Mike Romain

If the starter turns Billy Ray, then the engine ground is fine. If
there is no spark, then maybe the body ground is bad.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

billy ray wrote:
>
> You connect the battery negative ground (-) terminal to some part of the
> engine or a piece of metal bolted to the engine to check the ground straps.
>
> You would get fireworks if you accidentally connected the positive terminal
> to the engine block.
>
> "nelkhour" <nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net> wrote in message
> news:nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net...
> >
> > First and foremost thanks Kate, Mike and Earle for your reply as well as
> > everyone else.
> > I am in Doha, Qatar and Earle is right taking it somewhere to have it
> > diagnosed is very difficult unless I want to go to the dealer here.
> >
> > I have checked for spark like kate had suggested and there is no spark
> > when the engine is cranking.
> > I did change the fuel filter, but did not check the fuel pressure. I was
> > going to check the rotor, distributor cap and finally the coil. I thought
> > that nothing is wrong with those since it runs fine once it has started.
> >
> > In terms of testing if there are any issues with the ground strap that
> > runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. Do I connect the
> > booster cable to the positive terminal or negative terminal on the
> > battery? I appologize if this is a stupid question.
> >
> > Another question, why would these not starting issue just happens when the
> > car has cooled sufficiently down vs. being warm?
> >
> > I will try and see how to get the service manual here in Doha.
> >
> > Again, thank you for all your help which has been very much appreciated.
> >
> > Nadim
> >
> >
> > --
> > nelkhour
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-360641.html
> >
> > Send from http://www.carstalk.net
> >

Mike Romain

If the starter turns Billy Ray, then the engine ground is fine. If
there is no spark, then maybe the body ground is bad.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

billy ray wrote:
>
> You connect the battery negative ground (-) terminal to some part of the
> engine or a piece of metal bolted to the engine to check the ground straps.
>
> You would get fireworks if you accidentally connected the positive terminal
> to the engine block.
>
> "nelkhour" <nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net> wrote in message
> news:nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net...
> >
> > First and foremost thanks Kate, Mike and Earle for your reply as well as
> > everyone else.
> > I am in Doha, Qatar and Earle is right taking it somewhere to have it
> > diagnosed is very difficult unless I want to go to the dealer here.
> >
> > I have checked for spark like kate had suggested and there is no spark
> > when the engine is cranking.
> > I did change the fuel filter, but did not check the fuel pressure. I was
> > going to check the rotor, distributor cap and finally the coil. I thought
> > that nothing is wrong with those since it runs fine once it has started.
> >
> > In terms of testing if there are any issues with the ground strap that
> > runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. Do I connect the
> > booster cable to the positive terminal or negative terminal on the
> > battery? I appologize if this is a stupid question.
> >
> > Another question, why would these not starting issue just happens when the
> > car has cooled sufficiently down vs. being warm?
> >
> > I will try and see how to get the service manual here in Doha.
> >
> > Again, thank you for all your help which has been very much appreciated.
> >
> > Nadim
> >
> >
> > --
> > nelkhour
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-360641.html
> >
> > Send from http://www.carstalk.net
> >

Mike Romain

If the starter turns Billy Ray, then the engine ground is fine. If
there is no spark, then maybe the body ground is bad.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

billy ray wrote:
>
> You connect the battery negative ground (-) terminal to some part of the
> engine or a piece of metal bolted to the engine to check the ground straps.
>
> You would get fireworks if you accidentally connected the positive terminal
> to the engine block.
>
> "nelkhour" <nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net> wrote in message
> news:nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net...
> >
> > First and foremost thanks Kate, Mike and Earle for your reply as well as
> > everyone else.
> > I am in Doha, Qatar and Earle is right taking it somewhere to have it
> > diagnosed is very difficult unless I want to go to the dealer here.
> >
> > I have checked for spark like kate had suggested and there is no spark
> > when the engine is cranking.
> > I did change the fuel filter, but did not check the fuel pressure. I was
> > going to check the rotor, distributor cap and finally the coil. I thought
> > that nothing is wrong with those since it runs fine once it has started.
> >
> > In terms of testing if there are any issues with the ground strap that
> > runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. Do I connect the
> > booster cable to the positive terminal or negative terminal on the
> > battery? I appologize if this is a stupid question.
> >
> > Another question, why would these not starting issue just happens when the
> > car has cooled sufficiently down vs. being warm?
> >
> > I will try and see how to get the service manual here in Doha.
> >
> > Again, thank you for all your help which has been very much appreciated.
> >
> > Nadim
> >
> >
> > --
> > nelkhour
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-360641.html
> >
> > Send from http://www.carstalk.net
> >

KJ.Kate

Hi Again Nadim,

I would try pulling your distributor cap, check it for wear and/or a crack.
You might just go ahead and replace the Cap, rotor AND the little
condenser. (if so equipped)
All of those should be pretty inexpensive.

Have a look at your points. They are cheap too. If you even have points
.....??? I have no idea about Jeeps like yours so I am guessing.

They are pretty inexpensive and something that probabaly needs replacing
anyway. If you DO have points, and you DO replace them, be sure you set the
gap properly.

Also, your coil (if so equipped) may be suspect.

Double, triple check your coil wire connection. Be sure that the ends of the
wire are fully plugged in on both ends, that they protrude far enough out of
the boot to connect firmly.

If you have located the ground strap unbolt it and clean all of the contact
points on it and the places that it connects to. Use something like fine
sandpaper and then reconnect them. .

Oh - call the dealership and tell them what's going on. Ask them for an
estimate on the diagnosis. You never know, they may just suggest something
that could be wrong if you as all the right questions.

Wish I had the brains to help you get it fixed :)
This link may have some info that can help you too.
http://autozone.com/
search your year and model, then repair guide

Keep us posted on your progress !

Kate


"nelkhour" <nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net> wrote in message
news:nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net...
:
: First and foremost thanks Kate, Mike and Earle for your reply as well as
everyone else.
: I am in Doha, Qatar and Earle is right taking it somewhere to have it
diagnosed is very difficult unless I want to go to the dealer here.
:
: I have checked for spark like kate had suggested and there is no spark
when the engine is cranking.
: I did change the fuel filter, but did not check the fuel pressure. I was
going to check the rotor, distributor cap and finally the coil. I thought
that nothing is wrong with those since it runs fine once it has started.
:
: In terms of testing if there are any issues with the ground strap that
runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. Do I connect the
booster cable to the positive terminal or negative terminal on the battery?
I appologize if this is a stupid question.
:
: Another question, why would these not starting issue just happens when the
car has cooled sufficiently down vs. being warm?
:
: I will try and see how to get the service manual here in Doha.
:
: Again, thank you for all your help which has been very much appreciated.
:
: Nadim
:
:
: --
: nelkhour
:
: ------------------------------------------------------------------------
: View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-360641.html
:
: Send from http://www.carstalk.net
:

KJ.Kate

Hi Again Nadim,

I would try pulling your distributor cap, check it for wear and/or a crack.
You might just go ahead and replace the Cap, rotor AND the little
condenser. (if so equipped)
All of those should be pretty inexpensive.

Have a look at your points. They are cheap too. If you even have points
.....??? I have no idea about Jeeps like yours so I am guessing.

They are pretty inexpensive and something that probabaly needs replacing
anyway. If you DO have points, and you DO replace them, be sure you set the
gap properly.

Also, your coil (if so equipped) may be suspect.

Double, triple check your coil wire connection. Be sure that the ends of the
wire are fully plugged in on both ends, that they protrude far enough out of
the boot to connect firmly.

If you have located the ground strap unbolt it and clean all of the contact
points on it and the places that it connects to. Use something like fine
sandpaper and then reconnect them. .

Oh - call the dealership and tell them what's going on. Ask them for an
estimate on the diagnosis. You never know, they may just suggest something
that could be wrong if you as all the right questions.

Wish I had the brains to help you get it fixed :)
This link may have some info that can help you too.
http://autozone.com/
search your year and model, then repair guide

Keep us posted on your progress !

Kate


"nelkhour" <nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net> wrote in message
news:nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net...
:
: First and foremost thanks Kate, Mike and Earle for your reply as well as
everyone else.
: I am in Doha, Qatar and Earle is right taking it somewhere to have it
diagnosed is very difficult unless I want to go to the dealer here.
:
: I have checked for spark like kate had suggested and there is no spark
when the engine is cranking.
: I did change the fuel filter, but did not check the fuel pressure. I was
going to check the rotor, distributor cap and finally the coil. I thought
that nothing is wrong with those since it runs fine once it has started.
:
: In terms of testing if there are any issues with the ground strap that
runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. Do I connect the
booster cable to the positive terminal or negative terminal on the battery?
I appologize if this is a stupid question.
:
: Another question, why would these not starting issue just happens when the
car has cooled sufficiently down vs. being warm?
:
: I will try and see how to get the service manual here in Doha.
:
: Again, thank you for all your help which has been very much appreciated.
:
: Nadim
:
:
: --
: nelkhour
:
: ------------------------------------------------------------------------
: View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-360641.html
:
: Send from http://www.carstalk.net
:

KJ.Kate

Hi Again Nadim,

I would try pulling your distributor cap, check it for wear and/or a crack.
You might just go ahead and replace the Cap, rotor AND the little
condenser. (if so equipped)
All of those should be pretty inexpensive.

Have a look at your points. They are cheap too. If you even have points
.....??? I have no idea about Jeeps like yours so I am guessing.

They are pretty inexpensive and something that probabaly needs replacing
anyway. If you DO have points, and you DO replace them, be sure you set the
gap properly.

Also, your coil (if so equipped) may be suspect.

Double, triple check your coil wire connection. Be sure that the ends of the
wire are fully plugged in on both ends, that they protrude far enough out of
the boot to connect firmly.

If you have located the ground strap unbolt it and clean all of the contact
points on it and the places that it connects to. Use something like fine
sandpaper and then reconnect them. .

Oh - call the dealership and tell them what's going on. Ask them for an
estimate on the diagnosis. You never know, they may just suggest something
that could be wrong if you as all the right questions.

Wish I had the brains to help you get it fixed :)
This link may have some info that can help you too.
http://autozone.com/
search your year and model, then repair guide

Keep us posted on your progress !

Kate


"nelkhour" <nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net> wrote in message
news:nelkhour.1zqdde@no-mx.carstalk.net...
:
: First and foremost thanks Kate, Mike and Earle for your reply as well as
everyone else.
: I am in Doha, Qatar and Earle is right taking it somewhere to have it
diagnosed is very difficult unless I want to go to the dealer here.
:
: I have checked for spark like kate had suggested and there is no spark
when the engine is cranking.
: I did change the fuel filter, but did not check the fuel pressure. I was
going to check the rotor, distributor cap and finally the coil. I thought
that nothing is wrong with those since it runs fine once it has started.
:
: In terms of testing if there are any issues with the ground strap that
runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. Do I connect the
booster cable to the positive terminal or negative terminal on the battery?
I appologize if this is a stupid question.
:
: Another question, why would these not starting issue just happens when the
car has cooled sufficiently down vs. being warm?
:
: I will try and see how to get the service manual here in Doha.
:
: Again, thank you for all your help which has been very much appreciated.
:
: Nadim
:
:
: --
: nelkhour
:
: ------------------------------------------------------------------------
: View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-360641.html
:
: Send from http://www.carstalk.net
:

KJ.Kate

DIAGNOSIS & TESTING



Secondary Circuit Test

1.. Disconnect the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap.

Twist the rubber boot slightly in either direction, then grasp the boot and
pull straight up. Do not pull on the wire, and do not use pliers.

2.. Hold the wire 1/2 in. (13mm) from a ground with a pair of insulated
pliers and a heavy glove. As the engine is cranked, watch for a spark.

3.. If a spark appears, reconnect the coil wire. Remove the wire from one
spark plug, and test for a spark as above.


WARNING

Do not remove the spark plug wires from cylinders 1 or 5, or
sensor damage could occur!



4.. If a spark occurs, the problem is in the fuel system or with the
ignition timing. If no spark occurs, check for a defective rotor, cap, or
spark plug wires.

5.. If no spark occurs from the coil wire in Step 2, test the coil wire
resistance with an ohmmeter. It should be 7,700-9,300 ohms at +75ºF (24ºC)
or 12,000 ohms maximum at +93ºF (34ºC).

Coil Primary Circuit Test

1.. Turn the ignition ON. Connect a voltmeter to the coil positive (+)
terminal and a ground:

1.. If the voltage is 5.5-6.5 volts, go to Step 2.

2.. If above 7 volts, go to Step 4.

3.. If below 5.5 volts, disconnect the condenser lead and measure. If
the reading with the condenser lead disconnected is now 5.5-6.5 volts, the
condenser is faulty and should be replaced. If the reading is not 5.5-6.5
volts, go to Step 6.

2.. With the tester connected as in Step 1, read the voltage with the
engine cranking. If battery voltage is indicated, the circuit is okay. If
not, go to Step 3.

3.. Check for a short or open in the starter solenoid I-terminal wire.
Check the solenoid for proper operation.

4.. Disconnect the wire from the starter solenoid I-terminal, with the
ignition ON and the voltmeter connected as in Step 1:

1.. If the voltage drops to 5.5-6.5 volts, the solenoid is faulty and
should be replaced.

2.. If the voltage does not drop to 5.5-6.5 volts, connect a jumper
between the coil negative (-) terminal and a ground. If the voltage now
drops to 5.5-6.5 volts, go to Step 5. If not, repair the resistance wire.

5.. Check for continuity between the coil negative (-) terminal and D4,
and between D1 to ground. If the continuity is okay, replace the control
unit. If not, check for an open wire and go back to Step 2.

6.. Turn ignition OFF. Connect an ohmmeter between the + coil terminal and
dash connector AV. If above 1.40 ohms, repair the resistance wire.

7.. With the ignition OFF, connect the ohmmeter between connector AV and
ignition switch terminal 11. If less than 0.1 ohms, replace the ignition
switch or repair the wire, whichever is the cause. If above 0.1 ohms, check
connections, and check for defective wiring.

Coil Test

1.. Check the coil for cracks, carbon tracks, etc., and replace as
necessary.

2.. Connect an ohmmeter across the coil + and - terminals, with the coil
connector removed. If 1.13-1.23 ohms at 75ºF (24ºC), the coil is okay. If
not, replace it.

Control Unit and Sensor Test

1.. With the ignition ON, remove the coil high tension wire from the
distributor cap and hold it 1/2 in. (13mm) from a ground with insulated
pliers. Disengage the 4-wire connector at the control unit. If a spark
occurs (normal), go to Step 2. If not, go to Step 5.

2.. Connect an ohmmeter to D2 and D3. If the resistance is 400-800 ohms
(normal), go to Step 6. If not, go to Step 3.

3.. Disengage, then reconnect the 3-wire connector at distributor. If the
reading is now 400-800 ohms, go to Step 6. If not, disengage the 3-wire
connector and go to Step 4.

4.. Connect the ohmmeter across B2 and B3. If 300-800 ohms, repair the
harness between the 3-wire and 4-wire connectors. If not, replace the
sensor.

5.. Connect the ohmmeter between D1 and the battery negative terminal. If
the reading is 0 (0.002 or less), go to Step 2. If above 0.002 ohms, there
is a bad ground in the cable or at the distributor. Repair the ground and
retest.

6.. Connect a analog voltmeter across D2 and D3. Crank the engine. If the
needle fluctuates, the system is okay. If not, either the trigger wheel is
defective, or the distributor is not turning. Repair or replace as required.

Ignition Feed-to-Control Unit Test

Do not perform this test without first performing the Coil Primary Circuit
Test.

1.. With the ignition ON, unplug the 2-wire connector at the module.
Connect a voltmeter between F2 and ground. If the reading is battery
voltage, replace the control unit and go to Step 3. If not, go to Step 2.

2.. Repair the cause of the voltage reduction: either the ignition switch
or a corroded dash connector. Check for a spark at the coil wire. If okay,
stop. If not, replace the control unit and check for proper operation.

3.. Engage the 2-wire connector at the control unit, then unplug the
4-wire connector at the control unit. Connect an ammeter between C1 and
ground. If it reads 0.9-1.1 amps, the system is okay. If not, replace the
module.

KJ.Kate

DIAGNOSIS & TESTING



Secondary Circuit Test

1.. Disconnect the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap.

Twist the rubber boot slightly in either direction, then grasp the boot and
pull straight up. Do not pull on the wire, and do not use pliers.

2.. Hold the wire 1/2 in. (13mm) from a ground with a pair of insulated
pliers and a heavy glove. As the engine is cranked, watch for a spark.

3.. If a spark appears, reconnect the coil wire. Remove the wire from one
spark plug, and test for a spark as above.


WARNING

Do not remove the spark plug wires from cylinders 1 or 5, or
sensor damage could occur!



4.. If a spark occurs, the problem is in the fuel system or with the
ignition timing. If no spark occurs, check for a defective rotor, cap, or
spark plug wires.

5.. If no spark occurs from the coil wire in Step 2, test the coil wire
resistance with an ohmmeter. It should be 7,700-9,300 ohms at +75ºF (24ºC)
or 12,000 ohms maximum at +93ºF (34ºC).

Coil Primary Circuit Test

1.. Turn the ignition ON. Connect a voltmeter to the coil positive (+)
terminal and a ground:

1.. If the voltage is 5.5-6.5 volts, go to Step 2.

2.. If above 7 volts, go to Step 4.

3.. If below 5.5 volts, disconnect the condenser lead and measure. If
the reading with the condenser lead disconnected is now 5.5-6.5 volts, the
condenser is faulty and should be replaced. If the reading is not 5.5-6.5
volts, go to Step 6.

2.. With the tester connected as in Step 1, read the voltage with the
engine cranking. If battery voltage is indicated, the circuit is okay. If
not, go to Step 3.

3.. Check for a short or open in the starter solenoid I-terminal wire.
Check the solenoid for proper operation.

4.. Disconnect the wire from the starter solenoid I-terminal, with the
ignition ON and the voltmeter connected as in Step 1:

1.. If the voltage drops to 5.5-6.5 volts, the solenoid is faulty and
should be replaced.

2.. If the voltage does not drop to 5.5-6.5 volts, connect a jumper
between the coil negative (-) terminal and a ground. If the voltage now
drops to 5.5-6.5 volts, go to Step 5. If not, repair the resistance wire.

5.. Check for continuity between the coil negative (-) terminal and D4,
and between D1 to ground. If the continuity is okay, replace the control
unit. If not, check for an open wire and go back to Step 2.

6.. Turn ignition OFF. Connect an ohmmeter between the + coil terminal and
dash connector AV. If above 1.40 ohms, repair the resistance wire.

7.. With the ignition OFF, connect the ohmmeter between connector AV and
ignition switch terminal 11. If less than 0.1 ohms, replace the ignition
switch or repair the wire, whichever is the cause. If above 0.1 ohms, check
connections, and check for defective wiring.

Coil Test

1.. Check the coil for cracks, carbon tracks, etc., and replace as
necessary.

2.. Connect an ohmmeter across the coil + and - terminals, with the coil
connector removed. If 1.13-1.23 ohms at 75ºF (24ºC), the coil is okay. If
not, replace it.

Control Unit and Sensor Test

1.. With the ignition ON, remove the coil high tension wire from the
distributor cap and hold it 1/2 in. (13mm) from a ground with insulated
pliers. Disengage the 4-wire connector at the control unit. If a spark
occurs (normal), go to Step 2. If not, go to Step 5.

2.. Connect an ohmmeter to D2 and D3. If the resistance is 400-800 ohms
(normal), go to Step 6. If not, go to Step 3.

3.. Disengage, then reconnect the 3-wire connector at distributor. If the
reading is now 400-800 ohms, go to Step 6. If not, disengage the 3-wire
connector and go to Step 4.

4.. Connect the ohmmeter across B2 and B3. If 300-800 ohms, repair the
harness between the 3-wire and 4-wire connectors. If not, replace the
sensor.

5.. Connect the ohmmeter between D1 and the battery negative terminal. If
the reading is 0 (0.002 or less), go to Step 2. If above 0.002 ohms, there
is a bad ground in the cable or at the distributor. Repair the ground and
retest.

6.. Connect a analog voltmeter across D2 and D3. Crank the engine. If the
needle fluctuates, the system is okay. If not, either the trigger wheel is
defective, or the distributor is not turning. Repair or replace as required.

Ignition Feed-to-Control Unit Test

Do not perform this test without first performing the Coil Primary Circuit
Test.

1.. With the ignition ON, unplug the 2-wire connector at the module.
Connect a voltmeter between F2 and ground. If the reading is battery
voltage, replace the control unit and go to Step 3. If not, go to Step 2.

2.. Repair the cause of the voltage reduction: either the ignition switch
or a corroded dash connector. Check for a spark at the coil wire. If okay,
stop. If not, replace the control unit and check for proper operation.

3.. Engage the 2-wire connector at the control unit, then unplug the
4-wire connector at the control unit. Connect an ammeter between C1 and
ground. If it reads 0.9-1.1 amps, the system is okay. If not, replace the
module.

KJ.Kate

DIAGNOSIS & TESTING



Secondary Circuit Test

1.. Disconnect the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap.

Twist the rubber boot slightly in either direction, then grasp the boot and
pull straight up. Do not pull on the wire, and do not use pliers.

2.. Hold the wire 1/2 in. (13mm) from a ground with a pair of insulated
pliers and a heavy glove. As the engine is cranked, watch for a spark.

3.. If a spark appears, reconnect the coil wire. Remove the wire from one
spark plug, and test for a spark as above.


WARNING

Do not remove the spark plug wires from cylinders 1 or 5, or
sensor damage could occur!



4.. If a spark occurs, the problem is in the fuel system or with the
ignition timing. If no spark occurs, check for a defective rotor, cap, or
spark plug wires.

5.. If no spark occurs from the coil wire in Step 2, test the coil wire
resistance with an ohmmeter. It should be 7,700-9,300 ohms at +75ºF (24ºC)
or 12,000 ohms maximum at +93ºF (34ºC).

Coil Primary Circuit Test

1.. Turn the ignition ON. Connect a voltmeter to the coil positive (+)
terminal and a ground:

1.. If the voltage is 5.5-6.5 volts, go to Step 2.

2.. If above 7 volts, go to Step 4.

3.. If below 5.5 volts, disconnect the condenser lead and measure. If
the reading with the condenser lead disconnected is now 5.5-6.5 volts, the
condenser is faulty and should be replaced. If the reading is not 5.5-6.5
volts, go to Step 6.

2.. With the tester connected as in Step 1, read the voltage with the
engine cranking. If battery voltage is indicated, the circuit is okay. If
not, go to Step 3.

3.. Check for a short or open in the starter solenoid I-terminal wire.
Check the solenoid for proper operation.

4.. Disconnect the wire from the starter solenoid I-terminal, with the
ignition ON and the voltmeter connected as in Step 1:

1.. If the voltage drops to 5.5-6.5 volts, the solenoid is faulty and
should be replaced.

2.. If the voltage does not drop to 5.5-6.5 volts, connect a jumper
between the coil negative (-) terminal and a ground. If the voltage now
drops to 5.5-6.5 volts, go to Step 5. If not, repair the resistance wire.

5.. Check for continuity between the coil negative (-) terminal and D4,
and between D1 to ground. If the continuity is okay, replace the control
unit. If not, check for an open wire and go back to Step 2.

6.. Turn ignition OFF. Connect an ohmmeter between the + coil terminal and
dash connector AV. If above 1.40 ohms, repair the resistance wire.

7.. With the ignition OFF, connect the ohmmeter between connector AV and
ignition switch terminal 11. If less than 0.1 ohms, replace the ignition
switch or repair the wire, whichever is the cause. If above 0.1 ohms, check
connections, and check for defective wiring.

Coil Test

1.. Check the coil for cracks, carbon tracks, etc., and replace as
necessary.

2.. Connect an ohmmeter across the coil + and - terminals, with the coil
connector removed. If 1.13-1.23 ohms at 75ºF (24ºC), the coil is okay. If
not, replace it.

Control Unit and Sensor Test

1.. With the ignition ON, remove the coil high tension wire from the
distributor cap and hold it 1/2 in. (13mm) from a ground with insulated
pliers. Disengage the 4-wire connector at the control unit. If a spark
occurs (normal), go to Step 2. If not, go to Step 5.

2.. Connect an ohmmeter to D2 and D3. If the resistance is 400-800 ohms
(normal), go to Step 6. If not, go to Step 3.

3.. Disengage, then reconnect the 3-wire connector at distributor. If the
reading is now 400-800 ohms, go to Step 6. If not, disengage the 3-wire
connector and go to Step 4.

4.. Connect the ohmmeter across B2 and B3. If 300-800 ohms, repair the
harness between the 3-wire and 4-wire connectors. If not, replace the
sensor.

5.. Connect the ohmmeter between D1 and the battery negative terminal. If
the reading is 0 (0.002 or less), go to Step 2. If above 0.002 ohms, there
is a bad ground in the cable or at the distributor. Repair the ground and
retest.

6.. Connect a analog voltmeter across D2 and D3. Crank the engine. If the
needle fluctuates, the system is okay. If not, either the trigger wheel is
defective, or the distributor is not turning. Repair or replace as required.

Ignition Feed-to-Control Unit Test

Do not perform this test without first performing the Coil Primary Circuit
Test.

1.. With the ignition ON, unplug the 2-wire connector at the module.
Connect a voltmeter between F2 and ground. If the reading is battery
voltage, replace the control unit and go to Step 3. If not, go to Step 2.

2.. Repair the cause of the voltage reduction: either the ignition switch
or a corroded dash connector. Check for a spark at the coil wire. If okay,
stop. If not, replace the control unit and check for proper operation.

3.. Engage the 2-wire connector at the control unit, then unplug the
4-wire connector at the control unit. Connect an ammeter between C1 and
ground. If it reads 0.9-1.1 amps, the system is okay. If not, replace the
module.

Earle Horton

On a '92 I would certainly recommend replacing the cap and rotor, if it
hasn't been done in a long time, or at all. He is saying no spark at all
when cranking. Unless the cap and rotor are real bad, that tends to point
to something else.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43986AA2.4D1C3843@sympatico.ca...
> Use the negative and the booster cable to verify the body ground.
>
> Bad connections can show when cold, then once they arc a bit and things
> warm up they can be ok for a bit.
>
> Bad cold starts can also easily be the distributor cap and rotor....
>
> Another place can be a dirty connection on the starter relay. This is
> where the main positive or usually red battery cable bolts on. At this
> relay are a mess of small wires. If dirty, they can interfere with
> spark while cranking.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> nelkhour wrote:
> >
> > First and foremost thanks Kate, Mike and Earle for your reply as well as
everyone else.
> > I am in Doha, Qatar and Earle is right taking it somewhere to have it
diagnosed is very difficult unless I want to go to the dealer here.
> >
> > I have checked for spark like kate had suggested and there is no spark
when the engine is cranking.
> > I did change the fuel filter, but did not check the fuel pressure. I was
going to check the rotor, distributor cap and finally the coil. I thought
that nothing is wrong with those since it runs fine once it has started.
> >
> > In terms of testing if there are any issues with the ground strap that
runs from the rear of the engine head to the firewall. Do I connect the
booster cable to the positive terminal or negative terminal on the battery?
I appologize if this is a stupid question.
> >
> > Another question, why would these not starting issue just happens when
the car has cooled sufficiently down vs. being warm?
> >
> > I will try and see how to get the service manual here in Doha.
> >
> > Again, thank you for all your help which has been very much appreciated.
> >
> > Nadim
> >
> > --
> > nelkhour
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-360641.html
> >
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