Endo

Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires. The
previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and now
it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron out
and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a mess
and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I guess
it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires for
any install.

Shawn


"VJF" <noip@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:7Iryc.144902$hY.55280@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
> I read this group everyday but never have anything really to say. You
> guys provide great info to everyone that asks.
>
>
> I have a easy question for you. I am replacing the factory stereo with
> a cd player. I have the wiring harness but cannot find the wiring
> diagram for it. I have the Haynes manual but it does not list it either.
>
>
> This is from the cd player:
>
> http://home.rochester.rr.com/kidwiz/...%20diagram.jpg
>
>
> Now I need the same thing from the jeep.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Cenzo
> 95 YJ

DougW

Endo did pass the time by typing:
> Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires. The
> previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and now
> it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron out
> and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a mess
> and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I guess
> it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires for
> any install.

More like they don't trust the kiddos with soldering irons. :)
And after seeing some "box store" installs, I wouldn't either.

Ever seen a 200W amp being powered by a long *** run of AC extension cord?
Twas a sad looking and sounding system. Amazing what the proper wire did.
Just hope the kid didn't pop his eardrums.

One of the drawbacks in using a stock harness is the car makers tend to use
the thinnest (cheapest, lightest) wire they can get away with. Higher end
stereos don't work well with high loss speaker wire and teeny tiny power feeds.

Generally I steer clear of using any OEM harness in a quality stereo install.
If your just replacing the head then it should be fine, but you can get so
much more with some extra time and quality parts.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

Endo did pass the time by typing:
> Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires. The
> previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and now
> it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron out
> and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a mess
> and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I guess
> it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires for
> any install.

More like they don't trust the kiddos with soldering irons. :)
And after seeing some "box store" installs, I wouldn't either.

Ever seen a 200W amp being powered by a long *** run of AC extension cord?
Twas a sad looking and sounding system. Amazing what the proper wire did.
Just hope the kid didn't pop his eardrums.

One of the drawbacks in using a stock harness is the car makers tend to use
the thinnest (cheapest, lightest) wire they can get away with. Higher end
stereos don't work well with high loss speaker wire and teeny tiny power feeds.

Generally I steer clear of using any OEM harness in a quality stereo install.
If your just replacing the head then it should be fine, but you can get so
much more with some extra time and quality parts.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

Endo did pass the time by typing:
> Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires. The
> previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and now
> it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron out
> and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a mess
> and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I guess
> it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires for
> any install.

More like they don't trust the kiddos with soldering irons. :)
And after seeing some "box store" installs, I wouldn't either.

Ever seen a 200W amp being powered by a long *** run of AC extension cord?
Twas a sad looking and sounding system. Amazing what the proper wire did.
Just hope the kid didn't pop his eardrums.

One of the drawbacks in using a stock harness is the car makers tend to use
the thinnest (cheapest, lightest) wire they can get away with. Higher end
stereos don't work well with high loss speaker wire and teeny tiny power feeds.

Generally I steer clear of using any OEM harness in a quality stereo install.
If your just replacing the head then it should be fine, but you can get so
much more with some extra time and quality parts.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

Endo did pass the time by typing:
> Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires. The
> previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and now
> it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron out
> and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a mess
> and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I guess
> it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires for
> any install.

More like they don't trust the kiddos with soldering irons. :)
And after seeing some "box store" installs, I wouldn't either.

Ever seen a 200W amp being powered by a long *** run of AC extension cord?
Twas a sad looking and sounding system. Amazing what the proper wire did.
Just hope the kid didn't pop his eardrums.

One of the drawbacks in using a stock harness is the car makers tend to use
the thinnest (cheapest, lightest) wire they can get away with. Higher end
stereos don't work well with high loss speaker wire and teeny tiny power feeds.

Generally I steer clear of using any OEM harness in a quality stereo install.
If your just replacing the head then it should be fine, but you can get so
much more with some extra time and quality parts.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

Endo

I agree with you, the factory wiring is many time a lot lighter that it
could be. If I were setting up a real good install then I would run all new
wire for power and speakers. If you were amping the speakers inthe factory
locations you would almost have to anyway, unless you did the wiring the
front and rear wires together in the dash and running directly to the rear
speakers from the amp. I know a few people who have gone that route. You'd
probably still want a harness for the other connections like dimmer,
switched ignition, and power antenna (if equipped) no?

Shawn


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:tQIyc.37043$%T.24403@okepread05...
> Endo did pass the time by typing:
> > Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires.
The
> > previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and
now
> > it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron
out
> > and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a
mess
> > and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I
guess
> > it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires
for
> > any install.
>
> More like they don't trust the kiddos with soldering irons. :)
> And after seeing some "box store" installs, I wouldn't either.
>
> Ever seen a 200W amp being powered by a long *** run of AC extension cord?
> Twas a sad looking and sounding system. Amazing what the proper wire did.
> Just hope the kid didn't pop his eardrums.
>
> One of the drawbacks in using a stock harness is the car makers tend to
use
> the thinnest (cheapest, lightest) wire they can get away with. Higher end
> stereos don't work well with high loss speaker wire and teeny tiny power
feeds.
>
> Generally I steer clear of using any OEM harness in a quality stereo
install.
> If your just replacing the head then it should be fine, but you can get so
> much more with some extra time and quality parts.
>
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>

Endo

I agree with you, the factory wiring is many time a lot lighter that it
could be. If I were setting up a real good install then I would run all new
wire for power and speakers. If you were amping the speakers inthe factory
locations you would almost have to anyway, unless you did the wiring the
front and rear wires together in the dash and running directly to the rear
speakers from the amp. I know a few people who have gone that route. You'd
probably still want a harness for the other connections like dimmer,
switched ignition, and power antenna (if equipped) no?

Shawn


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:tQIyc.37043$%T.24403@okepread05...
> Endo did pass the time by typing:
> > Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires.
The
> > previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and
now
> > it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron
out
> > and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a
mess
> > and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I
guess
> > it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires
for
> > any install.
>
> More like they don't trust the kiddos with soldering irons. :)
> And after seeing some "box store" installs, I wouldn't either.
>
> Ever seen a 200W amp being powered by a long *** run of AC extension cord?
> Twas a sad looking and sounding system. Amazing what the proper wire did.
> Just hope the kid didn't pop his eardrums.
>
> One of the drawbacks in using a stock harness is the car makers tend to
use
> the thinnest (cheapest, lightest) wire they can get away with. Higher end
> stereos don't work well with high loss speaker wire and teeny tiny power
feeds.
>
> Generally I steer clear of using any OEM harness in a quality stereo
install.
> If your just replacing the head then it should be fine, but you can get so
> much more with some extra time and quality parts.
>
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>

Endo

I agree with you, the factory wiring is many time a lot lighter that it
could be. If I were setting up a real good install then I would run all new
wire for power and speakers. If you were amping the speakers inthe factory
locations you would almost have to anyway, unless you did the wiring the
front and rear wires together in the dash and running directly to the rear
speakers from the amp. I know a few people who have gone that route. You'd
probably still want a harness for the other connections like dimmer,
switched ignition, and power antenna (if equipped) no?

Shawn


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:tQIyc.37043$%T.24403@okepread05...
> Endo did pass the time by typing:
> > Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires.
The
> > previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and
now
> > it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron
out
> > and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a
mess
> > and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I
guess
> > it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires
for
> > any install.
>
> More like they don't trust the kiddos with soldering irons. :)
> And after seeing some "box store" installs, I wouldn't either.
>
> Ever seen a 200W amp being powered by a long *** run of AC extension cord?
> Twas a sad looking and sounding system. Amazing what the proper wire did.
> Just hope the kid didn't pop his eardrums.
>
> One of the drawbacks in using a stock harness is the car makers tend to
use
> the thinnest (cheapest, lightest) wire they can get away with. Higher end
> stereos don't work well with high loss speaker wire and teeny tiny power
feeds.
>
> Generally I steer clear of using any OEM harness in a quality stereo
install.
> If your just replacing the head then it should be fine, but you can get so
> much more with some extra time and quality parts.
>
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>

Endo

I agree with you, the factory wiring is many time a lot lighter that it
could be. If I were setting up a real good install then I would run all new
wire for power and speakers. If you were amping the speakers inthe factory
locations you would almost have to anyway, unless you did the wiring the
front and rear wires together in the dash and running directly to the rear
speakers from the amp. I know a few people who have gone that route. You'd
probably still want a harness for the other connections like dimmer,
switched ignition, and power antenna (if equipped) no?

Shawn


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:tQIyc.37043$%T.24403@okepread05...
> Endo did pass the time by typing:
> > Yes by all means use a harness adapter and NEVER cut the factory wires.
The
> > previous owner of my TJ made a complete ------- mess of my harness and
now
> > it's half-assed together. I'm going to probably get the soldering iron
out
> > and redo the mess then heat shrink it all. Even the speaker ends are a
mess
> > and they make adapters for those too. Every Circuit City uses them, I
guess
> > it's a rule they have that they are not allowed to cut the factory wires
for
> > any install.
>
> More like they don't trust the kiddos with soldering irons. :)
> And after seeing some "box store" installs, I wouldn't either.
>
> Ever seen a 200W amp being powered by a long *** run of AC extension cord?
> Twas a sad looking and sounding system. Amazing what the proper wire did.
> Just hope the kid didn't pop his eardrums.
>
> One of the drawbacks in using a stock harness is the car makers tend to
use
> the thinnest (cheapest, lightest) wire they can get away with. Higher end
> stereos don't work well with high loss speaker wire and teeny tiny power
feeds.
>
> Generally I steer clear of using any OEM harness in a quality stereo
install.
> If your just replacing the head then it should be fine, but you can get so
> much more with some extra time and quality parts.
>
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>

DougW

Endo did pass the time by typing:
> I agree with you, the factory wiring is many time a lot lighter that it
> could be. If I were setting up a real good install then I would run all new
> wire for power and speakers. If you were amping the speakers inthe factory
> locations you would almost have to anyway, unless you did the wiring the
> front and rear wires together in the dash and running directly to the rear
> speakers from the amp. I know a few people who have gone that route. You'd
> probably still want a harness for the other connections like dimmer,
> switched ignition, and power antenna (if equipped) no?

You can. The antenna is usually a standard female spade style. Dimmer power
comes from the stock harness but usually main power comes from a new feed.
On mine I tapped the dimmer wire and then bundled the old connector back into
the dash.