Rear Main Seal Question
12-17-2004, 12:06 AM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
Like the old Fram commercial, pay me now, or pay them later.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Patrick wrote:
>
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Patrick wrote:
>
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
12-17-2004, 12:06 AM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
Like the old Fram commercial, pay me now, or pay them later.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Patrick wrote:
>
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Patrick wrote:
>
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
12-17-2004, 12:06 AM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
Like the old Fram commercial, pay me now, or pay them later.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Patrick wrote:
>
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Patrick wrote:
>
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
12-17-2004, 12:43 AM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:19:01 -0600, Ervin Charles wrote:
> I sure wish you guys were right about the valve cover gasket, but I
> replaced it a couple of months ago. This engine has 188,000 miles on it
> and it's definitely the rear main...flowing like the Exxon Valdez. Do I
> absolutely have to pull the tranny or can I snake it in with the trans
> in place? Thanks for your replies!
> Charles
My Cherokee had 296,000 miles on it when I changed the rear main seal. It
was hard and brittle when removed. I used a piece of brass (gas) welding
rod to get old seal to break free from its bond to the block.
I put Vasaline on the new seal to slide the upper half in above crank and
it slid in easier than I thought it would. The pan removal was the
hardest part of the job. I disconnected the drag link at the bellcrank on
the steering box to get enough steer linkage clearance to get pan out
under convertor housing. I removed the starter and pried on ring gear to
rotate crankshaft and pushed seal around the crankshaft with my fingers to
get upper seal slid in. I didn't remove the transmission.
Replacing the seal stopped the oil leak. I too had already went the valve
cover gasket route.
It was real warm out when I replaced mine, but I'm in Fla. Hope it's not
too cold where your at or you have a warm place to work.
I'll hit 300,000 mi. before the weekend.
Good luck,
Rick
> I sure wish you guys were right about the valve cover gasket, but I
> replaced it a couple of months ago. This engine has 188,000 miles on it
> and it's definitely the rear main...flowing like the Exxon Valdez. Do I
> absolutely have to pull the tranny or can I snake it in with the trans
> in place? Thanks for your replies!
> Charles
My Cherokee had 296,000 miles on it when I changed the rear main seal. It
was hard and brittle when removed. I used a piece of brass (gas) welding
rod to get old seal to break free from its bond to the block.
I put Vasaline on the new seal to slide the upper half in above crank and
it slid in easier than I thought it would. The pan removal was the
hardest part of the job. I disconnected the drag link at the bellcrank on
the steering box to get enough steer linkage clearance to get pan out
under convertor housing. I removed the starter and pried on ring gear to
rotate crankshaft and pushed seal around the crankshaft with my fingers to
get upper seal slid in. I didn't remove the transmission.
Replacing the seal stopped the oil leak. I too had already went the valve
cover gasket route.
It was real warm out when I replaced mine, but I'm in Fla. Hope it's not
too cold where your at or you have a warm place to work.
I'll hit 300,000 mi. before the weekend.
Good luck,
Rick
12-17-2004, 12:43 AM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:19:01 -0600, Ervin Charles wrote:
> I sure wish you guys were right about the valve cover gasket, but I
> replaced it a couple of months ago. This engine has 188,000 miles on it
> and it's definitely the rear main...flowing like the Exxon Valdez. Do I
> absolutely have to pull the tranny or can I snake it in with the trans
> in place? Thanks for your replies!
> Charles
My Cherokee had 296,000 miles on it when I changed the rear main seal. It
was hard and brittle when removed. I used a piece of brass (gas) welding
rod to get old seal to break free from its bond to the block.
I put Vasaline on the new seal to slide the upper half in above crank and
it slid in easier than I thought it would. The pan removal was the
hardest part of the job. I disconnected the drag link at the bellcrank on
the steering box to get enough steer linkage clearance to get pan out
under convertor housing. I removed the starter and pried on ring gear to
rotate crankshaft and pushed seal around the crankshaft with my fingers to
get upper seal slid in. I didn't remove the transmission.
Replacing the seal stopped the oil leak. I too had already went the valve
cover gasket route.
It was real warm out when I replaced mine, but I'm in Fla. Hope it's not
too cold where your at or you have a warm place to work.
I'll hit 300,000 mi. before the weekend.
Good luck,
Rick
> I sure wish you guys were right about the valve cover gasket, but I
> replaced it a couple of months ago. This engine has 188,000 miles on it
> and it's definitely the rear main...flowing like the Exxon Valdez. Do I
> absolutely have to pull the tranny or can I snake it in with the trans
> in place? Thanks for your replies!
> Charles
My Cherokee had 296,000 miles on it when I changed the rear main seal. It
was hard and brittle when removed. I used a piece of brass (gas) welding
rod to get old seal to break free from its bond to the block.
I put Vasaline on the new seal to slide the upper half in above crank and
it slid in easier than I thought it would. The pan removal was the
hardest part of the job. I disconnected the drag link at the bellcrank on
the steering box to get enough steer linkage clearance to get pan out
under convertor housing. I removed the starter and pried on ring gear to
rotate crankshaft and pushed seal around the crankshaft with my fingers to
get upper seal slid in. I didn't remove the transmission.
Replacing the seal stopped the oil leak. I too had already went the valve
cover gasket route.
It was real warm out when I replaced mine, but I'm in Fla. Hope it's not
too cold where your at or you have a warm place to work.
I'll hit 300,000 mi. before the weekend.
Good luck,
Rick
12-17-2004, 12:43 AM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:19:01 -0600, Ervin Charles wrote:
> I sure wish you guys were right about the valve cover gasket, but I
> replaced it a couple of months ago. This engine has 188,000 miles on it
> and it's definitely the rear main...flowing like the Exxon Valdez. Do I
> absolutely have to pull the tranny or can I snake it in with the trans
> in place? Thanks for your replies!
> Charles
My Cherokee had 296,000 miles on it when I changed the rear main seal. It
was hard and brittle when removed. I used a piece of brass (gas) welding
rod to get old seal to break free from its bond to the block.
I put Vasaline on the new seal to slide the upper half in above crank and
it slid in easier than I thought it would. The pan removal was the
hardest part of the job. I disconnected the drag link at the bellcrank on
the steering box to get enough steer linkage clearance to get pan out
under convertor housing. I removed the starter and pried on ring gear to
rotate crankshaft and pushed seal around the crankshaft with my fingers to
get upper seal slid in. I didn't remove the transmission.
Replacing the seal stopped the oil leak. I too had already went the valve
cover gasket route.
It was real warm out when I replaced mine, but I'm in Fla. Hope it's not
too cold where your at or you have a warm place to work.
I'll hit 300,000 mi. before the weekend.
Good luck,
Rick
> I sure wish you guys were right about the valve cover gasket, but I
> replaced it a couple of months ago. This engine has 188,000 miles on it
> and it's definitely the rear main...flowing like the Exxon Valdez. Do I
> absolutely have to pull the tranny or can I snake it in with the trans
> in place? Thanks for your replies!
> Charles
My Cherokee had 296,000 miles on it when I changed the rear main seal. It
was hard and brittle when removed. I used a piece of brass (gas) welding
rod to get old seal to break free from its bond to the block.
I put Vasaline on the new seal to slide the upper half in above crank and
it slid in easier than I thought it would. The pan removal was the
hardest part of the job. I disconnected the drag link at the bellcrank on
the steering box to get enough steer linkage clearance to get pan out
under convertor housing. I removed the starter and pried on ring gear to
rotate crankshaft and pushed seal around the crankshaft with my fingers to
get upper seal slid in. I didn't remove the transmission.
Replacing the seal stopped the oil leak. I too had already went the valve
cover gasket route.
It was real warm out when I replaced mine, but I'm in Fla. Hope it's not
too cold where your at or you have a warm place to work.
I'll hit 300,000 mi. before the weekend.
Good luck,
Rick
12-17-2004, 07:25 AM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
368, 000 plus Km's, no oil leaks after valve cover change 2 years ago. no
oil burn. slight knock on start up but after 368,000 km's I figure she can
moan abit.
Snow...
"Patrick" <pat.guarnaccia@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Aatwd.17643$pb.1150061@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my
I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
> 10s4km71hr6342f@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:32f11hF3n9r4iU1@individual.net...
> >>> It's a two piece seal. It is relatively easy to replace, but seldom
> >>> fails.
> >>
> >> Is the 304 the same? 2 piece?
> >>
> >
> >
> > The rear main seal consists of a two-piece neoprene single lip seal.
> > Correct installation of the seal is required for leak-free engine
> > operation.
> >
> > Drain the oil
> > Remove starter motor
> > Remove pan
> > Remove pan side gaskets
> > Remove all sludge and throughly clean gasket surfaces
> > Remove rear main bearing cap
> > Remove and discard lower seal
> > Clean bearing cal throroughly
> > Loosen remaining bearing caps
> > Use brass drift and hammer to remove upper half of seal.
> >
> >
> > This is from my FSM for 1981 Jeep V8 engines. It seems to apply to both
> > the 304 and the 360.
> >
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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oil burn. slight knock on start up but after 368,000 km's I figure she can
moan abit.
Snow...
"Patrick" <pat.guarnaccia@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Aatwd.17643$pb.1150061@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my
I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
> 10s4km71hr6342f@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:32f11hF3n9r4iU1@individual.net...
> >>> It's a two piece seal. It is relatively easy to replace, but seldom
> >>> fails.
> >>
> >> Is the 304 the same? 2 piece?
> >>
> >
> >
> > The rear main seal consists of a two-piece neoprene single lip seal.
> > Correct installation of the seal is required for leak-free engine
> > operation.
> >
> > Drain the oil
> > Remove starter motor
> > Remove pan
> > Remove pan side gaskets
> > Remove all sludge and throughly clean gasket surfaces
> > Remove rear main bearing cap
> > Remove and discard lower seal
> > Clean bearing cal throroughly
> > Loosen remaining bearing caps
> > Use brass drift and hammer to remove upper half of seal.
> >
> >
> > This is from my FSM for 1981 Jeep V8 engines. It seems to apply to both
> > the 304 and the 360.
> >
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.809 / Virus Database: 551 - Release Date: 09/12/2004
12-17-2004, 07:25 AM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
368, 000 plus Km's, no oil leaks after valve cover change 2 years ago. no
oil burn. slight knock on start up but after 368,000 km's I figure she can
moan abit.
Snow...
"Patrick" <pat.guarnaccia@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Aatwd.17643$pb.1150061@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my
I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
> 10s4km71hr6342f@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:32f11hF3n9r4iU1@individual.net...
> >>> It's a two piece seal. It is relatively easy to replace, but seldom
> >>> fails.
> >>
> >> Is the 304 the same? 2 piece?
> >>
> >
> >
> > The rear main seal consists of a two-piece neoprene single lip seal.
> > Correct installation of the seal is required for leak-free engine
> > operation.
> >
> > Drain the oil
> > Remove starter motor
> > Remove pan
> > Remove pan side gaskets
> > Remove all sludge and throughly clean gasket surfaces
> > Remove rear main bearing cap
> > Remove and discard lower seal
> > Clean bearing cal throroughly
> > Loosen remaining bearing caps
> > Use brass drift and hammer to remove upper half of seal.
> >
> >
> > This is from my FSM for 1981 Jeep V8 engines. It seems to apply to both
> > the 304 and the 360.
> >
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.809 / Virus Database: 551 - Release Date: 09/12/2004
oil burn. slight knock on start up but after 368,000 km's I figure she can
moan abit.
Snow...
"Patrick" <pat.guarnaccia@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Aatwd.17643$pb.1150061@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my
I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
> 10s4km71hr6342f@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:32f11hF3n9r4iU1@individual.net...
> >>> It's a two piece seal. It is relatively easy to replace, but seldom
> >>> fails.
> >>
> >> Is the 304 the same? 2 piece?
> >>
> >
> >
> > The rear main seal consists of a two-piece neoprene single lip seal.
> > Correct installation of the seal is required for leak-free engine
> > operation.
> >
> > Drain the oil
> > Remove starter motor
> > Remove pan
> > Remove pan side gaskets
> > Remove all sludge and throughly clean gasket surfaces
> > Remove rear main bearing cap
> > Remove and discard lower seal
> > Clean bearing cal throroughly
> > Loosen remaining bearing caps
> > Use brass drift and hammer to remove upper half of seal.
> >
> >
> > This is from my FSM for 1981 Jeep V8 engines. It seems to apply to both
> > the 304 and the 360.
> >
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.809 / Virus Database: 551 - Release Date: 09/12/2004
12-17-2004, 07:25 AM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
368, 000 plus Km's, no oil leaks after valve cover change 2 years ago. no
oil burn. slight knock on start up but after 368,000 km's I figure she can
moan abit.
Snow...
"Patrick" <pat.guarnaccia@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Aatwd.17643$pb.1150061@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my
I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
> 10s4km71hr6342f@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:32f11hF3n9r4iU1@individual.net...
> >>> It's a two piece seal. It is relatively easy to replace, but seldom
> >>> fails.
> >>
> >> Is the 304 the same? 2 piece?
> >>
> >
> >
> > The rear main seal consists of a two-piece neoprene single lip seal.
> > Correct installation of the seal is required for leak-free engine
> > operation.
> >
> > Drain the oil
> > Remove starter motor
> > Remove pan
> > Remove pan side gaskets
> > Remove all sludge and throughly clean gasket surfaces
> > Remove rear main bearing cap
> > Remove and discard lower seal
> > Clean bearing cal throroughly
> > Loosen remaining bearing caps
> > Use brass drift and hammer to remove upper half of seal.
> >
> >
> > This is from my FSM for 1981 Jeep V8 engines. It seems to apply to both
> > the 304 and the 360.
> >
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.809 / Virus Database: 551 - Release Date: 09/12/2004
oil burn. slight knock on start up but after 368,000 km's I figure she can
moan abit.
Snow...
"Patrick" <pat.guarnaccia@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Aatwd.17643$pb.1150061@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> I just hit 280,000 Km today and check the oil since the last oil change
> (3000 km). Still the same....No oil leak and not burning. i Just love my
I6
> , Am i the only one in this case ?
> i got it a 237,000 Km and was well taken care off.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
> 10s4km71hr6342f@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:32f11hF3n9r4iU1@individual.net...
> >>> It's a two piece seal. It is relatively easy to replace, but seldom
> >>> fails.
> >>
> >> Is the 304 the same? 2 piece?
> >>
> >
> >
> > The rear main seal consists of a two-piece neoprene single lip seal.
> > Correct installation of the seal is required for leak-free engine
> > operation.
> >
> > Drain the oil
> > Remove starter motor
> > Remove pan
> > Remove pan side gaskets
> > Remove all sludge and throughly clean gasket surfaces
> > Remove rear main bearing cap
> > Remove and discard lower seal
> > Clean bearing cal throroughly
> > Loosen remaining bearing caps
> > Use brass drift and hammer to remove upper half of seal.
> >
> >
> > This is from my FSM for 1981 Jeep V8 engines. It seems to apply to both
> > the 304 and the 360.
> >
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.809 / Virus Database: 551 - Release Date: 09/12/2004
12-17-2004, 08:53 AM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear Main Seal Question
Just a FYI, but the valve covers have a 'really' sneaky habit of backing
off the bolts after a new gasket. So if you didn't glue the gasket in,
it sure is worth another wipe and just a finger test on the bolts. I
will bet you find the bolts loose.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Ervin Charles wrote:
>
> I sure wish you guys were right about the valve cover gasket, but I replaced
> it a couple of months ago. This engine has 188,000 miles on it and it's
> definitely the rear main...flowing like the Exxon Valdez. Do I absolutely
> have to pull the tranny or can I snake it in with the trans in place? Thanks
> for your replies!
> Charles
off the bolts after a new gasket. So if you didn't glue the gasket in,
it sure is worth another wipe and just a finger test on the bolts. I
will bet you find the bolts loose.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Ervin Charles wrote:
>
> I sure wish you guys were right about the valve cover gasket, but I replaced
> it a couple of months ago. This engine has 188,000 miles on it and it's
> definitely the rear main...flowing like the Exxon Valdez. Do I absolutely
> have to pull the tranny or can I snake it in with the trans in place? Thanks
> for your replies!
> Charles