Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

Tracie wrote:

>
> Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
> of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
> the stronger axles)?

You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!

Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
> original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?

Yup.


I don't do any
> heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
> any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
> than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
> benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?

No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.

Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.

Now the other confusion is
> mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
> vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
> if it helps.
>

See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.

You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

Tracie wrote:

>
> Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
> of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
> the stronger axles)?

You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!

Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
> original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?

Yup.


I don't do any
> heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
> any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
> than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
> benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?

No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.

Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.

Now the other confusion is
> mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
> vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
> if it helps.
>

See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.

You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

Tracie wrote:

>
> Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
> of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
> the stronger axles)?

You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!

Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
> original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?

Yup.


I don't do any
> heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
> any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
> than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
> benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?

No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.

Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.

Now the other confusion is
> mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
> vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
> if it helps.
>

See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.

You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

On Sep 22, 12:03 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
> > of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
> > the stronger axles)?
>
> You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!
>
> Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
>
> > original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?
>
> Yup.
>
> I don't do any
>
> > heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
> > any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
> > than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
> > benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?
>
> No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
> having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.
>
> Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
> t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
> brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
> anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.
>
> Now the other confusion is
>
> > mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
> > vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
> > if it helps.
>
> See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
> good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.
>
> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Sorry (about the too many too fast).

OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.

I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.

Does this cover it and sound correct?

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

On Sep 22, 12:03 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
> > of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
> > the stronger axles)?
>
> You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!
>
> Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
>
> > original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?
>
> Yup.
>
> I don't do any
>
> > heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
> > any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
> > than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
> > benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?
>
> No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
> having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.
>
> Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
> t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
> brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
> anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.
>
> Now the other confusion is
>
> > mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
> > vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
> > if it helps.
>
> See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
> good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.
>
> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Sorry (about the too many too fast).

OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.

I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.

Does this cover it and sound correct?

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

On Sep 22, 12:03 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
> > of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
> > the stronger axles)?
>
> You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!
>
> Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
>
> > original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?
>
> Yup.
>
> I don't do any
>
> > heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
> > any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
> > than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
> > benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?
>
> No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
> having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.
>
> Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
> t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
> brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
> anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.
>
> Now the other confusion is
>
> > mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
> > vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
> > if it helps.
>
> See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
> good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.
>
> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Sorry (about the too many too fast).

OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.

I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.

Does this cover it and sound correct?

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

On Sep 22, 12:03 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Oh goodness. I am sooo confused. What is the difference/benefit/etc.
> > of totally changing out the Dana 30/35 for the Dana 44s (other than
> > the stronger axles)?
>
> You lose your drivetrain warranty for starters!
>
> Won't you get the same effect if you keep the
>
> > original Dana's and just upgrade the gears to 4.11s?
>
> Yup.
>
> I don't do any
>
> > heavy off-roading at all, and don't ever intend to upgrade my tires to
> > any bigger than a 33" tire. I also do not intend to lift my rig more
> > than 4 inches (I am leaning on a 3.5 RE lift). What is the overall
> > benefit of the stronger axles of the D44s?
>
> No benefit in your case, unless you 'really' enjoy spending money and
> having no drivetrain warranty on your New Jeep.
>
> Ya ya, I know about the US mag moss law, but they can 'easily' blame a
> t-case or tranny or driveshaft failure on a bad install as well as the
> brake parts or suspension parts. You can forget wheel bearings,
> anything to do with steering or front end. etc., etc.
>
> Now the other confusion is
>
> > mentioned in my previous post regarding the difference in limited slip
> > vs. locking. I do a lot of snow driving and a lot of highway driving
> > if it helps.
>
> See my other 2 posts about that. Traction devices are not generally a
> good thing on snow on the road in a short wheelbase Jeep.
>
> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Sorry (about the too many too fast).

OK....I think I got it. Since I don't do any heavy off-roading, but
DO do alot of highway/snow driving, I would be best to just keep my
D30/35 and just upgrade the gears to the 4.11s.

I could keep my original factory warranty (45,000 miles left with the
extended warranty). I don't need stronger axles since I am NOT
ugrading to more than 33" tires or doing any heavy off-roading.

Does this cover it and sound correct?

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

Mike Romain wrote:

> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>
> Mike


What Mike said...whew!! :)

I guess my suggestion on the axle swap would be that you are going to
spend some serious coin swapping gears. If you're SURE you will never
need the extra beef, just gear your 30/35s...BUT...For similar money you
might be able to take that investment and purchase some lightly used
Rubi D44s that have FACTORY set up 4:10/4:11 gears in them already, and
since you will be lifting this Jeep and your axles will be all but
removed already. They also have pneumatic lockers and a helical gear
limited slip (much better than clutch base for longevity). From MY
perspective ALONE, this is the way I would go. Hardcore Jeepers
sometimes upgrade their Rubis to stronger axles and let the orig stuff
go fairly cheap in comparison. The hardest part of this swap would be
moving over the air for the pneumatic lockers or installing your own,
but I think it would be worth the effort.

As far as warranty goes when modifying a vehicle, you have to accept
that anything you upgrade will have NO Jeep warranty and anything those
parts might affect MAY also be stricken from your warranty. I'm a person
that takes that risk, you may not be. I put a 4" lift on my '99 TJ at
900 miles and 2k miles for the Rubi. If this bothers you, I'd wait until
the basic warranty is up prior to going to 33s and the can of worms in
parts you will be replacing. Since it will take a long time to wear out
those BFG 31s, you may be there timewise anyway. (That gives you a
couple of years to locate some cherry D44s!)

tw

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

Mike Romain wrote:

> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>
> Mike


What Mike said...whew!! :)

I guess my suggestion on the axle swap would be that you are going to
spend some serious coin swapping gears. If you're SURE you will never
need the extra beef, just gear your 30/35s...BUT...For similar money you
might be able to take that investment and purchase some lightly used
Rubi D44s that have FACTORY set up 4:10/4:11 gears in them already, and
since you will be lifting this Jeep and your axles will be all but
removed already. They also have pneumatic lockers and a helical gear
limited slip (much better than clutch base for longevity). From MY
perspective ALONE, this is the way I would go. Hardcore Jeepers
sometimes upgrade their Rubis to stronger axles and let the orig stuff
go fairly cheap in comparison. The hardest part of this swap would be
moving over the air for the pneumatic lockers or installing your own,
but I think it would be worth the effort.

As far as warranty goes when modifying a vehicle, you have to accept
that anything you upgrade will have NO Jeep warranty and anything those
parts might affect MAY also be stricken from your warranty. I'm a person
that takes that risk, you may not be. I put a 4" lift on my '99 TJ at
900 miles and 2k miles for the Rubi. If this bothers you, I'd wait until
the basic warranty is up prior to going to 33s and the can of worms in
parts you will be replacing. Since it will take a long time to wear out
those BFG 31s, you may be there timewise anyway. (That gives you a
couple of years to locate some cherry D44s!)

tw

Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
 

Mike Romain wrote:

> You are asking too many questions too fast. You should wait for answers.
>
> Mike


What Mike said...whew!! :)

I guess my suggestion on the axle swap would be that you are going to
spend some serious coin swapping gears. If you're SURE you will never
need the extra beef, just gear your 30/35s...BUT...For similar money you
might be able to take that investment and purchase some lightly used
Rubi D44s that have FACTORY set up 4:10/4:11 gears in them already, and
since you will be lifting this Jeep and your axles will be all but
removed already. They also have pneumatic lockers and a helical gear
limited slip (much better than clutch base for longevity). From MY
perspective ALONE, this is the way I would go. Hardcore Jeepers
sometimes upgrade their Rubis to stronger axles and let the orig stuff
go fairly cheap in comparison. The hardest part of this swap would be
moving over the air for the pneumatic lockers or installing your own,
but I think it would be worth the effort.

As far as warranty goes when modifying a vehicle, you have to accept
that anything you upgrade will have NO Jeep warranty and anything those
parts might affect MAY also be stricken from your warranty. I'm a person
that takes that risk, you may not be. I put a 4" lift on my '99 TJ at
900 miles and 2k miles for the Rubi. If this bothers you, I'd wait until
the basic warranty is up prior to going to 33s and the can of worms in
parts you will be replacing. Since it will take a long time to wear out
those BFG 31s, you may be there timewise anyway. (That gives you a
couple of years to locate some cherry D44s!)

tw