replace u-joint
03-25-2005, 01:16 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: replace u-joint
If one is bad, the other is probably about due for replacement. And once
you have done one side, you will know how to do it in less time. But
doing the first one will test your willpower. All of us that have done
it have some "magic secret" to get the hubs freed up. Mine is to use
some 6 ton jack stands that SAFELY extend to 24". The only good place to
pound is on the very bottom side, you need to get a good swing with a
2-1/2 pound hammer with the head up and the handle straight down. I even
have a 6 pound hammer (sledge hammer with a shortened handle) If you do
it yourself you will do one side, then wait a week to get the courage up
to tackle the other side. Plus you can douse it with pentrating oil
every day for the week inbetween!
Herb wrote:
> thanks, Roy.
> shall i replace both side?
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:0CM0e.3349$gI5.2487@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>Just replace the U-joint. $10 to $20 worth of parts. Bill probably has a
>>link to a pictorical of the process. Beware that getting the hub out of
>>the steering knuckle can be a RPITA, especially if you live in the salted
>>roads country. Shop labor should be under 2 hours unless they have
>>problems with the hub.
>>
>>Herb wrote:
>>
>>>Hi ALL,
>>>
>>>92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>>>replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>>>side at the same time?
>>>
>>>thank you for any commments
>
>
>
you have done one side, you will know how to do it in less time. But
doing the first one will test your willpower. All of us that have done
it have some "magic secret" to get the hubs freed up. Mine is to use
some 6 ton jack stands that SAFELY extend to 24". The only good place to
pound is on the very bottom side, you need to get a good swing with a
2-1/2 pound hammer with the head up and the handle straight down. I even
have a 6 pound hammer (sledge hammer with a shortened handle) If you do
it yourself you will do one side, then wait a week to get the courage up
to tackle the other side. Plus you can douse it with pentrating oil
every day for the week inbetween!
Herb wrote:
> thanks, Roy.
> shall i replace both side?
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:0CM0e.3349$gI5.2487@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>Just replace the U-joint. $10 to $20 worth of parts. Bill probably has a
>>link to a pictorical of the process. Beware that getting the hub out of
>>the steering knuckle can be a RPITA, especially if you live in the salted
>>roads country. Shop labor should be under 2 hours unless they have
>>problems with the hub.
>>
>>Herb wrote:
>>
>>>Hi ALL,
>>>
>>>92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>>>replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>>>side at the same time?
>>>
>>>thank you for any commments
>
>
>
03-25-2005, 01:16 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: replace u-joint
If one is bad, the other is probably about due for replacement. And once
you have done one side, you will know how to do it in less time. But
doing the first one will test your willpower. All of us that have done
it have some "magic secret" to get the hubs freed up. Mine is to use
some 6 ton jack stands that SAFELY extend to 24". The only good place to
pound is on the very bottom side, you need to get a good swing with a
2-1/2 pound hammer with the head up and the handle straight down. I even
have a 6 pound hammer (sledge hammer with a shortened handle) If you do
it yourself you will do one side, then wait a week to get the courage up
to tackle the other side. Plus you can douse it with pentrating oil
every day for the week inbetween!
Herb wrote:
> thanks, Roy.
> shall i replace both side?
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:0CM0e.3349$gI5.2487@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>Just replace the U-joint. $10 to $20 worth of parts. Bill probably has a
>>link to a pictorical of the process. Beware that getting the hub out of
>>the steering knuckle can be a RPITA, especially if you live in the salted
>>roads country. Shop labor should be under 2 hours unless they have
>>problems with the hub.
>>
>>Herb wrote:
>>
>>>Hi ALL,
>>>
>>>92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>>>replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>>>side at the same time?
>>>
>>>thank you for any commments
>
>
>
you have done one side, you will know how to do it in less time. But
doing the first one will test your willpower. All of us that have done
it have some "magic secret" to get the hubs freed up. Mine is to use
some 6 ton jack stands that SAFELY extend to 24". The only good place to
pound is on the very bottom side, you need to get a good swing with a
2-1/2 pound hammer with the head up and the handle straight down. I even
have a 6 pound hammer (sledge hammer with a shortened handle) If you do
it yourself you will do one side, then wait a week to get the courage up
to tackle the other side. Plus you can douse it with pentrating oil
every day for the week inbetween!
Herb wrote:
> thanks, Roy.
> shall i replace both side?
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:0CM0e.3349$gI5.2487@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>Just replace the U-joint. $10 to $20 worth of parts. Bill probably has a
>>link to a pictorical of the process. Beware that getting the hub out of
>>the steering knuckle can be a RPITA, especially if you live in the salted
>>roads country. Shop labor should be under 2 hours unless they have
>>problems with the hub.
>>
>>Herb wrote:
>>
>>>Hi ALL,
>>>
>>>92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>>>replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>>>side at the same time?
>>>
>>>thank you for any commments
>
>
>
03-26-2005, 01:30 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: replace u-joint
thank you everyone for the input.
I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
all.
Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
Herb
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
>
> The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> for several days if you have that option.
>
> Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
>
> Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> in and be very gentle at the last 6".
>
> When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> apart.
>
> The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> hub loose.
>
> You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Herb wrote:
>>
>> Hi ALL,
>>
>> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>> side
>> at the same time?
>>
>> thank you for any commments
I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
all.
Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
Herb
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
>
> The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> for several days if you have that option.
>
> Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
>
> Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> in and be very gentle at the last 6".
>
> When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> apart.
>
> The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> hub loose.
>
> You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Herb wrote:
>>
>> Hi ALL,
>>
>> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>> side
>> at the same time?
>>
>> thank you for any commments
03-26-2005, 01:30 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: replace u-joint
thank you everyone for the input.
I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
all.
Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
Herb
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
>
> The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> for several days if you have that option.
>
> Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
>
> Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> in and be very gentle at the last 6".
>
> When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> apart.
>
> The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> hub loose.
>
> You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Herb wrote:
>>
>> Hi ALL,
>>
>> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>> side
>> at the same time?
>>
>> thank you for any commments
I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
all.
Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
Herb
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
>
> The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> for several days if you have that option.
>
> Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
>
> Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> in and be very gentle at the last 6".
>
> When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> apart.
>
> The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> hub loose.
>
> You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Herb wrote:
>>
>> Hi ALL,
>>
>> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>> side
>> at the same time?
>>
>> thank you for any commments
03-26-2005, 01:30 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: replace u-joint
thank you everyone for the input.
I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
all.
Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
Herb
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
>
> The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> for several days if you have that option.
>
> Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
>
> Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> in and be very gentle at the last 6".
>
> When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> apart.
>
> The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> hub loose.
>
> You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Herb wrote:
>>
>> Hi ALL,
>>
>> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>> side
>> at the same time?
>>
>> thank you for any commments
I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
all.
Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
Herb
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
>
> The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> for several days if you have that option.
>
> Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
>
> Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> in and be very gentle at the last 6".
>
> When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> apart.
>
> The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> hub loose.
>
> You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Herb wrote:
>>
>> Hi ALL,
>>
>> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>> side
>> at the same time?
>>
>> thank you for any commments
03-26-2005, 09:24 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: replace u-joint
I would check out Hans at Ontario RV or ORV I think it is in the phone
book.
http://www.ontariorv.com/
Mike
Herb wrote:
>
> thank you everyone for the input.
> I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
> get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
> all.
>
> Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
>
> Herb
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> > You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> > decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
> >
> > The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> > rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> > for several days if you have that option.
> >
> > Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> > is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> > tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> > I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> > you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
> >
> > Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> > in and be very gentle at the last 6".
> >
> > When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> > the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> > apart.
> >
> > The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> > to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> > cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> > and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> > the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> > hub loose.
> >
> > You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> > setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Herb wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi ALL,
> >>
> >> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> >> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> >> side
> >> at the same time?
> >>
> >> thank you for any commments
book.
http://www.ontariorv.com/
Mike
Herb wrote:
>
> thank you everyone for the input.
> I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
> get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
> all.
>
> Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
>
> Herb
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> > You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> > decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
> >
> > The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> > rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> > for several days if you have that option.
> >
> > Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> > is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> > tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> > I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> > you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
> >
> > Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> > in and be very gentle at the last 6".
> >
> > When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> > the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> > apart.
> >
> > The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> > to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> > cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> > and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> > the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> > hub loose.
> >
> > You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> > setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Herb wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi ALL,
> >>
> >> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> >> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> >> side
> >> at the same time?
> >>
> >> thank you for any commments
03-26-2005, 09:24 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: replace u-joint
I would check out Hans at Ontario RV or ORV I think it is in the phone
book.
http://www.ontariorv.com/
Mike
Herb wrote:
>
> thank you everyone for the input.
> I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
> get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
> all.
>
> Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
>
> Herb
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> > You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> > decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
> >
> > The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> > rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> > for several days if you have that option.
> >
> > Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> > is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> > tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> > I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> > you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
> >
> > Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> > in and be very gentle at the last 6".
> >
> > When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> > the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> > apart.
> >
> > The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> > to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> > cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> > and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> > the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> > hub loose.
> >
> > You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> > setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Herb wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi ALL,
> >>
> >> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> >> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> >> side
> >> at the same time?
> >>
> >> thank you for any commments
book.
http://www.ontariorv.com/
Mike
Herb wrote:
>
> thank you everyone for the input.
> I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
> get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
> all.
>
> Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
>
> Herb
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> > You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> > decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
> >
> > The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> > rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> > for several days if you have that option.
> >
> > Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> > is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> > tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> > I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> > you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
> >
> > Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> > in and be very gentle at the last 6".
> >
> > When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> > the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> > apart.
> >
> > The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> > to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> > cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> > and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> > the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> > hub loose.
> >
> > You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> > setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Herb wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi ALL,
> >>
> >> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> >> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> >> side
> >> at the same time?
> >>
> >> thank you for any commments
03-26-2005, 09:24 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: replace u-joint
I would check out Hans at Ontario RV or ORV I think it is in the phone
book.
http://www.ontariorv.com/
Mike
Herb wrote:
>
> thank you everyone for the input.
> I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
> get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
> all.
>
> Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
>
> Herb
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> > You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> > decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
> >
> > The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> > rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> > for several days if you have that option.
> >
> > Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> > is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> > tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> > I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> > you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
> >
> > Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> > in and be very gentle at the last 6".
> >
> > When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> > the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> > apart.
> >
> > The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> > to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> > cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> > and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> > the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> > hub loose.
> >
> > You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> > setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Herb wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi ALL,
> >>
> >> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> >> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> >> side
> >> at the same time?
> >>
> >> thank you for any commments
book.
http://www.ontariorv.com/
Mike
Herb wrote:
>
> thank you everyone for the input.
> I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to
> get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at
> all.
>
> Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?
>
> Herb
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:42441A7C.A87101F5@sympatico.ca...
> > You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
> > decide if you want to tackle the other side.....
> >
> > The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
> > rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
> > for several days if you have that option.
> >
> > Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
> > is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
> > tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
> > I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
> > you really want to get in there you could borrow it.
> >
> > Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
> > in and be very gentle at the last 6".
> >
> > When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
> > the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
> > apart.
> >
> > The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
> > to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
> > cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
> > and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
> > the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
> > hub loose.
> >
> > You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
> > setup and you will just tear the hub apart.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Herb wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi ALL,
> >>
> >> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> >> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> >> side
> >> at the same time?
> >>
> >> thank you for any commments
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