Mighty Monad

If your cooling system checks out okay, you could also try diluting your
coolant mix. A 70/30 or even 80/20 mix might provide you with sufficient
freeze protection (how cold does it get where you are?) and would boost your
mix's summer cooling ability. Water is far superior to coolant in reducing
temperatures. You still need the coolant's corrosion protection and
lubricating characteristics, which the 20-30% coolant in the mix should
provide. If freeze protection is not an issue at all, you can get a small
bottle of anticorrosion/lubricating fluid at most parts stores and run just
water and this fluid for best cooling.

Products like Red Line Water Wetter also work. I run it in one of my high-po
Mustangs and have seen measurable improvements in cooling. IMHO, the best
cooling mix would be Water Wetter, anticorrosion/lubricating fluid, and
water. No freeze protection, but that mix would allow you to get the
absolute maximum capability out of your stock system and would be cheaper
(although not as trick) in the short-to-medium run than a Be Cool radiator.

Mighty Monad

"Hawkman" <samj344@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:93a5123b.0307072326.415bd77e@posting.google.c om...
> I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with an Automatic (bought new).
> 26000 or so miles, and 32" BFG All-terrain tires with NO lift. I
> live in Las Vegas and right now it is about 110 degrees out everyday.
> I've had the same problem every summer that I have been here. Two
> years ago, I took my jeep in for the same problem I have today, the
> engine temperature goes up to the red line when I have the A/C on for
> a few minutes and am running idle. Today, I was just sitting at the
> forever-long stop light for about 5-7 minutes. I watched the
> temperature rise and rise, until it said CHECK GAUGES. I immediately
> turned on my heater and (opened the windows)and watched the temp go
> down. Is this really normal.
> However, when I drive on the freeway, or am not stopped, the
> temperature is fine, but it can go a little above mid-way (sometimes
> upto 3/4 if you drive with A/C on for about an hour). Also when I
> drive on the freeway, the air is much cooler than at idle.
>
> I took my Jeep into the JEEP Dealer here two years ago, and they said
> that was normal. They checked my fluids and fan and said nothing is
> wrong. They said it is normal for the temperature to go up a bit and
> that I shouldn't listen to the gauge all the time. My warranty is now
> over, and if I go in again, they will charge $70 for a diagnostic fee.
> IS THIS REALLY NORMAL? It does not make any sense for a car this new
> to overheat and be NORMAL? Well thats what they claim at the major
> Jeep dealership here.
>
> I am going to be moving late this summer, and will require a U-Haul.
> I am very worried that my car will overheat if I leave it like this.
> I will have to go through Colorado and through the mountains/hills.
> That will put a lot of stress on the car with this heat and the
> U-Haul. If nothing is really wrong, would an extra engine fan help?
> Or do you have any suggestions? Should I take it someplace else?
> Should I try the other Jeep dealership and pay the $70 diagnostic fee?
>
> Thanks

Hawkman

I am moving to Iowa in August, So it will definitely get cold and
blizzard conditions. So I will be seeing both extremes from Vegas to
Iowa. Does anyone have any suggestions for an extra fan? Brand? or
model that works well? Where can I buy one? Also, My coolant is the
green color. Do you think I should consider buying an extra fan? or
should I buy an aftermarket radiator instead? Any suggestions would
be great. Any ideas for my trip with the U-Haul? Anyone have any
problems taking a 5x8 with a TJ? Also, I have seen TJs with Class III
hitches. Does it make a difference if I buy a class II or III (as
long as I dont go above the car's tow limit)? Again its a 4.0
automatic.

Thanks



"Mighty Monad" <mighty_monad@spammer.go.awaywolftechnology.net> wrote in message news:<LiCOa.67267$n%5.40100@nwrddc02.gnilink.net>. ..
> If your cooling system checks out okay, you could also try diluting your
> coolant mix. A 70/30 or even 80/20 mix might provide you with sufficient
> freeze protection (how cold does it get where you are?) and would boost your
> mix's summer cooling ability. Water is far superior to coolant in reducing
> temperatures. You still need the coolant's corrosion protection and
> lubricating characteristics, which the 20-30% coolant in the mix should
> provide. If freeze protection is not an issue at all, you can get a small
> bottle of anticorrosion/lubricating fluid at most parts stores and run just
> water and this fluid for best cooling.
>
> Products like Red Line Water Wetter also work. I run it in one of my high-po
> Mustangs and have seen measurable improvements in cooling. IMHO, the best
> cooling mix would be Water Wetter, anticorrosion/lubricating fluid, and
> water. No freeze protection, but that mix would allow you to get the
> absolute maximum capability out of your stock system and would be cheaper
> (although not as trick) in the short-to-medium run than a Be Cool radiator.
>
> Mighty Monad
>
> "Hawkman" <samj344@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:93a5123b.0307072326.415bd77e@posting.google.c om...
> > I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with an Automatic (bought new).
> > 26000 or so miles, and 32" BFG All-terrain tires with NO lift. I
> > live in Las Vegas and right now it is about 110 degrees out everyday.
> > I've had the same problem every summer that I have been here. Two
> > years ago, I took my jeep in for the same problem I have today, the
> > engine temperature goes up to the red line when I have the A/C on for
> > a few minutes and am running idle. Today, I was just sitting at the
> > forever-long stop light for about 5-7 minutes. I watched the
> > temperature rise and rise, until it said CHECK GAUGES. I immediately
> > turned on my heater and (opened the windows)and watched the temp go
> > down. Is this really normal.
> > However, when I drive on the freeway, or am not stopped, the
> > temperature is fine, but it can go a little above mid-way (sometimes
> > upto 3/4 if you drive with A/C on for about an hour). Also when I
> > drive on the freeway, the air is much cooler than at idle.
> >
> > I took my Jeep into the JEEP Dealer here two years ago, and they said
> > that was normal. They checked my fluids and fan and said nothing is
> > wrong. They said it is normal for the temperature to go up a bit and
> > that I shouldn't listen to the gauge all the time. My warranty is now
> > over, and if I go in again, they will charge $70 for a diagnostic fee.
> > IS THIS REALLY NORMAL? It does not make any sense for a car this new
> > to overheat and be NORMAL? Well thats what they claim at the major
> > Jeep dealership here.
> >
> > I am going to be moving late this summer, and will require a U-Haul.
> > I am very worried that my car will overheat if I leave it like this.
> > I will have to go through Colorado and through the mountains/hills.
> > That will put a lot of stress on the car with this heat and the
> > U-Haul. If nothing is really wrong, would an extra engine fan help?
> > Or do you have any suggestions? Should I take it someplace else?
> > Should I try the other Jeep dealership and pay the $70 diagnostic fee?
> >
> > Thanks

Roy Jenson

Beware: U-haul will not rent a trailer to a Jeep with a soft top.

Do buy a class III with the 2" receiver, preferably a new bumper with an integrated hitch. When you are done towing you can pull the ball
mount out and avoid banging your shins. Then use the mount for a bike rack, tow hook, load platform, etc.

The 5'x8' is the biggest trailer that you want to attempt with a TJ. It is a heavy trailer so you can easily load more stuff than your
load rating. Boxes of books are incrediably heavy! And BELIEVE the 2000 pound load rating. The TJ will pull more than that, it just won't
stop in a straight line, especially if it is windy or wet.

Hawkman wrote:

> I am moving to Iowa in August, So it will definitely get cold and
> blizzard conditions. So I will be seeing both extremes from Vegas to
> Iowa. Does anyone have any suggestions for an extra fan? Brand? or
> model that works well? Where can I buy one? Also, My coolant is the
> green color. Do you think I should consider buying an extra fan? or
> should I buy an aftermarket radiator instead? Any suggestions would
> be great. Any ideas for my trip with the U-Haul? Anyone have any
> problems taking a 5x8 with a TJ? Also, I have seen TJs with Class III
> hitches. Does it make a difference if I buy a class II or III (as
> long as I dont go above the car's tow limit)? Again its a 4.0
> automatic.
>
> Thanks
>
> "Mighty Monad" <mighty_monad@spammer.go.awaywolftechnology.net> wrote in message news:<LiCOa.67267$n%5.40100@nwrddc02.gnilink.net>. ..
> > If your cooling system checks out okay, you could also try diluting your
> > coolant mix. A 70/30 or even 80/20 mix might provide you with sufficient
> > freeze protection (how cold does it get where you are?) and would boost your
> > mix's summer cooling ability. Water is far superior to coolant in reducing
> > temperatures. You still need the coolant's corrosion protection and
> > lubricating characteristics, which the 20-30% coolant in the mix should
> > provide. If freeze protection is not an issue at all, you can get a small
> > bottle of anticorrosion/lubricating fluid at most parts stores and run just
> > water and this fluid for best cooling.
> >
> > Products like Red Line Water Wetter also work. I run it in one of my high-po
> > Mustangs and have seen measurable improvements in cooling. IMHO, the best
> > cooling mix would be Water Wetter, anticorrosion/lubricating fluid, and
> > water. No freeze protection, but that mix would allow you to get the
> > absolute maximum capability out of your stock system and would be cheaper
> > (although not as trick) in the short-to-medium run than a Be Cool radiator.
> >
> > Mighty Monad
> >
> > "Hawkman" <samj344@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:93a5123b.0307072326.415bd77e@posting.google.c om...
> > > I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with an Automatic (bought new).
> > > 26000 or so miles, and 32" BFG All-terrain tires with NO lift. I
> > > live in Las Vegas and right now it is about 110 degrees out everyday.
> > > I've had the same problem every summer that I have been here. Two
> > > years ago, I took my jeep in for the same problem I have today, the
> > > engine temperature goes up to the red line when I have the A/C on for
> > > a few minutes and am running idle. Today, I was just sitting at the
> > > forever-long stop light for about 5-7 minutes. I watched the
> > > temperature rise and rise, until it said CHECK GAUGES. I immediately
> > > turned on my heater and (opened the windows)and watched the temp go
> > > down. Is this really normal.
> > > However, when I drive on the freeway, or am not stopped, the
> > > temperature is fine, but it can go a little above mid-way (sometimes
> > > upto 3/4 if you drive with A/C on for about an hour). Also when I
> > > drive on the freeway, the air is much cooler than at idle.
> > >
> > > I took my Jeep into the JEEP Dealer here two years ago, and they said
> > > that was normal. They checked my fluids and fan and said nothing is
> > > wrong. They said it is normal for the temperature to go up a bit and
> > > that I shouldn't listen to the gauge all the time. My warranty is now
> > > over, and if I go in again, they will charge $70 for a diagnostic fee.
> > > IS THIS REALLY NORMAL? It does not make any sense for a car this new
> > > to overheat and be NORMAL? Well thats what they claim at the major
> > > Jeep dealership here.
> > >
> > > I am going to be moving late this summer, and will require a U-Haul.
> > > I am very worried that my car will overheat if I leave it like this.
> > > I will have to go through Colorado and through the mountains/hills.
> > > That will put a lot of stress on the car with this heat and the
> > > U-Haul. If nothing is really wrong, would an extra engine fan help?
> > > Or do you have any suggestions? Should I take it someplace else?
> > > Should I try the other Jeep dealership and pay the $70 diagnostic fee?
> > >
> > > Thanks

Hawkman

I bought new quietpad brake pads from PepBoys about 10,000 miles ago.
However, I believe my rotors are almost gone. PepBoys was stupid and
resurfaced them 5 times. So, do you recommend changing to another
brake rotor or system?? Any other suggestions would be great.

Thanks


"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-dtbwjtXEOdH2@anon.none.net>...
> After renting an open U-haul 5x12 last weekend I would completely
> agree. For some reason, all of the single axle trailers they have
> seem to shove the axle right up in the center of the trailer which
> makes getting a good load distribution really tough. My MJ has a 122"
> wheelbase and that trailer was a bitch to load and tow. I don't think
> I ever pulled anything harder to tow! It was so bad that after about
> a mile I pulled over and checked to see if it had a brake I didn't
> know about or if the hubs were getting hot. I doubt I had even a ton
> on the trailer but it was harder to pull than the 4 ton hay trailers I
> was pulling (slowly) last summer. And believe what everyone tells you
> about braking - stock Jeep brakes are the worst part of pulling a
> load.
>
> On Tue, 8 Jul 2003 22:20:45 UTC Roy Jenson <rkjenson@qwest.net> wrote:
>
> > Beware: U-haul will not rent a trailer to a Jeep with a soft top.
> >
> > Do buy a class III with the 2" receiver, preferably a new bumper with an integrated hitch. When you are done towing you can pull the ball
> > mount out and avoid banging your shins. Then use the mount for a bike rack, tow hook, load platform, etc.
> >
> > The 5'x8' is the biggest trailer that you want to attempt with a TJ. It is a heavy trailer so you can easily load more stuff than your
> > load rating. Boxes of books are incrediably heavy! And BELIEVE the 2000 pound load rating. The TJ will pull more than that, it just won't
> > stop in a straight line, especially if it is windy or wet.
> >
> > Hawkman wrote:
> >
> > > I am moving to Iowa in August, So it will definitely get cold and
> > > blizzard conditions. So I will be seeing both extremes from Vegas to
> > > Iowa. Does anyone have any suggestions for an extra fan? Brand? or
> > > model that works well? Where can I buy one? Also, My coolant is the
> > > green color. Do you think I should consider buying an extra fan? or
> > > should I buy an aftermarket radiator instead? Any suggestions would
> > > be great. Any ideas for my trip with the U-Haul? Anyone have any
> > > problems taking a 5x8 with a TJ? Also, I have seen TJs with Class III
> > > hitches. Does it make a difference if I buy a class II or III (as
> > > long as I dont go above the car's tow limit)? Again its a 4.0
> > > automatic.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > "Mighty Monad" <mighty_monad@spammer.go.awaywolftechnology.net> wrote in message news:<LiCOa.67267$n%5.40100@nwrddc02.gnilink.net>. ..
> > > > If your cooling system checks out okay, you could also try diluting your
> > > > coolant mix. A 70/30 or even 80/20 mix might provide you with sufficient
> > > > freeze protection (how cold does it get where you are?) and would boost your
> > > > mix's summer cooling ability. Water is far superior to coolant in reducing
> > > > temperatures. You still need the coolant's corrosion protection and
> > > > lubricating characteristics, which the 20-30% coolant in the mix should
> > > > provide. If freeze protection is not an issue at all, you can get a small
> > > > bottle of anticorrosion/lubricating fluid at most parts stores and run just
> > > > water and this fluid for best cooling.
> > > >
> > > > Products like Red Line Water Wetter also work. I run it in one of my high-po
> > > > Mustangs and have seen measurable improvements in cooling. IMHO, the best
> > > > cooling mix would be Water Wetter, anticorrosion/lubricating fluid, and
> > > > water. No freeze protection, but that mix would allow you to get the
> > > > absolute maximum capability out of your stock system and would be cheaper
> > > > (although not as trick) in the short-to-medium run than a Be Cool radiator.
> > > >
> > > > Mighty Monad
> > > >
> > > > "Hawkman" <samj344@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:93a5123b.0307072326.415bd77e@posting.google.c om...
> > > > > I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with an Automatic (bought new).
> > > > > 26000 or so miles, and 32" BFG All-terrain tires with NO lift. I
> > > > > live in Las Vegas and right now it is about 110 degrees out everyday.
> > > > > I've had the same problem every summer that I have been here. Two
> > > > > years ago, I took my jeep in for the same problem I have today, the
> > > > > engine temperature goes up to the red line when I have the A/C on for
> > > > > a few minutes and am running idle. Today, I was just sitting at the
> > > > > forever-long stop light for about 5-7 minutes. I watched the
> > > > > temperature rise and rise, until it said CHECK GAUGES. I immediately
> > > > > turned on my heater and (opened the windows)and watched the temp go
> > > > > down. Is this really normal.
> > > > > However, when I drive on the freeway, or am not stopped, the
> > > > > temperature is fine, but it can go a little above mid-way (sometimes
> > > > > upto 3/4 if you drive with A/C on for about an hour). Also when I
> > > > > drive on the freeway, the air is much cooler than at idle.
> > > > >
> > > > > I took my Jeep into the JEEP Dealer here two years ago, and they said
> > > > > that was normal. They checked my fluids and fan and said nothing is
> > > > > wrong. They said it is normal for the temperature to go up a bit and
> > > > > that I shouldn't listen to the gauge all the time. My warranty is now
> > > > > over, and if I go in again, they will charge $70 for a diagnostic fee.
> > > > > IS THIS REALLY NORMAL? It does not make any sense for a car this new
> > > > > to overheat and be NORMAL? Well thats what they claim at the major
> > > > > Jeep dealership here.
> > > > >
> > > > > I am going to be moving late this summer, and will require a U-Haul.
> > > > > I am very worried that my car will overheat if I leave it like this.
> > > > > I will have to go through Colorado and through the mountains/hills.
> > > > > That will put a lot of stress on the car with this heat and the
> > > > > U-Haul. If nothing is really wrong, would an extra engine fan help?
> > > > > Or do you have any suggestions? Should I take it someplace else?
> > > > > Should I try the other Jeep dealership and pay the $70 diagnostic fee?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> >

Roy Jenson

Re: turning brake rotors: I am getting closer and closer to just saying 'Don't do that', get new ones. The later model rotors are so thin that
they warp easily. If you turn a warped rotor, the heat buildup just warps them again. My shop does a great job of turning the rotors including
the final 'swirl' finish to enhance breakin for $12 each. If I have them do any more I will tell them to stop at .040" cut and scrap them rather
than trying to salvage them .

Don't have any suggestions on brake pads. I have been using Motocraft pads on my Ford products: good brake capabilities, they don't gouge the
rotors, get 75k miles, NO BRAKE dust, and they don't squeak. Some of the all metalic ones are better at stopping but they gouge and squeak
badly.

Hawkman wrote:

> I bought new quietpad brake pads from PepBoys about 10,000 miles ago.
> However, I believe my rotors are almost gone. PepBoys was stupid and
> resurfaced them 5 times. So, do you recommend changing to another
> brake rotor or system?? Any other suggestions would be great.
>
> Thanks
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-dtbwjtXEOdH2@anon.none.net>...
> > After renting an open U-haul 5x12 last weekend I would completely
> > agree. For some reason, all of the single axle trailers they have
> > seem to shove the axle right up in the center of the trailer which
> > makes getting a good load distribution really tough. My MJ has a 122"
> > wheelbase and that trailer was a bitch to load and tow. I don't think
> > I ever pulled anything harder to tow! It was so bad that after about
> > a mile I pulled over and checked to see if it had a brake I didn't
> > know about or if the hubs were getting hot. I doubt I had even a ton
> > on the trailer but it was harder to pull than the 4 ton hay trailers I
> > was pulling (slowly) last summer. And believe what everyone tells you
> > about braking - stock Jeep brakes are the worst part of pulling a
> > load.
> >
> > On Tue, 8 Jul 2003 22:20:45 UTC Roy Jenson <rkjenson@qwest.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Beware: U-haul will not rent a trailer to a Jeep with a soft top.
> > >
> > > Do buy a class III with the 2" receiver, preferably a new bumper with an integrated hitch. When you are done towing you can pull the ball
> > > mount out and avoid banging your shins. Then use the mount for a bike rack, tow hook, load platform, etc.
> > >
> > > The 5'x8' is the biggest trailer that you want to attempt with a TJ. It is a heavy trailer so you can easily load more stuff than your
> > > load rating. Boxes of books are incrediably heavy! And BELIEVE the 2000 pound load rating. The TJ will pull more than that, it just won't
> > > stop in a straight line, especially if it is windy or wet.
> > >
> > > Hawkman wrote:
> > >
> > > > I am moving to Iowa in August, So it will definitely get cold and
> > > > blizzard conditions. So I will be seeing both extremes from Vegas to
> > > > Iowa. Does anyone have any suggestions for an extra fan? Brand? or
> > > > model that works well? Where can I buy one? Also, My coolant is the
> > > > green color. Do you think I should consider buying an extra fan? or
> > > > should I buy an aftermarket radiator instead? Any suggestions would
> > > > be great. Any ideas for my trip with the U-Haul? Anyone have any
> > > > problems taking a 5x8 with a TJ? Also, I have seen TJs with Class III
> > > > hitches. Does it make a difference if I buy a class II or III (as
> > > > long as I dont go above the car's tow limit)? Again its a 4.0
> > > > automatic.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > "Mighty Monad" <mighty_monad@spammer.go.awaywolftechnology.net> wrote in message news:<LiCOa.67267$n%5.40100@nwrddc02.gnilink.net>. ..
> > > > > If your cooling system checks out okay, you could also try diluting your
> > > > > coolant mix. A 70/30 or even 80/20 mix might provide you with sufficient
> > > > > freeze protection (how cold does it get where you are?) and would boost your
> > > > > mix's summer cooling ability. Water is far superior to coolant in reducing
> > > > > temperatures. You still need the coolant's corrosion protection and
> > > > > lubricating characteristics, which the 20-30% coolant in the mix should
> > > > > provide. If freeze protection is not an issue at all, you can get a small
> > > > > bottle of anticorrosion/lubricating fluid at most parts stores and run just
> > > > > water and this fluid for best cooling.
> > > > >
> > > > > Products like Red Line Water Wetter also work. I run it in one of my high-po
> > > > > Mustangs and have seen measurable improvements in cooling. IMHO, the best
> > > > > cooling mix would be Water Wetter, anticorrosion/lubricating fluid, and
> > > > > water. No freeze protection, but that mix would allow you to get the
> > > > > absolute maximum capability out of your stock system and would be cheaper
> > > > > (although not as trick) in the short-to-medium run than a Be Cool radiator.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mighty Monad
> > > > >
> > > > > "Hawkman" <samj344@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:93a5123b.0307072326.415bd77e@posting.google.c om...
> > > > > > I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with an Automatic (bought new).
> > > > > > 26000 or so miles, and 32" BFG All-terrain tires with NO lift. I
> > > > > > live in Las Vegas and right now it is about 110 degrees out everyday.
> > > > > > I've had the same problem every summer that I have been here. Two
> > > > > > years ago, I took my jeep in for the same problem I have today, the
> > > > > > engine temperature goes up to the red line when I have the A/C on for
> > > > > > a few minutes and am running idle. Today, I was just sitting at the
> > > > > > forever-long stop light for about 5-7 minutes. I watched the
> > > > > > temperature rise and rise, until it said CHECK GAUGES. I immediately
> > > > > > turned on my heater and (opened the windows)and watched the temp go
> > > > > > down. Is this really normal.
> > > > > > However, when I drive on the freeway, or am not stopped, the
> > > > > > temperature is fine, but it can go a little above mid-way (sometimes
> > > > > > upto 3/4 if you drive with A/C on for about an hour). Also when I
> > > > > > drive on the freeway, the air is much cooler than at idle.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I took my Jeep into the JEEP Dealer here two years ago, and they said
> > > > > > that was normal. They checked my fluids and fan and said nothing is
> > > > > > wrong. They said it is normal for the temperature to go up a bit and
> > > > > > that I shouldn't listen to the gauge all the time. My warranty is now
> > > > > > over, and if I go in again, they will charge $70 for a diagnostic fee.
> > > > > > IS THIS REALLY NORMAL? It does not make any sense for a car this new
> > > > > > to overheat and be NORMAL? Well thats what they claim at the major
> > > > > > Jeep dealership here.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I am going to be moving late this summer, and will require a U-Haul.
> > > > > > I am very worried that my car will overheat if I leave it like this.
> > > > > > I will have to go through Colorado and through the mountains/hills.
> > > > > > That will put a lot of stress on the car with this heat and the
> > > > > > U-Haul. If nothing is really wrong, would an extra engine fan help?
> > > > > > Or do you have any suggestions? Should I take it someplace else?
> > > > > > Should I try the other Jeep dealership and pay the $70 diagnostic fee?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks
> > >

Chris Buss

If your move to Iowa is permanent, I would not do anything about the
overheating in Las Vegas. While Iowa gets hot and humid in the summer it
never approaches the heat in Las Vegas. I would only put in a different
thermostat as another poster recommended and maybe just switch to water
for a coolant for the duration you are in Las Vegas.

As for moving, if you can afford to rent a uhaul truck and trailer the
TJ that would probably be your safest bet.

Chris

Hawkman wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, I have a hard top, so that is not a problem.
> Also, anyone else have any suggestions for fans? Any specific brands
> I should look for?
>
> Thanks
>
> Roy Jenson <rkjenson@qwest.net> wrote in message news:<3F0B43BC.C40C50A6@qwest.net>...
> > Beware: U-haul will not rent a trailer to a Jeep with a soft top.
> >
> > Do buy a class III with the 2" receiver, preferably a new bumper with an integrated hitch. When you are done towing you can pull the ball
> > mount out and avoid banging your shins. Then use the mount for a bike rack, tow hook, load platform, etc.
> >
> > The 5'x8' is the biggest trailer that you want to attempt with a TJ. It is a heavy trailer so you can easily load more stuff than your
> > load rating. Boxes of books are incrediably heavy! And BELIEVE the 2000 pound load rating. The TJ will pull more than that, it just won't
> > stop in a straight line, especially if it is windy or wet.
> >
> > Hawkman wrote:
> >
> > > I am moving to Iowa in August, So it will definitely get cold and
> > > blizzard conditions. So I will be seeing both extremes from Vegas to
> > > Iowa. Does anyone have any suggestions for an extra fan? Brand? or
> > > model that works well? Where can I buy one? Also, My coolant is the
> > > green color. Do you think I should consider buying an extra fan? or
> > > should I buy an aftermarket radiator instead? Any suggestions would
> > > be great. Any ideas for my trip with the U-Haul? Anyone have any
> > > problems taking a 5x8 with a TJ? Also, I have seen TJs with Class III
> > > hitches. Does it make a difference if I buy a class II or III (as
> > > long as I dont go above the car's tow limit)? Again its a 4.0
> > > automatic.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > "Mighty Monad" <mighty_monad@spammer.go.awaywolftechnology.net> wrote in message news:<LiCOa.67267$n%5.40100@nwrddc02.gnilink.net>. ..
> > > > If your cooling system checks out okay, you could also try diluting your
> > > > coolant mix. A 70/30 or even 80/20 mix might provide you with sufficient
> > > > freeze protection (how cold does it get where you are?) and would boost your
> > > > mix's summer cooling ability. Water is far superior to coolant in reducing
> > > > temperatures. You still need the coolant's corrosion protection and
> > > > lubricating characteristics, which the 20-30% coolant in the mix should
> > > > provide. If freeze protection is not an issue at all, you can get a small
> > > > bottle of anticorrosion/lubricating fluid at most parts stores and run just
> > > > water and this fluid for best cooling.
> > > >
> > > > Products like Red Line Water Wetter also work. I run it in one of my high-po
> > > > Mustangs and have seen measurable improvements in cooling. IMHO, the best
> > > > cooling mix would be Water Wetter, anticorrosion/lubricating fluid, and
> > > > water. No freeze protection, but that mix would allow you to get the
> > > > absolute maximum capability out of your stock system and would be cheaper
> > > > (although not as trick) in the short-to-medium run than a Be Cool radiator.
> > > >
> > > > Mighty Monad
> > > >
> > > > "Hawkman" <samj344@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:93a5123b.0307072326.415bd77e@posting.google.c om...
> > > > > I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L with an Automatic (bought new).
> > > > > 26000 or so miles, and 32" BFG All-terrain tires with NO lift. I
> > > > > live in Las Vegas and right now it is about 110 degrees out everyday.
> > > > > I've had the same problem every summer that I have been here. Two
> > > > > years ago, I took my jeep in for the same problem I have today, the
> > > > > engine temperature goes up to the red line when I have the A/C on for
> > > > > a few minutes and am running idle. Today, I was just sitting at the
> > > > > forever-long stop light for about 5-7 minutes. I watched the
> > > > > temperature rise and rise, until it said CHECK GAUGES. I immediately
> > > > > turned on my heater and (opened the windows)and watched the temp go
> > > > > down. Is this really normal.
> > > > > However, when I drive on the freeway, or am not stopped, the
> > > > > temperature is fine, but it can go a little above mid-way (sometimes
> > > > > upto 3/4 if you drive with A/C on for about an hour). Also when I
> > > > > drive on the freeway, the air is much cooler than at idle.
> > > > >
> > > > > I took my Jeep into the JEEP Dealer here two years ago, and they said
> > > > > that was normal. They checked my fluids and fan and said nothing is
> > > > > wrong. They said it is normal for the temperature to go up a bit and
> > > > > that I shouldn't listen to the gauge all the time. My warranty is now
> > > > > over, and if I go in again, they will charge $70 for a diagnostic fee.
> > > > > IS THIS REALLY NORMAL? It does not make any sense for a car this new
> > > > > to overheat and be NORMAL? Well thats what they claim at the major
> > > > > Jeep dealership here.
> > > > >
> > > > > I am going to be moving late this summer, and will require a U-Haul.
> > > > > I am very worried that my car will overheat if I leave it like this.
> > > > > I will have to go through Colorado and through the mountains/hills.
> > > > > That will put a lot of stress on the car with this heat and the
> > > > > U-Haul. If nothing is really wrong, would an extra engine fan help?
> > > > > Or do you have any suggestions? Should I take it someplace else?
> > > > > Should I try the other Jeep dealership and pay the $70 diagnostic fee?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks