viriiman

Very true, never though about the mud and rocks.

I guess I was looking into those because the rotors (Stock) that I have on
there now didn't seem to last too long, but I guess they did.

Thanks
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:0Wi2b.2$Kt6.1@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> This is partially true, but it depends on whether or not the drilling is
> done before or after the stress relieving process. Most drilled rotors are
> drilled after, and that is the problem. I sell racing brake components for
a
> local company that manufactures 1000's of brake rotors, including some for
> Winston Cup racing. the funny thing to note here is that most of the
rotors
> I sell are to short track oval racers who do heavy braking, and guess
what.
> No drilled or slotted rotors. They use a heavy vented rotor. The best
> scenario for a typical Jeep would be a countersunk relief rotor. This is
> basically a standard rotor that is cross drilled, but the drill depth is
> just enough for the point of the drill to penetrate until the "hole is the
> same size as the drill used. This is the best option if you are looking
for
> some type of drilled or slotted rotor to clean the pads and cool the rotor
a
> bit. But in all honesty at the speeds that most Jeeps are using repeated
> braking, the cooling requirements are about nil. there may be some benefit
> to prevent the pads from glazing, but the proper pads would all but
> eliminate that. Most stock rotors will fail if cross drilled due to the
> stresses added to the rotor unless they are relived afterwards. then they
> will more than likely need to be resurfaced as well. All in all I agree
with
> Jerry here. The drilled rotors are just not necessary for an off road
> vehicle unless it is raced, and even then it is questionable. Oh and
another
> thought. Wouldn't it be nice for your brake pads to have to deal with mud,
> sand and small rocks plugging all those holes up as well?
>
> Chris
>
> "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@mecox.net> wrote in message
> news:TTh2b.10435$Qy4.6435@fed1read05...
> > Drilled rotors are for race cars where it's no issue to replace the
rotors
> > at regular intervals since cross-drilled rotors are well known for
> cracking
> > where they are drilled. Besides, unless you're racing your Jeep and
doing
> > repeated high-speed braking, they're a ridiculous upgrade that in my
> > personal opinion is unneeded on a Jeep.
> >
> > Jerry
> > --
> > Jerry Bransford
> > To email, remove 'me' from my email address
> > KC6TAY, PP-ASEL
> > See the Geezer Jeep at
> > http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
> >
> > "viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:voCcnWCVN-n0ENSiXTWJhw@comcast.com...
> > > So I want cross drilled?
> > > "Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
> > > news:3buckvobuek45q7ddeknghan87551gdjb4@4ax.com...
> > > > you got it the wrong way round :-)
> > > >
> > > > Cross drill dissipate heat better under extreme conditions, slotted
> > > > "tear up" / deglaze the pad.
> > > >
> > > > Dave
> > > >
> > > > On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 15:54:42 -0400, "viriiman"
> > > > <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >I had posted this question a while ago, but I just wanted to be
sure.
> > > > >
> > > > >Need new rotors. I'm at 68,000 and have had them cut once already.
I
> > know
> > > > >that the factory rotors aren't the best. The question I have is
what
> > are
> > > the
> > > > >best rotors I can get that will resist warping?
> > > > >
> > > > >The last time I asked I was told that regular rotors were fine, but
I
> > > don't
> > > > >recall brands.
> > > > >
> > > > >The first option is cross drilled rotors.
> > > > >http://www.rocky-road.com/xjrotor.html
> > > > >I know that they're supposed to reduce heat and brake fade, but I
> > > remember
> > > > >being told that they can really tear up the brake pads, so the
> regular
> > > > >rotors were better.
> > > > >
> > > > >The other option that I found since then is slotted rotors.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>http://www.truckperformance.com/prod...rder=A&urlsubc
> > >
> >
>
ategory=Brakes&productcategory=Rotors%2FPads&sf1=J EEP&sf2=2001&sf3=Cherokee&
> > > sf4=Brake+Rotors
> > > > >They're supposed to be better then regular rotors and help
dissipate
> > heat
> > > > >better then regular rotors, but I don't have to worry about tearing
> up
> > > the
> > > > >brake pads.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >Soooo, on that note, which do I want? If it's going to be regular
> > rotors,
> > > > >just please let me know where I can get 'em in NJ
> > > > >
> > > > >TIA
> > > > >
> > > > >Hank
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > Dave Milne, Scotland
> > > > '99 TJ Sahara
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

viriiman

Not racing the jeep anytime soon.

Just though I would've wanted them because these rotors seemed to warp
rather quickly between having them cut and now.

Hank

viriiman

Not racing the jeep anytime soon.

Just though I would've wanted them because these rotors seemed to warp
rather quickly between having them cut and now.

Hank

Jerry Bransford

"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:39edncOzV9N5t9eiU-KYgg@comcast.com...
> Not racing the jeep anytime soon.
>
> Just though I would've wanted them because these rotors seemed to warp
> rather quickly between having them cut and now.

Stop running the lightweight factory composite rotors and go to a good
quality solid cast rotor, you won't have any more warping. Be sure too to
hand-torque all the lugnuts evenly (all at the same tightness, take your
pick between 85 and 110 ft-lbs.) which may help reduce rotor warping too.

Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
KC6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

"viriiman" <addresschanged@NOSPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:39edncOzV9N5t9eiU-KYgg@comcast.com...
> Not racing the jeep anytime soon.
>
> Just though I would've wanted them because these rotors seemed to warp
> rather quickly between having them cut and now.

Stop running the lightweight factory composite rotors and go to a good
quality solid cast rotor, you won't have any more warping. Be sure too to
hand-torque all the lugnuts evenly (all at the same tightness, take your
pick between 85 and 110 ft-lbs.) which may help reduce rotor warping too.

Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
KC6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/