RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
08-16-2007, 01:02 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike
OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.
The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--
I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
THANKS AGAIN!
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike
OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.
The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--
I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
THANKS AGAIN!
08-16-2007, 01:50 PM
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>
No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!
The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.
The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.
I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.
As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.
To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>
No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!
The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.
The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.
I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.
As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.
To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
08-16-2007, 01:50 PM
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>
No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!
The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.
The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.
I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.
As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.
To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>
No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!
The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.
The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.
I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.
As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.
To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
08-16-2007, 01:50 PM
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>
No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!
The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.
The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.
I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.
As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.
To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>
No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!
The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.
The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.
I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.
As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.
To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
08-16-2007, 01:50 PM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>
No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!
The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.
The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.
I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.
As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.
To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>
No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!
The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.
The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.
I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.
As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.
To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
08-16-2007, 01:51 PM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.
Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.
Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?
08-16-2007, 01:51 PM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.
Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.
Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?
08-16-2007, 01:51 PM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.
Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.
Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?
08-16-2007, 01:51 PM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.
Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.
Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?
08-16-2007, 02:05 PM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
> following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
> NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
> that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
> be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
> look.
>
> Now I have two options....
> A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
> shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
> shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
> please?
>
Too many numbers....
LOL!
Coil spring spacers 'are' a suspension lift and add to the driveline
issues so nice try but...
See my other post about tires and your 'stock' Jeep.
Mike