Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some more
things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I think
I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer cases,
I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that won't
be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
Thanks,
John

 

I read your post last night, didn't answer cause I thought you would have
a flood of replies. But here's my 2 cents. Your existing frame has lasted 30
years, and works with your plow, axles, springs, mounts etc. why would you
not just go with another CJ frame, if you need more then 30 years out of it,
get it galvinized, if going for new frame, try these guys
http://www.matkinsextreme.com/Jeeps/Jeep.htm .
If it is just the rear portion of your frame you could get these
http://www.tellico4x4.com/index.php/cPath/2297_2750 ,
As for BDS suspension, great warrenty, but stiff springs, my daughter has
the 4" on 95 YJ, no flex at all, but if you are using for plow this may be a
good thing.
Greg

"John Schroeder" <catsrus@uslink.net> wrote in message
news:PRo_g.7627$5i7.2926@newsreading01.news.tds.ne t...
> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some
> more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I
> think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer
> cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that
> won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>

 

I read your post last night, didn't answer cause I thought you would have
a flood of replies. But here's my 2 cents. Your existing frame has lasted 30
years, and works with your plow, axles, springs, mounts etc. why would you
not just go with another CJ frame, if you need more then 30 years out of it,
get it galvinized, if going for new frame, try these guys
http://www.matkinsextreme.com/Jeeps/Jeep.htm .
If it is just the rear portion of your frame you could get these
http://www.tellico4x4.com/index.php/cPath/2297_2750 ,
As for BDS suspension, great warrenty, but stiff springs, my daughter has
the 4" on 95 YJ, no flex at all, but if you are using for plow this may be a
good thing.
Greg

"John Schroeder" <catsrus@uslink.net> wrote in message
news:PRo_g.7627$5i7.2926@newsreading01.news.tds.ne t...
> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some
> more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I
> think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer
> cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that
> won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>

 

I read your post last night, didn't answer cause I thought you would have
a flood of replies. But here's my 2 cents. Your existing frame has lasted 30
years, and works with your plow, axles, springs, mounts etc. why would you
not just go with another CJ frame, if you need more then 30 years out of it,
get it galvinized, if going for new frame, try these guys
http://www.matkinsextreme.com/Jeeps/Jeep.htm .
If it is just the rear portion of your frame you could get these
http://www.tellico4x4.com/index.php/cPath/2297_2750 ,
As for BDS suspension, great warrenty, but stiff springs, my daughter has
the 4" on 95 YJ, no flex at all, but if you are using for plow this may be a
good thing.
Greg

"John Schroeder" <catsrus@uslink.net> wrote in message
news:PRo_g.7627$5i7.2926@newsreading01.news.tds.ne t...
> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some
> more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I
> think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer
> cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that
> won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>

 

Well, some of us do have real lives and can't spend 24/7 at our
terminals...

Anyway, the frame: You probably won't know how bad it is until you strip
the body off, and you'll have to strip the body off to fix it properly --
instead of just tacking bandaids to it. For my `79 CJ-5 I had repair
plates made that reached from the middle of the wheel arch to the
bumper/rear cross member. These I "sistered" on for the outside faces of
the frame, and made plates to "sister" onto the top surfaces. For the
inner faces I cut away the frame and replaced the section from the cross
member just aft of the top of the wheel arch to the rear cross member. I
also cut away and replaced the bottom section. The reason I replaced the
inner face, rather than simply boxing the frame, was that I wanted to
install a Hidden Hitch mount and simply boxing would have reduced the
distance between the rails too much. While I had it apart I made and
attached plates to all of the body mount brackets, as all of them were
rotted where the rubber should have been. It looks as though these parts
are now available commericially, they were not on the market when I did
mine.

I haven't looked lately but my guess is that a new replacement frame will
run you someplace north of two grand. Unless you have motor freight
access to an arid region of the country you won't find a junked frame in
good enough shape to make it worth your while. The TJs are getting long
in the tooth now, too.

Why do you want the lift? It might be a problem since from what you write
it seems like snow plowing is the major function of this rig. Changing
the driveline and suspension geometry even just a couple of inches is
going to increase the strain on pretty much everything.

Swapping out the brake system, here I assume that you mean from front
drums to front disks, shouldn't be a problem and you don't need the TJ
frame to do that. Any CJ disk brake donor from 1976 through `83 should
bolt up. Don't forget to include the proportioning valve (located on the
inner frame rail below the driver's left foot), and consider dropping the
extra money on preformed stainless brake lines. Really, you'll be happy
to didn't try to bend them yourself.

Article on your Dana 30 front axle:
<URL:http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/d30.html>.

Dana 30 disk brake conversion how-to:
<URL:http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/projects/pieces/front/>

Good luck.



On Sat, 21 Oct 2006, John Schroeder wrote:

> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>
>

--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

 

Well, some of us do have real lives and can't spend 24/7 at our
terminals...

Anyway, the frame: You probably won't know how bad it is until you strip
the body off, and you'll have to strip the body off to fix it properly --
instead of just tacking bandaids to it. For my `79 CJ-5 I had repair
plates made that reached from the middle of the wheel arch to the
bumper/rear cross member. These I "sistered" on for the outside faces of
the frame, and made plates to "sister" onto the top surfaces. For the
inner faces I cut away the frame and replaced the section from the cross
member just aft of the top of the wheel arch to the rear cross member. I
also cut away and replaced the bottom section. The reason I replaced the
inner face, rather than simply boxing the frame, was that I wanted to
install a Hidden Hitch mount and simply boxing would have reduced the
distance between the rails too much. While I had it apart I made and
attached plates to all of the body mount brackets, as all of them were
rotted where the rubber should have been. It looks as though these parts
are now available commericially, they were not on the market when I did
mine.

I haven't looked lately but my guess is that a new replacement frame will
run you someplace north of two grand. Unless you have motor freight
access to an arid region of the country you won't find a junked frame in
good enough shape to make it worth your while. The TJs are getting long
in the tooth now, too.

Why do you want the lift? It might be a problem since from what you write
it seems like snow plowing is the major function of this rig. Changing
the driveline and suspension geometry even just a couple of inches is
going to increase the strain on pretty much everything.

Swapping out the brake system, here I assume that you mean from front
drums to front disks, shouldn't be a problem and you don't need the TJ
frame to do that. Any CJ disk brake donor from 1976 through `83 should
bolt up. Don't forget to include the proportioning valve (located on the
inner frame rail below the driver's left foot), and consider dropping the
extra money on preformed stainless brake lines. Really, you'll be happy
to didn't try to bend them yourself.

Article on your Dana 30 front axle:
<URL:http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/d30.html>.

Dana 30 disk brake conversion how-to:
<URL:http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/projects/pieces/front/>

Good luck.



On Sat, 21 Oct 2006, John Schroeder wrote:

> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>
>

--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

 

Well, some of us do have real lives and can't spend 24/7 at our
terminals...

Anyway, the frame: You probably won't know how bad it is until you strip
the body off, and you'll have to strip the body off to fix it properly --
instead of just tacking bandaids to it. For my `79 CJ-5 I had repair
plates made that reached from the middle of the wheel arch to the
bumper/rear cross member. These I "sistered" on for the outside faces of
the frame, and made plates to "sister" onto the top surfaces. For the
inner faces I cut away the frame and replaced the section from the cross
member just aft of the top of the wheel arch to the rear cross member. I
also cut away and replaced the bottom section. The reason I replaced the
inner face, rather than simply boxing the frame, was that I wanted to
install a Hidden Hitch mount and simply boxing would have reduced the
distance between the rails too much. While I had it apart I made and
attached plates to all of the body mount brackets, as all of them were
rotted where the rubber should have been. It looks as though these parts
are now available commericially, they were not on the market when I did
mine.

I haven't looked lately but my guess is that a new replacement frame will
run you someplace north of two grand. Unless you have motor freight
access to an arid region of the country you won't find a junked frame in
good enough shape to make it worth your while. The TJs are getting long
in the tooth now, too.

Why do you want the lift? It might be a problem since from what you write
it seems like snow plowing is the major function of this rig. Changing
the driveline and suspension geometry even just a couple of inches is
going to increase the strain on pretty much everything.

Swapping out the brake system, here I assume that you mean from front
drums to front disks, shouldn't be a problem and you don't need the TJ
frame to do that. Any CJ disk brake donor from 1976 through `83 should
bolt up. Don't forget to include the proportioning valve (located on the
inner frame rail below the driver's left foot), and consider dropping the
extra money on preformed stainless brake lines. Really, you'll be happy
to didn't try to bend them yourself.

Article on your Dana 30 front axle:
<URL:http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/d30.html>.

Dana 30 disk brake conversion how-to:
<URL:http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/projects/pieces/front/>

Good luck.



On Sat, 21 Oct 2006, John Schroeder wrote:

> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>
>

--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

 

I read the "rusty frame" post, thought the idea was so far out of reason
that I thought it might be a troll. No reason to even start typing.

A CJ body will not fit on a TJ frame without some fairly serious
modification. You mention a BDS lift, are you planning on using the TJ
coil suspension or try and back fit leaf suspension? Ditto for the
brakes, what are you planning to start with? If you have to ask the
question, you have no clue as to the amount of work involved. And what
is a Timbren unit?

Repairing the frame is best started with a set of frame plates from
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm click on catalog, look for
'frame plates' These can be installed with the body on the vehicle but
are MUCH easier with the body off.

You don't say but the '77 can have either drum or disk brakes on the
front. '78 and later are all disk front, putting these on is a bolt on
swap. With these on, getting good brake action is just a matter of
replacing whatever bad parts you have in there now. Worst case is master
cylinder, boost, 2 wheel cylinders, front rotors, front calipers. Not
cheap but not horrible.



John Schroeder wrote:
> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>

 

I read the "rusty frame" post, thought the idea was so far out of reason
that I thought it might be a troll. No reason to even start typing.

A CJ body will not fit on a TJ frame without some fairly serious
modification. You mention a BDS lift, are you planning on using the TJ
coil suspension or try and back fit leaf suspension? Ditto for the
brakes, what are you planning to start with? If you have to ask the
question, you have no clue as to the amount of work involved. And what
is a Timbren unit?

Repairing the frame is best started with a set of frame plates from
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm click on catalog, look for
'frame plates' These can be installed with the body on the vehicle but
are MUCH easier with the body off.

You don't say but the '77 can have either drum or disk brakes on the
front. '78 and later are all disk front, putting these on is a bolt on
swap. With these on, getting good brake action is just a matter of
replacing whatever bad parts you have in there now. Worst case is master
cylinder, boost, 2 wheel cylinders, front rotors, front calipers. Not
cheap but not horrible.



John Schroeder wrote:
> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>

 

I read the "rusty frame" post, thought the idea was so far out of reason
that I thought it might be a troll. No reason to even start typing.

A CJ body will not fit on a TJ frame without some fairly serious
modification. You mention a BDS lift, are you planning on using the TJ
coil suspension or try and back fit leaf suspension? Ditto for the
brakes, what are you planning to start with? If you have to ask the
question, you have no clue as to the amount of work involved. And what
is a Timbren unit?

Repairing the frame is best started with a set of frame plates from
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm click on catalog, look for
'frame plates' These can be installed with the body on the vehicle but
are MUCH easier with the body off.

You don't say but the '77 can have either drum or disk brakes on the
front. '78 and later are all disk front, putting these on is a bolt on
swap. With these on, getting good brake action is just a matter of
replacing whatever bad parts you have in there now. Worst case is master
cylinder, boost, 2 wheel cylinders, front rotors, front calipers. Not
cheap but not horrible.



John Schroeder wrote:
> Hi all. I posted "77 CJ 7 rusty frame" last night and so far I haven't
> gotten any replies. I have been rethinking this project and have some more
> things I would like to get some input on. My CJ is a Golden Eagle model
> with a 304 and auto transmission, and has the Borg-Warner Quadratrack
> transfer case. It is full time 4WD. I am thinking about swapping out the
> transfer case so that I get low range (I don't have low range now). I think
> I will keep the automatic transmission (TH400). If I change transfer cases,
> I think I would swap out my hubs for some locking ones, so I could run in
> 2WD. If I indeed use a TJ frame and a BDS 2 1/2 lift suspension kit, I
> would also swap out my brake system, which is really bad right now. My
> engine and tranny still work well, so I don't want to dump them yet. If I
> have to change either of them (or both of them) at a later time, that won't
> be too much of a problem. Does this sound like a feasible plan?
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
>