Project beginning
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
On 7 May 2004 04:21:48 GMT, Del Rawlins
<del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org> wrote:
>In <2g0alrF35nudU1@uni-berlin.de> HomeBrewer wrote:
>> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
>> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel,
>> but eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I
>> need to know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I
>> have a set of tools for most back yard operations and an air
>> compressor - what else "must have" tools should I get.
>
>4.5" angle grinder fitted with cut off wheels.
Goggles when using this one are a must.
>Slow speed (1200rpm or less) drill motor and left handed drill bits.
Along with some good easy outs in various sizes in case the left
handed drill bit doesn't do the trick. :)
>Ziploc baggies and a permanent marker for small parts
>Camera for taking pictures of assemblies before you remove them.
One of the best tools mentioned is this ... invaluable
>Can of liquid wrench or Aero-Kroil (use a day or two in advance)
>1 pkg flexible fabric bandages (regular size)
Heh ....... for sure a must have along with some work gloves.
>Safety glasses
>Earmuffs
>
>----------------------------------------------------
>Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
>Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
>Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
>http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/
Also the following might be handy.
* Air chisel .... or hole saw for getting at seized body mount bolts
* A good friend to help
<del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org> wrote:
>In <2g0alrF35nudU1@uni-berlin.de> HomeBrewer wrote:
>> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
>> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel,
>> but eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I
>> need to know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I
>> have a set of tools for most back yard operations and an air
>> compressor - what else "must have" tools should I get.
>
>4.5" angle grinder fitted with cut off wheels.
Goggles when using this one are a must.
>Slow speed (1200rpm or less) drill motor and left handed drill bits.
Along with some good easy outs in various sizes in case the left
handed drill bit doesn't do the trick. :)
>Ziploc baggies and a permanent marker for small parts
>Camera for taking pictures of assemblies before you remove them.
One of the best tools mentioned is this ... invaluable
>Can of liquid wrench or Aero-Kroil (use a day or two in advance)
>1 pkg flexible fabric bandages (regular size)
Heh ....... for sure a must have along with some work gloves.
>Safety glasses
>Earmuffs
>
>----------------------------------------------------
>Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
>Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
>Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
>http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/
Also the following might be handy.
* Air chisel .... or hole saw for getting at seized body mount bolts
* A good friend to help
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
HomeBrewer wrote:
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
Good suggestions from everyone.
My 2 cents worth (but this stuff costs a lot more than that!):
1. Any kind of torch from MAPP/OX to Propane for heating cruddy nuts/bolts.
2. A 2 pound hammer to whack stuff that pisses you off (like nuts/bolts).
3. Beer (in reasonable moderation & not at crucial decision times).
4. 10 cans (at least) of penetrating oil.
5. Lots of hacksaw blades & a good hacksaw.
6. A 'Sawzall' type reciprocating saw and a stack of various blades for it.
7. Something to listen to whatever music you like, to pass time faster.
8. An understanding wife and neighbors are also good assets.
9. Plenty of degreaser for your hands and your driveway &/or floor.
10. Tarps, and lots of them (to cover everything for storage and if the
weather turns ugly faster than you planned on).
11. A couple strong friends with good backs and somone with a pickup
they don't mind getting the bed dirty and greasy.
12. Phone book with all the local scrap yards and metal suppliers
highlited so you can find parts or components to make everything from
brackets to gantries to body rotiseries (you might be surprised).
13. First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and a working phone @ arm's reach.
14. A recently cleaned-out garage (unless it's already almost empty).
15. A MIG welder & supplies for it.
16. An air hammer with a bunch of different bits.
17. Pallet Rack (the narrow stuff is fine) for shelving in your garage
(really strong and cheaper than some people might think).
18. By FAR the best tool I've ever used for body & chassis disassembly:
A "Screw Knocker". It goes in your air hammer and vibrates the toughest
screw/bolt/nut loose without heat (heat makes it work even faster). It's
basically a hex shaped bar with one end going into the air hammer and a
bit holder for sockets or screw-head bits (get the heavy-duty impact
type) on the other with a combination wrench attached in the middle that
you use your 'other' hand to apply turning force (the hammer just
vibrates). I used mine to pull out all of the unbelievably frozen rusty
bolts from the bottom edge of my ****** Wagon tailgate and hinge as well
as pulling out all the door bolts so easy I couldn't believe it. This
thing is just the best tool I've ever seen. 50 year-old spring shackles
quake with fear at the sight of this thing! (OK, maybe not)
Get one at: http://www.yardstore.com (they sell aircraft tools). You'll
wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it. Cost = about
$20. Last I saw, Eastwood was also selling them for about the same price.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
Good suggestions from everyone.
My 2 cents worth (but this stuff costs a lot more than that!):
1. Any kind of torch from MAPP/OX to Propane for heating cruddy nuts/bolts.
2. A 2 pound hammer to whack stuff that pisses you off (like nuts/bolts).
3. Beer (in reasonable moderation & not at crucial decision times).
4. 10 cans (at least) of penetrating oil.
5. Lots of hacksaw blades & a good hacksaw.
6. A 'Sawzall' type reciprocating saw and a stack of various blades for it.
7. Something to listen to whatever music you like, to pass time faster.
8. An understanding wife and neighbors are also good assets.
9. Plenty of degreaser for your hands and your driveway &/or floor.
10. Tarps, and lots of them (to cover everything for storage and if the
weather turns ugly faster than you planned on).
11. A couple strong friends with good backs and somone with a pickup
they don't mind getting the bed dirty and greasy.
12. Phone book with all the local scrap yards and metal suppliers
highlited so you can find parts or components to make everything from
brackets to gantries to body rotiseries (you might be surprised).
13. First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and a working phone @ arm's reach.
14. A recently cleaned-out garage (unless it's already almost empty).
15. A MIG welder & supplies for it.
16. An air hammer with a bunch of different bits.
17. Pallet Rack (the narrow stuff is fine) for shelving in your garage
(really strong and cheaper than some people might think).
18. By FAR the best tool I've ever used for body & chassis disassembly:
A "Screw Knocker". It goes in your air hammer and vibrates the toughest
screw/bolt/nut loose without heat (heat makes it work even faster). It's
basically a hex shaped bar with one end going into the air hammer and a
bit holder for sockets or screw-head bits (get the heavy-duty impact
type) on the other with a combination wrench attached in the middle that
you use your 'other' hand to apply turning force (the hammer just
vibrates). I used mine to pull out all of the unbelievably frozen rusty
bolts from the bottom edge of my ****** Wagon tailgate and hinge as well
as pulling out all the door bolts so easy I couldn't believe it. This
thing is just the best tool I've ever seen. 50 year-old spring shackles
quake with fear at the sight of this thing! (OK, maybe not)
Get one at: http://www.yardstore.com (they sell aircraft tools). You'll
wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it. Cost = about
$20. Last I saw, Eastwood was also selling them for about the same price.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
HomeBrewer wrote:
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
Good suggestions from everyone.
My 2 cents worth (but this stuff costs a lot more than that!):
1. Any kind of torch from MAPP/OX to Propane for heating cruddy nuts/bolts.
2. A 2 pound hammer to whack stuff that pisses you off (like nuts/bolts).
3. Beer (in reasonable moderation & not at crucial decision times).
4. 10 cans (at least) of penetrating oil.
5. Lots of hacksaw blades & a good hacksaw.
6. A 'Sawzall' type reciprocating saw and a stack of various blades for it.
7. Something to listen to whatever music you like, to pass time faster.
8. An understanding wife and neighbors are also good assets.
9. Plenty of degreaser for your hands and your driveway &/or floor.
10. Tarps, and lots of them (to cover everything for storage and if the
weather turns ugly faster than you planned on).
11. A couple strong friends with good backs and somone with a pickup
they don't mind getting the bed dirty and greasy.
12. Phone book with all the local scrap yards and metal suppliers
highlited so you can find parts or components to make everything from
brackets to gantries to body rotiseries (you might be surprised).
13. First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and a working phone @ arm's reach.
14. A recently cleaned-out garage (unless it's already almost empty).
15. A MIG welder & supplies for it.
16. An air hammer with a bunch of different bits.
17. Pallet Rack (the narrow stuff is fine) for shelving in your garage
(really strong and cheaper than some people might think).
18. By FAR the best tool I've ever used for body & chassis disassembly:
A "Screw Knocker". It goes in your air hammer and vibrates the toughest
screw/bolt/nut loose without heat (heat makes it work even faster). It's
basically a hex shaped bar with one end going into the air hammer and a
bit holder for sockets or screw-head bits (get the heavy-duty impact
type) on the other with a combination wrench attached in the middle that
you use your 'other' hand to apply turning force (the hammer just
vibrates). I used mine to pull out all of the unbelievably frozen rusty
bolts from the bottom edge of my ****** Wagon tailgate and hinge as well
as pulling out all the door bolts so easy I couldn't believe it. This
thing is just the best tool I've ever seen. 50 year-old spring shackles
quake with fear at the sight of this thing! (OK, maybe not)
Get one at: http://www.yardstore.com (they sell aircraft tools). You'll
wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it. Cost = about
$20. Last I saw, Eastwood was also selling them for about the same price.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
Good suggestions from everyone.
My 2 cents worth (but this stuff costs a lot more than that!):
1. Any kind of torch from MAPP/OX to Propane for heating cruddy nuts/bolts.
2. A 2 pound hammer to whack stuff that pisses you off (like nuts/bolts).
3. Beer (in reasonable moderation & not at crucial decision times).
4. 10 cans (at least) of penetrating oil.
5. Lots of hacksaw blades & a good hacksaw.
6. A 'Sawzall' type reciprocating saw and a stack of various blades for it.
7. Something to listen to whatever music you like, to pass time faster.
8. An understanding wife and neighbors are also good assets.
9. Plenty of degreaser for your hands and your driveway &/or floor.
10. Tarps, and lots of them (to cover everything for storage and if the
weather turns ugly faster than you planned on).
11. A couple strong friends with good backs and somone with a pickup
they don't mind getting the bed dirty and greasy.
12. Phone book with all the local scrap yards and metal suppliers
highlited so you can find parts or components to make everything from
brackets to gantries to body rotiseries (you might be surprised).
13. First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and a working phone @ arm's reach.
14. A recently cleaned-out garage (unless it's already almost empty).
15. A MIG welder & supplies for it.
16. An air hammer with a bunch of different bits.
17. Pallet Rack (the narrow stuff is fine) for shelving in your garage
(really strong and cheaper than some people might think).
18. By FAR the best tool I've ever used for body & chassis disassembly:
A "Screw Knocker". It goes in your air hammer and vibrates the toughest
screw/bolt/nut loose without heat (heat makes it work even faster). It's
basically a hex shaped bar with one end going into the air hammer and a
bit holder for sockets or screw-head bits (get the heavy-duty impact
type) on the other with a combination wrench attached in the middle that
you use your 'other' hand to apply turning force (the hammer just
vibrates). I used mine to pull out all of the unbelievably frozen rusty
bolts from the bottom edge of my ****** Wagon tailgate and hinge as well
as pulling out all the door bolts so easy I couldn't believe it. This
thing is just the best tool I've ever seen. 50 year-old spring shackles
quake with fear at the sight of this thing! (OK, maybe not)
Get one at: http://www.yardstore.com (they sell aircraft tools). You'll
wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it. Cost = about
$20. Last I saw, Eastwood was also selling them for about the same price.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
HomeBrewer wrote:
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
Good suggestions from everyone.
My 2 cents worth (but this stuff costs a lot more than that!):
1. Any kind of torch from MAPP/OX to Propane for heating cruddy nuts/bolts.
2. A 2 pound hammer to whack stuff that pisses you off (like nuts/bolts).
3. Beer (in reasonable moderation & not at crucial decision times).
4. 10 cans (at least) of penetrating oil.
5. Lots of hacksaw blades & a good hacksaw.
6. A 'Sawzall' type reciprocating saw and a stack of various blades for it.
7. Something to listen to whatever music you like, to pass time faster.
8. An understanding wife and neighbors are also good assets.
9. Plenty of degreaser for your hands and your driveway &/or floor.
10. Tarps, and lots of them (to cover everything for storage and if the
weather turns ugly faster than you planned on).
11. A couple strong friends with good backs and somone with a pickup
they don't mind getting the bed dirty and greasy.
12. Phone book with all the local scrap yards and metal suppliers
highlited so you can find parts or components to make everything from
brackets to gantries to body rotiseries (you might be surprised).
13. First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and a working phone @ arm's reach.
14. A recently cleaned-out garage (unless it's already almost empty).
15. A MIG welder & supplies for it.
16. An air hammer with a bunch of different bits.
17. Pallet Rack (the narrow stuff is fine) for shelving in your garage
(really strong and cheaper than some people might think).
18. By FAR the best tool I've ever used for body & chassis disassembly:
A "Screw Knocker". It goes in your air hammer and vibrates the toughest
screw/bolt/nut loose without heat (heat makes it work even faster). It's
basically a hex shaped bar with one end going into the air hammer and a
bit holder for sockets or screw-head bits (get the heavy-duty impact
type) on the other with a combination wrench attached in the middle that
you use your 'other' hand to apply turning force (the hammer just
vibrates). I used mine to pull out all of the unbelievably frozen rusty
bolts from the bottom edge of my ****** Wagon tailgate and hinge as well
as pulling out all the door bolts so easy I couldn't believe it. This
thing is just the best tool I've ever seen. 50 year-old spring shackles
quake with fear at the sight of this thing! (OK, maybe not)
Get one at: http://www.yardstore.com (they sell aircraft tools). You'll
wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it. Cost = about
$20. Last I saw, Eastwood was also selling them for about the same price.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
Good suggestions from everyone.
My 2 cents worth (but this stuff costs a lot more than that!):
1. Any kind of torch from MAPP/OX to Propane for heating cruddy nuts/bolts.
2. A 2 pound hammer to whack stuff that pisses you off (like nuts/bolts).
3. Beer (in reasonable moderation & not at crucial decision times).
4. 10 cans (at least) of penetrating oil.
5. Lots of hacksaw blades & a good hacksaw.
6. A 'Sawzall' type reciprocating saw and a stack of various blades for it.
7. Something to listen to whatever music you like, to pass time faster.
8. An understanding wife and neighbors are also good assets.
9. Plenty of degreaser for your hands and your driveway &/or floor.
10. Tarps, and lots of them (to cover everything for storage and if the
weather turns ugly faster than you planned on).
11. A couple strong friends with good backs and somone with a pickup
they don't mind getting the bed dirty and greasy.
12. Phone book with all the local scrap yards and metal suppliers
highlited so you can find parts or components to make everything from
brackets to gantries to body rotiseries (you might be surprised).
13. First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and a working phone @ arm's reach.
14. A recently cleaned-out garage (unless it's already almost empty).
15. A MIG welder & supplies for it.
16. An air hammer with a bunch of different bits.
17. Pallet Rack (the narrow stuff is fine) for shelving in your garage
(really strong and cheaper than some people might think).
18. By FAR the best tool I've ever used for body & chassis disassembly:
A "Screw Knocker". It goes in your air hammer and vibrates the toughest
screw/bolt/nut loose without heat (heat makes it work even faster). It's
basically a hex shaped bar with one end going into the air hammer and a
bit holder for sockets or screw-head bits (get the heavy-duty impact
type) on the other with a combination wrench attached in the middle that
you use your 'other' hand to apply turning force (the hammer just
vibrates). I used mine to pull out all of the unbelievably frozen rusty
bolts from the bottom edge of my ****** Wagon tailgate and hinge as well
as pulling out all the door bolts so easy I couldn't believe it. This
thing is just the best tool I've ever seen. 50 year-old spring shackles
quake with fear at the sight of this thing! (OK, maybe not)
Get one at: http://www.yardstore.com (they sell aircraft tools). You'll
wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it. Cost = about
$20. Last I saw, Eastwood was also selling them for about the same price.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
HomeBrewer wrote:
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
Good suggestions from everyone.
My 2 cents worth (but this stuff costs a lot more than that!):
1. Any kind of torch from MAPP/OX to Propane for heating cruddy nuts/bolts.
2. A 2 pound hammer to whack stuff that pisses you off (like nuts/bolts).
3. Beer (in reasonable moderation & not at crucial decision times).
4. 10 cans (at least) of penetrating oil.
5. Lots of hacksaw blades & a good hacksaw.
6. A 'Sawzall' type reciprocating saw and a stack of various blades for it.
7. Something to listen to whatever music you like, to pass time faster.
8. An understanding wife and neighbors are also good assets.
9. Plenty of degreaser for your hands and your driveway &/or floor.
10. Tarps, and lots of them (to cover everything for storage and if the
weather turns ugly faster than you planned on).
11. A couple strong friends with good backs and somone with a pickup
they don't mind getting the bed dirty and greasy.
12. Phone book with all the local scrap yards and metal suppliers
highlited so you can find parts or components to make everything from
brackets to gantries to body rotiseries (you might be surprised).
13. First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and a working phone @ arm's reach.
14. A recently cleaned-out garage (unless it's already almost empty).
15. A MIG welder & supplies for it.
16. An air hammer with a bunch of different bits.
17. Pallet Rack (the narrow stuff is fine) for shelving in your garage
(really strong and cheaper than some people might think).
18. By FAR the best tool I've ever used for body & chassis disassembly:
A "Screw Knocker". It goes in your air hammer and vibrates the toughest
screw/bolt/nut loose without heat (heat makes it work even faster). It's
basically a hex shaped bar with one end going into the air hammer and a
bit holder for sockets or screw-head bits (get the heavy-duty impact
type) on the other with a combination wrench attached in the middle that
you use your 'other' hand to apply turning force (the hammer just
vibrates). I used mine to pull out all of the unbelievably frozen rusty
bolts from the bottom edge of my ****** Wagon tailgate and hinge as well
as pulling out all the door bolts so easy I couldn't believe it. This
thing is just the best tool I've ever seen. 50 year-old spring shackles
quake with fear at the sight of this thing! (OK, maybe not)
Get one at: http://www.yardstore.com (they sell aircraft tools). You'll
wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it. Cost = about
$20. Last I saw, Eastwood was also selling them for about the same price.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
Good suggestions from everyone.
My 2 cents worth (but this stuff costs a lot more than that!):
1. Any kind of torch from MAPP/OX to Propane for heating cruddy nuts/bolts.
2. A 2 pound hammer to whack stuff that pisses you off (like nuts/bolts).
3. Beer (in reasonable moderation & not at crucial decision times).
4. 10 cans (at least) of penetrating oil.
5. Lots of hacksaw blades & a good hacksaw.
6. A 'Sawzall' type reciprocating saw and a stack of various blades for it.
7. Something to listen to whatever music you like, to pass time faster.
8. An understanding wife and neighbors are also good assets.
9. Plenty of degreaser for your hands and your driveway &/or floor.
10. Tarps, and lots of them (to cover everything for storage and if the
weather turns ugly faster than you planned on).
11. A couple strong friends with good backs and somone with a pickup
they don't mind getting the bed dirty and greasy.
12. Phone book with all the local scrap yards and metal suppliers
highlited so you can find parts or components to make everything from
brackets to gantries to body rotiseries (you might be surprised).
13. First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and a working phone @ arm's reach.
14. A recently cleaned-out garage (unless it's already almost empty).
15. A MIG welder & supplies for it.
16. An air hammer with a bunch of different bits.
17. Pallet Rack (the narrow stuff is fine) for shelving in your garage
(really strong and cheaper than some people might think).
18. By FAR the best tool I've ever used for body & chassis disassembly:
A "Screw Knocker". It goes in your air hammer and vibrates the toughest
screw/bolt/nut loose without heat (heat makes it work even faster). It's
basically a hex shaped bar with one end going into the air hammer and a
bit holder for sockets or screw-head bits (get the heavy-duty impact
type) on the other with a combination wrench attached in the middle that
you use your 'other' hand to apply turning force (the hammer just
vibrates). I used mine to pull out all of the unbelievably frozen rusty
bolts from the bottom edge of my ****** Wagon tailgate and hinge as well
as pulling out all the door bolts so easy I couldn't believe it. This
thing is just the best tool I've ever seen. 50 year-old spring shackles
quake with fear at the sight of this thing! (OK, maybe not)
Get one at: http://www.yardstore.com (they sell aircraft tools). You'll
wonder how you ever got by without one once you have it. Cost = about
$20. Last I saw, Eastwood was also selling them for about the same price.
Cheers,
- Jeff G
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
If you are getting a new tub, save your old one as a reference. Even tubs
that are supposed to be pre-drilled will lack some holes and it is a whole
lot easier to go out behind the garage with a tape than to drive down to
the junkyard. Think: Oh, crap. They didn't drill the mounting and
plumbing holes for the heater box.
Like other posters suggested, a camera or sketch pad to document
assemblies that you might not come back to for months will be a lifesaver
(Oh, crap! Was this the left side or the right?). Lacking a digital
camera I used those disposable cardboard ones and the local cheapie photo
shop -- it is also nice to be able to go back and see what it looked like
after you are done. White tape and a Sharpie marker helped me keep track
of some parts. Large baggies for small parts or hardware came in handy
too. A few times I simply wired the baggies to larger parts and sent them
to the "clean it up and put it back together later" parts pile.
When I ressurected (not really a restoration but an amazingly life-like
recreation) my `79 CJ-5 I found that my 4 1/2" grinder was a favorite
tool. Buy a big handful of cut-off wheels and a handful of medium-grit
flap sanders.
While it is apart, you'll probably find that you should replace all the
tubing. If it is in your budget I suggest buying pre-bent stainless brake
tubing. I did, but I bent my own fuel lines and it nearly drove me to
drink -- and that was with the tub off.
A handful of taps will come in handy for cleaning up threaded holes.
If your tub is that rusty, be sure to check the last two feet of your
frame. Whack the inside of the box hard with a hammer. If it breaks
through you were going to want to repair that part anyway. Replacement
rear crossmember/bumpers are available mail order.
As a reference, I spent two years and change redoing my -5, but I went
through everything down to the last nut, bolt and washer. YMMV, but the
temptation to "fix this now while I've got it apart, oh, and this, and
that doesn't look so good..." can be irresistable.
Good luck!
On Thu, 6 May 2004, HomeBrewer wrote:
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
> www.rcparkflyers.com
> Remove the xxx to reply!
>
>
>
>
>
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
If you are getting a new tub, save your old one as a reference. Even tubs
that are supposed to be pre-drilled will lack some holes and it is a whole
lot easier to go out behind the garage with a tape than to drive down to
the junkyard. Think: Oh, crap. They didn't drill the mounting and
plumbing holes for the heater box.
Like other posters suggested, a camera or sketch pad to document
assemblies that you might not come back to for months will be a lifesaver
(Oh, crap! Was this the left side or the right?). Lacking a digital
camera I used those disposable cardboard ones and the local cheapie photo
shop -- it is also nice to be able to go back and see what it looked like
after you are done. White tape and a Sharpie marker helped me keep track
of some parts. Large baggies for small parts or hardware came in handy
too. A few times I simply wired the baggies to larger parts and sent them
to the "clean it up and put it back together later" parts pile.
When I ressurected (not really a restoration but an amazingly life-like
recreation) my `79 CJ-5 I found that my 4 1/2" grinder was a favorite
tool. Buy a big handful of cut-off wheels and a handful of medium-grit
flap sanders.
While it is apart, you'll probably find that you should replace all the
tubing. If it is in your budget I suggest buying pre-bent stainless brake
tubing. I did, but I bent my own fuel lines and it nearly drove me to
drink -- and that was with the tub off.
A handful of taps will come in handy for cleaning up threaded holes.
If your tub is that rusty, be sure to check the last two feet of your
frame. Whack the inside of the box hard with a hammer. If it breaks
through you were going to want to repair that part anyway. Replacement
rear crossmember/bumpers are available mail order.
As a reference, I spent two years and change redoing my -5, but I went
through everything down to the last nut, bolt and washer. YMMV, but the
temptation to "fix this now while I've got it apart, oh, and this, and
that doesn't look so good..." can be irresistable.
Good luck!
On Thu, 6 May 2004, HomeBrewer wrote:
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
> www.rcparkflyers.com
> Remove the xxx to reply!
>
>
>
>
>
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
If you are getting a new tub, save your old one as a reference. Even tubs
that are supposed to be pre-drilled will lack some holes and it is a whole
lot easier to go out behind the garage with a tape than to drive down to
the junkyard. Think: Oh, crap. They didn't drill the mounting and
plumbing holes for the heater box.
Like other posters suggested, a camera or sketch pad to document
assemblies that you might not come back to for months will be a lifesaver
(Oh, crap! Was this the left side or the right?). Lacking a digital
camera I used those disposable cardboard ones and the local cheapie photo
shop -- it is also nice to be able to go back and see what it looked like
after you are done. White tape and a Sharpie marker helped me keep track
of some parts. Large baggies for small parts or hardware came in handy
too. A few times I simply wired the baggies to larger parts and sent them
to the "clean it up and put it back together later" parts pile.
When I ressurected (not really a restoration but an amazingly life-like
recreation) my `79 CJ-5 I found that my 4 1/2" grinder was a favorite
tool. Buy a big handful of cut-off wheels and a handful of medium-grit
flap sanders.
While it is apart, you'll probably find that you should replace all the
tubing. If it is in your budget I suggest buying pre-bent stainless brake
tubing. I did, but I bent my own fuel lines and it nearly drove me to
drink -- and that was with the tub off.
A handful of taps will come in handy for cleaning up threaded holes.
If your tub is that rusty, be sure to check the last two feet of your
frame. Whack the inside of the box hard with a hammer. If it breaks
through you were going to want to repair that part anyway. Replacement
rear crossmember/bumpers are available mail order.
As a reference, I spent two years and change redoing my -5, but I went
through everything down to the last nut, bolt and washer. YMMV, but the
temptation to "fix this now while I've got it apart, oh, and this, and
that doesn't look so good..." can be irresistable.
Good luck!
On Thu, 6 May 2004, HomeBrewer wrote:
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
> www.rcparkflyers.com
> Remove the xxx to reply!
>
>
>
>
>
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
If you are getting a new tub, save your old one as a reference. Even tubs
that are supposed to be pre-drilled will lack some holes and it is a whole
lot easier to go out behind the garage with a tape than to drive down to
the junkyard. Think: Oh, crap. They didn't drill the mounting and
plumbing holes for the heater box.
Like other posters suggested, a camera or sketch pad to document
assemblies that you might not come back to for months will be a lifesaver
(Oh, crap! Was this the left side or the right?). Lacking a digital
camera I used those disposable cardboard ones and the local cheapie photo
shop -- it is also nice to be able to go back and see what it looked like
after you are done. White tape and a Sharpie marker helped me keep track
of some parts. Large baggies for small parts or hardware came in handy
too. A few times I simply wired the baggies to larger parts and sent them
to the "clean it up and put it back together later" parts pile.
When I ressurected (not really a restoration but an amazingly life-like
recreation) my `79 CJ-5 I found that my 4 1/2" grinder was a favorite
tool. Buy a big handful of cut-off wheels and a handful of medium-grit
flap sanders.
While it is apart, you'll probably find that you should replace all the
tubing. If it is in your budget I suggest buying pre-bent stainless brake
tubing. I did, but I bent my own fuel lines and it nearly drove me to
drink -- and that was with the tub off.
A handful of taps will come in handy for cleaning up threaded holes.
If your tub is that rusty, be sure to check the last two feet of your
frame. Whack the inside of the box hard with a hammer. If it breaks
through you were going to want to repair that part anyway. Replacement
rear crossmember/bumpers are available mail order.
As a reference, I spent two years and change redoing my -5, but I went
through everything down to the last nut, bolt and washer. YMMV, but the
temptation to "fix this now while I've got it apart, oh, and this, and
that doesn't look so good..." can be irresistable.
Good luck!
On Thu, 6 May 2004, HomeBrewer wrote:
> I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need to
> know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else "must
> have" tools should I get.
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
> www.rcparkflyers.com
> Remove the xxx to reply!
>
>
>
>
>
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Project beginning
i hear ya! i'm going throught that right now...the budget keeps getting
bigger 'cause i keep adding stuff to replace while the whole thing is
apart....i'm pretty much going to replace every seal and gasket there is.
after almost 20 years, some of this stuff just ain't working too well!
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0405070935470.15636@panix3.pani x.com...
>
> If you are getting a new tub, save your old one as a reference. Even tubs
> that are supposed to be pre-drilled will lack some holes and it is a whole
> lot easier to go out behind the garage with a tape than to drive down to
> the junkyard. Think: Oh, crap. They didn't drill the mounting and
> plumbing holes for the heater box.
>
> Like other posters suggested, a camera or sketch pad to document
> assemblies that you might not come back to for months will be a lifesaver
> (Oh, crap! Was this the left side or the right?). Lacking a digital
> camera I used those disposable cardboard ones and the local cheapie photo
> shop -- it is also nice to be able to go back and see what it looked like
> after you are done. White tape and a Sharpie marker helped me keep track
> of some parts. Large baggies for small parts or hardware came in handy
> too. A few times I simply wired the baggies to larger parts and sent them
> to the "clean it up and put it back together later" parts pile.
>
> When I ressurected (not really a restoration but an amazingly life-like
> recreation) my `79 CJ-5 I found that my 4 1/2" grinder was a favorite
> tool. Buy a big handful of cut-off wheels and a handful of medium-grit
> flap sanders.
>
> While it is apart, you'll probably find that you should replace all the
> tubing. If it is in your budget I suggest buying pre-bent stainless brake
> tubing. I did, but I bent my own fuel lines and it nearly drove me to
> drink -- and that was with the tub off.
>
> A handful of taps will come in handy for cleaning up threaded holes.
>
> If your tub is that rusty, be sure to check the last two feet of your
> frame. Whack the inside of the box hard with a hammer. If it breaks
> through you were going to want to repair that part anyway. Replacement
> rear crossmember/bumpers are available mail order.
>
> As a reference, I spent two years and change redoing my -5, but I went
> through everything down to the last nut, bolt and washer. YMMV, but the
> temptation to "fix this now while I've got it apart, oh, and this, and
> that doesn't look so good..." can be irresistable.
>
> Good luck!
>
>
>
> On Thu, 6 May 2004, HomeBrewer wrote:
>
> > I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> > project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> > eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need
to
> > know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> > tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else
"must
> > have" tools should I get.
> >
> > --
> > HomeBrewer
> >
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
> > www.rcparkflyers.com
> > Remove the xxx to reply!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
bigger 'cause i keep adding stuff to replace while the whole thing is
apart....i'm pretty much going to replace every seal and gasket there is.
after almost 20 years, some of this stuff just ain't working too well!
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0405070935470.15636@panix3.pani x.com...
>
> If you are getting a new tub, save your old one as a reference. Even tubs
> that are supposed to be pre-drilled will lack some holes and it is a whole
> lot easier to go out behind the garage with a tape than to drive down to
> the junkyard. Think: Oh, crap. They didn't drill the mounting and
> plumbing holes for the heater box.
>
> Like other posters suggested, a camera or sketch pad to document
> assemblies that you might not come back to for months will be a lifesaver
> (Oh, crap! Was this the left side or the right?). Lacking a digital
> camera I used those disposable cardboard ones and the local cheapie photo
> shop -- it is also nice to be able to go back and see what it looked like
> after you are done. White tape and a Sharpie marker helped me keep track
> of some parts. Large baggies for small parts or hardware came in handy
> too. A few times I simply wired the baggies to larger parts and sent them
> to the "clean it up and put it back together later" parts pile.
>
> When I ressurected (not really a restoration but an amazingly life-like
> recreation) my `79 CJ-5 I found that my 4 1/2" grinder was a favorite
> tool. Buy a big handful of cut-off wheels and a handful of medium-grit
> flap sanders.
>
> While it is apart, you'll probably find that you should replace all the
> tubing. If it is in your budget I suggest buying pre-bent stainless brake
> tubing. I did, but I bent my own fuel lines and it nearly drove me to
> drink -- and that was with the tub off.
>
> A handful of taps will come in handy for cleaning up threaded holes.
>
> If your tub is that rusty, be sure to check the last two feet of your
> frame. Whack the inside of the box hard with a hammer. If it breaks
> through you were going to want to repair that part anyway. Replacement
> rear crossmember/bumpers are available mail order.
>
> As a reference, I spent two years and change redoing my -5, but I went
> through everything down to the last nut, bolt and washer. YMMV, but the
> temptation to "fix this now while I've got it apart, oh, and this, and
> that doesn't look so good..." can be irresistable.
>
> Good luck!
>
>
>
> On Thu, 6 May 2004, HomeBrewer wrote:
>
> > I'm getting ready to remove the rusty tub on my 85 cj7 and begin the
> > project. I'm not sure if I'm getting a fiberglass tub or used steel, but
> > eith way I'm removing the old one and having the frame painted. I need
to
> > know what tools I should have on hand prior to the task. I have a set of
> > tools for most back yard operations and an air compressor - what else
"must
> > have" tools should I get.
> >
> > --
> > HomeBrewer
> >
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
> > www.rcparkflyers.com
> > Remove the xxx to reply!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >