If you do bypass it, find a straight, deserted road to try it out on -
then go hook it back up. That long, light weight rear end is gonna do
two things, both bad. It will try and come around to see where you
are going and it will lockup with very little effort. BTDT - forgot
to hook the arm back up and it was tied in the full load position.

There is an adjustment procedure in the FSM for that linkage. I've
got mine set pretty close so I can actually get the rear end to come
close to locking - close enough to leave visible marks on the pavement
- but only after the front end is leaving much darker marks and that's
with a healthy 230 pounds basically standing on the brake pedal and a
noticable load in the back. I'm not sure I could even get them to
squeal with the bed empty. The FSM seems to indicate that the "metric
ton" version with the D44 dif has larger brakes in the rear - which
would make sense as it has a considerably higher GVWR.

On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 17:36:11 UTC "attnews" <john .n.
allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

> My '87 comanche long bed's brake proportioning valve was missing its link
> for years...finally replaced it, but still have almost no braking from rear
> wheels. Infact, can't even get them to lock up on gravel or ice. Thought
> about by-passing the valve, but wondered what is involved....Do you end up
> with too much braking in back...which could cause skids...??
> "Stephen R. Conrad" <sconrad@telecommunity.to> wrote in message
> news:2sag7iF1guukkU2@uni-berlin.de...
> > If that is true, then mine are incorrect. I have over the years come to be
> > suspicious of "always" and other such absolutes :)
> >
> > My goal is to get the best working brakes possible. The brake shop wanted
> > $700 to install new drums, shoes and wheel cylinders. I did the job for
> > $150 in parts. The brakes work well now, except for the disconnected
> parking
> > brake and the bypassed bed height sensing valve. I found several interior
> > parts missing and would like to approximate the correct configuration as
> > closely as possible.
> >
> > Thanks again for your help.
> >
> > From: "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net>
> > Subject: Re: Rear brakes are backwards?
> > Date: Saturday, October 02, 2004 10:53 PM
> >
> > What exactly are you working on? Emergency brake cables always pull
> > in as straight a line as possible.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > "Stephen R. Conrad" wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for your help.
> > >
> > > I'm not exactly sure how to respond to this without the ability to post
> a
> > > picture or drawing.
> > >
> > > My brakes have several different looking components compared to photo's
> in
> > > the article you referenced. These are probably unimportant details. But,
> > > the
> > > rear parking brake cables from the equalizer to the drum appear to be
> the
> > > proper length with spring type hangers off the frame to enter the drums
> > > from
> > > the rear.
> > >
> > > The current cables are rusted and need to be replaced. Curious, that, I
> > > don't find a different reference # at the autoparts web sites for long
> bed
> > > or short bed.
> >
> >
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

If you do bypass it, find a straight, deserted road to try it out on -
then go hook it back up. That long, light weight rear end is gonna do
two things, both bad. It will try and come around to see where you
are going and it will lockup with very little effort. BTDT - forgot
to hook the arm back up and it was tied in the full load position.

There is an adjustment procedure in the FSM for that linkage. I've
got mine set pretty close so I can actually get the rear end to come
close to locking - close enough to leave visible marks on the pavement
- but only after the front end is leaving much darker marks and that's
with a healthy 230 pounds basically standing on the brake pedal and a
noticable load in the back. I'm not sure I could even get them to
squeal with the bed empty. The FSM seems to indicate that the "metric
ton" version with the D44 dif has larger brakes in the rear - which
would make sense as it has a considerably higher GVWR.

On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 17:36:11 UTC "attnews" <john .n.
allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

> My '87 comanche long bed's brake proportioning valve was missing its link
> for years...finally replaced it, but still have almost no braking from rear
> wheels. Infact, can't even get them to lock up on gravel or ice. Thought
> about by-passing the valve, but wondered what is involved....Do you end up
> with too much braking in back...which could cause skids...??
> "Stephen R. Conrad" <sconrad@telecommunity.to> wrote in message
> news:2sag7iF1guukkU2@uni-berlin.de...
> > If that is true, then mine are incorrect. I have over the years come to be
> > suspicious of "always" and other such absolutes :)
> >
> > My goal is to get the best working brakes possible. The brake shop wanted
> > $700 to install new drums, shoes and wheel cylinders. I did the job for
> > $150 in parts. The brakes work well now, except for the disconnected
> parking
> > brake and the bypassed bed height sensing valve. I found several interior
> > parts missing and would like to approximate the correct configuration as
> > closely as possible.
> >
> > Thanks again for your help.
> >
> > From: "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net>
> > Subject: Re: Rear brakes are backwards?
> > Date: Saturday, October 02, 2004 10:53 PM
> >
> > What exactly are you working on? Emergency brake cables always pull
> > in as straight a line as possible.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > "Stephen R. Conrad" wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for your help.
> > >
> > > I'm not exactly sure how to respond to this without the ability to post
> a
> > > picture or drawing.
> > >
> > > My brakes have several different looking components compared to photo's
> in
> > > the article you referenced. These are probably unimportant details. But,
> > > the
> > > rear parking brake cables from the equalizer to the drum appear to be
> the
> > > proper length with spring type hangers off the frame to enter the drums
> > > from
> > > the rear.
> > >
> > > The current cables are rusted and need to be replaced. Curious, that, I
> > > don't find a different reference # at the autoparts web sites for long
> bed
> > > or short bed.
> >
> >
> >
>
>


--
Will Honea