Unlikely as oil return passageways are, comparatively speaking, great big
cavernous openings, unlikely to be become plugged by anything likely to find
its way into the engine oil. It has to be an incompatibility between the
valve cover and the gasket, or he could have damaged the gasket during
installation. I have never done one of these, and I am sure that there is
an FAQ on the subject, but he needs to get exact instructions for the
plastic cover from somewhere, before he tries it again.

Earle

"Brian Moga" <bmoga@waxhaw.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.LNX.4.58.0511100914590.22336@waxhaw.net. ..
>
> Could it be his oil return holes are plugged up and causing
> pressure to build in the top half of the engine... Could this
> be blowing out the gasket?
>
> Brian Moga
> Waxhaw.Net
>
> On Thu, 10 Nov 2005, Michael White wrote:
>
> > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 07:02:07 GMT
> > From: Michael White <michael12@mindspring.com>
> > Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+******
> > Subject: Re: right way to do a CJ valve cover
> >
> >
> >
> > Rusted wrote:
> >
> > > My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking.
I
> > > removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped
and
> > > the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from
a
> > > previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a
new
> > > (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a
spare
> > > engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top,
but
> > > found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I
> > > used
> > > a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used
gasket
> > > cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray
RTV
> > > to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the
middle.
> > > Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks
much
> > > worse!
> > >
> > > I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time?
> > > Buy
> > > an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> > > sides? What has worked for you?
> >
> > Rusted,
> >
> > By "starting in the middle", what did you mean? I thought there were
only
> > two bolts that hold the valve cover in place, both in the center of the
> > valve cover, not on the edges.
> >
> > If you clean it properly and torque it to specifications (make sure
you're
> > torque wrench measures in in-lbs), then you shouldn't have any leaks.
> > --
> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
> >

 

Unlikely as oil return passageways are, comparatively speaking, great big
cavernous openings, unlikely to be become plugged by anything likely to find
its way into the engine oil. It has to be an incompatibility between the
valve cover and the gasket, or he could have damaged the gasket during
installation. I have never done one of these, and I am sure that there is
an FAQ on the subject, but he needs to get exact instructions for the
plastic cover from somewhere, before he tries it again.

Earle

"Brian Moga" <bmoga@waxhaw.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.LNX.4.58.0511100914590.22336@waxhaw.net. ..
>
> Could it be his oil return holes are plugged up and causing
> pressure to build in the top half of the engine... Could this
> be blowing out the gasket?
>
> Brian Moga
> Waxhaw.Net
>
> On Thu, 10 Nov 2005, Michael White wrote:
>
> > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 07:02:07 GMT
> > From: Michael White <michael12@mindspring.com>
> > Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+******
> > Subject: Re: right way to do a CJ valve cover
> >
> >
> >
> > Rusted wrote:
> >
> > > My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking.
I
> > > removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped
and
> > > the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from
a
> > > previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a
new
> > > (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a
spare
> > > engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top,
but
> > > found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I
> > > used
> > > a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used
gasket
> > > cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray
RTV
> > > to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the
middle.
> > > Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks
much
> > > worse!
> > >
> > > I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time?
> > > Buy
> > > an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> > > sides? What has worked for you?
> >
> > Rusted,
> >
> > By "starting in the middle", what did you mean? I thought there were
only
> > two bolts that hold the valve cover in place, both in the center of the
> > valve cover, not on the edges.
> >
> > If you clean it properly and torque it to specifications (make sure
you're
> > torque wrench measures in in-lbs), then you shouldn't have any leaks.
> > --
> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
> >

 

Unlikely as oil return passageways are, comparatively speaking, great big
cavernous openings, unlikely to be become plugged by anything likely to find
its way into the engine oil. It has to be an incompatibility between the
valve cover and the gasket, or he could have damaged the gasket during
installation. I have never done one of these, and I am sure that there is
an FAQ on the subject, but he needs to get exact instructions for the
plastic cover from somewhere, before he tries it again.

Earle

"Brian Moga" <bmoga@waxhaw.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.LNX.4.58.0511100914590.22336@waxhaw.net. ..
>
> Could it be his oil return holes are plugged up and causing
> pressure to build in the top half of the engine... Could this
> be blowing out the gasket?
>
> Brian Moga
> Waxhaw.Net
>
> On Thu, 10 Nov 2005, Michael White wrote:
>
> > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 07:02:07 GMT
> > From: Michael White <michael12@mindspring.com>
> > Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+******
> > Subject: Re: right way to do a CJ valve cover
> >
> >
> >
> > Rusted wrote:
> >
> > > My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking.
I
> > > removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped
and
> > > the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from
a
> > > previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a
new
> > > (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a
spare
> > > engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top,
but
> > > found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I
> > > used
> > > a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used
gasket
> > > cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray
RTV
> > > to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the
middle.
> > > Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks
much
> > > worse!
> > >
> > > I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time?
> > > Buy
> > > an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> > > sides? What has worked for you?
> >
> > Rusted,
> >
> > By "starting in the middle", what did you mean? I thought there were
only
> > two bolts that hold the valve cover in place, both in the center of the
> > valve cover, not on the edges.
> >
> > If you clean it properly and torque it to specifications (make sure
you're
> > torque wrench measures in in-lbs), then you shouldn't have any leaks.
> > --
> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
> >

 

My 'new' engine only has the two center nuts to hold the cover on, my
old engine also had the bolts around the edge.

My current cover has been on since 2001 with no leaks still except some
around the filler hole. The old one with all the edge bolts was the
same. A new filler cap is less than $5.00.

I clean everything really well using a solvent. I have used carb
cleaner or brake cleaner or on this last one I used coleman camp fuel.
I clean it until the rag I am using stays clean after rubbing it along.
One fingerprint or any dirt/oil will make a leak....

I then use permatex 'Ultra Black' RTV, the sensor safe type. I put a
skim on the head, then put the cork gasket down and put a small bead
into the valve cover channel. I make sure the cork gasket's edge stays
clear of RTV, I only want it in the faces. That way oil can get into
the cork and swell it tight.

I then torque it down starting in the center. Twice. I find the center
has 'usually' come loose by the time the ends are torqued so I do the
same pattern again. For the two top nuts, I do them in 2 or 3 stages
after cracking the first try by torquing one nut down before the
other...

I then don't breath on the sucker for 24 hours while keeping my fingers
crossed....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Rusted wrote:
>
> My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking. I
> removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped and
> the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from a
> previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a new
> (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a spare
> engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top, but
> found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I used
> a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used gasket
> cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray RTV
> to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the middle.
> Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks much
> worse!
>
> I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time? Buy
> an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> sides? What has worked for you?

 

My 'new' engine only has the two center nuts to hold the cover on, my
old engine also had the bolts around the edge.

My current cover has been on since 2001 with no leaks still except some
around the filler hole. The old one with all the edge bolts was the
same. A new filler cap is less than $5.00.

I clean everything really well using a solvent. I have used carb
cleaner or brake cleaner or on this last one I used coleman camp fuel.
I clean it until the rag I am using stays clean after rubbing it along.
One fingerprint or any dirt/oil will make a leak....

I then use permatex 'Ultra Black' RTV, the sensor safe type. I put a
skim on the head, then put the cork gasket down and put a small bead
into the valve cover channel. I make sure the cork gasket's edge stays
clear of RTV, I only want it in the faces. That way oil can get into
the cork and swell it tight.

I then torque it down starting in the center. Twice. I find the center
has 'usually' come loose by the time the ends are torqued so I do the
same pattern again. For the two top nuts, I do them in 2 or 3 stages
after cracking the first try by torquing one nut down before the
other...

I then don't breath on the sucker for 24 hours while keeping my fingers
crossed....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Rusted wrote:
>
> My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking. I
> removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped and
> the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from a
> previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a new
> (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a spare
> engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top, but
> found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I used
> a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used gasket
> cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray RTV
> to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the middle.
> Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks much
> worse!
>
> I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time? Buy
> an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> sides? What has worked for you?

 

My 'new' engine only has the two center nuts to hold the cover on, my
old engine also had the bolts around the edge.

My current cover has been on since 2001 with no leaks still except some
around the filler hole. The old one with all the edge bolts was the
same. A new filler cap is less than $5.00.

I clean everything really well using a solvent. I have used carb
cleaner or brake cleaner or on this last one I used coleman camp fuel.
I clean it until the rag I am using stays clean after rubbing it along.
One fingerprint or any dirt/oil will make a leak....

I then use permatex 'Ultra Black' RTV, the sensor safe type. I put a
skim on the head, then put the cork gasket down and put a small bead
into the valve cover channel. I make sure the cork gasket's edge stays
clear of RTV, I only want it in the faces. That way oil can get into
the cork and swell it tight.

I then torque it down starting in the center. Twice. I find the center
has 'usually' come loose by the time the ends are torqued so I do the
same pattern again. For the two top nuts, I do them in 2 or 3 stages
after cracking the first try by torquing one nut down before the
other...

I then don't breath on the sucker for 24 hours while keeping my fingers
crossed....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Rusted wrote:
>
> My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking. I
> removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped and
> the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from a
> previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a new
> (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a spare
> engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top, but
> found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I used
> a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used gasket
> cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray RTV
> to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the middle.
> Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks much
> worse!
>
> I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time? Buy
> an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> sides? What has worked for you?

 

Amazing. I remember putting these things on Slant Sixes without cement, and
having them last, as far as I know, forever. The only thing to worry about,
was not tightening it too much, so we used a nut driver instead of a
ratchet.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4373589D.E4B3EC7@sympatico.ca...
> My 'new' engine only has the two center nuts to hold the cover on, my
> old engine also had the bolts around the edge.
>
> My current cover has been on since 2001 with no leaks still except some
> around the filler hole. The old one with all the edge bolts was the
> same. A new filler cap is less than $5.00.
>
> I clean everything really well using a solvent. I have used carb
> cleaner or brake cleaner or on this last one I used coleman camp fuel.
> I clean it until the rag I am using stays clean after rubbing it along.
> One fingerprint or any dirt/oil will make a leak....
>
> I then use permatex 'Ultra Black' RTV, the sensor safe type. I put a
> skim on the head, then put the cork gasket down and put a small bead
> into the valve cover channel. I make sure the cork gasket's edge stays
> clear of RTV, I only want it in the faces. That way oil can get into
> the cork and swell it tight.
>
> I then torque it down starting in the center. Twice. I find the center
> has 'usually' come loose by the time the ends are torqued so I do the
> same pattern again. For the two top nuts, I do them in 2 or 3 stages
> after cracking the first try by torquing one nut down before the
> other...
>
> I then don't breath on the sucker for 24 hours while keeping my fingers
> crossed....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
> >
> > My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking.
I
> > removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped
and
> > the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from a
> > previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a
new
> > (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a
spare
> > engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top,
but
> > found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I
used
> > a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used gasket
> > cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray
RTV
> > to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the middle.
> > Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks
much
> > worse!
> >
> > I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time?
Buy
> > an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> > sides? What has worked for you?
>

 

Amazing. I remember putting these things on Slant Sixes without cement, and
having them last, as far as I know, forever. The only thing to worry about,
was not tightening it too much, so we used a nut driver instead of a
ratchet.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4373589D.E4B3EC7@sympatico.ca...
> My 'new' engine only has the two center nuts to hold the cover on, my
> old engine also had the bolts around the edge.
>
> My current cover has been on since 2001 with no leaks still except some
> around the filler hole. The old one with all the edge bolts was the
> same. A new filler cap is less than $5.00.
>
> I clean everything really well using a solvent. I have used carb
> cleaner or brake cleaner or on this last one I used coleman camp fuel.
> I clean it until the rag I am using stays clean after rubbing it along.
> One fingerprint or any dirt/oil will make a leak....
>
> I then use permatex 'Ultra Black' RTV, the sensor safe type. I put a
> skim on the head, then put the cork gasket down and put a small bead
> into the valve cover channel. I make sure the cork gasket's edge stays
> clear of RTV, I only want it in the faces. That way oil can get into
> the cork and swell it tight.
>
> I then torque it down starting in the center. Twice. I find the center
> has 'usually' come loose by the time the ends are torqued so I do the
> same pattern again. For the two top nuts, I do them in 2 or 3 stages
> after cracking the first try by torquing one nut down before the
> other...
>
> I then don't breath on the sucker for 24 hours while keeping my fingers
> crossed....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
> >
> > My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking.
I
> > removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped
and
> > the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from a
> > previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a
new
> > (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a
spare
> > engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top,
but
> > found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I
used
> > a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used gasket
> > cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray
RTV
> > to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the middle.
> > Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks
much
> > worse!
> >
> > I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time?
Buy
> > an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> > sides? What has worked for you?
>

 

Amazing. I remember putting these things on Slant Sixes without cement, and
having them last, as far as I know, forever. The only thing to worry about,
was not tightening it too much, so we used a nut driver instead of a
ratchet.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4373589D.E4B3EC7@sympatico.ca...
> My 'new' engine only has the two center nuts to hold the cover on, my
> old engine also had the bolts around the edge.
>
> My current cover has been on since 2001 with no leaks still except some
> around the filler hole. The old one with all the edge bolts was the
> same. A new filler cap is less than $5.00.
>
> I clean everything really well using a solvent. I have used carb
> cleaner or brake cleaner or on this last one I used coleman camp fuel.
> I clean it until the rag I am using stays clean after rubbing it along.
> One fingerprint or any dirt/oil will make a leak....
>
> I then use permatex 'Ultra Black' RTV, the sensor safe type. I put a
> skim on the head, then put the cork gasket down and put a small bead
> into the valve cover channel. I make sure the cork gasket's edge stays
> clear of RTV, I only want it in the faces. That way oil can get into
> the cork and swell it tight.
>
> I then torque it down starting in the center. Twice. I find the center
> has 'usually' come loose by the time the ends are torqued so I do the
> same pattern again. For the two top nuts, I do them in 2 or 3 stages
> after cracking the first try by torquing one nut down before the
> other...
>
> I then don't breath on the sucker for 24 hours while keeping my fingers
> crossed....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
> >
> > My original valve cover on my 83 CJ7 with 258 engine had been leaking.
I
> > removed it to find that it was pretty hammered, kind of looked warped
and
> > the holes in the top were cracked, and it had several RTV patches from a
> > previous owner, and was missing a few bolts. So I replaced it with a
new
> > (literally never used) plastic cover that I had laying around from a
spare
> > engine I have. The new cover did not have the same holes in the top,
but
> > found bolts to replace the missing ones and it seemed to fit right. I
used
> > a cork felpro gasket, cleaned up the engine extremely well, used gasket
> > cement to hold it to the engine block, then a thin coat of silver/gray
RTV
> > to hold the cover on. Torqued it down gently, starting in the middle.
> > Then let it set for 24 hours before I started it. Well now it leaks
much
> > worse!
> >
> > I need to do the job again, but what should I do different this time?
Buy
> > an aluminum cover? A different gasket? Not use RTV at all? RTV both
> > sides? What has worked for you?
>