Rear main seal
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/index.asp
Dave Milne, Scotland
'99 TJ 4.0 Sahara
<rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
removing
: the engine? If so, what is involved.
:
: --
: -----------------------------------------------------
: Click here for Free Video!!
: http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
:
:
Dave Milne, Scotland
'99 TJ 4.0 Sahara
<rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
: Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
removing
: the engine? If so, what is involved.
:
: --
: -----------------------------------------------------
: Click here for Free Video!!
: http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
:
:
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
Why?
It's a two piece seal...
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"MudPuppy1976 <\"moc.rr.pacyn\"@67lamina" wrote:
>
> remove the transmission and the flywheel, it's lighter than an engine
> and there's less stuff to unplug
> --
> Ben Jerew
> ASE Master Technician
> New Country Lexus of Latham, NY
> Amateur Off-Roader
It's a two piece seal...
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"MudPuppy1976 <\"moc.rr.pacyn\"@67lamina" wrote:
>
> remove the transmission and the flywheel, it's lighter than an engine
> and there's less stuff to unplug
> --
> Ben Jerew
> ASE Master Technician
> New Country Lexus of Latham, NY
> Amateur Off-Roader
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
Why?
It's a two piece seal...
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"MudPuppy1976 <\"moc.rr.pacyn\"@67lamina" wrote:
>
> remove the transmission and the flywheel, it's lighter than an engine
> and there's less stuff to unplug
> --
> Ben Jerew
> ASE Master Technician
> New Country Lexus of Latham, NY
> Amateur Off-Roader
It's a two piece seal...
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"MudPuppy1976 <\"moc.rr.pacyn\"@67lamina" wrote:
>
> remove the transmission and the flywheel, it's lighter than an engine
> and there's less stuff to unplug
> --
> Ben Jerew
> ASE Master Technician
> New Country Lexus of Latham, NY
> Amateur Off-Roader
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
Yes.
You simply remove the oil pan, loosen the bearing caps, and remove the rear
bearing cap.
That said, you have a leaking valve cover gasket, not a leaking rear main
seal.
<rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
removing
> the engine? If so, what is involved.
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
You simply remove the oil pan, loosen the bearing caps, and remove the rear
bearing cap.
That said, you have a leaking valve cover gasket, not a leaking rear main
seal.
<rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
removing
> the engine? If so, what is involved.
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
Yes.
You simply remove the oil pan, loosen the bearing caps, and remove the rear
bearing cap.
That said, you have a leaking valve cover gasket, not a leaking rear main
seal.
<rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
removing
> the engine? If so, what is involved.
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
You simply remove the oil pan, loosen the bearing caps, and remove the rear
bearing cap.
That said, you have a leaking valve cover gasket, not a leaking rear main
seal.
<rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
removing
> the engine? If so, what is involved.
>
> --
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
>
>
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
> Either you're a real optimist or the luckiest guy around, unless
> your'e definition of GENTLY is a whole lot different than mine! Mine
> took a brass drift and a 4 pound hammer on top of lots of cussing to
> break that top half-seal loose! Of course this was an '88 but a '91
> has had time to cook in, too.
Most of the time the upper seal half comes right out, UNLESS some moron
decided to use sealer on it, which may have been what caused Will's to be so
stubborn. But, YES, be very careful not to nick the bearing surface while
you're working the upper seal half out. I use an old chopstick to knock them
loose, then pull from the other side with a pair of needlenose pliers.
> the main bearing caps a bit but be sure you support the tranny on a
> jack to keep stress off the crank.
Good idea.
>You need to use a small amount of
> silicone sealer on the rear bearing cap ends of the seals so that they
> mate right - see the shop manual and I think even the Haynes manual
> mentions this.
The factory manual calls for Loctite 551 or some such sealer, turns out to
be a high temp RTV, or so the dealer tech tells me. You are also supposed to
seal either end of the cap itself with a very small amout of sealer.
> Besides getting the pan off (it grows on, too) you will need to pull
> the starter for working clearance.
This isn't necessary on later ones with the little Chrysler starter. It is
on CJs', etc. with the larger Ford-type unit.
The factory YJ manual suggests making 1" studs to insert into the larger pan
bolt holes on either side of the block. They suggests taking 1" long bolts,
grinding the heads off of then and cutting slots in the ends. (Whew, lot of
work!) You put the studs into the bolt holes on either side the block and
slip the seal over the studs before installing the pan. They hold it in
place while you muscle the pan back on. Not wanting this much work I simply
went to the local hardware store & found some some threaded studs with slots
in the ends and used them. Worked like a charm.
One last thought, be careful not to over tighten the small front-most pan
bolts. They are very short and seat in the aluminum front cover. If you
strip them out you'll have to pull the damper and replace the fron cover,
which won't be fun..
> On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 00:54:51 UTC "Gerald G. McGeorge"
> <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> > Yes. You must drain the oil & remove the oil pan, then remove the rear
main
> > bearing cap & bearing. You then GENTLY push out the old upper seal half
and
> > reinstall a replacement. Remove the old lower seal half at the rear of
the
> > rear main bearing cap, install the new lower seal half , torque the main
> > bearing cap in several steps to the factory torque, reinstall the pan
with a
> > new gasket, torque all pan bolts evenly and you're done.....But wait,
> > there's more!
> >
> > What leaks as often as the seal is the pan gasket at the rear main
bearing
> > cap. When you reinstall a new pan gasket get the one piece unit sold by
the
> > dealer (it's gray rubber.), put a good RTV bead on the groove in the
rear
> > main seal where the pan gasket seats, plus put some on the pan surface
all
> > along the rear of the pan, opposite the rear main bearing cap. Be sure
to
> > install the gasket FIRST, holding it in place with a few studs in the
oil
> > pan bolt holes (these keep it in place while you install the pan. If you
do
> > all this, and if you didn't FU the new seal putting it in, the fix will
last
> > about 25k - 40k miles before it starts to leak again. Live with it, it's
> > part of owning an old Jeep!
> >
> >
> > <rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> > > Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
> > removing
> > > the engine? If so, what is involved.
> > >
> > > --
> > > -----------------------------------------------------
> > > Click here for Free Video!!
> > > http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> your'e definition of GENTLY is a whole lot different than mine! Mine
> took a brass drift and a 4 pound hammer on top of lots of cussing to
> break that top half-seal loose! Of course this was an '88 but a '91
> has had time to cook in, too.
Most of the time the upper seal half comes right out, UNLESS some moron
decided to use sealer on it, which may have been what caused Will's to be so
stubborn. But, YES, be very careful not to nick the bearing surface while
you're working the upper seal half out. I use an old chopstick to knock them
loose, then pull from the other side with a pair of needlenose pliers.
> the main bearing caps a bit but be sure you support the tranny on a
> jack to keep stress off the crank.
Good idea.
>You need to use a small amount of
> silicone sealer on the rear bearing cap ends of the seals so that they
> mate right - see the shop manual and I think even the Haynes manual
> mentions this.
The factory manual calls for Loctite 551 or some such sealer, turns out to
be a high temp RTV, or so the dealer tech tells me. You are also supposed to
seal either end of the cap itself with a very small amout of sealer.
> Besides getting the pan off (it grows on, too) you will need to pull
> the starter for working clearance.
This isn't necessary on later ones with the little Chrysler starter. It is
on CJs', etc. with the larger Ford-type unit.
The factory YJ manual suggests making 1" studs to insert into the larger pan
bolt holes on either side of the block. They suggests taking 1" long bolts,
grinding the heads off of then and cutting slots in the ends. (Whew, lot of
work!) You put the studs into the bolt holes on either side the block and
slip the seal over the studs before installing the pan. They hold it in
place while you muscle the pan back on. Not wanting this much work I simply
went to the local hardware store & found some some threaded studs with slots
in the ends and used them. Worked like a charm.
One last thought, be careful not to over tighten the small front-most pan
bolts. They are very short and seat in the aluminum front cover. If you
strip them out you'll have to pull the damper and replace the fron cover,
which won't be fun..
> On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 00:54:51 UTC "Gerald G. McGeorge"
> <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> > Yes. You must drain the oil & remove the oil pan, then remove the rear
main
> > bearing cap & bearing. You then GENTLY push out the old upper seal half
and
> > reinstall a replacement. Remove the old lower seal half at the rear of
the
> > rear main bearing cap, install the new lower seal half , torque the main
> > bearing cap in several steps to the factory torque, reinstall the pan
with a
> > new gasket, torque all pan bolts evenly and you're done.....But wait,
> > there's more!
> >
> > What leaks as often as the seal is the pan gasket at the rear main
bearing
> > cap. When you reinstall a new pan gasket get the one piece unit sold by
the
> > dealer (it's gray rubber.), put a good RTV bead on the groove in the
rear
> > main seal where the pan gasket seats, plus put some on the pan surface
all
> > along the rear of the pan, opposite the rear main bearing cap. Be sure
to
> > install the gasket FIRST, holding it in place with a few studs in the
oil
> > pan bolt holes (these keep it in place while you install the pan. If you
do
> > all this, and if you didn't FU the new seal putting it in, the fix will
last
> > about 25k - 40k miles before it starts to leak again. Live with it, it's
> > part of owning an old Jeep!
> >
> >
> > <rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> > > Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
> > removing
> > > the engine? If so, what is involved.
> > >
> > > --
> > > -----------------------------------------------------
> > > Click here for Free Video!!
> > > http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
> Either you're a real optimist or the luckiest guy around, unless
> your'e definition of GENTLY is a whole lot different than mine! Mine
> took a brass drift and a 4 pound hammer on top of lots of cussing to
> break that top half-seal loose! Of course this was an '88 but a '91
> has had time to cook in, too.
Most of the time the upper seal half comes right out, UNLESS some moron
decided to use sealer on it, which may have been what caused Will's to be so
stubborn. But, YES, be very careful not to nick the bearing surface while
you're working the upper seal half out. I use an old chopstick to knock them
loose, then pull from the other side with a pair of needlenose pliers.
> the main bearing caps a bit but be sure you support the tranny on a
> jack to keep stress off the crank.
Good idea.
>You need to use a small amount of
> silicone sealer on the rear bearing cap ends of the seals so that they
> mate right - see the shop manual and I think even the Haynes manual
> mentions this.
The factory manual calls for Loctite 551 or some such sealer, turns out to
be a high temp RTV, or so the dealer tech tells me. You are also supposed to
seal either end of the cap itself with a very small amout of sealer.
> Besides getting the pan off (it grows on, too) you will need to pull
> the starter for working clearance.
This isn't necessary on later ones with the little Chrysler starter. It is
on CJs', etc. with the larger Ford-type unit.
The factory YJ manual suggests making 1" studs to insert into the larger pan
bolt holes on either side of the block. They suggests taking 1" long bolts,
grinding the heads off of then and cutting slots in the ends. (Whew, lot of
work!) You put the studs into the bolt holes on either side the block and
slip the seal over the studs before installing the pan. They hold it in
place while you muscle the pan back on. Not wanting this much work I simply
went to the local hardware store & found some some threaded studs with slots
in the ends and used them. Worked like a charm.
One last thought, be careful not to over tighten the small front-most pan
bolts. They are very short and seat in the aluminum front cover. If you
strip them out you'll have to pull the damper and replace the fron cover,
which won't be fun..
> On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 00:54:51 UTC "Gerald G. McGeorge"
> <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> > Yes. You must drain the oil & remove the oil pan, then remove the rear
main
> > bearing cap & bearing. You then GENTLY push out the old upper seal half
and
> > reinstall a replacement. Remove the old lower seal half at the rear of
the
> > rear main bearing cap, install the new lower seal half , torque the main
> > bearing cap in several steps to the factory torque, reinstall the pan
with a
> > new gasket, torque all pan bolts evenly and you're done.....But wait,
> > there's more!
> >
> > What leaks as often as the seal is the pan gasket at the rear main
bearing
> > cap. When you reinstall a new pan gasket get the one piece unit sold by
the
> > dealer (it's gray rubber.), put a good RTV bead on the groove in the
rear
> > main seal where the pan gasket seats, plus put some on the pan surface
all
> > along the rear of the pan, opposite the rear main bearing cap. Be sure
to
> > install the gasket FIRST, holding it in place with a few studs in the
oil
> > pan bolt holes (these keep it in place while you install the pan. If you
do
> > all this, and if you didn't FU the new seal putting it in, the fix will
last
> > about 25k - 40k miles before it starts to leak again. Live with it, it's
> > part of owning an old Jeep!
> >
> >
> > <rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> > > Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
> > removing
> > > the engine? If so, what is involved.
> > >
> > > --
> > > -----------------------------------------------------
> > > Click here for Free Video!!
> > > http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> your'e definition of GENTLY is a whole lot different than mine! Mine
> took a brass drift and a 4 pound hammer on top of lots of cussing to
> break that top half-seal loose! Of course this was an '88 but a '91
> has had time to cook in, too.
Most of the time the upper seal half comes right out, UNLESS some moron
decided to use sealer on it, which may have been what caused Will's to be so
stubborn. But, YES, be very careful not to nick the bearing surface while
you're working the upper seal half out. I use an old chopstick to knock them
loose, then pull from the other side with a pair of needlenose pliers.
> the main bearing caps a bit but be sure you support the tranny on a
> jack to keep stress off the crank.
Good idea.
>You need to use a small amount of
> silicone sealer on the rear bearing cap ends of the seals so that they
> mate right - see the shop manual and I think even the Haynes manual
> mentions this.
The factory manual calls for Loctite 551 or some such sealer, turns out to
be a high temp RTV, or so the dealer tech tells me. You are also supposed to
seal either end of the cap itself with a very small amout of sealer.
> Besides getting the pan off (it grows on, too) you will need to pull
> the starter for working clearance.
This isn't necessary on later ones with the little Chrysler starter. It is
on CJs', etc. with the larger Ford-type unit.
The factory YJ manual suggests making 1" studs to insert into the larger pan
bolt holes on either side of the block. They suggests taking 1" long bolts,
grinding the heads off of then and cutting slots in the ends. (Whew, lot of
work!) You put the studs into the bolt holes on either side the block and
slip the seal over the studs before installing the pan. They hold it in
place while you muscle the pan back on. Not wanting this much work I simply
went to the local hardware store & found some some threaded studs with slots
in the ends and used them. Worked like a charm.
One last thought, be careful not to over tighten the small front-most pan
bolts. They are very short and seat in the aluminum front cover. If you
strip them out you'll have to pull the damper and replace the fron cover,
which won't be fun..
> On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 00:54:51 UTC "Gerald G. McGeorge"
> <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote:
>
> > Yes. You must drain the oil & remove the oil pan, then remove the rear
main
> > bearing cap & bearing. You then GENTLY push out the old upper seal half
and
> > reinstall a replacement. Remove the old lower seal half at the rear of
the
> > rear main bearing cap, install the new lower seal half , torque the main
> > bearing cap in several steps to the factory torque, reinstall the pan
with a
> > new gasket, torque all pan bolts evenly and you're done.....But wait,
> > there's more!
> >
> > What leaks as often as the seal is the pan gasket at the rear main
bearing
> > cap. When you reinstall a new pan gasket get the one piece unit sold by
the
> > dealer (it's gray rubber.), put a good RTV bead on the groove in the
rear
> > main seal where the pan gasket seats, plus put some on the pan surface
all
> > along the rear of the pan, opposite the rear main bearing cap. Be sure
to
> > install the gasket FIRST, holding it in place with a few studs in the
oil
> > pan bolt holes (these keep it in place while you install the pan. If you
do
> > all this, and if you didn't FU the new seal putting it in, the fix will
last
> > about 25k - 40k miles before it starts to leak again. Live with it, it's
> > part of owning an old Jeep!
> >
> >
> > <rorr4@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:1lrbb.18767$Qd.704863@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> > > Can you replace the rear main seal on a 91 4.0 YJ automatic without
> > removing
> > > the engine? If so, what is involved.
> > >
> > > --
> > > -----------------------------------------------------
> > > Click here for Free Video!!
> > > http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
He probably changed a 4.0 Ford last.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Why?
>
> It's a two piece seal...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Why?
>
> It's a two piece seal...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
He probably changed a 4.0 Ford last.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Why?
>
> It's a two piece seal...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Why?
>
> It's a two piece seal...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear main seal
On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 15:09:24 UTC "Gerald G. McGeorge"
<gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote:
> Most of the time the upper seal half comes right out, UNLESS some moron
> decided to use sealer on it, which may have been what caused Will's to be so
> stubborn. But, YES, be very careful not to nick the bearing surface while
> you're working the upper seal half out. I use an old chopstick to knock them
> loose, then pull from the other side with a pair of needlenose pliers.
Like I said, your definition of GENTLY... <g>. Every one of these
things I've ever done on on heaps has been pretty tight and there's
usually a ring of hardened (baked?) oil on them. Once it moves even a
little you're home free - it's that first little bit that's tough.
For mine, I put a good half inch mushroom on the head of a 7/32 brass
rod getting it out and almost that getting the one out of my son's '91
XJ. Definitely beyond the chopstick working range.
Slightly afield, but I don't recall any tabs on the seal halves - what
keeps them from spinning over time? Just the friction in the groove?
--
Will Honea
<gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote:
> Most of the time the upper seal half comes right out, UNLESS some moron
> decided to use sealer on it, which may have been what caused Will's to be so
> stubborn. But, YES, be very careful not to nick the bearing surface while
> you're working the upper seal half out. I use an old chopstick to knock them
> loose, then pull from the other side with a pair of needlenose pliers.
Like I said, your definition of GENTLY... <g>. Every one of these
things I've ever done on on heaps has been pretty tight and there's
usually a ring of hardened (baked?) oil on them. Once it moves even a
little you're home free - it's that first little bit that's tough.
For mine, I put a good half inch mushroom on the head of a 7/32 brass
rod getting it out and almost that getting the one out of my son's '91
XJ. Definitely beyond the chopstick working range.
Slightly afield, but I don't recall any tabs on the seal halves - what
keeps them from spinning over time? Just the friction in the groove?
--
Will Honea