Rust never sleeps.
06-03-2006, 07:03 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust never sleeps.
POR-15 that is the ticket
Coasty
"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:9umdncISmrPIeIujnZ2dnUVZ_q-dnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
>> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my
>> 1989
>> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(
>
> Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust accelerator.
> That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general... unless you cut it
> out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting moisture again. I've
> seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of zinc primer start
> showing rust under the paint in weeks
>
>> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?
>
> my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
> bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross member.
> I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the shackle
> hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom as
> drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat bar
> pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't hold
> water or debre.
>
> It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
> because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
> flex at my patch job.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
Coasty
"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:9umdncISmrPIeIujnZ2dnUVZ_q-dnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
>> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my
>> 1989
>> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(
>
> Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust accelerator.
> That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general... unless you cut it
> out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting moisture again. I've
> seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of zinc primer start
> showing rust under the paint in weeks
>
>> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?
>
> my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
> bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross member.
> I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the shackle
> hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom as
> drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat bar
> pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't hold
> water or debre.
>
> It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
> because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
> flex at my patch job.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
06-03-2006, 07:03 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust never sleeps.
POR-15 that is the ticket
Coasty
"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:9umdncISmrPIeIujnZ2dnUVZ_q-dnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
>> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my
>> 1989
>> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(
>
> Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust accelerator.
> That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general... unless you cut it
> out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting moisture again. I've
> seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of zinc primer start
> showing rust under the paint in weeks
>
>> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?
>
> my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
> bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross member.
> I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the shackle
> hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom as
> drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat bar
> pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't hold
> water or debre.
>
> It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
> because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
> flex at my patch job.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
Coasty
"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:9umdncISmrPIeIujnZ2dnUVZ_q-dnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
>> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my
>> 1989
>> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(
>
> Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust accelerator.
> That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general... unless you cut it
> out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting moisture again. I've
> seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of zinc primer start
> showing rust under the paint in weeks
>
>> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?
>
> my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
> bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross member.
> I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the shackle
> hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom as
> drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat bar
> pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't hold
> water or debre.
>
> It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
> because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
> flex at my patch job.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
06-03-2006, 07:03 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust never sleeps.
POR-15 that is the ticket
Coasty
"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:9umdncISmrPIeIujnZ2dnUVZ_q-dnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
>> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my
>> 1989
>> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(
>
> Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust accelerator.
> That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general... unless you cut it
> out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting moisture again. I've
> seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of zinc primer start
> showing rust under the paint in weeks
>
>> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?
>
> my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
> bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross member.
> I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the shackle
> hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom as
> drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat bar
> pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't hold
> water or debre.
>
> It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
> because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
> flex at my patch job.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
Coasty
"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:9umdncISmrPIeIujnZ2dnUVZ_q-dnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
>> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my
>> 1989
>> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(
>
> Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust accelerator.
> That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general... unless you cut it
> out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting moisture again. I've
> seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of zinc primer start
> showing rust under the paint in weeks
>
>> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?
>
> my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
> bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross member.
> I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the shackle
> hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom as
> drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat bar
> pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't hold
> water or debre.
>
> It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
> because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
> flex at my patch job.
>
> --
> Simon
> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
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