I use kite string.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
> Not one drip yet. :)
>
> cept mebby me.
>
> I can be a real drip.
>
> --
> DougW

 

DougW wrote:
>
> Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> > That really varies, but about 15 to 25 is normal.
> >
> > The washer makes a big difference. You are 'supposed' to use a new
> > copper crush washer each time and they need about 25 ft lb to compress.
>
> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
> Not one drip yet. :)
>
> cept mebby me.
>
> I can be a real drip.
>
> --
> DougW

Well you know, I decided I wanted a dry engine, LOL! Ya right! But it
is... and I use a new one most oil changes just because....

I have a pack of them in my kit box right now.

I have done literally thousands of oil changes professionally and have
never had more than a couple come back with a drip and those were in
garages that 'didn't' change the ring with the oil change.

Most places I worked insisted on a new ring 'every' time like the makers
insist on so the oil change is warranty valid, let alone liability if
the old ring finally splits.

That is probably the most important washer in the whole engine!

Go too tight or use it too many times and it up and splits on you and
the oil all pisses out.

Yours is now 11 years old and is copper. Copper does stretch and
compress to a certain extent, but when it gets old it can finally just
stress/stretch crack.

Then if you are unlucky all the oil blows out and you kill the engine.

Washers are freaking cheap insurance, they sell them in 1 years supply
or 4 packs even........

There is a thread over on rec.autos.tech on the same thing and some
Volvo owners among others said the same as you.

I looked up their vehicles, actually I googled oil crush washers and
Volvo came up and Volvo insists on a new ring every time for their
vehicles, so they have voided their warranty if they get caught. Or
just cooked the engine if out of warranty....

Sure you save 15 cents on an oil change, but........

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

DougW wrote:
>
> Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> > That really varies, but about 15 to 25 is normal.
> >
> > The washer makes a big difference. You are 'supposed' to use a new
> > copper crush washer each time and they need about 25 ft lb to compress.
>
> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
> Not one drip yet. :)
>
> cept mebby me.
>
> I can be a real drip.
>
> --
> DougW

Well you know, I decided I wanted a dry engine, LOL! Ya right! But it
is... and I use a new one most oil changes just because....

I have a pack of them in my kit box right now.

I have done literally thousands of oil changes professionally and have
never had more than a couple come back with a drip and those were in
garages that 'didn't' change the ring with the oil change.

Most places I worked insisted on a new ring 'every' time like the makers
insist on so the oil change is warranty valid, let alone liability if
the old ring finally splits.

That is probably the most important washer in the whole engine!

Go too tight or use it too many times and it up and splits on you and
the oil all pisses out.

Yours is now 11 years old and is copper. Copper does stretch and
compress to a certain extent, but when it gets old it can finally just
stress/stretch crack.

Then if you are unlucky all the oil blows out and you kill the engine.

Washers are freaking cheap insurance, they sell them in 1 years supply
or 4 packs even........

There is a thread over on rec.autos.tech on the same thing and some
Volvo owners among others said the same as you.

I looked up their vehicles, actually I googled oil crush washers and
Volvo came up and Volvo insists on a new ring every time for their
vehicles, so they have voided their warranty if they get caught. Or
just cooked the engine if out of warranty....

Sure you save 15 cents on an oil change, but........

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

DougW wrote:
>
> Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> > That really varies, but about 15 to 25 is normal.
> >
> > The washer makes a big difference. You are 'supposed' to use a new
> > copper crush washer each time and they need about 25 ft lb to compress.
>
> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
> Not one drip yet. :)
>
> cept mebby me.
>
> I can be a real drip.
>
> --
> DougW

Well you know, I decided I wanted a dry engine, LOL! Ya right! But it
is... and I use a new one most oil changes just because....

I have a pack of them in my kit box right now.

I have done literally thousands of oil changes professionally and have
never had more than a couple come back with a drip and those were in
garages that 'didn't' change the ring with the oil change.

Most places I worked insisted on a new ring 'every' time like the makers
insist on so the oil change is warranty valid, let alone liability if
the old ring finally splits.

That is probably the most important washer in the whole engine!

Go too tight or use it too many times and it up and splits on you and
the oil all pisses out.

Yours is now 11 years old and is copper. Copper does stretch and
compress to a certain extent, but when it gets old it can finally just
stress/stretch crack.

Then if you are unlucky all the oil blows out and you kill the engine.

Washers are freaking cheap insurance, they sell them in 1 years supply
or 4 packs even........

There is a thread over on rec.autos.tech on the same thing and some
Volvo owners among others said the same as you.

I looked up their vehicles, actually I googled oil crush washers and
Volvo came up and Volvo insists on a new ring every time for their
vehicles, so they have voided their warranty if they get caught. Or
just cooked the engine if out of warranty....

Sure you save 15 cents on an oil change, but........

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

DougW wrote:
>
> Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> > That really varies, but about 15 to 25 is normal.
> >
> > The washer makes a big difference. You are 'supposed' to use a new
> > copper crush washer each time and they need about 25 ft lb to compress.
>
> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
> Not one drip yet. :)
>
> cept mebby me.
>
> I can be a real drip.
>
> --
> DougW

Well you know, I decided I wanted a dry engine, LOL! Ya right! But it
is... and I use a new one most oil changes just because....

I have a pack of them in my kit box right now.

I have done literally thousands of oil changes professionally and have
never had more than a couple come back with a drip and those were in
garages that 'didn't' change the ring with the oil change.

Most places I worked insisted on a new ring 'every' time like the makers
insist on so the oil change is warranty valid, let alone liability if
the old ring finally splits.

That is probably the most important washer in the whole engine!

Go too tight or use it too many times and it up and splits on you and
the oil all pisses out.

Yours is now 11 years old and is copper. Copper does stretch and
compress to a certain extent, but when it gets old it can finally just
stress/stretch crack.

Then if you are unlucky all the oil blows out and you kill the engine.

Washers are freaking cheap insurance, they sell them in 1 years supply
or 4 packs even........

There is a thread over on rec.autos.tech on the same thing and some
Volvo owners among others said the same as you.

I looked up their vehicles, actually I googled oil crush washers and
Volvo came up and Volvo insists on a new ring every time for their
vehicles, so they have voided their warranty if they get caught. Or
just cooked the engine if out of warranty....

Sure you save 15 cents on an oil change, but........

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>>
>> Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
>>> That really varies, but about 15 to 25 is normal.
>>>
>>> The washer makes a big difference. You are 'supposed' to use a new
>>> copper crush washer each time and they need about 25 ft lb to compress.
>>
>> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
>> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
>> Not one drip yet. :)

> Well you know, I decided I wanted a dry engine, LOL! Ya right! But it
> is... and I use a new one most oil changes just because....

> That is probably the most important washer in the whole engine!

Yep.

> Go too tight or use it too many times and it up and splits on you and
> the oil all pisses out.

So far no splits, but you are correct, I should replace it at the next
change. Easy enough to order a few with the next parts delivery.

> Yours is now 11 years old and is copper. Copper does stretch and
> compress to a certain extent, but when it gets old it can finally just
> stress/stretch crack.

Some of it is copper but the surround appears to be more of a brown
rubber.

> Then if you are unlucky all the oil blows out and you kill the engine.

Only if the bolt falls out. On mine the threads alone will hold back
hot oil. Don't get any drips till I turn that last little bit on the bolt.

I'll throw a new one on next time, couldn't hurt. Just finished replumbing
most of the hoses and using a little permatex gasket maker to fix those hard
rubber hoseends that tend to break loose.



--
DougW

 

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>>
>> Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
>>> That really varies, but about 15 to 25 is normal.
>>>
>>> The washer makes a big difference. You are 'supposed' to use a new
>>> copper crush washer each time and they need about 25 ft lb to compress.
>>
>> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
>> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
>> Not one drip yet. :)

> Well you know, I decided I wanted a dry engine, LOL! Ya right! But it
> is... and I use a new one most oil changes just because....

> That is probably the most important washer in the whole engine!

Yep.

> Go too tight or use it too many times and it up and splits on you and
> the oil all pisses out.

So far no splits, but you are correct, I should replace it at the next
change. Easy enough to order a few with the next parts delivery.

> Yours is now 11 years old and is copper. Copper does stretch and
> compress to a certain extent, but when it gets old it can finally just
> stress/stretch crack.

Some of it is copper but the surround appears to be more of a brown
rubber.

> Then if you are unlucky all the oil blows out and you kill the engine.

Only if the bolt falls out. On mine the threads alone will hold back
hot oil. Don't get any drips till I turn that last little bit on the bolt.

I'll throw a new one on next time, couldn't hurt. Just finished replumbing
most of the hoses and using a little permatex gasket maker to fix those hard
rubber hoseends that tend to break loose.



--
DougW

 

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>>
>> Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
>>> That really varies, but about 15 to 25 is normal.
>>>
>>> The washer makes a big difference. You are 'supposed' to use a new
>>> copper crush washer each time and they need about 25 ft lb to compress.
>>
>> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
>> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
>> Not one drip yet. :)

> Well you know, I decided I wanted a dry engine, LOL! Ya right! But it
> is... and I use a new one most oil changes just because....

> That is probably the most important washer in the whole engine!

Yep.

> Go too tight or use it too many times and it up and splits on you and
> the oil all pisses out.

So far no splits, but you are correct, I should replace it at the next
change. Easy enough to order a few with the next parts delivery.

> Yours is now 11 years old and is copper. Copper does stretch and
> compress to a certain extent, but when it gets old it can finally just
> stress/stretch crack.

Some of it is copper but the surround appears to be more of a brown
rubber.

> Then if you are unlucky all the oil blows out and you kill the engine.

Only if the bolt falls out. On mine the threads alone will hold back
hot oil. Don't get any drips till I turn that last little bit on the bolt.

I'll throw a new one on next time, couldn't hurt. Just finished replumbing
most of the hoses and using a little permatex gasket maker to fix those hard
rubber hoseends that tend to break loose.



--
DougW

 

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>>
>> Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
>>> That really varies, but about 15 to 25 is normal.
>>>
>>> The washer makes a big difference. You are 'supposed' to use a new
>>> copper crush washer each time and they need about 25 ft lb to compress.
>>
>> I like that. Exactly what it says in my ZJ book and guess what.
>> Been using the same bolt since 93 at about 3-4 oil changes per year.
>> Not one drip yet. :)

> Well you know, I decided I wanted a dry engine, LOL! Ya right! But it
> is... and I use a new one most oil changes just because....

> That is probably the most important washer in the whole engine!

Yep.

> Go too tight or use it too many times and it up and splits on you and
> the oil all pisses out.

So far no splits, but you are correct, I should replace it at the next
change. Easy enough to order a few with the next parts delivery.

> Yours is now 11 years old and is copper. Copper does stretch and
> compress to a certain extent, but when it gets old it can finally just
> stress/stretch crack.

Some of it is copper but the surround appears to be more of a brown
rubber.

> Then if you are unlucky all the oil blows out and you kill the engine.

Only if the bolt falls out. On mine the threads alone will hold back
hot oil. Don't get any drips till I turn that last little bit on the bolt.

I'll throw a new one on next time, couldn't hurt. Just finished replumbing
most of the hoses and using a little permatex gasket maker to fix those hard
rubber hoseends that tend to break loose.



--
DougW