billy ray

I seen on the web where the Jeep 4 liter will accept the Ford V-8 filters
(FL-1)


"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:445D9B9D.A4149E5E@***.net...
> Hi Dave,
> The spin-on part of the fram oil filter, the part where the flapper
> disk is located is probably the strongest of any of the makes as anyone
> that's tried to chisel off one that was installed with a wrench will
> testify. Only thing people may bad mouth the fram about is their
> filtration area is a little smaller, so I use the largest size that will
> fit: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> DaveW wrote:
>>
>> Sorry for the top post, but:
>>
>> Back when I used to drive Slant 6 cars (1980-1999), I noticed the
>> following:
>>
>> 1. On the Slant 6, just like the 4.0 Jeep, the filter sits upside down
>> so that gravity tends to make the oil flow back out of the filter and
>> into the pan when not running.
>>
>> 2. Despite the claims made here and elsewhere, based on my oil lights on
>> 3 vehicles over almost 20 years, Fram filters tended to hold pressure
>> overnight better than AC, Motocraft, Mopar, and a few others. Purelator
>> was an exception...they always worked.
>>
>> 3. Some, like AC, would work fine until a good long run at high speed.
>> After that, they would cause a delay in putting out the oil light when
>> starting. Some (mixed brands) had the same behavior from the first start.
>>
>> 4. I finally gave up on the Slant 6s and used Frams. Sure, the
>> construction of the anti-drainback valve may appear flimsy, but it
>> always worked unlike most others. Perhaps that cardboard/rubber flap
>> actually works better in service than the more logical systems used in
>> other filters. Several times, after an oil change, I had to replace
>> "Xbrand" filters with Fram to hold oil in the filter overnight. The
>> Frams always assured a quick oil light turnoff until they got replaced
>> at the next oil change.
>>
>> 5. On my XJ, after reading the assorted oil filter tests on the web, I
>> switched to Purelator and have not had a problem. But the only stores
>> that carry them locally, (Pep Boys) tend to run out of the proper
>> filter, so I have to buy several when they are actually in stock. I'd
>> use Fram again in a pinch.
>>
>> 6. I'm not commenting on the filter medium itself. Just the
>> anti-drainback function.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> DAve
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>> > I'll bet he has a cheap Fram filter in it, or the equivalent.
>> >
>> > Earle
>> >
>> > "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> > news:445C60FA.7F65D4C0@***.net...
>> >> That's very serious on a new car, could be just a stuck check
>> >> valve
>> >> that is replace with every oil filter. A change of oil may fix it, if
>> >> not take in to the Stealership and leave it over night for them to at
>> >> least document it.
>> >> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> >> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >>
>> >> HIPPIE-X@webtv.net wrote:
>> >>> I have a 2004 Rubicon with 20,000 miles and LOVE it! I have just
>> >>> noticed
>> >>> when I start the engine my oil pressure gauge stays at 0 for a second
>> >>> or
>> >>> two then slowly climbs to normal in about 5-10 seconds. I've had my
>> >>> Jeep
>> >>> for about 6 months and have never noticed it taking so long to get to
>> >>> normal pressure. Is this normal and I just wasn't paying attention to
>> >>> it
>> >>> all along.
>> >
>> >

L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

I lost all my cross stuff. The AMC six is different from what all
Ford and Chrysler products used, and they didn't fit any GM.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

billy ray wrote:
>
> I seen on the web where the Jeep 4 liter will accept the Ford V-8 filters
> (FL-1)

L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

I lost all my cross stuff. The AMC six is different from what all
Ford and Chrysler products used, and they didn't fit any GM.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

billy ray wrote:
>
> I seen on the web where the Jeep 4 liter will accept the Ford V-8 filters
> (FL-1)

L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

I lost all my cross stuff. The AMC six is different from what all
Ford and Chrysler products used, and they didn't fit any GM.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

billy ray wrote:
>
> I seen on the web where the Jeep 4 liter will accept the Ford V-8 filters
> (FL-1)

Earle Horton

The 4.0 liter engine originally used a PH3985 or equivalent, with a metric
filter adapter having 20mm-1.5mm thread. In 1991, Jeep switched to a PH16
with 3/4-16, which is what many Chrysler products used. This appears to
have the same base as the larger PH8, used on older Ford and Chrysler
engines.

Can you substitute the one quart filter for the half quart filter? I
suppose so, but I have never done it.

Earle

"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:445DACB7.C9361868@***.net...
> I lost all my cross stuff. The AMC six is different from what all
> Ford and Chrysler products used, and they didn't fit any GM.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> billy ray wrote:
> >
> > I seen on the web where the Jeep 4 liter will accept the Ford V-8
filters
> > (FL-1)

Earle Horton

The 4.0 liter engine originally used a PH3985 or equivalent, with a metric
filter adapter having 20mm-1.5mm thread. In 1991, Jeep switched to a PH16
with 3/4-16, which is what many Chrysler products used. This appears to
have the same base as the larger PH8, used on older Ford and Chrysler
engines.

Can you substitute the one quart filter for the half quart filter? I
suppose so, but I have never done it.

Earle

"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:445DACB7.C9361868@***.net...
> I lost all my cross stuff. The AMC six is different from what all
> Ford and Chrysler products used, and they didn't fit any GM.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> billy ray wrote:
> >
> > I seen on the web where the Jeep 4 liter will accept the Ford V-8
filters
> > (FL-1)

Earle Horton

The 4.0 liter engine originally used a PH3985 or equivalent, with a metric
filter adapter having 20mm-1.5mm thread. In 1991, Jeep switched to a PH16
with 3/4-16, which is what many Chrysler products used. This appears to
have the same base as the larger PH8, used on older Ford and Chrysler
engines.

Can you substitute the one quart filter for the half quart filter? I
suppose so, but I have never done it.

Earle

"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:445DACB7.C9361868@***.net...
> I lost all my cross stuff. The AMC six is different from what all
> Ford and Chrysler products used, and they didn't fit any GM.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> billy ray wrote:
> >
> > I seen on the web where the Jeep 4 liter will accept the Ford V-8
filters
> > (FL-1)

DaveW

I hear you Bill. A bit less surface area is of course counterbalanced by
more frequent oil and filter changes. Most of my vehicles see relatively
few miles vs. months, but nearly all of it in Los Angeles traffic. So, I
go with 4 months/3000 miles.

Interestingly, on the carb engines, oil would get dirty much faster than
more modern FI engines with similar age/mileage. The newer engines
certainly appear to reach operating temp faster, and this may be the
difference, not spewing as much unburned gas into the oil during warm up.

Anyway, I've nearly stopped doing my own oil. Living in an apartment
these days with no good place to do it, it is just simpler to go to the
local shop for those messy fluid draining chores. I still do about 1 in
3 so that I'm sure to crawl under the old XJ and have a look around. You
never know what you will find lurking...

Best Regards,

DAve

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> The spin-on part of the fram oil filter, the part where the flapper
> disk is located is probably the strongest of any of the makes as anyone
> that's tried to chisel off one that was installed with a wrench will
> testify. Only thing people may bad mouth the fram about is their
> filtration area is a little smaller, so I use the largest size that will
> fit: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> DaveW wrote:
>> Sorry for the top post, but:
>>
>> Back when I used to drive Slant 6 cars (1980-1999), I noticed the following:
>>
>> 1. On the Slant 6, just like the 4.0 Jeep, the filter sits upside down
>> so that gravity tends to make the oil flow back out of the filter and
>> into the pan when not running.
>>
>> 2. Despite the claims made here and elsewhere, based on my oil lights on
>> 3 vehicles over almost 20 years, Fram filters tended to hold pressure
>> overnight better than AC, Motocraft, Mopar, and a few others. Purelator
>> was an exception...they always worked.
>>
>> 3. Some, like AC, would work fine until a good long run at high speed.
>> After that, they would cause a delay in putting out the oil light when
>> starting. Some (mixed brands) had the same behavior from the first start.
>>
>> 4. I finally gave up on the Slant 6s and used Frams. Sure, the
>> construction of the anti-drainback valve may appear flimsy, but it
>> always worked unlike most others. Perhaps that cardboard/rubber flap
>> actually works better in service than the more logical systems used in
>> other filters. Several times, after an oil change, I had to replace
>> "Xbrand" filters with Fram to hold oil in the filter overnight. The
>> Frams always assured a quick oil light turnoff until they got replaced
>> at the next oil change.
>>
>> 5. On my XJ, after reading the assorted oil filter tests on the web, I
>> switched to Purelator and have not had a problem. But the only stores
>> that carry them locally, (Pep Boys) tend to run out of the proper
>> filter, so I have to buy several when they are actually in stock. I'd
>> use Fram again in a pinch.
>>
>> 6. I'm not commenting on the filter medium itself. Just the
>> anti-drainback function.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> DAve
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> I'll bet he has a cheap Fram filter in it, or the equivalent.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>> news:445C60FA.7F65D4C0@***.net...
>>>> That's very serious on a new car, could be just a stuck check valve
>>>> that is replace with every oil filter. A change of oil may fix it, if
>>>> not take in to the Stealership and leave it over night for them to at
>>>> least document it.
>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>
>>>> HIPPIE-X@webtv.net wrote:
>>>>> I have a 2004 Rubicon with 20,000 miles and LOVE it! I have just noticed
>>>>> when I start the engine my oil pressure gauge stays at 0 for a second or
>>>>> two then slowly climbs to normal in about 5-10 seconds. I've had my Jeep
>>>>> for about 6 months and have never noticed it taking so long to get to
>>>>> normal pressure. Is this normal and I just wasn't paying attention to it
>>>>> all along.
>>>

DaveW

I hear you Bill. A bit less surface area is of course counterbalanced by
more frequent oil and filter changes. Most of my vehicles see relatively
few miles vs. months, but nearly all of it in Los Angeles traffic. So, I
go with 4 months/3000 miles.

Interestingly, on the carb engines, oil would get dirty much faster than
more modern FI engines with similar age/mileage. The newer engines
certainly appear to reach operating temp faster, and this may be the
difference, not spewing as much unburned gas into the oil during warm up.

Anyway, I've nearly stopped doing my own oil. Living in an apartment
these days with no good place to do it, it is just simpler to go to the
local shop for those messy fluid draining chores. I still do about 1 in
3 so that I'm sure to crawl under the old XJ and have a look around. You
never know what you will find lurking...

Best Regards,

DAve

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> The spin-on part of the fram oil filter, the part where the flapper
> disk is located is probably the strongest of any of the makes as anyone
> that's tried to chisel off one that was installed with a wrench will
> testify. Only thing people may bad mouth the fram about is their
> filtration area is a little smaller, so I use the largest size that will
> fit: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> DaveW wrote:
>> Sorry for the top post, but:
>>
>> Back when I used to drive Slant 6 cars (1980-1999), I noticed the following:
>>
>> 1. On the Slant 6, just like the 4.0 Jeep, the filter sits upside down
>> so that gravity tends to make the oil flow back out of the filter and
>> into the pan when not running.
>>
>> 2. Despite the claims made here and elsewhere, based on my oil lights on
>> 3 vehicles over almost 20 years, Fram filters tended to hold pressure
>> overnight better than AC, Motocraft, Mopar, and a few others. Purelator
>> was an exception...they always worked.
>>
>> 3. Some, like AC, would work fine until a good long run at high speed.
>> After that, they would cause a delay in putting out the oil light when
>> starting. Some (mixed brands) had the same behavior from the first start.
>>
>> 4. I finally gave up on the Slant 6s and used Frams. Sure, the
>> construction of the anti-drainback valve may appear flimsy, but it
>> always worked unlike most others. Perhaps that cardboard/rubber flap
>> actually works better in service than the more logical systems used in
>> other filters. Several times, after an oil change, I had to replace
>> "Xbrand" filters with Fram to hold oil in the filter overnight. The
>> Frams always assured a quick oil light turnoff until they got replaced
>> at the next oil change.
>>
>> 5. On my XJ, after reading the assorted oil filter tests on the web, I
>> switched to Purelator and have not had a problem. But the only stores
>> that carry them locally, (Pep Boys) tend to run out of the proper
>> filter, so I have to buy several when they are actually in stock. I'd
>> use Fram again in a pinch.
>>
>> 6. I'm not commenting on the filter medium itself. Just the
>> anti-drainback function.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> DAve
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> I'll bet he has a cheap Fram filter in it, or the equivalent.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>> news:445C60FA.7F65D4C0@***.net...
>>>> That's very serious on a new car, could be just a stuck check valve
>>>> that is replace with every oil filter. A change of oil may fix it, if
>>>> not take in to the Stealership and leave it over night for them to at
>>>> least document it.
>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>
>>>> HIPPIE-X@webtv.net wrote:
>>>>> I have a 2004 Rubicon with 20,000 miles and LOVE it! I have just noticed
>>>>> when I start the engine my oil pressure gauge stays at 0 for a second or
>>>>> two then slowly climbs to normal in about 5-10 seconds. I've had my Jeep
>>>>> for about 6 months and have never noticed it taking so long to get to
>>>>> normal pressure. Is this normal and I just wasn't paying attention to it
>>>>> all along.
>>>

DaveW

I hear you Bill. A bit less surface area is of course counterbalanced by
more frequent oil and filter changes. Most of my vehicles see relatively
few miles vs. months, but nearly all of it in Los Angeles traffic. So, I
go with 4 months/3000 miles.

Interestingly, on the carb engines, oil would get dirty much faster than
more modern FI engines with similar age/mileage. The newer engines
certainly appear to reach operating temp faster, and this may be the
difference, not spewing as much unburned gas into the oil during warm up.

Anyway, I've nearly stopped doing my own oil. Living in an apartment
these days with no good place to do it, it is just simpler to go to the
local shop for those messy fluid draining chores. I still do about 1 in
3 so that I'm sure to crawl under the old XJ and have a look around. You
never know what you will find lurking...

Best Regards,

DAve

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> The spin-on part of the fram oil filter, the part where the flapper
> disk is located is probably the strongest of any of the makes as anyone
> that's tried to chisel off one that was installed with a wrench will
> testify. Only thing people may bad mouth the fram about is their
> filtration area is a little smaller, so I use the largest size that will
> fit: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> DaveW wrote:
>> Sorry for the top post, but:
>>
>> Back when I used to drive Slant 6 cars (1980-1999), I noticed the following:
>>
>> 1. On the Slant 6, just like the 4.0 Jeep, the filter sits upside down
>> so that gravity tends to make the oil flow back out of the filter and
>> into the pan when not running.
>>
>> 2. Despite the claims made here and elsewhere, based on my oil lights on
>> 3 vehicles over almost 20 years, Fram filters tended to hold pressure
>> overnight better than AC, Motocraft, Mopar, and a few others. Purelator
>> was an exception...they always worked.
>>
>> 3. Some, like AC, would work fine until a good long run at high speed.
>> After that, they would cause a delay in putting out the oil light when
>> starting. Some (mixed brands) had the same behavior from the first start.
>>
>> 4. I finally gave up on the Slant 6s and used Frams. Sure, the
>> construction of the anti-drainback valve may appear flimsy, but it
>> always worked unlike most others. Perhaps that cardboard/rubber flap
>> actually works better in service than the more logical systems used in
>> other filters. Several times, after an oil change, I had to replace
>> "Xbrand" filters with Fram to hold oil in the filter overnight. The
>> Frams always assured a quick oil light turnoff until they got replaced
>> at the next oil change.
>>
>> 5. On my XJ, after reading the assorted oil filter tests on the web, I
>> switched to Purelator and have not had a problem. But the only stores
>> that carry them locally, (Pep Boys) tend to run out of the proper
>> filter, so I have to buy several when they are actually in stock. I'd
>> use Fram again in a pinch.
>>
>> 6. I'm not commenting on the filter medium itself. Just the
>> anti-drainback function.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> DAve
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>> I'll bet he has a cheap Fram filter in it, or the equivalent.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>>
>>> "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>> news:445C60FA.7F65D4C0@***.net...
>>>> That's very serious on a new car, could be just a stuck check valve
>>>> that is replace with every oil filter. A change of oil may fix it, if
>>>> not take in to the Stealership and leave it over night for them to at
>>>> least document it.
>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>
>>>> HIPPIE-X@webtv.net wrote:
>>>>> I have a 2004 Rubicon with 20,000 miles and LOVE it! I have just noticed
>>>>> when I start the engine my oil pressure gauge stays at 0 for a second or
>>>>> two then slowly climbs to normal in about 5-10 seconds. I've had my Jeep
>>>>> for about 6 months and have never noticed it taking so long to get to
>>>>> normal pressure. Is this normal and I just wasn't paying attention to it
>>>>> all along.
>>>