On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 17:56:10 -0000, txjeep7@gmail.com wrote:

>My jeep is about to turn 60,000 miles, and there is a bunch of
>routine service stuff recommended in the manual, such as changing
>transmission fluid and differential fluid. That much is fine and
>dandy, and I'm going to hire the local jiffy lube to just change all
>the fluids and things that need changing.
>
>HOWEVER, IN ADDITION to the stuff recommended in the manual, the
>fine folks at jiffy lube are also telling me I need (1) a change of
>the power steering fluid, (2) a change of the brake fluid, and (3)
>a flush/replace of the radiator fluid. They made an especially big
>show of displaying a sample of some of the brake fluid to me, telling
>me how dirty it is and how bad it needs changed.

If your manual says you need to do it, then you need do it. Otherwise,
it's your call.

Just make sure they put in the right goo. Even your manual may be
wrong so check the TSBs for your particular year & model.

If you live where it's dry, you might not need new brake fluid. If
you live in Seattle, get new brake fluid once a year.

> the lube folks just want to run up my
>bill.

Pretty much...

>Also, as long as I'm asking.... at 30,000 mi I put in synthetic
>transmission and diff fluid, instead of the regular stuff. Does this
>extend the interval for which it needs changed, or should I still
>follow manufacturer recommendations and change at 60,000.
If you want your warrenty to stay valid, make the change...

/herb

 

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 17:56:10 -0000, txjeep7@gmail.com wrote:

>My jeep is about to turn 60,000 miles, and there is a bunch of
>routine service stuff recommended in the manual, such as changing
>transmission fluid and differential fluid. That much is fine and
>dandy, and I'm going to hire the local jiffy lube to just change all
>the fluids and things that need changing.
>
>HOWEVER, IN ADDITION to the stuff recommended in the manual, the
>fine folks at jiffy lube are also telling me I need (1) a change of
>the power steering fluid, (2) a change of the brake fluid, and (3)
>a flush/replace of the radiator fluid. They made an especially big
>show of displaying a sample of some of the brake fluid to me, telling
>me how dirty it is and how bad it needs changed.

If your manual says you need to do it, then you need do it. Otherwise,
it's your call.

Just make sure they put in the right goo. Even your manual may be
wrong so check the TSBs for your particular year & model.

If you live where it's dry, you might not need new brake fluid. If
you live in Seattle, get new brake fluid once a year.

> the lube folks just want to run up my
>bill.

Pretty much...

>Also, as long as I'm asking.... at 30,000 mi I put in synthetic
>transmission and diff fluid, instead of the regular stuff. Does this
>extend the interval for which it needs changed, or should I still
>follow manufacturer recommendations and change at 60,000.
If you want your warrenty to stay valid, make the change...

/herb

 

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 17:56:10 -0000, txjeep7@gmail.com wrote:

>My jeep is about to turn 60,000 miles, and there is a bunch of
>routine service stuff recommended in the manual, such as changing
>transmission fluid and differential fluid. That much is fine and
>dandy, and I'm going to hire the local jiffy lube to just change all
>the fluids and things that need changing.
>
>HOWEVER, IN ADDITION to the stuff recommended in the manual, the
>fine folks at jiffy lube are also telling me I need (1) a change of
>the power steering fluid, (2) a change of the brake fluid, and (3)
>a flush/replace of the radiator fluid. They made an especially big
>show of displaying a sample of some of the brake fluid to me, telling
>me how dirty it is and how bad it needs changed.

If your manual says you need to do it, then you need do it. Otherwise,
it's your call.

Just make sure they put in the right goo. Even your manual may be
wrong so check the TSBs for your particular year & model.

If you live where it's dry, you might not need new brake fluid. If
you live in Seattle, get new brake fluid once a year.

> the lube folks just want to run up my
>bill.

Pretty much...

>Also, as long as I'm asking.... at 30,000 mi I put in synthetic
>transmission and diff fluid, instead of the regular stuff. Does this
>extend the interval for which it needs changed, or should I still
>follow manufacturer recommendations and change at 60,000.
If you want your warrenty to stay valid, make the change...

/herb

 

txjeep7 wrote:
> My jeep is about to turn 60,000 miles, and there is a bunch of
> routine service stuff recommended in the manual, such as changing
> transmission fluid and differential fluid. That much is fine and
> dandy, and I'm going to hire the local jiffy lube to just change all
> the fluids and things that need changing.

Personal preference, I would never use Jiffyscrew er.. lube.. to do
anything on my vehicles. Seen far to many wrong fluid, too much/little,
and overtorqued bolts. A decent local shop is the way you should go.

> HOWEVER, IN ADDITION to the stuff recommended in the manual, the
> fine folks at jiffy lube are also telling me I need (1) a change of
> the power steering fluid, (2) a change of the brake fluid, and (3)
> a flush/replace of the radiator fluid. They made an especially big
> show of displaying a sample of some of the brake fluid to me, telling
> me how dirty it is and how bad it needs changed.

Another reason why I don't like that company. All fluids change
color with age and it is not a sign they are bad. The older the
engine the faster new fluid changes and the only way around that
is to fully clean the system. Engine off, and in a tank of solvent. :)

PS fluid you can do yourself.. just with a turkey baster.
Drain out all you can from the reservoir and refill with new
PS fluid. You could pump it through, but that takes more time
and has the potential of being real messy.

Brake fluid... heh.. you could get new fluid and a full system
bleed, but you don't need it. Same turkey baster approach will
work, just use a clean baster, not one with any other contaminants
in it. Then top off with the proper brake fluid for your vehicle.
I would have a good shop do the job, and I don't mean Midas as they also reak.

Radiator... well, A flush wouldn't be a bad idea, but you can
drain and refill the system yourself and all it costs is a few
bucks for new fluid. If you don't want to get at the radiator
drain you can use a siphon, it just takes a bit longer.

> Just wondering from some of the more knowledgable mechanics around
> here if this is really stuff that needs doing, or (as I suspect)
> stuff that can be left alone and the lube folks just want to run up my
> bill.

The lube folks are trying to give you a lube job, that's for sure. ;)

> Also, as long as I'm asking.... at 30,000 mi I put in synthetic
> transmission and diff fluid, instead of the regular stuff. Does this
> extend the interval for which it needs changed, or should I still
> follow manufacturer recommendations and change at 60,000.

Yes. And in some cases by quite a bit. A few transmissions with full
synth in them have no drain or dipstick. It's lifetime. (actually 100k)
That's the benefit of a synthetic, they last longer between changes.
Your choice though. I run synthetic as oil and still follow a 4000 mile
change cycle.

The recommended intervals are just guides. What makes the difference
is how you use the vehicle. lots of short trips = more frequent oil
changes and probably trans fluid. Towing a lot impacts trans, diff,
and PS fluids. Brake fluid is brake fluid. If your mostly highway
oil lasts longer because the water that gets trapped in there has
a chance to evaporate, as does the lighter weight byproducts that
squeeze by the pistons and valves.



--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

txjeep7 wrote:
> My jeep is about to turn 60,000 miles, and there is a bunch of
> routine service stuff recommended in the manual, such as changing
> transmission fluid and differential fluid. That much is fine and
> dandy, and I'm going to hire the local jiffy lube to just change all
> the fluids and things that need changing.

Personal preference, I would never use Jiffyscrew er.. lube.. to do
anything on my vehicles. Seen far to many wrong fluid, too much/little,
and overtorqued bolts. A decent local shop is the way you should go.

> HOWEVER, IN ADDITION to the stuff recommended in the manual, the
> fine folks at jiffy lube are also telling me I need (1) a change of
> the power steering fluid, (2) a change of the brake fluid, and (3)
> a flush/replace of the radiator fluid. They made an especially big
> show of displaying a sample of some of the brake fluid to me, telling
> me how dirty it is and how bad it needs changed.

Another reason why I don't like that company. All fluids change
color with age and it is not a sign they are bad. The older the
engine the faster new fluid changes and the only way around that
is to fully clean the system. Engine off, and in a tank of solvent. :)

PS fluid you can do yourself.. just with a turkey baster.
Drain out all you can from the reservoir and refill with new
PS fluid. You could pump it through, but that takes more time
and has the potential of being real messy.

Brake fluid... heh.. you could get new fluid and a full system
bleed, but you don't need it. Same turkey baster approach will
work, just use a clean baster, not one with any other contaminants
in it. Then top off with the proper brake fluid for your vehicle.
I would have a good shop do the job, and I don't mean Midas as they also reak.

Radiator... well, A flush wouldn't be a bad idea, but you can
drain and refill the system yourself and all it costs is a few
bucks for new fluid. If you don't want to get at the radiator
drain you can use a siphon, it just takes a bit longer.

> Just wondering from some of the more knowledgable mechanics around
> here if this is really stuff that needs doing, or (as I suspect)
> stuff that can be left alone and the lube folks just want to run up my
> bill.

The lube folks are trying to give you a lube job, that's for sure. ;)

> Also, as long as I'm asking.... at 30,000 mi I put in synthetic
> transmission and diff fluid, instead of the regular stuff. Does this
> extend the interval for which it needs changed, or should I still
> follow manufacturer recommendations and change at 60,000.

Yes. And in some cases by quite a bit. A few transmissions with full
synth in them have no drain or dipstick. It's lifetime. (actually 100k)
That's the benefit of a synthetic, they last longer between changes.
Your choice though. I run synthetic as oil and still follow a 4000 mile
change cycle.

The recommended intervals are just guides. What makes the difference
is how you use the vehicle. lots of short trips = more frequent oil
changes and probably trans fluid. Towing a lot impacts trans, diff,
and PS fluids. Brake fluid is brake fluid. If your mostly highway
oil lasts longer because the water that gets trapped in there has
a chance to evaporate, as does the lighter weight byproducts that
squeeze by the pistons and valves.



--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

txjeep7 wrote:
> My jeep is about to turn 60,000 miles, and there is a bunch of
> routine service stuff recommended in the manual, such as changing
> transmission fluid and differential fluid. That much is fine and
> dandy, and I'm going to hire the local jiffy lube to just change all
> the fluids and things that need changing.

Personal preference, I would never use Jiffyscrew er.. lube.. to do
anything on my vehicles. Seen far to many wrong fluid, too much/little,
and overtorqued bolts. A decent local shop is the way you should go.

> HOWEVER, IN ADDITION to the stuff recommended in the manual, the
> fine folks at jiffy lube are also telling me I need (1) a change of
> the power steering fluid, (2) a change of the brake fluid, and (3)
> a flush/replace of the radiator fluid. They made an especially big
> show of displaying a sample of some of the brake fluid to me, telling
> me how dirty it is and how bad it needs changed.

Another reason why I don't like that company. All fluids change
color with age and it is not a sign they are bad. The older the
engine the faster new fluid changes and the only way around that
is to fully clean the system. Engine off, and in a tank of solvent. :)

PS fluid you can do yourself.. just with a turkey baster.
Drain out all you can from the reservoir and refill with new
PS fluid. You could pump it through, but that takes more time
and has the potential of being real messy.

Brake fluid... heh.. you could get new fluid and a full system
bleed, but you don't need it. Same turkey baster approach will
work, just use a clean baster, not one with any other contaminants
in it. Then top off with the proper brake fluid for your vehicle.
I would have a good shop do the job, and I don't mean Midas as they also reak.

Radiator... well, A flush wouldn't be a bad idea, but you can
drain and refill the system yourself and all it costs is a few
bucks for new fluid. If you don't want to get at the radiator
drain you can use a siphon, it just takes a bit longer.

> Just wondering from some of the more knowledgable mechanics around
> here if this is really stuff that needs doing, or (as I suspect)
> stuff that can be left alone and the lube folks just want to run up my
> bill.

The lube folks are trying to give you a lube job, that's for sure. ;)

> Also, as long as I'm asking.... at 30,000 mi I put in synthetic
> transmission and diff fluid, instead of the regular stuff. Does this
> extend the interval for which it needs changed, or should I still
> follow manufacturer recommendations and change at 60,000.

Yes. And in some cases by quite a bit. A few transmissions with full
synth in them have no drain or dipstick. It's lifetime. (actually 100k)
That's the benefit of a synthetic, they last longer between changes.
Your choice though. I run synthetic as oil and still follow a 4000 mile
change cycle.

The recommended intervals are just guides. What makes the difference
is how you use the vehicle. lots of short trips = more frequent oil
changes and probably trans fluid. Towing a lot impacts trans, diff,
and PS fluids. Brake fluid is brake fluid. If your mostly highway
oil lasts longer because the water that gets trapped in there has
a chance to evaporate, as does the lighter weight byproducts that
squeeze by the pistons and valves.



--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

txjeep7 wrote:
> My jeep is about to turn 60,000 miles, and there is a bunch of
> routine service stuff recommended in the manual, such as changing
> transmission fluid and differential fluid. That much is fine and
> dandy, and I'm going to hire the local jiffy lube to just change all
> the fluids and things that need changing.

Personal preference, I would never use Jiffyscrew er.. lube.. to do
anything on my vehicles. Seen far to many wrong fluid, too much/little,
and overtorqued bolts. A decent local shop is the way you should go.

> HOWEVER, IN ADDITION to the stuff recommended in the manual, the
> fine folks at jiffy lube are also telling me I need (1) a change of
> the power steering fluid, (2) a change of the brake fluid, and (3)
> a flush/replace of the radiator fluid. They made an especially big
> show of displaying a sample of some of the brake fluid to me, telling
> me how dirty it is and how bad it needs changed.

Another reason why I don't like that company. All fluids change
color with age and it is not a sign they are bad. The older the
engine the faster new fluid changes and the only way around that
is to fully clean the system. Engine off, and in a tank of solvent. :)

PS fluid you can do yourself.. just with a turkey baster.
Drain out all you can from the reservoir and refill with new
PS fluid. You could pump it through, but that takes more time
and has the potential of being real messy.

Brake fluid... heh.. you could get new fluid and a full system
bleed, but you don't need it. Same turkey baster approach will
work, just use a clean baster, not one with any other contaminants
in it. Then top off with the proper brake fluid for your vehicle.
I would have a good shop do the job, and I don't mean Midas as they also reak.

Radiator... well, A flush wouldn't be a bad idea, but you can
drain and refill the system yourself and all it costs is a few
bucks for new fluid. If you don't want to get at the radiator
drain you can use a siphon, it just takes a bit longer.

> Just wondering from some of the more knowledgable mechanics around
> here if this is really stuff that needs doing, or (as I suspect)
> stuff that can be left alone and the lube folks just want to run up my
> bill.

The lube folks are trying to give you a lube job, that's for sure. ;)

> Also, as long as I'm asking.... at 30,000 mi I put in synthetic
> transmission and diff fluid, instead of the regular stuff. Does this
> extend the interval for which it needs changed, or should I still
> follow manufacturer recommendations and change at 60,000.

Yes. And in some cases by quite a bit. A few transmissions with full
synth in them have no drain or dipstick. It's lifetime. (actually 100k)
That's the benefit of a synthetic, they last longer between changes.
Your choice though. I run synthetic as oil and still follow a 4000 mile
change cycle.

The recommended intervals are just guides. What makes the difference
is how you use the vehicle. lots of short trips = more frequent oil
changes and probably trans fluid. Towing a lot impacts trans, diff,
and PS fluids. Brake fluid is brake fluid. If your mostly highway
oil lasts longer because the water that gets trapped in there has
a chance to evaporate, as does the lighter weight byproducts that
squeeze by the pistons and valves.



--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!