Radiator help
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
rad cap opening.
If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Greg wrote:
>
> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for a
> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in daughter's
> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So question
> is, what exactly does that intail?
the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
rad cap opening.
If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Greg wrote:
>
> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for a
> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in daughter's
> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So question
> is, what exactly does that intail?
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
rad cap opening.
If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Greg wrote:
>
> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for a
> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in daughter's
> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So question
> is, what exactly does that intail?
the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
rad cap opening.
If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Greg wrote:
>
> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for a
> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in daughter's
> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So question
> is, what exactly does that intail?
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
rad cap opening.
If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Greg wrote:
>
> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for a
> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in daughter's
> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So question
> is, what exactly does that intail?
the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
rad cap opening.
If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Greg wrote:
>
> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for a
> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in daughter's
> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So question
> is, what exactly does that intail?
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
that, just run the front up and open cap.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
>
> Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> rad cap opening.
>
> If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Greg wrote:
>>
>> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
>> a
>> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
>> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
>> daughter's
>> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
>> question
>> is, what exactly does that intail?
the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
that, just run the front up and open cap.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
>
> Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> rad cap opening.
>
> If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Greg wrote:
>>
>> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
>> a
>> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
>> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
>> daughter's
>> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
>> question
>> is, what exactly does that intail?
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
that, just run the front up and open cap.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
>
> Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> rad cap opening.
>
> If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Greg wrote:
>>
>> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
>> a
>> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
>> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
>> daughter's
>> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
>> question
>> is, what exactly does that intail?
the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
that, just run the front up and open cap.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
>
> Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> rad cap opening.
>
> If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Greg wrote:
>>
>> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
>> a
>> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
>> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
>> daughter's
>> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
>> question
>> is, what exactly does that intail?
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
that, just run the front up and open cap.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
>
> Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> rad cap opening.
>
> If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Greg wrote:
>>
>> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
>> a
>> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
>> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
>> daughter's
>> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
>> question
>> is, what exactly does that intail?
the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
that, just run the front up and open cap.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
>
> Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> rad cap opening.
>
> If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Greg wrote:
>>
>> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
>> a
>> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
>> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
>> daughter's
>> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
>> question
>> is, what exactly does that intail?
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Yup.
By today it might even have already settled the air out by gravity.
Mike
Greg wrote:
>
> Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
> the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
> that, just run the front up and open cap.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> > Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> > the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> > the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
> >
> > Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> > and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> > keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> > t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> > rad cap opening.
> >
> > If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> > might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Greg wrote:
> >>
> >> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
> >> a
> >> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> >> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
> >> daughter's
> >> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
> >> question
> >> is, what exactly does that intail?
By today it might even have already settled the air out by gravity.
Mike
Greg wrote:
>
> Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
> the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
> that, just run the front up and open cap.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> > Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> > the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> > the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
> >
> > Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> > and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> > keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> > t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> > rad cap opening.
> >
> > If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> > might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Greg wrote:
> >>
> >> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
> >> a
> >> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> >> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
> >> daughter's
> >> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
> >> question
> >> is, what exactly does that intail?
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Yup.
By today it might even have already settled the air out by gravity.
Mike
Greg wrote:
>
> Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
> the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
> that, just run the front up and open cap.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> > Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> > the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> > the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
> >
> > Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> > and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> > keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> > t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> > rad cap opening.
> >
> > If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> > might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Greg wrote:
> >>
> >> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
> >> a
> >> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> >> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
> >> daughter's
> >> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
> >> question
> >> is, what exactly does that intail?
By today it might even have already settled the air out by gravity.
Mike
Greg wrote:
>
> Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
> the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
> that, just run the front up and open cap.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> > Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> > the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> > the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
> >
> > Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> > and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> > keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> > t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> > rad cap opening.
> >
> > If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> > might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Greg wrote:
> >>
> >> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
> >> a
> >> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> >> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
> >> daughter's
> >> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
> >> question
> >> is, what exactly does that intail?
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Yup.
By today it might even have already settled the air out by gravity.
Mike
Greg wrote:
>
> Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
> the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
> that, just run the front up and open cap.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> > Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> > the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> > the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
> >
> > Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> > and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> > keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> > t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> > rad cap opening.
> >
> > If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> > might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Greg wrote:
> >>
> >> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
> >> a
> >> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> >> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
> >> daughter's
> >> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
> >> question
> >> is, what exactly does that intail?
By today it might even have already settled the air out by gravity.
Mike
Greg wrote:
>
> Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then
> the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try
> that, just run the front up and open cap.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:423C3324.37D1A9D@sympatico.ca...
> > Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in
> > the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from
> > the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
> >
> > Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it
> > and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to
> > keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the
> > t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the
> > rad cap opening.
> >
> > If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you
> > might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Greg wrote:
> >>
> >> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
> >> a
> >> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> >> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
> >> daughter's
> >> YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So
> >> question
> >> is, what exactly does that intail?
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Radiator help
Greg (greglc84@hotmail.com) wrote on Friday 18 March 2005 08:32 pm:
> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
> a
> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
> daughter's YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the
> radiator. So question is, what exactly does that intail?
Greg,
The easiest way I found to burp the radiator is to fill the radiator with
the heater line from the thermostat housing disconnected. When you see
fluid starting to appear in the thermostat housing, pop the line back on
and tighten it down. Most of the air will be out by then, and your block
will be full of antifreeze (the -really- important thing).
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891
> Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for
> a
> few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went
> back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in
> daughter's YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the
> radiator. So question is, what exactly does that intail?
Greg,
The easiest way I found to burp the radiator is to fill the radiator with
the heater line from the thermostat housing disconnected. When you see
fluid starting to appear in the thermostat housing, pop the line back on
and tighten it down. Most of the air will be out by then, and your block
will be full of antifreeze (the -really- important thing).
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891