mabar

That is an anti-sway bar link. The factory part number is: #52087771AB. The
dealer list price is $45. Same part number fits either the right or left
side.

The factory link has a plastic "ball joint" on the top. The joint fails and
is not replaceable. You must replace the entire link either with the factory
or aftermarket part. I had both the right and left side fail about a year
apart. When the joint fails, it makes a loud "clunking" sound. My first one
was replaced under warranty. I replaced the second one myself.

You just un-bolt the bottom of the link, then un-bolt the top of the link.
The top of the link has a tapered shaft that is pressed into the anti-sway
bar very tightly. It must be pried loose. I used a Tie-Rod Separator tool
that is inexpensive and can be purchased at any auto parts store. It is a
"forked" shaped tool that you jam between the link and the anti-sway bar,
then lever it up and down until the link breaks loose from the bar.

Here is a photo of the tie rod separator tool

http://tinyurl.com/5kwgx

Tom

<dooodahman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105371270.821924.205890@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> Is the "ball joint portion" the top or the bottom, and how do you tell
> if it is just the bushing or the whole link?
>
> Andrew
>

mabar

That is an anti-sway bar link. The factory part number is: #52087771AB. The
dealer list price is $45. Same part number fits either the right or left
side.

The factory link has a plastic "ball joint" on the top. The joint fails and
is not replaceable. You must replace the entire link either with the factory
or aftermarket part. I had both the right and left side fail about a year
apart. When the joint fails, it makes a loud "clunking" sound. My first one
was replaced under warranty. I replaced the second one myself.

You just un-bolt the bottom of the link, then un-bolt the top of the link.
The top of the link has a tapered shaft that is pressed into the anti-sway
bar very tightly. It must be pried loose. I used a Tie-Rod Separator tool
that is inexpensive and can be purchased at any auto parts store. It is a
"forked" shaped tool that you jam between the link and the anti-sway bar,
then lever it up and down until the link breaks loose from the bar.

Here is a photo of the tie rod separator tool

http://tinyurl.com/5kwgx

Tom

<dooodahman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105371270.821924.205890@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> Is the "ball joint portion" the top or the bottom, and how do you tell
> if it is just the bushing or the whole link?
>
> Andrew
>

mabar

You can't just change the bushing. You must change the entire link.

Tom

<dooodahman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105373019.001121.19950@c13g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I am
> changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt on
> the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole link?
> Andrew
>

mabar

You can't just change the bushing. You must change the entire link.

Tom

<dooodahman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105373019.001121.19950@c13g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I am
> changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt on
> the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole link?
> Andrew
>

mabar

You can't just change the bushing. You must change the entire link.

Tom

<dooodahman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105373019.001121.19950@c13g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I am
> changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt on
> the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole link?
> Andrew
>

mabar

The original factory stabilizer bar link can be ordered here:

http://tinyurl.com/5j6nk

List price: $45. Their price: $32.85. You can probably print out that page
and take it to your local Jeep dealer. They will probably match the price
and they will probably have the part in stock, since it is a common failure
problem.

Tom


<dooodahman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105373019.001121.19950@c13g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I am
> changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt on
> the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole link?
> Andrew
>

mabar

The original factory stabilizer bar link can be ordered here:

http://tinyurl.com/5j6nk

List price: $45. Their price: $32.85. You can probably print out that page
and take it to your local Jeep dealer. They will probably match the price
and they will probably have the part in stock, since it is a common failure
problem.

Tom


<dooodahman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105373019.001121.19950@c13g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I am
> changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt on
> the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole link?
> Andrew
>

mabar

The original factory stabilizer bar link can be ordered here:

http://tinyurl.com/5j6nk

List price: $45. Their price: $32.85. You can probably print out that page
and take it to your local Jeep dealer. They will probably match the price
and they will probably have the part in stock, since it is a common failure
problem.

Tom


<dooodahman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105373019.001121.19950@c13g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Nice. I just went out and looked at it again. It looks like if I am
> changeing the bushing only, i shouldn't have to remove the torx bolt on
> the bottom. Is that correct? Or will I have to remove the whole link?
> Andrew
>

Matt Macchiarolo

Hmm...looks similar to your Bronco's front end...
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:41E2D065.B3692061@***.net...
> Yes, we have Real jeeps, with replaceable bushings, and none of
> this bouncy cushy weak stuff for us:
> http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/tech/FrontSusp.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > My error, sorry. I have a CJ and my links have bushings top and bottom.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > FrankW wrote:
> > >
> > > No I'm talking about the anti-sway bar link.
> > > The bottom which connects to the axle cannot
> > > separate unless the bolt broke. The top
> > > part of the link, which connects to the anti-sway bar,
> > > is the part that separated on mine. It's covered with
> > > a boot and it sure looked like a Ball joint when it
> > > was separated for me to see. Maybe my description is
> > > wrong As I'm surely no mechanic.
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > > I think you are talking about the track bar with the ball joint on
one
> > > > end. He is talking sway bar links.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > FrankW wrote:
> > > >
> > > >>Chances are, the ball-joint portion of the link is toast.
> > > >>I've just replaced mine at 90,000 Km's You'll have to
> > > >>replace the whole link if the ball-joint part is broke.
> > > >>Rather than the bushings.
> > > >>
> > > >>dooodahman@gmail.com wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>>Than you very much. Having a name for things helps a lot. The
dealer
> > > >>>wants $13 for the bushing and $180 to replace it. So....I am
thinking
> > > >>>of doing it myself. Any tricks to it, or just unscrew the bolt
replace
> > > >>>the bushing, screw in the bolt? Also, what do I need to jack up?
the
> > > >>>axel or the frame or neither?
> > > >>>
> > > >>>Andrew
> > > >>>

Matt Macchiarolo

Hmm...looks similar to your Bronco's front end...
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:41E2D065.B3692061@***.net...
> Yes, we have Real jeeps, with replaceable bushings, and none of
> this bouncy cushy weak stuff for us:
> http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/tech/FrontSusp.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > My error, sorry. I have a CJ and my links have bushings top and bottom.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > FrankW wrote:
> > >
> > > No I'm talking about the anti-sway bar link.
> > > The bottom which connects to the axle cannot
> > > separate unless the bolt broke. The top
> > > part of the link, which connects to the anti-sway bar,
> > > is the part that separated on mine. It's covered with
> > > a boot and it sure looked like a Ball joint when it
> > > was separated for me to see. Maybe my description is
> > > wrong As I'm surely no mechanic.
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > > I think you are talking about the track bar with the ball joint on
one
> > > > end. He is talking sway bar links.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > FrankW wrote:
> > > >
> > > >>Chances are, the ball-joint portion of the link is toast.
> > > >>I've just replaced mine at 90,000 Km's You'll have to
> > > >>replace the whole link if the ball-joint part is broke.
> > > >>Rather than the bushings.
> > > >>
> > > >>dooodahman@gmail.com wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>>Than you very much. Having a name for things helps a lot. The
dealer
> > > >>>wants $13 for the bushing and $180 to replace it. So....I am
thinking
> > > >>>of doing it myself. Any tricks to it, or just unscrew the bolt
replace
> > > >>>the bushing, screw in the bolt? Also, what do I need to jack up?
the
> > > >>>axel or the frame or neither?
> > > >>>
> > > >>>Andrew
> > > >>>