Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Paul,
Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
joints, brakes, etc:
http://tinyurl.com/42skq
If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
and track bar. Replace as required:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Paul wrote:
> First off I rotated the front tires to the back one at a time to see
> which one had gone bad. Nothing changed in the steering as the fronts
> went to the back. I inspected all of the tires and they all looked
> good. No cracking or metal protrusion. I also tested the tires with
> a straight edge and they all looked good. No wobble.
>
> I then tried John's "wild a$$ed guess". I steered the wheels all the
> way to the left and tried to spin the left tire. It was very
> difficult but went I finally got it rotating it started to steer
> itself back(to the right) in about a half of a turn it started to
> steer itself to the left again. At about a full rotation it would
> stop and I could not turn it in that direction. If I wanted it to
> rotate I would have to go in the opposite direction to the way I was
> originally turning. Then the whole process would start over until it
> stopped in that direction. This would continue for a while until the
> wheels finally straightened themselves out so they were faced dead
> straight. I get no wobble when the wheels are facing straight and I
> spin them. By the way this was all with the engine turned off, so I
> no longer think it is the power steering.
>
> I know that sounds really confusing so if you do not understand what I
> trying to say, tell me and I will try again.
>
> So is John right? Is it a universal joint?
> As I was looking under the truck I do not even know if I would be able
> to save any of the front suspension. All of the bolts are rusted to
> hell. Can I clean these parts up or do they need to be replaced. For
> example the sway bar, can I just clean all of the rust off and then
> shoot it with a rust inhibiting paint? Everything is of coarse
> covered in surface rust but the castle nuts and pins that go through
> them are almost unrecognizable. Where to you guys get your suspension
> parts from?
>
> Thanks
> Paul
Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
joints, brakes, etc:
http://tinyurl.com/42skq
If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
and track bar. Replace as required:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Paul wrote:
> First off I rotated the front tires to the back one at a time to see
> which one had gone bad. Nothing changed in the steering as the fronts
> went to the back. I inspected all of the tires and they all looked
> good. No cracking or metal protrusion. I also tested the tires with
> a straight edge and they all looked good. No wobble.
>
> I then tried John's "wild a$$ed guess". I steered the wheels all the
> way to the left and tried to spin the left tire. It was very
> difficult but went I finally got it rotating it started to steer
> itself back(to the right) in about a half of a turn it started to
> steer itself to the left again. At about a full rotation it would
> stop and I could not turn it in that direction. If I wanted it to
> rotate I would have to go in the opposite direction to the way I was
> originally turning. Then the whole process would start over until it
> stopped in that direction. This would continue for a while until the
> wheels finally straightened themselves out so they were faced dead
> straight. I get no wobble when the wheels are facing straight and I
> spin them. By the way this was all with the engine turned off, so I
> no longer think it is the power steering.
>
> I know that sounds really confusing so if you do not understand what I
> trying to say, tell me and I will try again.
>
> So is John right? Is it a universal joint?
> As I was looking under the truck I do not even know if I would be able
> to save any of the front suspension. All of the bolts are rusted to
> hell. Can I clean these parts up or do they need to be replaced. For
> example the sway bar, can I just clean all of the rust off and then
> shoot it with a rust inhibiting paint? Everything is of coarse
> covered in surface rust but the castle nuts and pins that go through
> them are almost unrecognizable. Where to you guys get your suspension
> parts from?
>
> Thanks
> Paul
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
ones.
A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
that.
Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
am going to break something while doing this job.
Steve, thanks for the info and links.
Paul
> Paul,
>
> Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> joints, brakes, etc:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/42skq
>
> If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> and track bar. Replace as required:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
>
> Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
ones.
A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
that.
Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
am going to break something while doing this job.
Steve, thanks for the info and links.
Paul
> Paul,
>
> Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> joints, brakes, etc:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/42skq
>
> If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> and track bar. Replace as required:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
>
> Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
ones.
A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
that.
Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
am going to break something while doing this job.
Steve, thanks for the info and links.
Paul
> Paul,
>
> Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> joints, brakes, etc:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/42skq
>
> If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> and track bar. Replace as required:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
>
> Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
ones.
A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
that.
Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
am going to break something while doing this job.
Steve, thanks for the info and links.
Paul
> Paul,
>
> Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> joints, brakes, etc:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/42skq
>
> If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> and track bar. Replace as required:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
>
> Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
ones.
A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
that.
Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
am going to break something while doing this job.
Steve, thanks for the info and links.
Paul
> Paul,
>
> Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> joints, brakes, etc:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/42skq
>
> If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> and track bar. Replace as required:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
>
> Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
ones.
A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
that.
Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
am going to break something while doing this job.
Steve, thanks for the info and links.
Paul
> Paul,
>
> Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> joints, brakes, etc:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/42skq
>
> If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> and track bar. Replace as required:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
>
> Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
ones.
A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
that.
Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
am going to break something while doing this job.
Steve, thanks for the info and links.
Paul
> Paul,
>
> Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> joints, brakes, etc:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/42skq
>
> If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> and track bar. Replace as required:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
>
> Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
ones.
A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
that.
Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
am going to break something while doing this job.
Steve, thanks for the info and links.
Paul
> Paul,
>
> Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> joints, brakes, etc:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/42skq
>
> If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> and track bar. Replace as required:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
>
> Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
>
> Steve
> http://xjeep.dyndns.org
>
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
To change a front axle u-joint does not require you to take off more
than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
of it's mount.
A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
before starting the job.
I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul wrote:
>
> I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
> ones.
> A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
> SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
>
> A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
>
> Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
>
> I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
> bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
> lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
> that.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
> that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
> am going to break something while doing this job.
>
> Steve, thanks for the info and links.
>
> Paul
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> > how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> > joints, brakes, etc:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/42skq
> >
> > If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> > spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> > and track bar. Replace as required:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> > http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
> >
> > Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> > with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
> >
> > Steve
> > http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> >
than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
of it's mount.
A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
before starting the job.
I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul wrote:
>
> I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
> ones.
> A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
> SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
>
> A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
>
> Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
>
> I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
> bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
> lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
> that.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
> that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
> am going to break something while doing this job.
>
> Steve, thanks for the info and links.
>
> Paul
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> > how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> > joints, brakes, etc:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/42skq
> >
> > If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> > spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> > and track bar. Replace as required:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> > http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
> >
> > Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> > with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
> >
> > Steve
> > http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> >
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
To change a front axle u-joint does not require you to take off more
than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
of it's mount.
A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
before starting the job.
I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul wrote:
>
> I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
> ones.
> A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
> SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
>
> A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
>
> Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
>
> I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
> bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
> lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
> that.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
> that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
> am going to break something while doing this job.
>
> Steve, thanks for the info and links.
>
> Paul
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> > how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> > joints, brakes, etc:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/42skq
> >
> > If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> > spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> > and track bar. Replace as required:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> > http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
> >
> > Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> > with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
> >
> > Steve
> > http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> >
than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
of it's mount.
A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
before starting the job.
I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul wrote:
>
> I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
> ones.
> A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
> SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
>
> A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
>
> Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
>
> I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
> bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
> lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
> that.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
> that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
> am going to break something while doing this job.
>
> Steve, thanks for the info and links.
>
> Paul
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> > how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> > joints, brakes, etc:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/42skq
> >
> > If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> > spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> > and track bar. Replace as required:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> > http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
> >
> > Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> > with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
> >
> > Steve
> > http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> >
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
To change a front axle u-joint does not require you to take off more
than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
of it's mount.
A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
before starting the job.
I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul wrote:
>
> I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
> ones.
> A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
> SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
>
> A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
>
> Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
>
> I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
> bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
> lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
> that.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
> that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
> am going to break something while doing this job.
>
> Steve, thanks for the info and links.
>
> Paul
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> > how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> > joints, brakes, etc:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/42skq
> >
> > If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> > spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> > and track bar. Replace as required:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> > http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
> >
> > Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> > with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
> >
> > Steve
> > http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> >
than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
of it's mount.
A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
before starting the job.
I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul wrote:
>
> I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
> ones.
> A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
> SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
>
> A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
>
> Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
>
> I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
> bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
> lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
> that.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
> that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
> am going to break something while doing this job.
>
> Steve, thanks for the info and links.
>
> Paul
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> > how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> > joints, brakes, etc:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/42skq
> >
> > If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> > spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> > and track bar. Replace as required:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> > http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
> >
> > Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> > with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
> >
> > Steve
> > http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> >
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
To change a front axle u-joint does not require you to take off more
than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
of it's mount.
A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
before starting the job.
I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul wrote:
>
> I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
> ones.
> A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
> SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
>
> A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
>
> Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
>
> I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
> bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
> lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
> that.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
> that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
> am going to break something while doing this job.
>
> Steve, thanks for the info and links.
>
> Paul
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> > how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> > joints, brakes, etc:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/42skq
> >
> > If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> > spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> > and track bar. Replace as required:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> > http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
> >
> > Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> > with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
> >
> > Steve
> > http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> >
than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
of it's mount.
A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
before starting the job.
I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul wrote:
>
> I was looking around for new u-joints, autozone had three diferent
> ones.
> A Brute Force "HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH
> SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" 12.99
>
> A PDQ "GREASEABLE THRU BEARING" 15.99
>
> Another PDQ "STANDARD U-JOINT" 7.99
>
> I was thinking about the Brute Force. Do I really need a greasable
> bearing? The factory u-joint that is on there was not greasable and
> lasted 160,000 miles plus I don't do water crossings or anything like
> that.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new castle nuts and other hardware
> that is rusted away on the suspension/steering/drivetrain? I know I
> am going to break something while doing this job.
>
> Steve, thanks for the info and links.
>
> Paul
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > Sounds like it's u-joint time. Here's an oft-posted link that shows you
> > how to blow apart the Dana 30 to get at the axle u-joints, seals, ball
> > joints, brakes, etc:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/42skq
> >
> > If your rusty track bar looks otherwise solid, brush the scale off and
> > spray it with rust paint. Look for rotten bushings in your control arms
> > and track bar. Replace as required:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...n/trackbar.htm
> > http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Jeep.htm
> >
> > Hardest part will be removing seized and rusted fasteners. Be prepared
> > with replacements and proper tools to remove broken bolts.
> >
> > Steve
> > http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> >
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
I just wanted to give you guys an update. Today I took off the axle
and hub assembly. It was a pain in the ***. I followed Mike's
instructions and sacrificed one of the bearing carrier bolts. It took
about three hours of pounding on the bolt. But it is off. The
u-joint is indeed seized up in one direction of articulation.
Tomorrow I will put the new u-joint in and try to get this bad boy
back together. I would like to thank everyone for diagnosing the
problem and giving me the directions to fix it. I am sure I will have
plenty more questions.
Paul
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<41178885.AA299DC@sympatico.ca>...
> To change a front axle u-joint does not require you to take off more
> than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
>
> You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
> the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
> changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
>
> There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
> remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
> back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
> 'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
> to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
> of it's mount.
>
> A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
> before starting the job.
>
> I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
> that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
and hub assembly. It was a pain in the ***. I followed Mike's
instructions and sacrificed one of the bearing carrier bolts. It took
about three hours of pounding on the bolt. But it is off. The
u-joint is indeed seized up in one direction of articulation.
Tomorrow I will put the new u-joint in and try to get this bad boy
back together. I would like to thank everyone for diagnosing the
problem and giving me the directions to fix it. I am sure I will have
plenty more questions.
Paul
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<41178885.AA299DC@sympatico.ca>...
> To change a front axle u-joint does not require you to take off more
> than the brake caliper and the wheel hub.
>
> You do not even have to unbolt the big 36mm axle nut in the middle of
> the hub, the whole axle slides out with the hub and the u-joint can be
> changed with the axle still in the hub easily.
>
> There are just 3 bolts holding the hub on from the back. Once you
> remove them, you can turn the wheel hard to one side and put one bolt
> back in (I have a spare bolt for this purpose) and beat on it with a
> 'BIG' hammer. You then can cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt
> to the other side and beat on it some more. This will pop the hub out
> of it's mount.
>
> A really good soaking with penetrating oil is recommended for a few days
> before starting the job.
>
> I off road and only get a year or so out of the sealed u-joints, but at
> that age the sealed one will likely do fine for you.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>