Dave Milne

So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were as
well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4071E434.623833C2@***.net...
> Early Jeeps have Real knuckles:
> http://www.earlycj5.com/Tech/diskSwap/images/image7.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > Sure it can. Just leave the axle in like he did. The axle bolt holds
> > the bearings in the same way.
> >
> > It puts as much stress on a YJ hub as a CJ one doing it that way.
> >
> > Mike

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Dave,
I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
equipment.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were as
> well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Dave,
I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
equipment.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were as
> well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Dave,
I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
equipment.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were as
> well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Dave,
I never saw a problem with them, only that they wouldn't hold the
ninety weigh oil for many years, but we all just topped it off with
grease. If we had to work on them it was dirty, couldn't help but get
covered with grease, but the squeegee type seal always went in a lot
easier than it looked. It's still the only design used in heavy
equipment.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> So did early Gelandewagens, (and Land Rovers), and what a pain they were as
> well... no seal could keep the dirt out for long ...

serg

yeah, i was careful not to heat it up too much. it didn't come close to
getting red in any areas. i was trying to avoid annealing the knuckle. i'm
going to check them after i clean them up some. thanks for the tip!

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1073cclpmfvbs8c@corp.supernews.com...
> I hope you didn't change the temper of the metal. If you heat it alot,
then
> cool it too slowly, the metal gets soft, if it cools too fast then the
metal
> gets brittle.
>
>
>
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> > :)
> >
> >
> >
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> news:<RV5cc.18562$YY4.404@newssvr27.news.prodigy.c om>...
> > > ok guys-in my quest to rebuild the front axle, i have run across
> > > impossible-to-remove spindles. i have a dana 30 front. i've removed
> > > everything off of it- hubs, brakes, backing plate, pressed-in spindle
> > > bolts. all i should be able to do is remove the spindle off the
knuckle
> and
> > > then remove the axle shafts. thing is, the spindles do no want to
come
> off
> > > the knuckles. any tips? the are rusty all around so i'm assuming they
> are
> > > rusted to the knuckle. i don't know how bad though. thanks to all
for
> any
> > > tips!
>
>

serg

yeah, i was careful not to heat it up too much. it didn't come close to
getting red in any areas. i was trying to avoid annealing the knuckle. i'm
going to check them after i clean them up some. thanks for the tip!

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1073cclpmfvbs8c@corp.supernews.com...
> I hope you didn't change the temper of the metal. If you heat it alot,
then
> cool it too slowly, the metal gets soft, if it cools too fast then the
metal
> gets brittle.
>
>
>
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> > :)
> >
> >
> >
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> news:<RV5cc.18562$YY4.404@newssvr27.news.prodigy.c om>...
> > > ok guys-in my quest to rebuild the front axle, i have run across
> > > impossible-to-remove spindles. i have a dana 30 front. i've removed
> > > everything off of it- hubs, brakes, backing plate, pressed-in spindle
> > > bolts. all i should be able to do is remove the spindle off the
knuckle
> and
> > > then remove the axle shafts. thing is, the spindles do no want to
come
> off
> > > the knuckles. any tips? the are rusty all around so i'm assuming they
> are
> > > rusted to the knuckle. i don't know how bad though. thanks to all
for
> any
> > > tips!
>
>

serg

yeah, i was careful not to heat it up too much. it didn't come close to
getting red in any areas. i was trying to avoid annealing the knuckle. i'm
going to check them after i clean them up some. thanks for the tip!

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1073cclpmfvbs8c@corp.supernews.com...
> I hope you didn't change the temper of the metal. If you heat it alot,
then
> cool it too slowly, the metal gets soft, if it cools too fast then the
metal
> gets brittle.
>
>
>
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> > :)
> >
> >
> >
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> news:<RV5cc.18562$YY4.404@newssvr27.news.prodigy.c om>...
> > > ok guys-in my quest to rebuild the front axle, i have run across
> > > impossible-to-remove spindles. i have a dana 30 front. i've removed
> > > everything off of it- hubs, brakes, backing plate, pressed-in spindle
> > > bolts. all i should be able to do is remove the spindle off the
knuckle
> and
> > > then remove the axle shafts. thing is, the spindles do no want to
come
> off
> > > the knuckles. any tips? the are rusty all around so i'm assuming they
> are
> > > rusted to the knuckle. i don't know how bad though. thanks to all
for
> any
> > > tips!
>
>

serg

yeah, i was careful not to heat it up too much. it didn't come close to
getting red in any areas. i was trying to avoid annealing the knuckle. i'm
going to check them after i clean them up some. thanks for the tip!

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1073cclpmfvbs8c@corp.supernews.com...
> I hope you didn't change the temper of the metal. If you heat it alot,
then
> cool it too slowly, the metal gets soft, if it cools too fast then the
metal
> gets brittle.
>
>
>
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
> > :)
> >
> >
> >
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> news:<RV5cc.18562$YY4.404@newssvr27.news.prodigy.c om>...
> > > ok guys-in my quest to rebuild the front axle, i have run across
> > > impossible-to-remove spindles. i have a dana 30 front. i've removed
> > > everything off of it- hubs, brakes, backing plate, pressed-in spindle
> > > bolts. all i should be able to do is remove the spindle off the
knuckle
> and
> > > then remove the axle shafts. thing is, the spindles do no want to
come
> off
> > > the knuckles. any tips? the are rusty all around so i'm assuming they
> are
> > > rusted to the knuckle. i don't know how bad though. thanks to all
for
> any
> > > tips!
>
>

serg

will do! my plan is to change all the seals, and bearings. they're all
almost 20 years old...and not looking too good. thanks!

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c4sgq20s08@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0404051117.6eebcd41@posting.google.c om...
> > success! last night i just *had* to get at least one of them off so i
> > took a big hammer and a piece of wood and beat the sh*t out of the
> > driver's side spindle. it finally came off!
> > this morning i got to work on the passenger side one. no amount of
> > liquid wrench and beating would get it off. then i remembered the
> > "hot wrench". i took a propane torch and heated up the area behind
> > the spindle for a while. i didn't want to heat the spindle itself,
> > else it would make it MUCH harder (if not impossible) to remove.
> > after heating and beating it for a little while longer, it finally
> > gave!
> > thanks to all for the ideas-u guys rock! and so does the hot wrench...
>
> When you go back together be SURE to replace the outer stub shaft seal
> inside the spindle. Replace the little o-ring like seal on the stub shaft
> too, where it rides up against the needle bearing.
>
>