Mike Romain

Well, I had to take the fan off on these too. The belt comes off with
the fan pulley.

Mike

Greg wrote:
>
> On the 95 YJ 2.5, it is air box and hose, fan shroud, fan, belt, rad hose,
> we did the thermostat too so heater hose also, as I say by the time we had
> water pump out more then 1/2 the engine bay was empty, boy that's a small
> engine compaired to my 258, felt like I could just lift it out and put it on
> work bench to work on.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43989411.C732F474@sympatico.ca...
> > Well, I haven't done 'that' engine, but on all the other Jeep waterpumps
> > I have done I never unbolted anything except the the pump itself. I
> > have never even loosened off the fan belts.....
> >
> > Really. The pumps can wiggle out from under the steering bracket and
> > the belt 'was' adjusted right before so why mess with it....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > mohead@my-deja.com wrote:
> >>
> >> I replaced a water pump in my '97 TJ 2.5L jeep last weekend at 128,600
> >> miles. While I was at it, I replaced the upper and lower hoses as well.
> >> I ordered the Jeep service manual from Daimler Chrysler just prior to
> >> undertaking the task.
> >>
> >> Has anyone in this group ever replaced a water pump on this model? The
> >> reason I ask is because of the Power Steering pump bracket and how much
> >> of a pain it was.
> >>
> >> To those who aren't aware, the power steering pump bracket is attached
> >> to the water pump, so you must unbolt the power steering pump, then
> >> unbolt the power steering pump bracket to get the water pump out. The
> >> manual says to completely remove the bracket altogether, but the
> >> graphic that it shows isn't accurate. It shows the bracket attached
> >> with three simple bolts. In reality, the two front bolts are simple,
> >> but the third lower attachment is another story. There, a little flange
> >> is sandwiched between the engine block and a major engine attachment
> >> fitting, connecting the engine to the frame and this sandwiched flange
> >> is further affixed with a funky stud/nut type fastener (a stud with a
> >> nut fixed on it somehow). I took this funky fastener out, but there was
> >> no way to get the bracket out because this little flange was smashed
> >> between the motor mount and the engine. If I got it out, I knew I'd
> >> never get it back in.
> >>
> >> I ended up replacing the nut/stud, removed the two front bolts, and
> >> just bending the bracket out of the way so I could get the water pump
> >> out.
> >>
> >> I replaced the pump, but then had MAJOR problems with the bracket
> >> because I couldn't get the holes in the bracket to line up properly
> >> with the holes in the pump. The pump is cast aluminum I believe. With
> >> the bracket bolts not lining up perfectly, I began to cross thread the
> >> bolts as I tried to screw them into the tapped holes on the pump. I
> >> pulled and pushed and tugged that bracket for at least and hour trying
> >> to get it back into its original shape. By screwing a bolt into the
> >> back side of the upper hole, thereby reforming the theads, I finally
> >> got one bolt back in, but the lower one I had to leave out. I looks
> >> like it is running fine.
> >>
> >> I am interested in hearing about how others have handled replacing a
> >> water pump on this engine.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> -Trent

Mike Romain

Well, I had to take the fan off on these too. The belt comes off with
the fan pulley.

Mike

Greg wrote:
>
> On the 95 YJ 2.5, it is air box and hose, fan shroud, fan, belt, rad hose,
> we did the thermostat too so heater hose also, as I say by the time we had
> water pump out more then 1/2 the engine bay was empty, boy that's a small
> engine compaired to my 258, felt like I could just lift it out and put it on
> work bench to work on.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43989411.C732F474@sympatico.ca...
> > Well, I haven't done 'that' engine, but on all the other Jeep waterpumps
> > I have done I never unbolted anything except the the pump itself. I
> > have never even loosened off the fan belts.....
> >
> > Really. The pumps can wiggle out from under the steering bracket and
> > the belt 'was' adjusted right before so why mess with it....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > mohead@my-deja.com wrote:
> >>
> >> I replaced a water pump in my '97 TJ 2.5L jeep last weekend at 128,600
> >> miles. While I was at it, I replaced the upper and lower hoses as well.
> >> I ordered the Jeep service manual from Daimler Chrysler just prior to
> >> undertaking the task.
> >>
> >> Has anyone in this group ever replaced a water pump on this model? The
> >> reason I ask is because of the Power Steering pump bracket and how much
> >> of a pain it was.
> >>
> >> To those who aren't aware, the power steering pump bracket is attached
> >> to the water pump, so you must unbolt the power steering pump, then
> >> unbolt the power steering pump bracket to get the water pump out. The
> >> manual says to completely remove the bracket altogether, but the
> >> graphic that it shows isn't accurate. It shows the bracket attached
> >> with three simple bolts. In reality, the two front bolts are simple,
> >> but the third lower attachment is another story. There, a little flange
> >> is sandwiched between the engine block and a major engine attachment
> >> fitting, connecting the engine to the frame and this sandwiched flange
> >> is further affixed with a funky stud/nut type fastener (a stud with a
> >> nut fixed on it somehow). I took this funky fastener out, but there was
> >> no way to get the bracket out because this little flange was smashed
> >> between the motor mount and the engine. If I got it out, I knew I'd
> >> never get it back in.
> >>
> >> I ended up replacing the nut/stud, removed the two front bolts, and
> >> just bending the bracket out of the way so I could get the water pump
> >> out.
> >>
> >> I replaced the pump, but then had MAJOR problems with the bracket
> >> because I couldn't get the holes in the bracket to line up properly
> >> with the holes in the pump. The pump is cast aluminum I believe. With
> >> the bracket bolts not lining up perfectly, I began to cross thread the
> >> bolts as I tried to screw them into the tapped holes on the pump. I
> >> pulled and pushed and tugged that bracket for at least and hour trying
> >> to get it back into its original shape. By screwing a bolt into the
> >> back side of the upper hole, thereby reforming the theads, I finally
> >> got one bolt back in, but the lower one I had to leave out. I looks
> >> like it is running fine.
> >>
> >> I am interested in hearing about how others have handled replacing a
> >> water pump on this engine.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> -Trent

Mike Romain

Well, I had to take the fan off on these too. The belt comes off with
the fan pulley.

Mike

Greg wrote:
>
> On the 95 YJ 2.5, it is air box and hose, fan shroud, fan, belt, rad hose,
> we did the thermostat too so heater hose also, as I say by the time we had
> water pump out more then 1/2 the engine bay was empty, boy that's a small
> engine compaired to my 258, felt like I could just lift it out and put it on
> work bench to work on.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43989411.C732F474@sympatico.ca...
> > Well, I haven't done 'that' engine, but on all the other Jeep waterpumps
> > I have done I never unbolted anything except the the pump itself. I
> > have never even loosened off the fan belts.....
> >
> > Really. The pumps can wiggle out from under the steering bracket and
> > the belt 'was' adjusted right before so why mess with it....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > mohead@my-deja.com wrote:
> >>
> >> I replaced a water pump in my '97 TJ 2.5L jeep last weekend at 128,600
> >> miles. While I was at it, I replaced the upper and lower hoses as well.
> >> I ordered the Jeep service manual from Daimler Chrysler just prior to
> >> undertaking the task.
> >>
> >> Has anyone in this group ever replaced a water pump on this model? The
> >> reason I ask is because of the Power Steering pump bracket and how much
> >> of a pain it was.
> >>
> >> To those who aren't aware, the power steering pump bracket is attached
> >> to the water pump, so you must unbolt the power steering pump, then
> >> unbolt the power steering pump bracket to get the water pump out. The
> >> manual says to completely remove the bracket altogether, but the
> >> graphic that it shows isn't accurate. It shows the bracket attached
> >> with three simple bolts. In reality, the two front bolts are simple,
> >> but the third lower attachment is another story. There, a little flange
> >> is sandwiched between the engine block and a major engine attachment
> >> fitting, connecting the engine to the frame and this sandwiched flange
> >> is further affixed with a funky stud/nut type fastener (a stud with a
> >> nut fixed on it somehow). I took this funky fastener out, but there was
> >> no way to get the bracket out because this little flange was smashed
> >> between the motor mount and the engine. If I got it out, I knew I'd
> >> never get it back in.
> >>
> >> I ended up replacing the nut/stud, removed the two front bolts, and
> >> just bending the bracket out of the way so I could get the water pump
> >> out.
> >>
> >> I replaced the pump, but then had MAJOR problems with the bracket
> >> because I couldn't get the holes in the bracket to line up properly
> >> with the holes in the pump. The pump is cast aluminum I believe. With
> >> the bracket bolts not lining up perfectly, I began to cross thread the
> >> bolts as I tried to screw them into the tapped holes on the pump. I
> >> pulled and pushed and tugged that bracket for at least and hour trying
> >> to get it back into its original shape. By screwing a bolt into the
> >> back side of the upper hole, thereby reforming the theads, I finally
> >> got one bolt back in, but the lower one I had to leave out. I looks
> >> like it is running fine.
> >>
> >> I am interested in hearing about how others have handled replacing a
> >> water pump on this engine.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> -Trent

mohead@my-deja.com

Mike,

I guess the 2.5L on the '97 TJ is different than what you and Greg have
worked on. On my waterpump, there are a total of 6 holes consisting of
4 clearance holes (to bolt the pump to the engine block) and 2 tapped
holes (into which the power steering pump bracket bolts go). The power
steering pump bracket is also attached to a large casting (intake
manifold) with three long bolts that go thru the power steering pump.
The pump ends up being sandwiched between the bracket and the casting.

This power steering pump bracket traps the water pump and there ain't
no way I can see that you could get that water pump out without
removing that bracket, or bending it like I did. I didn't actually
remove the pump though, I just unattached it from the bracket and the
casting and sat it over to the side of the engine compartment, with the
hoses still attached.

For the record, to replace the water pump and both radiator hoses, I
had to remove the fan, the belt, the water pump pulley, power steering
pump (hoses still attached), I ended up removing the other idler pulley
too on the left to gain access to something (I can't remember now) and
I removed the air filter/manifold connector piece that runs across the
top of the engine so that I could access the heater core hose
connection to the water pump. The adjustment idler pulley on the right
is attached to the power steering bracket, so you have to get the belt
off to allow you to get that bracket out (or at least out of the way).

thanks for the replies.

-Trent

mohead@my-deja.com

Mike,

I guess the 2.5L on the '97 TJ is different than what you and Greg have
worked on. On my waterpump, there are a total of 6 holes consisting of
4 clearance holes (to bolt the pump to the engine block) and 2 tapped
holes (into which the power steering pump bracket bolts go). The power
steering pump bracket is also attached to a large casting (intake
manifold) with three long bolts that go thru the power steering pump.
The pump ends up being sandwiched between the bracket and the casting.

This power steering pump bracket traps the water pump and there ain't
no way I can see that you could get that water pump out without
removing that bracket, or bending it like I did. I didn't actually
remove the pump though, I just unattached it from the bracket and the
casting and sat it over to the side of the engine compartment, with the
hoses still attached.

For the record, to replace the water pump and both radiator hoses, I
had to remove the fan, the belt, the water pump pulley, power steering
pump (hoses still attached), I ended up removing the other idler pulley
too on the left to gain access to something (I can't remember now) and
I removed the air filter/manifold connector piece that runs across the
top of the engine so that I could access the heater core hose
connection to the water pump. The adjustment idler pulley on the right
is attached to the power steering bracket, so you have to get the belt
off to allow you to get that bracket out (or at least out of the way).

thanks for the replies.

-Trent

mohead@my-deja.com

Mike,

I guess the 2.5L on the '97 TJ is different than what you and Greg have
worked on. On my waterpump, there are a total of 6 holes consisting of
4 clearance holes (to bolt the pump to the engine block) and 2 tapped
holes (into which the power steering pump bracket bolts go). The power
steering pump bracket is also attached to a large casting (intake
manifold) with three long bolts that go thru the power steering pump.
The pump ends up being sandwiched between the bracket and the casting.

This power steering pump bracket traps the water pump and there ain't
no way I can see that you could get that water pump out without
removing that bracket, or bending it like I did. I didn't actually
remove the pump though, I just unattached it from the bracket and the
casting and sat it over to the side of the engine compartment, with the
hoses still attached.

For the record, to replace the water pump and both radiator hoses, I
had to remove the fan, the belt, the water pump pulley, power steering
pump (hoses still attached), I ended up removing the other idler pulley
too on the left to gain access to something (I can't remember now) and
I removed the air filter/manifold connector piece that runs across the
top of the engine so that I could access the heater core hose
connection to the water pump. The adjustment idler pulley on the right
is attached to the power steering bracket, so you have to get the belt
off to allow you to get that bracket out (or at least out of the way).

thanks for the replies.

-Trent

Mike Romain

I have found that the pumps will slide sideways and twist out from under
that bracket. The pump should have come stock with a paper gasket.
This gives a little sliding room. Even more going back in after it's
cleaned.

When I take off the fan and pulley, this loosens off the fan belt. I
gave up going after the tensioner unless I have to.

Could be they have made the new ones so you get the privilege of paying
the $tealership several more hours labor to change it though....

Mike

mohead@my-deja.com wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I guess the 2.5L on the '97 TJ is different than what you and Greg have
> worked on. On my waterpump, there are a total of 6 holes consisting of
> 4 clearance holes (to bolt the pump to the engine block) and 2 tapped
> holes (into which the power steering pump bracket bolts go). The power
> steering pump bracket is also attached to a large casting (intake
> manifold) with three long bolts that go thru the power steering pump.
> The pump ends up being sandwiched between the bracket and the casting.
>
> This power steering pump bracket traps the water pump and there ain't
> no way I can see that you could get that water pump out without
> removing that bracket, or bending it like I did. I didn't actually
> remove the pump though, I just unattached it from the bracket and the
> casting and sat it over to the side of the engine compartment, with the
> hoses still attached.
>
> For the record, to replace the water pump and both radiator hoses, I
> had to remove the fan, the belt, the water pump pulley, power steering
> pump (hoses still attached), I ended up removing the other idler pulley
> too on the left to gain access to something (I can't remember now) and
> I removed the air filter/manifold connector piece that runs across the
> top of the engine so that I could access the heater core hose
> connection to the water pump. The adjustment idler pulley on the right
> is attached to the power steering bracket, so you have to get the belt
> off to allow you to get that bracket out (or at least out of the way).
>
> thanks for the replies.
>
> -Trent

Mike Romain

I have found that the pumps will slide sideways and twist out from under
that bracket. The pump should have come stock with a paper gasket.
This gives a little sliding room. Even more going back in after it's
cleaned.

When I take off the fan and pulley, this loosens off the fan belt. I
gave up going after the tensioner unless I have to.

Could be they have made the new ones so you get the privilege of paying
the $tealership several more hours labor to change it though....

Mike

mohead@my-deja.com wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I guess the 2.5L on the '97 TJ is different than what you and Greg have
> worked on. On my waterpump, there are a total of 6 holes consisting of
> 4 clearance holes (to bolt the pump to the engine block) and 2 tapped
> holes (into which the power steering pump bracket bolts go). The power
> steering pump bracket is also attached to a large casting (intake
> manifold) with three long bolts that go thru the power steering pump.
> The pump ends up being sandwiched between the bracket and the casting.
>
> This power steering pump bracket traps the water pump and there ain't
> no way I can see that you could get that water pump out without
> removing that bracket, or bending it like I did. I didn't actually
> remove the pump though, I just unattached it from the bracket and the
> casting and sat it over to the side of the engine compartment, with the
> hoses still attached.
>
> For the record, to replace the water pump and both radiator hoses, I
> had to remove the fan, the belt, the water pump pulley, power steering
> pump (hoses still attached), I ended up removing the other idler pulley
> too on the left to gain access to something (I can't remember now) and
> I removed the air filter/manifold connector piece that runs across the
> top of the engine so that I could access the heater core hose
> connection to the water pump. The adjustment idler pulley on the right
> is attached to the power steering bracket, so you have to get the belt
> off to allow you to get that bracket out (or at least out of the way).
>
> thanks for the replies.
>
> -Trent

Mike Romain

I have found that the pumps will slide sideways and twist out from under
that bracket. The pump should have come stock with a paper gasket.
This gives a little sliding room. Even more going back in after it's
cleaned.

When I take off the fan and pulley, this loosens off the fan belt. I
gave up going after the tensioner unless I have to.

Could be they have made the new ones so you get the privilege of paying
the $tealership several more hours labor to change it though....

Mike

mohead@my-deja.com wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I guess the 2.5L on the '97 TJ is different than what you and Greg have
> worked on. On my waterpump, there are a total of 6 holes consisting of
> 4 clearance holes (to bolt the pump to the engine block) and 2 tapped
> holes (into which the power steering pump bracket bolts go). The power
> steering pump bracket is also attached to a large casting (intake
> manifold) with three long bolts that go thru the power steering pump.
> The pump ends up being sandwiched between the bracket and the casting.
>
> This power steering pump bracket traps the water pump and there ain't
> no way I can see that you could get that water pump out without
> removing that bracket, or bending it like I did. I didn't actually
> remove the pump though, I just unattached it from the bracket and the
> casting and sat it over to the side of the engine compartment, with the
> hoses still attached.
>
> For the record, to replace the water pump and both radiator hoses, I
> had to remove the fan, the belt, the water pump pulley, power steering
> pump (hoses still attached), I ended up removing the other idler pulley
> too on the left to gain access to something (I can't remember now) and
> I removed the air filter/manifold connector piece that runs across the
> top of the engine so that I could access the heater core hose
> connection to the water pump. The adjustment idler pulley on the right
> is attached to the power steering bracket, so you have to get the belt
> off to allow you to get that bracket out (or at least out of the way).
>
> thanks for the replies.
>
> -Trent

Greg

Same on the 95 YJ, just tilt it just right to get it under bracket, and I
know what you mean Mike about the tensioner, we changed her belt a while
back, finally gave up on the tentioner and turned engine and rolled belt on.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:439DF885.F43CA7A2@sympatico.ca...
>I have found that the pumps will slide sideways and twist out from under
> that bracket. The pump should have come stock with a paper gasket.
> This gives a little sliding room. Even more going back in after it's
> cleaned.
>
> When I take off the fan and pulley, this loosens off the fan belt. I
> gave up going after the tensioner unless I have to.
>
> Could be they have made the new ones so you get the privilege of paying
> the $tealership several more hours labor to change it though....
>
> Mike
>
> mohead@my-deja.com wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> I guess the 2.5L on the '97 TJ is different than what you and Greg have
>> worked on. On my waterpump, there are a total of 6 holes consisting of
>> 4 clearance holes (to bolt the pump to the engine block) and 2 tapped
>> holes (into which the power steering pump bracket bolts go). The power
>> steering pump bracket is also attached to a large casting (intake
>> manifold) with three long bolts that go thru the power steering pump.
>> The pump ends up being sandwiched between the bracket and the casting.
>>
>> This power steering pump bracket traps the water pump and there ain't
>> no way I can see that you could get that water pump out without
>> removing that bracket, or bending it like I did. I didn't actually
>> remove the pump though, I just unattached it from the bracket and the
>> casting and sat it over to the side of the engine compartment, with the
>> hoses still attached.
>>
>> For the record, to replace the water pump and both radiator hoses, I
>> had to remove the fan, the belt, the water pump pulley, power steering
>> pump (hoses still attached), I ended up removing the other idler pulley
>> too on the left to gain access to something (I can't remember now) and
>> I removed the air filter/manifold connector piece that runs across the
>> top of the engine so that I could access the heater core hose
>> connection to the water pump. The adjustment idler pulley on the right
>> is attached to the power steering bracket, so you have to get the belt
>> off to allow you to get that bracket out (or at least out of the way).
>>
>> thanks for the replies.
>>
>> -Trent