Mike Romain wrote:

> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>
> Mike


What Mike said...whew!! :)

I guess my suggestion on the axle swap would be that you are going to
spend some serious coin swapping gears. If you're SURE you will never
need the extra beef, just gear your 30/35s...BUT...For similar money you
might be able to take that investment and purchase some lightly used
Rubi D44s that have FACTORY set up 4:10/4:11 gears in them already, and
since you will be lifting this Jeep and your axles will be all but
removed already. They also have pneumatic lockers and a helical gear
limited slip (much better than clutch base for longevity). From MY
perspective ALONE, this is the way I would go. Hardcore Jeepers
sometimes upgrade their Rubis to stronger axles and let the orig stuff
go fairly cheap in comparison. The hardest part of this swap would be
moving over the air for the pneumatic lockers or installing your own,
but I think it would be worth the effort.

As far as warranty goes when modifying a vehicle, you have to accept
that anything you upgrade will have NO Jeep warranty and anything those
parts might affect MAY also be stricken from your warranty. I'm a person
that takes that risk, you may not be. I put a 4" lift on my '99 TJ at
900 miles and 2k miles for the Rubi. If this bothers you, I'd wait until
the basic warranty is up prior to going to 33s and the can of worms in
parts you will be replacing. Since it will take a long time to wear out
those BFG 31s, you may be there timewise anyway. (That gives you a
couple of years to locate some cherry D44s!)

tw

 

Tracie wrote:
> On Sep 22, 12:03 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
>>> of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
>>> the stronger axles)?
>> You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!
>>
>> Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
>>
>>> original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?
>> Yup.
>>
>> I don't do any
>>
>>> heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
>>> any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
>>> than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
>>> benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?
>> No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
>> having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.
>>
>> Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
>> t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
>> brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
>> anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.
>>
>> Now the other confusion is
>>
>>> mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
>>> vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
>>> if it helps.
>> See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
>> good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.
>>
>> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Sorry (about the too many too fast).
>
> OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
> DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
> D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.
>
> I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
> extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
> ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.
>
> Does this cover it and sound correct?
>


It does to me. And IF you want lockers for your off road stuff, which
you probably don't need, then you will more than likely want the ones
that you can switch on and off from the dash. This is something that
would be best to decide before you do the gear change though, because
the labor is basically covered in the gear change. Also, you don't need
lockers in both front and back. You can just install in one axle if you
wish.

Chris

 

Tracie wrote:
> On Sep 22, 12:03 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
>>> of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
>>> the stronger axles)?
>> You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!
>>
>> Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
>>
>>> original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?
>> Yup.
>>
>> I don't do any
>>
>>> heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
>>> any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
>>> than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
>>> benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?
>> No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
>> having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.
>>
>> Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
>> t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
>> brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
>> anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.
>>
>> Now the other confusion is
>>
>>> mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
>>> vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
>>> if it helps.
>> See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
>> good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.
>>
>> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Sorry (about the too many too fast).
>
> OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
> DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
> D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.
>
> I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
> extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
> ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.
>
> Does this cover it and sound correct?
>


It does to me. And IF you want lockers for your off road stuff, which
you probably don't need, then you will more than likely want the ones
that you can switch on and off from the dash. This is something that
would be best to decide before you do the gear change though, because
the labor is basically covered in the gear change. Also, you don't need
lockers in both front and back. You can just install in one axle if you
wish.

Chris

 

Tracie wrote:
> On Sep 22, 12:03 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
>>> of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
>>> the stronger axles)?
>> You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!
>>
>> Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
>>
>>> original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?
>> Yup.
>>
>> I don't do any
>>
>>> heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
>>> any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
>>> than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
>>> benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?
>> No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
>> having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.
>>
>> Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
>> t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
>> brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
>> anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.
>>
>> Now the other confusion is
>>
>>> mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
>>> vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
>>> if it helps.
>> See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
>> good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.
>>
>> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Sorry (about the too many too fast).
>
> OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
> DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
> D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.
>
> I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
> extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
> ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.
>
> Does this cover it and sound correct?
>


It does to me. And IF you want lockers for your off road stuff, which
you probably don't need, then you will more than likely want the ones
that you can switch on and off from the dash. This is something that
would be best to decide before you do the gear change though, because
the labor is basically covered in the gear change. Also, you don't need
lockers in both front and back. You can just install in one axle if you
wish.

Chris

 

Tracie wrote:
> On Sep 22, 12:03 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
>>> of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
>>> the stronger axles)?
>> You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!
>>
>> Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
>>
>>> original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?
>> Yup.
>>
>> I don't do any
>>
>>> heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
>>> any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
>>> than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
>>> benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?
>> No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
>> having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.
>>
>> Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
>> t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
>> brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
>> anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.
>>
>> Now the other confusion is
>>
>>> mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
>>> vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
>>> if it helps.
>> See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
>> good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.
>>
>> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Sorry (about the too many too fast).
>
> OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
> DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
> D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.
>
> I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
> extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
> ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.
>
> Does this cover it and sound correct?
>


It does to me. And IF you want lockers for your off road stuff, which
you probably don't need, then you will more than likely want the ones
that you can switch on and off from the dash. This is something that
would be best to decide before you do the gear change though, because
the labor is basically covered in the gear change. Also, you don't need
lockers in both front and back. You can just install in one axle if you
wish.

Chris

 

On Sep 21, 3:13 pm, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 21, 11:47 am, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > goal
> > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > bone
> > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > please
> > help! : D
>
> > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > 6 speed manual
> > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > current 3.07s
>
> > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > (like
> > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.
>
> I run 33's with 4.10 gearing and for me its a perfect fit for an all
> around vehicle. I had 31's with 3.07 gearing and hated it after a
> awhile
> Not sure if your year/type wrangler came as a 4 cyl but you could
> swap in some 4 cyl axles with 4.10 gears. I did on my YJ.Best upgrade
> I ever did.
> Thats what I did before I got my 8.8 in the rear :-)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

It probably wouldn't be too bad, if it were a manual tranny. It just
drops out of OD even on the slightest hill. Its an 05 rubicon 6
cyclinder 4 liter,

 

On Sep 21, 3:13 pm, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 21, 11:47 am, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > goal
> > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > bone
> > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > please
> > help! : D
>
> > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > 6 speed manual
> > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > current 3.07s
>
> > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > (like
> > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.
>
> I run 33's with 4.10 gearing and for me its a perfect fit for an all
> around vehicle. I had 31's with 3.07 gearing and hated it after a
> awhile
> Not sure if your year/type wrangler came as a 4 cyl but you could
> swap in some 4 cyl axles with 4.10 gears. I did on my YJ.Best upgrade
> I ever did.
> Thats what I did before I got my 8.8 in the rear :-)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

It probably wouldn't be too bad, if it were a manual tranny. It just
drops out of OD even on the slightest hill. Its an 05 rubicon 6
cyclinder 4 liter,

 

On Sep 21, 3:13 pm, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 21, 11:47 am, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > goal
> > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > bone
> > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > please
> > help! : D
>
> > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > 6 speed manual
> > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > current 3.07s
>
> > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > (like
> > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.
>
> I run 33's with 4.10 gearing and for me its a perfect fit for an all
> around vehicle. I had 31's with 3.07 gearing and hated it after a
> awhile
> Not sure if your year/type wrangler came as a 4 cyl but you could
> swap in some 4 cyl axles with 4.10 gears. I did on my YJ.Best upgrade
> I ever did.
> Thats what I did before I got my 8.8 in the rear :-)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

It probably wouldn't be too bad, if it were a manual tranny. It just
drops out of OD even on the slightest hill. Its an 05 rubicon 6
cyclinder 4 liter,

 

On Sep 21, 3:13 pm, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 21, 11:47 am, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > goal
> > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > bone
> > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > please
> > help! : D
>
> > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > 6 speed manual
> > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > current 3.07s
>
> > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > (like
> > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.
>
> I run 33's with 4.10 gearing and for me its a perfect fit for an all
> around vehicle. I had 31's with 3.07 gearing and hated it after a
> awhile
> Not sure if your year/type wrangler came as a 4 cyl but you could
> swap in some 4 cyl axles with 4.10 gears. I did on my YJ.Best upgrade
> I ever did.
> Thats what I did before I got my 8.8 in the rear :-)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

It probably wouldn't be too bad, if it were a manual tranny. It just
drops out of OD even on the slightest hill. Its an 05 rubicon 6
cyclinder 4 liter,

 

Tracie wrote:

>
> Sorry (about the too many too fast).

Well, you sure are enthusiastic, LOL!

>
> OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
> DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
> D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.
>
> I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
> extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
> ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.
>
> Does this cover it and sound correct?
>

I would do just that for now.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)