|
Re: Code Scanner (was: P0303 and Coolant)
In my opinion, no you do not need any more frills than you get for $65 to
$85. Actron seems to offer 4 models, with the two you are looking at as the mid-priced units. Of the two, I'd go with the higher end unit, but I'm hard pressed to tell you why. I think a code reader is an important addition to your tool chest. I know it would be a handy addition to mine. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:gwmah.3509$sf5.2940@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > What defines a _good_ code scanner? This is primary on my list this year. > I was thinking of the $65-85 one that pretty much reads and clears the > codes (the one at Autozone, an Actron model). Do I, as someone who can > fix/replace the simple stuff like brakes but is baffled by carb guts, need > the more advanced frills? > Tomes > > "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message > news:MZOdnZUMIYl6AvXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@softcom.net. .. >> ....... Also, this is a good time to drop hints that you need a good code >> scanner, since Santa is generous this year. > > |
Re: Code Scanner (was: P0303 and Coolant)
In my opinion, no you do not need any more frills than you get for $65 to
$85. Actron seems to offer 4 models, with the two you are looking at as the mid-priced units. Of the two, I'd go with the higher end unit, but I'm hard pressed to tell you why. I think a code reader is an important addition to your tool chest. I know it would be a handy addition to mine. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:gwmah.3509$sf5.2940@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > What defines a _good_ code scanner? This is primary on my list this year. > I was thinking of the $65-85 one that pretty much reads and clears the > codes (the one at Autozone, an Actron model). Do I, as someone who can > fix/replace the simple stuff like brakes but is baffled by carb guts, need > the more advanced frills? > Tomes > > "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message > news:MZOdnZUMIYl6AvXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@softcom.net. .. >> ....... Also, this is a good time to drop hints that you need a good code >> scanner, since Santa is generous this year. > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum
plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 but then their technology is over 20 years old now. I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech offerings. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > Tomes > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum
plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 but then their technology is over 20 years old now. I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech offerings. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > Tomes > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum
plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 but then their technology is over 20 years old now. I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech offerings. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > Tomes > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > |
Re: Code Scanner
There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew that is a mystery to me.) Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: Code Scanner
There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew that is a mystery to me.) Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: Code Scanner
There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew that is a mystery to me.) Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life between any of them. My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the choice of Cavemen everywhere. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life between any of them. My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the choice of Cavemen everywhere. |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:43 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands