Yup, for sure.

Some turn into pin cushions.

If the engine is totally dry, it might be ok, but if the engine is
seeping anywhere, forget it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Skip wrote:
>
> I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce leaks
> in the seals...
>
> Opinions???
>
> --
> Skip
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
> message news:401EB407.2090600@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > Well, you said it...
> > >
> > > You had a dead engine before 100 K miles.
> > >
> > > Most folks get 200 to 300K before they have to do engine work on the
> > > 258's or 4.0's.
> > >
> > > Your method obviously doesn't work at all....
> >
> > I would definitely not go with his method either. Mobil 1 is cheap
> > enough these days ($18 for a 5 quart jug at wal-mart, or approximately
> > twice as much at bargain price dino oil). And no matter how good the oil
> > is the filter is bound to miss or reintroduce some stuff. That said:
> >
> > > Oil builds up contaminants from combustion and needs to be changed on a
> > > regular schedule no matter how fancy the oil....
> >
> > I'm not an oil expert but I did do a lot of reading on synthetics in
> > preparation to recommending them (or not) to be used in the fleet
> > vehicles of the company I work for.
> >
> > As I understand it pure synthetics like Mobil 1 do not have the same
> > sort of interaction that dino oil does in the combustion chamber, it
> > never gets the "varnish" that eventually turns into sludge. In addition
> > it is extremely good as devolving away any sludge that already exists
> > (if you're putting it in an engine that is already sludged up).
> > Basically dino oil no matter how well it's refined has organic matter
> > that burns at combustion temps, the oil traps it and most of it is too
> > small to get filtered eventually like sediment it ends up in nooks and
> > crannies, and you eventually get clogged oil galleys sludged up valves
> > etc. Synthetics don't produce the combustion by products in the first
> place.
> >
> > However it does have additives that become less effective over time just
> > like dino oil, and that is why it's generally recommended to change it
> > and the filter at normal 3000 miles intervals, even though it may look
> > just as clear as the day you put it in there.
> >
> > It is also considered much better for hard driving (towing and off-road)
> > tends to leave a good layer of oil on parts that dino oil drains off of
> > faster (in terms of start up friction). This is supposedly where pure
> > synthetics add most of their wear reduction benefit. It has a much lower
> > friction coefficient at startup and remains much slicker while warming
> > up until more is pulled up and is flowing into all the vital spots.
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> >

 

Yup, for sure.

Some turn into pin cushions.

If the engine is totally dry, it might be ok, but if the engine is
seeping anywhere, forget it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Skip wrote:
>
> I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce leaks
> in the seals...
>
> Opinions???
>
> --
> Skip
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
> message news:401EB407.2090600@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > Well, you said it...
> > >
> > > You had a dead engine before 100 K miles.
> > >
> > > Most folks get 200 to 300K before they have to do engine work on the
> > > 258's or 4.0's.
> > >
> > > Your method obviously doesn't work at all....
> >
> > I would definitely not go with his method either. Mobil 1 is cheap
> > enough these days ($18 for a 5 quart jug at wal-mart, or approximately
> > twice as much at bargain price dino oil). And no matter how good the oil
> > is the filter is bound to miss or reintroduce some stuff. That said:
> >
> > > Oil builds up contaminants from combustion and needs to be changed on a
> > > regular schedule no matter how fancy the oil....
> >
> > I'm not an oil expert but I did do a lot of reading on synthetics in
> > preparation to recommending them (or not) to be used in the fleet
> > vehicles of the company I work for.
> >
> > As I understand it pure synthetics like Mobil 1 do not have the same
> > sort of interaction that dino oil does in the combustion chamber, it
> > never gets the "varnish" that eventually turns into sludge. In addition
> > it is extremely good as devolving away any sludge that already exists
> > (if you're putting it in an engine that is already sludged up).
> > Basically dino oil no matter how well it's refined has organic matter
> > that burns at combustion temps, the oil traps it and most of it is too
> > small to get filtered eventually like sediment it ends up in nooks and
> > crannies, and you eventually get clogged oil galleys sludged up valves
> > etc. Synthetics don't produce the combustion by products in the first
> place.
> >
> > However it does have additives that become less effective over time just
> > like dino oil, and that is why it's generally recommended to change it
> > and the filter at normal 3000 miles intervals, even though it may look
> > just as clear as the day you put it in there.
> >
> > It is also considered much better for hard driving (towing and off-road)
> > tends to leave a good layer of oil on parts that dino oil drains off of
> > faster (in terms of start up friction). This is supposedly where pure
> > synthetics add most of their wear reduction benefit. It has a much lower
> > friction coefficient at startup and remains much slicker while warming
> > up until more is pulled up and is flowing into all the vital spots.
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> >

 

Yup, for sure.

Some turn into pin cushions.

If the engine is totally dry, it might be ok, but if the engine is
seeping anywhere, forget it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Skip wrote:
>
> I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce leaks
> in the seals...
>
> Opinions???
>
> --
> Skip
>
> "Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
> message news:401EB407.2090600@usefirstinitialandlastnameAT erols.com...
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > Well, you said it...
> > >
> > > You had a dead engine before 100 K miles.
> > >
> > > Most folks get 200 to 300K before they have to do engine work on the
> > > 258's or 4.0's.
> > >
> > > Your method obviously doesn't work at all....
> >
> > I would definitely not go with his method either. Mobil 1 is cheap
> > enough these days ($18 for a 5 quart jug at wal-mart, or approximately
> > twice as much at bargain price dino oil). And no matter how good the oil
> > is the filter is bound to miss or reintroduce some stuff. That said:
> >
> > > Oil builds up contaminants from combustion and needs to be changed on a
> > > regular schedule no matter how fancy the oil....
> >
> > I'm not an oil expert but I did do a lot of reading on synthetics in
> > preparation to recommending them (or not) to be used in the fleet
> > vehicles of the company I work for.
> >
> > As I understand it pure synthetics like Mobil 1 do not have the same
> > sort of interaction that dino oil does in the combustion chamber, it
> > never gets the "varnish" that eventually turns into sludge. In addition
> > it is extremely good as devolving away any sludge that already exists
> > (if you're putting it in an engine that is already sludged up).
> > Basically dino oil no matter how well it's refined has organic matter
> > that burns at combustion temps, the oil traps it and most of it is too
> > small to get filtered eventually like sediment it ends up in nooks and
> > crannies, and you eventually get clogged oil galleys sludged up valves
> > etc. Synthetics don't produce the combustion by products in the first
> place.
> >
> > However it does have additives that become less effective over time just
> > like dino oil, and that is why it's generally recommended to change it
> > and the filter at normal 3000 miles intervals, even though it may look
> > just as clear as the day you put it in there.
> >
> > It is also considered much better for hard driving (towing and off-road)
> > tends to leave a good layer of oil on parts that dino oil drains off of
> > faster (in terms of start up friction). This is supposedly where pure
> > synthetics add most of their wear reduction benefit. It has a much lower
> > friction coefficient at startup and remains much slicker while warming
> > up until more is pulled up and is flowing into all the vital spots.
> >
> > --
> > Simon
> > "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> >

 

Skip did pass the time by typing:
> I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce leaks
> in the seals...
>
> Opinions???

What putting a synthetic into an engine will do is
break down gunk that may be providing a seal and allow
some oil to leak through. This is an indication you need
to fix the seal or rebuild since engine seals shouldn't
rely on crud to prevent leaks.

--
DougW

 

Skip did pass the time by typing:
> I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce leaks
> in the seals...
>
> Opinions???

What putting a synthetic into an engine will do is
break down gunk that may be providing a seal and allow
some oil to leak through. This is an indication you need
to fix the seal or rebuild since engine seals shouldn't
rely on crud to prevent leaks.

--
DougW

 

Skip did pass the time by typing:
> I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce leaks
> in the seals...
>
> Opinions???

What putting a synthetic into an engine will do is
break down gunk that may be providing a seal and allow
some oil to leak through. This is an indication you need
to fix the seal or rebuild since engine seals shouldn't
rely on crud to prevent leaks.

--
DougW

 

yeah that was my thought...

--
Skip


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0uETb.29125$L_4.15052@okepread01...
> Skip did pass the time by typing:
> > I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce
leaks
> > in the seals...
> >
> > Opinions???
>
> What putting a synthetic into an engine will do is
> break down gunk that may be providing a seal and allow
> some oil to leak through. This is an indication you need
> to fix the seal or rebuild since engine seals shouldn't
> rely on crud to prevent leaks.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

yeah that was my thought...

--
Skip


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0uETb.29125$L_4.15052@okepread01...
> Skip did pass the time by typing:
> > I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce
leaks
> > in the seals...
> >
> > Opinions???
>
> What putting a synthetic into an engine will do is
> break down gunk that may be providing a seal and allow
> some oil to leak through. This is an indication you need
> to fix the seal or rebuild since engine seals shouldn't
> rely on crud to prevent leaks.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

yeah that was my thought...

--
Skip


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0uETb.29125$L_4.15052@okepread01...
> Skip did pass the time by typing:
> > I hear if you put Mobil 1 into a high miles engine it will introduce
leaks
> > in the seals...
> >
> > Opinions???
>
> What putting a synthetic into an engine will do is
> break down gunk that may be providing a seal and allow
> some oil to leak through. This is an indication you need
> to fix the seal or rebuild since engine seals shouldn't
> rely on crud to prevent leaks.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

You would have sounded more informed if you had said "The Society
of Automotive Engineers approved an industry standard test called the
“Single Pass Efficiency Test” (SPE) to measure a filter's ability to
remove contaminants from the engine’s system. The SPE Test is one of the
industry standards for evaluating and comparing oil filter performance,
and measures a filter's ability to remove less than 20 micron-sized
particles of dirt the first time through." -Fram
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> OK, then let me offer the facts that such oil filters will (or wont)
> qualify for compliance of the ASTM standard "OSU F-2 test stand" for a
> beta reduction value of ~100 (logrithm of the influent versus effluent
> particles) at rated particles per micron (micrometer) size. OSU being
> an acronymn for Oklahoma State University who designed the currently
> acccepted oil filter test stand methodology. If such a manufacturer (or
> rebranded labeler) woudnt comply to these 'industry' standards, then
> those in competition would be as visciously vocal as Howard Dean versus
> Kerry, Edwards, Clark, the rest of world, etc.
>
> With respect to 'recirculation' filtration the filter media of a more
> 'open' (larger) retention size will operate under less differential
> pressure (remaining laminar in throughput) hence filtering a vastlly
> greater total thoughput and particle capture (on a weight basis) per
> 'lifetime'. That the larger retention media's capability is larger
> does not mean less capture effeciency as it still has smaller particle
> retention capability at a lesser %; but, since is can handle MORE
> volumetric flow, the net effect of particle removal (per size) will be
> faster turnover to the desired resident particle distribution that is
> deemed non-injurious to the bearing, etc. clearances, etc. ... where
> the typical base line or resident particles deemed to be sufficiently
> small and non-injurious are at ~1/5 the diameter of the smallest
> 'equivalent' orfice of the system to be protected - electrostatic
> 'bridging' of the particles being a principal source of plugging,
> scoreing, etc.
>
> Since the principal function of a hydrodynamic bearing ( oil served
> plain journal) is to provide 'lift' versus the developed hydrodynamic
> pressure, the effect of particulate at less than 1/5 the operational
> bearing clearance is small, hence recirculating oil filtration can be
> quite 'coarse' and still do a reasonable job of extraneous wear
> protection.
>
> how's that?
>
> ;-)