SnoMan

On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:21:06 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
>good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
>voltage light was easy.


Obviously you do not because the reason they use reduced voltage
lights around pools and outside is to reduce threat of shock. Only a
idiot would sugeest to upgrade a 24 volt pool light system to wall
voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you
post in other areas so this is no surprise.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan

On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:21:06 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
>good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
>voltage light was easy.


Obviously you do not because the reason they use reduced voltage
lights around pools and outside is to reduce threat of shock. Only a
idiot would sugeest to upgrade a 24 volt pool light system to wall
voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you
post in other areas so this is no surprise.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan

On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:21:06 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
>good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
>voltage light was easy.


Obviously you do not because the reason they use reduced voltage
lights around pools and outside is to reduce threat of shock. Only a
idiot would sugeest to upgrade a 24 volt pool light system to wall
voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you
post in other areas so this is no surprise.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

Mike Romain

SnoMan wrote:
> On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:21:06 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
>> good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
>> voltage light was easy.
>
>
> Obviously you do not because the reason they use reduced voltage
> lights around pools and outside is to reduce threat of shock. Only a
> idiot would sugeest to upgrade a 24 volt pool light system to wall
> voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you
> post in other areas so this is no surprise.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Listen you insane lying brain dead stalker twerp, 'his' light box is in
a planter and the one I did is behind the 220 panel for the pool motors
sitting right below the light box.

The light box is a 120V unit with the spin motor running on line voltage
and a stepdown transformer to give the 'light' only 12 or 24 volts.

Now once again go screw yourself!

Internet Stalkers are not cool these days as mentioned before or 'Why
Lord can't I at least get a halfway intelligent stalker not some brain
dead -------'????

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Mike Romain

SnoMan wrote:
> On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:21:06 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
>> good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
>> voltage light was easy.
>
>
> Obviously you do not because the reason they use reduced voltage
> lights around pools and outside is to reduce threat of shock. Only a
> idiot would sugeest to upgrade a 24 volt pool light system to wall
> voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you
> post in other areas so this is no surprise.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Listen you insane lying brain dead stalker twerp, 'his' light box is in
a planter and the one I did is behind the 220 panel for the pool motors
sitting right below the light box.

The light box is a 120V unit with the spin motor running on line voltage
and a stepdown transformer to give the 'light' only 12 or 24 volts.

Now once again go screw yourself!

Internet Stalkers are not cool these days as mentioned before or 'Why
Lord can't I at least get a halfway intelligent stalker not some brain
dead -------'????

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Mike Romain

SnoMan wrote:
> On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:21:06 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
>> good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
>> voltage light was easy.
>
>
> Obviously you do not because the reason they use reduced voltage
> lights around pools and outside is to reduce threat of shock. Only a
> idiot would sugeest to upgrade a 24 volt pool light system to wall
> voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you
> post in other areas so this is no surprise.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Listen you insane lying brain dead stalker twerp, 'his' light box is in
a planter and the one I did is behind the 220 panel for the pool motors
sitting right below the light box.

The light box is a 120V unit with the spin motor running on line voltage
and a stepdown transformer to give the 'light' only 12 or 24 volts.

Now once again go screw yourself!

Internet Stalkers are not cool these days as mentioned before or 'Why
Lord can't I at least get a halfway intelligent stalker not some brain
dead -------'????

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Mike Romain

SnoMan wrote:
> On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:21:06 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I also have worked on pools in various sizes since the 70's and have a
>> good working knowledge of the power setups so swapping over to a line
>> voltage light was easy.
>
>
> Obviously you do not because the reason they use reduced voltage
> lights around pools and outside is to reduce threat of shock. Only a
> idiot would sugeest to upgrade a 24 volt pool light system to wall
> voltage. It does kinda fall in line with other comments or ideas you
> post in other areas so this is no surprise.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Listen you insane lying brain dead stalker twerp, 'his' light box is in
a planter and the one I did is behind the 220 panel for the pool motors
sitting right below the light box.

The light box is a 120V unit with the spin motor running on line voltage
and a stepdown transformer to give the 'light' only 12 or 24 volts.

Now once again go screw yourself!

Internet Stalkers are not cool these days as mentioned before or 'Why
Lord can't I at least get a halfway intelligent stalker not some brain
dead -------'????

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Jeff Strickland

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:h94s539oob0erh7gklqp25ph56sh759cle@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:23:29 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>Adding insult to stupidity, my meter told me that the lamp was very nearly
>>a
>>dead short -- as you said it should be -- and that the transformer I had
>>wasn't putting out anything. Now that I bought a new transformer, I find
>>that the lamp is toast and the old transformer is actually still good. I
>>haven't figured out if the meter lied, or I asked the wrong questions --
>>it
>>is loaded up with a ---- load of buttons and input taps, and it seems now
>>that I may not have pressed the right buttons and filled the right taps.
>
>
> Listen, first of all, you are not stupid just because you do not know
> something, that is why you ask questions. Stupid is not even asking
> the question.

The part you missed is where I said, in another part of the thread, that I
built the meter from a kit. If anybody knows how to use this particular
meter, it should be me.



Some multimeters can be a bit confusing but generallt
> you use one set of lead connections for volt and ohms and another for
> AMP if your meter supports that (those terminals have a shunt accross
> them internally for current measurements) You always what to use 1K
> range on ohm meter when checking light bulbs. Also transformers
> generally rarely fail and when they do there is usually little doubt
> because they will appear or smell burnt. Only a few things can kill a
> transformer. The first is overloading it and it overheats and
> insulation in winding break down and it shorts out internally. The
> second is that a winding open up internall which is really rare in a
> power transformer and the third it insulation break down from time and
> heat which cause it to short internally.



Properly sized for load a
> power transfomer can live many many years.

This one has lived for 11 years outside in the garden. It's mounted inside a
box, but it is still a relativley hostile environment for this sort of
stuff. There are bugs living in the box that the transformer lives in. The
light uses 250W, which makes lots of heat -- a Suzy Home Maker Kitchen is
safer to use -- so it needs large holes to draw air through.

Jeff Strickland

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:h94s539oob0erh7gklqp25ph56sh759cle@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:23:29 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>Adding insult to stupidity, my meter told me that the lamp was very nearly
>>a
>>dead short -- as you said it should be -- and that the transformer I had
>>wasn't putting out anything. Now that I bought a new transformer, I find
>>that the lamp is toast and the old transformer is actually still good. I
>>haven't figured out if the meter lied, or I asked the wrong questions --
>>it
>>is loaded up with a ---- load of buttons and input taps, and it seems now
>>that I may not have pressed the right buttons and filled the right taps.
>
>
> Listen, first of all, you are not stupid just because you do not know
> something, that is why you ask questions. Stupid is not even asking
> the question.

The part you missed is where I said, in another part of the thread, that I
built the meter from a kit. If anybody knows how to use this particular
meter, it should be me.



Some multimeters can be a bit confusing but generallt
> you use one set of lead connections for volt and ohms and another for
> AMP if your meter supports that (those terminals have a shunt accross
> them internally for current measurements) You always what to use 1K
> range on ohm meter when checking light bulbs. Also transformers
> generally rarely fail and when they do there is usually little doubt
> because they will appear or smell burnt. Only a few things can kill a
> transformer. The first is overloading it and it overheats and
> insulation in winding break down and it shorts out internally. The
> second is that a winding open up internall which is really rare in a
> power transformer and the third it insulation break down from time and
> heat which cause it to short internally.



Properly sized for load a
> power transfomer can live many many years.

This one has lived for 11 years outside in the garden. It's mounted inside a
box, but it is still a relativley hostile environment for this sort of
stuff. There are bugs living in the box that the transformer lives in. The
light uses 250W, which makes lots of heat -- a Suzy Home Maker Kitchen is
safer to use -- so it needs large holes to draw air through.

Jeff Strickland

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:h94s539oob0erh7gklqp25ph56sh759cle@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 30 May 2007 17:23:29 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>Adding insult to stupidity, my meter told me that the lamp was very nearly
>>a
>>dead short -- as you said it should be -- and that the transformer I had
>>wasn't putting out anything. Now that I bought a new transformer, I find
>>that the lamp is toast and the old transformer is actually still good. I
>>haven't figured out if the meter lied, or I asked the wrong questions --
>>it
>>is loaded up with a ---- load of buttons and input taps, and it seems now
>>that I may not have pressed the right buttons and filled the right taps.
>
>
> Listen, first of all, you are not stupid just because you do not know
> something, that is why you ask questions. Stupid is not even asking
> the question.

The part you missed is where I said, in another part of the thread, that I
built the meter from a kit. If anybody knows how to use this particular
meter, it should be me.



Some multimeters can be a bit confusing but generallt
> you use one set of lead connections for volt and ohms and another for
> AMP if your meter supports that (those terminals have a shunt accross
> them internally for current measurements) You always what to use 1K
> range on ohm meter when checking light bulbs. Also transformers
> generally rarely fail and when they do there is usually little doubt
> because they will appear or smell burnt. Only a few things can kill a
> transformer. The first is overloading it and it overheats and
> insulation in winding break down and it shorts out internally. The
> second is that a winding open up internall which is really rare in a
> power transformer and the third it insulation break down from time and
> heat which cause it to short internally.



Properly sized for load a
> power transfomer can live many many years.

This one has lived for 11 years outside in the garden. It's mounted inside a
box, but it is still a relativley hostile environment for this sort of
stuff. There are bugs living in the box that the transformer lives in. The
light uses 250W, which makes lots of heat -- a Suzy Home Maker Kitchen is
safer to use -- so it needs large holes to draw air through.