird with manual
> 4-wheel disk), but only because the old one was leaking anyway.
>
> My suggestion: Bleed 'em again. When the air is gone, it will stop on
> a dime (well, for a jeep).
>
> Check out http://tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm for some good info as
> well. For a visual of why the pedal is falling 1/2 way before it
> grabs, see: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm
>
> Good luck!
> Ryan
> ryansweany@earthlink.net