relay for offroad lights?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a 25
amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
the kc relay lasted 2 years
thanks carmine
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jet wrote:
> >
> > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
jeep
> > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
parts
> > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
my
> > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > thanks carmine
amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
the kc relay lasted 2 years
thanks carmine
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jet wrote:
> >
> > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
jeep
> > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
parts
> > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
my
> > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > thanks carmine
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
"...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
reconnect them.
On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a25
> amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
>
> the kc relay lasted 2 years
>
> thanks carmine
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Jet wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> jeep
> > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> parts
> > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> my
> > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > thanks carmine
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
"...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
reconnect them.
On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a25
> amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
>
> the kc relay lasted 2 years
>
> thanks carmine
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Jet wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> jeep
> > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> parts
> > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> my
> > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > thanks carmine
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
"...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
reconnect them.
On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a25
> amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
>
> the kc relay lasted 2 years
>
> thanks carmine
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Jet wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> jeep
> > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> parts
> > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> my
> > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > thanks carmine
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
soldering!
www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
> "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> reconnect them.
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
>
> > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a 25
> > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> >
> > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> >
> > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jet wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > jeep
> > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > parts
> > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> > my
> > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> >
large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
soldering!
www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
> "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> reconnect them.
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
>
> > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a 25
> > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> >
> > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> >
> > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jet wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > jeep
> > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > parts
> > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> > my
> > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
soldering!
www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
> "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> reconnect them.
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
>
> > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a 25
> > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> >
> > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> >
> > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jet wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > jeep
> > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > parts
> > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> > my
> > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> >
large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
soldering!
www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
> "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> reconnect them.
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
>
> > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a 25
> > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> >
> > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> >
> > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jet wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > jeep
> > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > parts
> > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> > my
> > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
soldering!
www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
> "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> reconnect them.
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
>
> > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a 25
> > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> >
> > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> >
> > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jet wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > jeep
> > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > parts
> > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> > my
> > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> >
large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
soldering!
www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
> "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> reconnect them.
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
>
> > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a 25
> > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess their
> > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> >
> > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> >
> > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.htm
> > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Jet wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > jeep
> > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > parts
> > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using? also
> > my
> > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > thanks carmine
> >
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
Good article on corrosion/oxidation proof wiring techniques:
http://www.sailnet.com/collections/a...cleid=brigno00
01%20%20&tfr=fp
ENJOY !!!!!
In article <290120042149455567%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
> large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
> high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
> connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
> draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
> current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
>
> BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
> grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
> automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
> damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
>
> Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
> vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
> coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
> soldering!
> www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
>
> In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
> Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> > "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> > It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> > through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> > connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> > causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> > the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> > connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> > copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> > reconnect them.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> >
> > > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a
> > > 25
> > > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess
> > > their
> > > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> > >
> > > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> > >
> > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > >
> > > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...bosch/relay.ht
> > > > m
> > > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Jet wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > > jeep
> > > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > > parts
> > > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using?
> > > > > also
> > > my
> > > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > >
http://www.sailnet.com/collections/a...cleid=brigno00
01%20%20&tfr=fp
ENJOY !!!!!
In article <290120042149455567%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
> large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
> high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
> connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
> draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
> current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
>
> BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
> grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
> automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
> damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
>
> Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
> vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
> coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
> soldering!
> www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
>
> In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
> Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> > "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> > It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> > through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> > connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> > causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> > the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> > connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> > copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> > reconnect them.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> >
> > > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a
> > > 25
> > > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess
> > > their
> > > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> > >
> > > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> > >
> > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > >
> > > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...bosch/relay.ht
> > > > m
> > > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Jet wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > > jeep
> > > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > > parts
> > > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using?
> > > > > also
> > > my
> > > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
Good article on corrosion/oxidation proof wiring techniques:
http://www.sailnet.com/collections/a...cleid=brigno00
01%20%20&tfr=fp
ENJOY !!!!!
In article <290120042149455567%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
> large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
> high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
> connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
> draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
> current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
>
> BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
> grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
> automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
> damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
>
> Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
> vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
> coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
> soldering!
> www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
>
> In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
> Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> > "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> > It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> > through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> > connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> > causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> > the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> > connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> > copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> > reconnect them.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> >
> > > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a
> > > 25
> > > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess
> > > their
> > > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> > >
> > > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> > >
> > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > >
> > > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...bosch/relay.ht
> > > > m
> > > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Jet wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > > jeep
> > > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > > parts
> > > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using?
> > > > > also
> > > my
> > > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > >
http://www.sailnet.com/collections/a...cleid=brigno00
01%20%20&tfr=fp
ENJOY !!!!!
In article <290120042149455567%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
> large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
> high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
> connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
> draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
> current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
>
> BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
> grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
> automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
> damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
>
> Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
> vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
> coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
> soldering!
> www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
>
> In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
> Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> > "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> > It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> > through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> > connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> > causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> > the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> > connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> > copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> > reconnect them.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> >
> > > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a
> > > 25
> > > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess
> > > their
> > > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> > >
> > > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> > >
> > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > >
> > > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...bosch/relay.ht
> > > > m
> > > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Jet wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > > jeep
> > > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > > parts
> > > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using?
> > > > > also
> > > my
> > > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: relay for offroad lights?
Good article on corrosion/oxidation proof wiring techniques:
http://www.sailnet.com/collections/a...cleid=brigno00
01%20%20&tfr=fp
ENJOY !!!!!
In article <290120042149455567%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
> large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
> high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
> connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
> draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
> current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
>
> BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
> grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
> automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
> damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
>
> Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
> vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
> coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
> soldering!
> www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
>
> In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
> Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> > "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> > It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> > through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> > connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> > causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> > the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> > connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> > copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> > reconnect them.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> >
> > > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a
> > > 25
> > > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess
> > > their
> > > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> > >
> > > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> > >
> > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > >
> > > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...bosch/relay.ht
> > > > m
> > > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Jet wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > > jeep
> > > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > > parts
> > > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using?
> > > > > also
> > > my
> > > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > >
http://www.sailnet.com/collections/a...cleid=brigno00
01%20%20&tfr=fp
ENJOY !!!!!
In article <290120042149455567%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> NEVER EVER use 'automotive' grade connectors on **anything** that has
> large current draw .... they will ALWAYS corrode and eventually give
> high resistance, etc. then fail !!!!!!! When the **crappy** automotive
> connectors develop high resistance due to corrosion, etc. the current
> draw goes UP when the voltage goes DOWN due to the resistance, when the
> current goes UP the plastic componentry softens, etc.
>
> BETTER is to use pre-tinned 'marine grade' crimp connectors and marine
> grade pre-tinned wire. .... use on EVERYTHING, dont use the crappy
> automotive grade crimp connectors if you dont want to replace every
> damn year because of oxidation/corrosion.
>
> Use marine grade crimp connectors and wire .... and then seal with
> vinyl heat shrink tube with a bit of dielectric grease inside and then
> coat with liquid vinyl (liquid tape). Dont even think about
> soldering!
> www.westmarine.com. etc. - bring your fatted wallet.
>
> In article <Pine.NEB.4.58.0401291817460.12666@panix1.panix.co m>, Lee
> Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:
>
> > "...because one of the terminals corroded off." -- there's your problem.
> > It wasn't that the relay melted because you were pulling too much current
> > through it, it was that the terminals you connected to it were rusty. A
> > connection that isn't bright and clean will have resistance, resistance
> > causes heat, heat encourages more corrosion. The _connection_ got hot and
> > the heat melted the plastic base of the relay. If you reuse those
> > connectors it will fail again. Cut the wires back until you have bright
> > copper, put on new terminals and pack them with bulb grease before you
> > reconnect them.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 29 Jan 2004, Jet wrote:
> >
> > > I had 2 fuses on the lights about 4 inches away from the battery. i had a
> > > 25
> > > amp on the light side and a 3 amp on the switch side the 25 amp fuse was
> > > blown but it didn't blow until the relay was burt to a crisp. I guess
> > > their
> > > 30 amp rating was a little off. I will try running 2 relays. all the wires
> > > that I used was supplied by k.c. in the kit with the lights. the original
> > > k.c. relay in the kit looked identical to the one I put in there the only
> > > reason I changed it is because one of the terminals corroded off.
> > >
> > > the kc relay lasted 2 years
> > >
> > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:4018569B.92A38131@***.net...
> > > > Where was your fuse? Maybe increase the size of the wire from the
> > > > battery, so resistance heat won't be your problem:
> > > > http://www.kchilites.com/faq.html
> > > >
> > > > http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...bosch/relay.ht
> > > > m
> > > > Maybe, use two Japanese relays, one for each light.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > Jet wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a set of 150 watt 385,000 candle power KC offroad lights on my
> > > jeep
> > > > > and I melted a 30 amp relay. it was a $6 relay I bought at the auto
> > > parts
> > > > > store that the guy insisted would work. so what you guys are using?
> > > > > also
> > > my
> > > > > brother in-law has 4 of same lights on his off roader and is also having
> > > > > problems finding a relay that works on the 4 lights. any suggestions?
> > > > > thanks carmine
> > >
> > >
> > >