Sealing up your tub
11-29-2003, 01:29 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> thing as silicone?
RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
without heat.
It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
has stayed in place. YMMV.
> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> thing as silicone?
RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
without heat.
It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
has stayed in place. YMMV.
11-29-2003, 01:29 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> thing as silicone?
RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
without heat.
It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
has stayed in place. YMMV.
> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> thing as silicone?
RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
without heat.
It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
has stayed in place. YMMV.
11-29-2003, 01:29 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> thing as silicone?
RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
without heat.
It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
has stayed in place. YMMV.
> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> thing as silicone?
RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
without heat.
It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
has stayed in place. YMMV.
11-29-2003, 01:45 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
Approximately 11/29/03 10:29, Lee Ayrton uttered for posterity:
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
>> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
>> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
>> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
>> thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
It sets up without requiring heat. Most use moisture from the
air and surroundings to drive the reaction, which generates a
small amount of heat...not enough to be much of a worry.
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
There appear to be two main formulations of RTV silicone. The one
that smells like stale vinegar has acetic acid in it, which stinks
to high heaven and is mildly corrosive but somewhat self buffering.
The other is ammonia based and may give off ammonia during cure.
The label on the tubes will note which type. There may be others,
these are the only two I just happen to have run across.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
Whatever works. The caulk type silicones come in enough colors that
you can do an extremely attractive job with the minimal trick of
using a wet finger to smooth them into place, just like doing bathroom
refurb. Not a particularly good idea to stick your finger in your
mouth to wet it, I use that weak soap solution like is used for
decals and window tint.
--
Still a Raiders fan, but no longer sure why.
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
>> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
>> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
>> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
>> thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
It sets up without requiring heat. Most use moisture from the
air and surroundings to drive the reaction, which generates a
small amount of heat...not enough to be much of a worry.
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
There appear to be two main formulations of RTV silicone. The one
that smells like stale vinegar has acetic acid in it, which stinks
to high heaven and is mildly corrosive but somewhat self buffering.
The other is ammonia based and may give off ammonia during cure.
The label on the tubes will note which type. There may be others,
these are the only two I just happen to have run across.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
Whatever works. The caulk type silicones come in enough colors that
you can do an extremely attractive job with the minimal trick of
using a wet finger to smooth them into place, just like doing bathroom
refurb. Not a particularly good idea to stick your finger in your
mouth to wet it, I use that weak soap solution like is used for
decals and window tint.
--
Still a Raiders fan, but no longer sure why.
11-29-2003, 01:45 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
Approximately 11/29/03 10:29, Lee Ayrton uttered for posterity:
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
>> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
>> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
>> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
>> thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
It sets up without requiring heat. Most use moisture from the
air and surroundings to drive the reaction, which generates a
small amount of heat...not enough to be much of a worry.
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
There appear to be two main formulations of RTV silicone. The one
that smells like stale vinegar has acetic acid in it, which stinks
to high heaven and is mildly corrosive but somewhat self buffering.
The other is ammonia based and may give off ammonia during cure.
The label on the tubes will note which type. There may be others,
these are the only two I just happen to have run across.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
Whatever works. The caulk type silicones come in enough colors that
you can do an extremely attractive job with the minimal trick of
using a wet finger to smooth them into place, just like doing bathroom
refurb. Not a particularly good idea to stick your finger in your
mouth to wet it, I use that weak soap solution like is used for
decals and window tint.
--
Still a Raiders fan, but no longer sure why.
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
>> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
>> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
>> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
>> thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
It sets up without requiring heat. Most use moisture from the
air and surroundings to drive the reaction, which generates a
small amount of heat...not enough to be much of a worry.
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
There appear to be two main formulations of RTV silicone. The one
that smells like stale vinegar has acetic acid in it, which stinks
to high heaven and is mildly corrosive but somewhat self buffering.
The other is ammonia based and may give off ammonia during cure.
The label on the tubes will note which type. There may be others,
these are the only two I just happen to have run across.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
Whatever works. The caulk type silicones come in enough colors that
you can do an extremely attractive job with the minimal trick of
using a wet finger to smooth them into place, just like doing bathroom
refurb. Not a particularly good idea to stick your finger in your
mouth to wet it, I use that weak soap solution like is used for
decals and window tint.
--
Still a Raiders fan, but no longer sure why.
11-29-2003, 01:45 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
Approximately 11/29/03 10:29, Lee Ayrton uttered for posterity:
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
>> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
>> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
>> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
>> thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
It sets up without requiring heat. Most use moisture from the
air and surroundings to drive the reaction, which generates a
small amount of heat...not enough to be much of a worry.
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
There appear to be two main formulations of RTV silicone. The one
that smells like stale vinegar has acetic acid in it, which stinks
to high heaven and is mildly corrosive but somewhat self buffering.
The other is ammonia based and may give off ammonia during cure.
The label on the tubes will note which type. There may be others,
these are the only two I just happen to have run across.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
Whatever works. The caulk type silicones come in enough colors that
you can do an extremely attractive job with the minimal trick of
using a wet finger to smooth them into place, just like doing bathroom
refurb. Not a particularly good idea to stick your finger in your
mouth to wet it, I use that weak soap solution like is used for
decals and window tint.
--
Still a Raiders fan, but no longer sure why.
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
>> My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
>> separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
>> up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
>> thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
It sets up without requiring heat. Most use moisture from the
air and surroundings to drive the reaction, which generates a
small amount of heat...not enough to be much of a worry.
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
There appear to be two main formulations of RTV silicone. The one
that smells like stale vinegar has acetic acid in it, which stinks
to high heaven and is mildly corrosive but somewhat self buffering.
The other is ammonia based and may give off ammonia during cure.
The label on the tubes will note which type. There may be others,
these are the only two I just happen to have run across.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
Whatever works. The caulk type silicones come in enough colors that
you can do an extremely attractive job with the minimal trick of
using a wet finger to smooth them into place, just like doing bathroom
refurb. Not a particularly good idea to stick your finger in your
mouth to wet it, I use that weak soap solution like is used for
decals and window tint.
--
Still a Raiders fan, but no longer sure why.
11-29-2003, 02:51 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
On Sat, 29 Nov 2003 18:29:12 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@ntplx.net> wrote:
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
> > My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> > separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> > up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> > thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
>
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
When you say silicone outgasses you're understating things - it
outgasses and outgasses and outgasses some more. Worse than a Scout
troop after pinto beans. The gas is acidic and it definitely will
attack metal, especially if moisture is present.
I had the pleasure of building some equipment for space deployment
where we had to seal the cases to insure that no foreign material
entered or left. One of my techs was just SURE that silicone (RTV)
would work until we put it under a 1 TOR vacuum and found that it was
still outgassing 30 days later. Even under vacuum it ate solder and
copper (even gold plated) off the circuit board. If you take a sniff
of most of the silicone and RTV products after you apply them, that
vinegar smell is just that. Add water and get acetic acid.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
> > My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> > separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> > up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> > thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
>
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
When you say silicone outgasses you're understating things - it
outgasses and outgasses and outgasses some more. Worse than a Scout
troop after pinto beans. The gas is acidic and it definitely will
attack metal, especially if moisture is present.
I had the pleasure of building some equipment for space deployment
where we had to seal the cases to insure that no foreign material
entered or left. One of my techs was just SURE that silicone (RTV)
would work until we put it under a 1 TOR vacuum and found that it was
still outgassing 30 days later. Even under vacuum it ate solder and
copper (even gold plated) off the circuit board. If you take a sniff
of most of the silicone and RTV products after you apply them, that
vinegar smell is just that. Add water and get acetic acid.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
11-29-2003, 02:51 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
On Sat, 29 Nov 2003 18:29:12 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@ntplx.net> wrote:
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
> > My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> > separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> > up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> > thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
>
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
When you say silicone outgasses you're understating things - it
outgasses and outgasses and outgasses some more. Worse than a Scout
troop after pinto beans. The gas is acidic and it definitely will
attack metal, especially if moisture is present.
I had the pleasure of building some equipment for space deployment
where we had to seal the cases to insure that no foreign material
entered or left. One of my techs was just SURE that silicone (RTV)
would work until we put it under a 1 TOR vacuum and found that it was
still outgassing 30 days later. Even under vacuum it ate solder and
copper (even gold plated) off the circuit board. If you take a sniff
of most of the silicone and RTV products after you apply them, that
vinegar smell is just that. Add water and get acetic acid.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
> > My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> > separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> > up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> > thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
>
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
When you say silicone outgasses you're understating things - it
outgasses and outgasses and outgasses some more. Worse than a Scout
troop after pinto beans. The gas is acidic and it definitely will
attack metal, especially if moisture is present.
I had the pleasure of building some equipment for space deployment
where we had to seal the cases to insure that no foreign material
entered or left. One of my techs was just SURE that silicone (RTV)
would work until we put it under a 1 TOR vacuum and found that it was
still outgassing 30 days later. Even under vacuum it ate solder and
copper (even gold plated) off the circuit board. If you take a sniff
of most of the silicone and RTV products after you apply them, that
vinegar smell is just that. Add water and get acetic acid.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
11-29-2003, 02:51 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
On Sat, 29 Nov 2003 18:29:12 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@ntplx.net> wrote:
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
> > My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> > separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> > up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> > thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
>
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
When you say silicone outgasses you're understating things - it
outgasses and outgasses and outgasses some more. Worse than a Scout
troop after pinto beans. The gas is acidic and it definitely will
attack metal, especially if moisture is present.
I had the pleasure of building some equipment for space deployment
where we had to seal the cases to insure that no foreign material
entered or left. One of my techs was just SURE that silicone (RTV)
would work until we put it under a 1 TOR vacuum and found that it was
still outgassing 30 days later. Even under vacuum it ate solder and
copper (even gold plated) off the circuit board. If you take a sniff
of most of the silicone and RTV products after you apply them, that
vinegar smell is just that. Add water and get acetic acid.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
> On or about Fri, 28 Nov 2003, ABanks5@columbus.rr.com of ABanks5@columbus.r...:
>
> > My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit and
> > separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that stuff
> > up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV the same
> > thing as silicone?
>
> RTV stands for "room temperature vulcanizing". It doesn't need to be
> silicone, it just means that it is a rubber-like substance that sets up
> without heat.
>
> It is rumored that RTV silicone off-gasses during curing, and that the gas
> will eat automotive finishes and bare metal. I couldn't easily find
> anything on a Google search to support this, but there's a lot of
> anecdotal evidence in the form of big rusty holes in Jeeps with a bead of
> RTV silicone stretched across the opening. Chicken or egg, you decide.
>
> What I've been using to seal various openings and seams on my re-pop `79
> tub is a coil of butyl rubber I bought from a glass shop for $5. It is
> sort of like Silly Putty <TM> and it stays sticky and flexable and so far
> has stayed in place. YMMV.
When you say silicone outgasses you're understating things - it
outgasses and outgasses and outgasses some more. Worse than a Scout
troop after pinto beans. The gas is acidic and it definitely will
attack metal, especially if moisture is present.
I had the pleasure of building some equipment for space deployment
where we had to seal the cases to insure that no foreign material
entered or left. One of my techs was just SURE that silicone (RTV)
would work until we put it under a 1 TOR vacuum and found that it was
still outgassing 30 days later. Even under vacuum it ate solder and
copper (even gold plated) off the circuit board. If you take a sniff
of most of the silicone and RTV products after you apply them, that
vinegar smell is just that. Add water and get acetic acid.
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
11-29-2003, 08:49 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sealing up your tub
In my experience you will be much better off with a specialized body work
supply store than with a generic auto supply store. These tend to have a
greater variety of materials and also people who know what they are really
intended for. Otherwise try talking to someone who works at a body shop or
restoration business, and ask where they get their stuff.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FC80D58.873CAB9@sympatico.ca...
> Vulcanizing is a hardening process for the silicone rubber.
>
> The old style stuff had to be heated big time to vulcanize. Like the
> old tire patches, they came with a metal cup filled with a flammable
> charcoal type stuff and you clamped it onto the tire with a big C-clamp,
> then lit it on fire. Come back 10 minutes later and the patch was done.
>
> Most auto stores that sell bodywork materials will have seam sealer.
>
> Mike
>
> ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > What does room temp have to do with the stuff? Works well under great
heat.
> >
> > Also, where can you pick up that seam sealer...any hardware store??
> > Thanks!
> > Allen
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3FC7CBE4.7DB225CC@sympatico.ca...
> > > Fiberglass or 'seam sealer' putty like they use at the factory.
> > >
> > > RTV is 'room temperature vulcanization' silicone.
> > >
> > > It is not good for sealing body parts. It will hold humidity under it
> > > and cause the metal to rot fast.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit
and
> > > > separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that
> > stuff
> > > > up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV
the
> > same
> > > > thing as silicone?
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > Allen
supply store than with a generic auto supply store. These tend to have a
greater variety of materials and also people who know what they are really
intended for. Otherwise try talking to someone who works at a body shop or
restoration business, and ask where they get their stuff.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FC80D58.873CAB9@sympatico.ca...
> Vulcanizing is a hardening process for the silicone rubber.
>
> The old style stuff had to be heated big time to vulcanize. Like the
> old tire patches, they came with a metal cup filled with a flammable
> charcoal type stuff and you clamped it onto the tire with a big C-clamp,
> then lit it on fire. Come back 10 minutes later and the patch was done.
>
> Most auto stores that sell bodywork materials will have seam sealer.
>
> Mike
>
> ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > What does room temp have to do with the stuff? Works well under great
heat.
> >
> > Also, where can you pick up that seam sealer...any hardware store??
> > Thanks!
> > Allen
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3FC7CBE4.7DB225CC@sympatico.ca...
> > > Fiberglass or 'seam sealer' putty like they use at the factory.
> > >
> > > RTV is 'room temperature vulcanization' silicone.
> > >
> > > It is not good for sealing body parts. It will hold humidity under it
> > > and cause the metal to rot fast.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > My 83 has a YJ tub that was pulled from a salvage yard. It got hit
and
> > > > separated some of the seams. What is the best material to seal that
> > stuff
> > > > up...the damn thing leaks like crazy from road splash. And is RTV
the
> > same
> > > > thing as silicone?
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > Allen
