Someone had posted a method to easily remove the hub out of the knuckle that
makes sense. I have not tried this trick yet but it should reduce damage
and time making this a 0.5 job taking off the hub instead of 1.5 hours. <g>

Basically you can loosen that center axle nut, remove caliper bolts and
loosen the hub bolts then pry against the wheel and the steering knuckle at
the tie rod. Some people caution doing this with the mag wheels so I
suggest using a steel wheel then. I guess I would also remove the caliper
out of the way while switching to the steel wheel. ;-)

Of course use anti-seize during reassembly. ;-)
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:0CM0e.3349$gI5.2487@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Just replace the U-joint. $10 to $20 worth of parts. Bill probably has
> a link to a pictorical of the process. Beware that getting the hub out
> of the steering knuckle can be a RPITA, especially if you live in the
> salted roads country. Shop labor should be under 2 hours unless they
> have problems with the hub.
>
> Herb wrote:
> > Hi ALL,
> >
> > 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> > replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
side
> > at the same time?
> >
> > thank you for any commments
> >
> >

 

Someone had posted a method to easily remove the hub out of the knuckle that
makes sense. I have not tried this trick yet but it should reduce damage
and time making this a 0.5 job taking off the hub instead of 1.5 hours. <g>

Basically you can loosen that center axle nut, remove caliper bolts and
loosen the hub bolts then pry against the wheel and the steering knuckle at
the tie rod. Some people caution doing this with the mag wheels so I
suggest using a steel wheel then. I guess I would also remove the caliper
out of the way while switching to the steel wheel. ;-)

Of course use anti-seize during reassembly. ;-)
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:0CM0e.3349$gI5.2487@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Just replace the U-joint. $10 to $20 worth of parts. Bill probably has
> a link to a pictorical of the process. Beware that getting the hub out
> of the steering knuckle can be a RPITA, especially if you live in the
> salted roads country. Shop labor should be under 2 hours unless they
> have problems with the hub.
>
> Herb wrote:
> > Hi ALL,
> >
> > 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> > replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
side
> > at the same time?
> >
> > thank you for any commments
> >
> >

 

Someone had posted a method to easily remove the hub out of the knuckle that
makes sense. I have not tried this trick yet but it should reduce damage
and time making this a 0.5 job taking off the hub instead of 1.5 hours. <g>

Basically you can loosen that center axle nut, remove caliper bolts and
loosen the hub bolts then pry against the wheel and the steering knuckle at
the tie rod. Some people caution doing this with the mag wheels so I
suggest using a steel wheel then. I guess I would also remove the caliper
out of the way while switching to the steel wheel. ;-)

Of course use anti-seize during reassembly. ;-)
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:0CM0e.3349$gI5.2487@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> Just replace the U-joint. $10 to $20 worth of parts. Bill probably has
> a link to a pictorical of the process. Beware that getting the hub out
> of the steering knuckle can be a RPITA, especially if you live in the
> salted roads country. Shop labor should be under 2 hours unless they
> have problems with the hub.
>
> Herb wrote:
> > Hi ALL,
> >
> > 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> > replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
side
> > at the same time?
> >
> > thank you for any commments
> >
> >

 

You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
decide if you want to tackle the other side.....

The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
for several days if you have that option.

Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
you really want to get in there you could borrow it.

Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
in and be very gentle at the last 6".

When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
apart.

The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
hub loose.

You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
setup and you will just tear the hub apart.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Herb wrote:
>
> Hi ALL,
>
> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both side
> at the same time?
>
> thank you for any commments

 

You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
decide if you want to tackle the other side.....

The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
for several days if you have that option.

Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
you really want to get in there you could borrow it.

Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
in and be very gentle at the last 6".

When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
apart.

The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
hub loose.

You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
setup and you will just tear the hub apart.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Herb wrote:
>
> Hi ALL,
>
> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both side
> at the same time?
>
> thank you for any commments

 

You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can
decide if you want to tackle the other side.....

The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They
rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil
for several days if you have that option.

Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It
is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power
tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway.
I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if
you really want to get in there you could borrow it.

Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back
in and be very gentle at the last 6".

When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone,
the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them
apart.

The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use
to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench,
cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear
and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to
the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the
hub loose.

You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing
setup and you will just tear the hub apart.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Herb wrote:
>
> Hi ALL,
>
> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both side
> at the same time?
>
> thank you for any commments

 

YES replace both of them, and buy the greasable king and grease them every
oil change or sooner if you play in the sand, mud, water or salty roads.

Snow...

"Herb" <haizhong_email@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:h8M0e.10059$JK1.776622@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> Hi ALL,
>
> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> side at the same time?
>
> thank you for any commments
>

 

YES replace both of them, and buy the greasable king and grease them every
oil change or sooner if you play in the sand, mud, water or salty roads.

Snow...

"Herb" <haizhong_email@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:h8M0e.10059$JK1.776622@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> Hi ALL,
>
> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> side at the same time?
>
> thank you for any commments
>

 

YES replace both of them, and buy the greasable king and grease them every
oil change or sooner if you play in the sand, mud, water or salty roads.

Snow...

"Herb" <haizhong_email@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:h8M0e.10059$JK1.776622@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> Hi ALL,
>
> 92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
> replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
> side at the same time?
>
> thank you for any commments
>

 

If one is bad, the other is probably about due for replacement. And once
you have done one side, you will know how to do it in less time. But
doing the first one will test your willpower. All of us that have done
it have some "magic secret" to get the hubs freed up. Mine is to use
some 6 ton jack stands that SAFELY extend to 24". The only good place to
pound is on the very bottom side, you need to get a good swing with a
2-1/2 pound hammer with the head up and the handle straight down. I even
have a 6 pound hammer (sledge hammer with a shortened handle) If you do
it yourself you will do one side, then wait a week to get the courage up
to tackle the other side. Plus you can douse it with pentrating oil
every day for the week inbetween!

Herb wrote:
> thanks, Roy.
> shall i replace both side?
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:0CM0e.3349$gI5.2487@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>Just replace the U-joint. $10 to $20 worth of parts. Bill probably has a
>>link to a pictorical of the process. Beware that getting the hub out of
>>the steering knuckle can be a RPITA, especially if you live in the salted
>>roads country. Shop labor should be under 2 hours unless they have
>>problems with the hub.
>>
>>Herb wrote:
>>
>>>Hi ALL,
>>>
>>>92 XJ Laredo 4.0 auto 4WD . The driver side u-joint is loose. Shall I
>>>replace the whole axle shaft or just the u-joint. Should I replace both
>>>side at the same time?
>>>
>>>thank you for any commments
>
>
>