Rust never sleeps.
 

I am in the middle of stripping all the paint off a Tomken
(http://tomken.com/) Protec bumper, that is only seven years old. It is
supposed to be powder coated, hmph! I got a lot of scale off of it, and
ruined two perfectly good bumper stickers, that had plenty of life left too.
I live in sunny Colorado, which the vehicle hasn't left since I got the
bumper. The bumper design is hollow, welded shut, but I am thinking that
the "integrated solid steel tow pegs for easy strap attachment" are letting
water into the interior too. Thankfully, the damage appears to be cosmetic
so far.

I would recommend this product, except for the loss of paint.

I'm "Cc:"ing Tomken on this one. Wonder what they'll say?

Earle Horton




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

Earle Horton wrote:
> I am in the middle of stripping all the paint off a Tomken
> (http://tomken.com/) Protec bumper, that is only seven years old. It is
> supposed to be powder coated, hmph! I got a lot of scale off of it, and
> ruined two perfectly good bumper stickers, that had plenty of life left too.
> I live in sunny Colorado, which the vehicle hasn't left since I got the
> bumper. The bumper design is hollow, welded shut, but I am thinking that

I wouldn't say that powdercoating is inherently better or worse than
paint when it comes to rust prevention... the fact is if there is a
greater than water molecule sized hole in the coating or one is created
via stone chip etc. then rust is going to happen.

Tube bumpers are just rust traps waiting to happen IMO; that must be why
Jeepers seem to love them so much :)

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

Earle Horton wrote:
> I am in the middle of stripping all the paint off a Tomken
> (http://tomken.com/) Protec bumper, that is only seven years old. It is
> supposed to be powder coated, hmph! I got a lot of scale off of it, and
> ruined two perfectly good bumper stickers, that had plenty of life left too.
> I live in sunny Colorado, which the vehicle hasn't left since I got the
> bumper. The bumper design is hollow, welded shut, but I am thinking that

I wouldn't say that powdercoating is inherently better or worse than
paint when it comes to rust prevention... the fact is if there is a
greater than water molecule sized hole in the coating or one is created
via stone chip etc. then rust is going to happen.

Tube bumpers are just rust traps waiting to happen IMO; that must be why
Jeepers seem to love them so much :)

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

Earle Horton wrote:
> I am in the middle of stripping all the paint off a Tomken
> (http://tomken.com/) Protec bumper, that is only seven years old. It is
> supposed to be powder coated, hmph! I got a lot of scale off of it, and
> ruined two perfectly good bumper stickers, that had plenty of life left too.
> I live in sunny Colorado, which the vehicle hasn't left since I got the
> bumper. The bumper design is hollow, welded shut, but I am thinking that

I wouldn't say that powdercoating is inherently better or worse than
paint when it comes to rust prevention... the fact is if there is a
greater than water molecule sized hole in the coating or one is created
via stone chip etc. then rust is going to happen.

Tube bumpers are just rust traps waiting to happen IMO; that must be why
Jeepers seem to love them so much :)

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:RZCdneEAd55sDOLZnZ2dnUVZ_tSdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I am in the middle of stripping all the paint off a Tomken
> > (http://tomken.com/) Protec bumper, that is only seven years old. It is
> > supposed to be powder coated, hmph! I got a lot of scale off of it, and
> > ruined two perfectly good bumper stickers, that had plenty of life left
> > too. I live in sunny Colorado, which the vehicle hasn't left since I got
> > the bumper. The bumper design is hollow, welded shut, but I am
> > thinking that
>
> I wouldn't say that powdercoating is inherently better or worse than
> paint when it comes to rust prevention... the fact is if there is a
> greater than water molecule sized hole in the coating or one is created
> via stone chip etc. then rust is going to happen.
>
> Tube bumpers are just rust traps waiting to happen IMO; that must be why
> Jeepers seem to love them so much :)
>
I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my 1989
Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(

I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?

Earle

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:RZCdneEAd55sDOLZnZ2dnUVZ_tSdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I am in the middle of stripping all the paint off a Tomken
> > (http://tomken.com/) Protec bumper, that is only seven years old. It is
> > supposed to be powder coated, hmph! I got a lot of scale off of it, and
> > ruined two perfectly good bumper stickers, that had plenty of life left
> > too. I live in sunny Colorado, which the vehicle hasn't left since I got
> > the bumper. The bumper design is hollow, welded shut, but I am
> > thinking that
>
> I wouldn't say that powdercoating is inherently better or worse than
> paint when it comes to rust prevention... the fact is if there is a
> greater than water molecule sized hole in the coating or one is created
> via stone chip etc. then rust is going to happen.
>
> Tube bumpers are just rust traps waiting to happen IMO; that must be why
> Jeepers seem to love them so much :)
>
I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my 1989
Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(

I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?

Earle

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:RZCdneEAd55sDOLZnZ2dnUVZ_tSdnZ2d@rcn.net...
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I am in the middle of stripping all the paint off a Tomken
> > (http://tomken.com/) Protec bumper, that is only seven years old. It is
> > supposed to be powder coated, hmph! I got a lot of scale off of it, and
> > ruined two perfectly good bumper stickers, that had plenty of life left
> > too. I live in sunny Colorado, which the vehicle hasn't left since I got
> > the bumper. The bumper design is hollow, welded shut, but I am
> > thinking that
>
> I wouldn't say that powdercoating is inherently better or worse than
> paint when it comes to rust prevention... the fact is if there is a
> greater than water molecule sized hole in the coating or one is created
> via stone chip etc. then rust is going to happen.
>
> Tube bumpers are just rust traps waiting to happen IMO; that must be why
> Jeepers seem to love them so much :)
>
I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my 1989
Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(

I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?

Earle

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

Earle Horton wrote:
> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my 1989
> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(

Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust
accelerator. That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general...
unless you cut it out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting
moisture again. I've seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of
zinc primer start showing rust under the paint in weeks

> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?

my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross
member. I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the
shackle hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom
as drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat
bar pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't
hold water or debre.

It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
flex at my patch job.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

Earle Horton wrote:
> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my 1989
> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(

Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust
accelerator. That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general...
unless you cut it out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting
moisture again. I've seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of
zinc primer start showing rust under the paint in weeks

> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?

my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross
member. I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the
shackle hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom
as drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat
bar pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't
hold water or debre.

It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
flex at my patch job.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

Re: Rust never sleeps.
 

Earle Horton wrote:
> I am talking about large pieces of scale, about as big as a half dollar,
> that have lifted off entire sections of powder coating. The roof of my 1989
> Suburban doesn't look so bad. :o(

Once it's started the coating (or paint) becomes a nice rust
accelerator. That's the problem with doing rust repairs in general...
unless you cut it out, it's nearly impossible to keep it from getting
moisture again. I've seen field repairs gobbed up with a dozen coats of
zinc primer start showing rust under the paint in weeks

> I wonder if I should put drains in the bottom of this thing?

my YJ's rear frame rails have drains... typical 6" long strips where the
bottom of the rail rusted out below the shackles to the rear cross
member. I welded plate patches into the sides as a repair to keep the
shackle hanger from fatiquing loose, I left the rust holes in the bottom
as drainage. and supported the repaired sides by welding in some flat
bar pieces inside from wall to wall angled in such a way that they can't
hold water or debre.

It's a kind of "if you can't beat it" solution, it can't rust out again
because it's not there anymore :) So far as I can tell there's no extra
flex at my patch job.

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein