removing spindle...dana 30 on an 85 cj7
Guest
Posts: n/a
will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
>
> When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
>
>
almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
>
> When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
>
> When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
>
>
almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
>
> When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
>
> When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
>
>
almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
>
> When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
true they are the only design used in heavy equipment. However, I found for
Landys (and Gwag owners had the same problem) that the ball pitted easily
and cost a lot to replace.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071EA2D.8C8998AD@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
> ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
> grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
> covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
> easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
> equipment.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were
as
> > well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...
Landys (and Gwag owners had the same problem) that the ball pitted easily
and cost a lot to replace.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071EA2D.8C8998AD@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
> ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
> grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
> covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
> easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
> equipment.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were
as
> > well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...
Guest
Posts: n/a
true they are the only design used in heavy equipment. However, I found for
Landys (and Gwag owners had the same problem) that the ball pitted easily
and cost a lot to replace.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071EA2D.8C8998AD@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
> ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
> grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
> covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
> easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
> equipment.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were
as
> > well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...
Landys (and Gwag owners had the same problem) that the ball pitted easily
and cost a lot to replace.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071EA2D.8C8998AD@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
> ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
> grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
> covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
> easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
> equipment.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were
as
> > well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...
Guest
Posts: n/a
true they are the only design used in heavy equipment. However, I found for
Landys (and Gwag owners had the same problem) that the ball pitted easily
and cost a lot to replace.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071EA2D.8C8998AD@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
> ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
> grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
> covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
> easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
> equipment.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were
as
> > well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...
Landys (and Gwag owners had the same problem) that the ball pitted easily
and cost a lot to replace.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071EA2D.8C8998AD@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
> ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
> grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
> covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
> easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
> equipment.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were
as
> > well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...
Guest
Posts: n/a
true they are the only design used in heavy equipment. However, I found for
Landys (and Gwag owners had the same problem) that the ball pitted easily
and cost a lot to replace.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071EA2D.8C8998AD@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
> ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
> grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
> covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
> easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
> equipment.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were
as
> > well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...
Landys (and Gwag owners had the same problem) that the ball pitted easily
and cost a lot to replace.
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071EA2D.8C8998AD@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
> ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
> grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
> covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
> easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
> equipment.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were
as
> > well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Don't forget about the set of needle bearings inside the spindle. I had
a fun time trying to get one of mine out, LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
serg wrote:
>
> will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
> almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
>
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >
> > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > > gave!
> > > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> >
> > When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> > inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> > too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
> >
> >
a fun time trying to get one of mine out, LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
serg wrote:
>
> will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
> almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
>
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >
> > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > > gave!
> > > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> >
> > When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> > inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> > too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Don't forget about the set of needle bearings inside the spindle. I had
a fun time trying to get one of mine out, LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
serg wrote:
>
> will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
> almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
>
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >
> > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > > gave!
> > > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> >
> > When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> > inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> > too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
> >
> >
a fun time trying to get one of mine out, LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
serg wrote:
>
> will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
> almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
>
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >
> > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > > gave!
> > > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> >
> > When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> > inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> > too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Don't forget about the set of needle bearings inside the spindle. I had
a fun time trying to get one of mine out, LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
serg wrote:
>
> will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
> almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
>
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >
> > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > > gave!
> > > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> >
> > When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> > inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> > too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
> >
> >
a fun time trying to get one of mine out, LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
serg wrote:
>
> will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
> almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!
>
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >
> > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > > gave!
> > > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> >
> > When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> > inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> > too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
> >
> >


