Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
You are only showing:
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
for photos.
I don't know what photo 1, 5 or 6 looks like.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Interesting, Mike.
>
> I do not see #3 as being "wet" and #4 being "dry". They look pretty close
> to me. In fact. #3 through #6 all look pretty close.
>
> Now, #1 does look wetter than numbers 3 through 6. Is it possible you mean
> this one?
>
> I did run a can of BG 44K though the engine before I pulled the head so
> perhaps this made the effect on the other cylinders.
>
> I did not have a big blue cloud following me. The only time I noticed it
> clearly was at the smog station.
>
> No, I didn't change the injector which I can see now is not that hard to do
> (have to pull the rail) but will keep that in mind for when I get everything
> back together.
>
> This is what I'm going to do.
>
> 1. Take the head to a machine shop today to see if he can find anything
> wrong with or around #2.
> 2. If he can't find anything wrong with it I'm going to pull the piston from
> that cylinder and inspect/change the ring(s).
> 3. I'm going to put the 4.0L head on instead of the 4.2L.
> 4. Change the injector to another cylinder far removed from #2 (maybe #4 or
> #5).
>
> If everything goes well I should be done by this weekend so we'll see what
> happens then.
>
> Some questions I have.
> 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to clean
> it up, etc?
>
> 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for a
> reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> Should I get the reamer anyway?
>
> 3. Regarding the push rods and the new head. What should I do in this
> situation since the head is totally different and therefore cannot match up
> "worn" parts.
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> Bill
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403CBF90.31585534@sympatico.ca...
> > Looking at the stain on head 1.
> >
> > The way it is running between 2 ad 3 is a gas oil mix stain, not oil.
> > Oil doesn't wick out in that kind of shape.
> >
> > Cylinder 3 shows a wet piston.
> >
> > Cylinder 4 shows the same piston seemingly dried out. Oil doesn't dry
> > up.
> >
> > How does it look today?
> >
> > If you had that much oil in a cylinder, you 'must' have had one massive
> > blue cloud of smoke following you.
> >
> > I bet you still didn't swap injectors yet eh?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > I'd be interested in that response and would like to learn how you could
> > > tell that it was a gas wash if it is.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:403C3F0C.BFDA46@sympatico.ca...
> > > > I will take a real close close up look tomorrow when I down load and
> > > > magnify, but that looks like gas wash to me.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I need advice on which way to go on this.
> > > > >
> > > > > I pulled the head to take a look inside. Please offer any
> diagnositc
> > > > > direction on determining where the oil is coming from. I have a
> fresh
> > > 4.0L
> > > > > head I can put on here but don't want to do it if the block is
> screwed
> > > up.
> > > > > Should I give the head to a machine shop to see if he can find
> anything?
> > > > > I'm going to pull the valves on #2 and see what those look like but
> I
> > > wanted
> > > > > to post these to see what you guys think..
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/engine/head1.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
for photos.
I don't know what photo 1, 5 or 6 looks like.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Interesting, Mike.
>
> I do not see #3 as being "wet" and #4 being "dry". They look pretty close
> to me. In fact. #3 through #6 all look pretty close.
>
> Now, #1 does look wetter than numbers 3 through 6. Is it possible you mean
> this one?
>
> I did run a can of BG 44K though the engine before I pulled the head so
> perhaps this made the effect on the other cylinders.
>
> I did not have a big blue cloud following me. The only time I noticed it
> clearly was at the smog station.
>
> No, I didn't change the injector which I can see now is not that hard to do
> (have to pull the rail) but will keep that in mind for when I get everything
> back together.
>
> This is what I'm going to do.
>
> 1. Take the head to a machine shop today to see if he can find anything
> wrong with or around #2.
> 2. If he can't find anything wrong with it I'm going to pull the piston from
> that cylinder and inspect/change the ring(s).
> 3. I'm going to put the 4.0L head on instead of the 4.2L.
> 4. Change the injector to another cylinder far removed from #2 (maybe #4 or
> #5).
>
> If everything goes well I should be done by this weekend so we'll see what
> happens then.
>
> Some questions I have.
> 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to clean
> it up, etc?
>
> 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for a
> reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> Should I get the reamer anyway?
>
> 3. Regarding the push rods and the new head. What should I do in this
> situation since the head is totally different and therefore cannot match up
> "worn" parts.
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> Bill
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403CBF90.31585534@sympatico.ca...
> > Looking at the stain on head 1.
> >
> > The way it is running between 2 ad 3 is a gas oil mix stain, not oil.
> > Oil doesn't wick out in that kind of shape.
> >
> > Cylinder 3 shows a wet piston.
> >
> > Cylinder 4 shows the same piston seemingly dried out. Oil doesn't dry
> > up.
> >
> > How does it look today?
> >
> > If you had that much oil in a cylinder, you 'must' have had one massive
> > blue cloud of smoke following you.
> >
> > I bet you still didn't swap injectors yet eh?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > I'd be interested in that response and would like to learn how you could
> > > tell that it was a gas wash if it is.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:403C3F0C.BFDA46@sympatico.ca...
> > > > I will take a real close close up look tomorrow when I down load and
> > > > magnify, but that looks like gas wash to me.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I need advice on which way to go on this.
> > > > >
> > > > > I pulled the head to take a look inside. Please offer any
> diagnositc
> > > > > direction on determining where the oil is coming from. I have a
> fresh
> > > 4.0L
> > > > > head I can put on here but don't want to do it if the block is
> screwed
> > > up.
> > > > > Should I give the head to a machine shop to see if he can find
> anything?
> > > > > I'm going to pull the valves on #2 and see what those look like but
> I
> > > wanted
> > > > > to post these to see what you guys think..
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/engine/head1.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
I took a look at the injectors last night and couldn't see a difference
between any of them. I'll get a better look in the daylight today if I
don't get rained out.
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403CD939.5B7EFD53@sympatico.ca...
> Oh, now that it is apart, can you get a visual on the nose of the
> injector from #2 and one from another port to compare?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I'd be interested in that response and would like to learn how you could
> > tell that it was a gas wash if it is.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:403C3F0C.BFDA46@sympatico.ca...
> > > I will take a real close close up look tomorrow when I down load and
> > > magnify, but that looks like gas wash to me.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on which way to go on this.
> > > >
> > > > I pulled the head to take a look inside. Please offer any
diagnositc
> > > > direction on determining where the oil is coming from. I have a
fresh
> > 4.0L
> > > > head I can put on here but don't want to do it if the block is
screwed
> > up.
> > > > Should I give the head to a machine shop to see if he can find
anything?
> > > > I'm going to pull the valves on #2 and see what those look like but
I
> > wanted
> > > > to post these to see what you guys think..
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/engine/head1.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
between any of them. I'll get a better look in the daylight today if I
don't get rained out.
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403CD939.5B7EFD53@sympatico.ca...
> Oh, now that it is apart, can you get a visual on the nose of the
> injector from #2 and one from another port to compare?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I'd be interested in that response and would like to learn how you could
> > tell that it was a gas wash if it is.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:403C3F0C.BFDA46@sympatico.ca...
> > > I will take a real close close up look tomorrow when I down load and
> > > magnify, but that looks like gas wash to me.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on which way to go on this.
> > > >
> > > > I pulled the head to take a look inside. Please offer any
diagnositc
> > > > direction on determining where the oil is coming from. I have a
fresh
> > 4.0L
> > > > head I can put on here but don't want to do it if the block is
screwed
> > up.
> > > > Should I give the head to a machine shop to see if he can find
anything?
> > > > I'm going to pull the valves on #2 and see what those look like but
I
> > wanted
> > > > to post these to see what you guys think..
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/engine/head1.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
I took a look at the injectors last night and couldn't see a difference
between any of them. I'll get a better look in the daylight today if I
don't get rained out.
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403CD939.5B7EFD53@sympatico.ca...
> Oh, now that it is apart, can you get a visual on the nose of the
> injector from #2 and one from another port to compare?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I'd be interested in that response and would like to learn how you could
> > tell that it was a gas wash if it is.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:403C3F0C.BFDA46@sympatico.ca...
> > > I will take a real close close up look tomorrow when I down load and
> > > magnify, but that looks like gas wash to me.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on which way to go on this.
> > > >
> > > > I pulled the head to take a look inside. Please offer any
diagnositc
> > > > direction on determining where the oil is coming from. I have a
fresh
> > 4.0L
> > > > head I can put on here but don't want to do it if the block is
screwed
> > up.
> > > > Should I give the head to a machine shop to see if he can find
anything?
> > > > I'm going to pull the valves on #2 and see what those look like but
I
> > wanted
> > > > to post these to see what you guys think..
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/engine/head1.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
between any of them. I'll get a better look in the daylight today if I
don't get rained out.
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403CD939.5B7EFD53@sympatico.ca...
> Oh, now that it is apart, can you get a visual on the nose of the
> injector from #2 and one from another port to compare?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I'd be interested in that response and would like to learn how you could
> > tell that it was a gas wash if it is.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:403C3F0C.BFDA46@sympatico.ca...
> > > I will take a real close close up look tomorrow when I down load and
> > > magnify, but that looks like gas wash to me.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on which way to go on this.
> > > >
> > > > I pulled the head to take a look inside. Please offer any
diagnositc
> > > > direction on determining where the oil is coming from. I have a
fresh
> > 4.0L
> > > > head I can put on here but don't want to do it if the block is
screwed
> > up.
> > > > Should I give the head to a machine shop to see if he can find
anything?
> > > > I'm going to pull the valves on #2 and see what those look like but
I
> > wanted
> > > > to post these to see what you guys think..
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/engine/head1.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
I took a look at the injectors last night and couldn't see a difference
between any of them. I'll get a better look in the daylight today if I
don't get rained out.
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403CD939.5B7EFD53@sympatico.ca...
> Oh, now that it is apart, can you get a visual on the nose of the
> injector from #2 and one from another port to compare?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I'd be interested in that response and would like to learn how you could
> > tell that it was a gas wash if it is.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:403C3F0C.BFDA46@sympatico.ca...
> > > I will take a real close close up look tomorrow when I down load and
> > > magnify, but that looks like gas wash to me.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on which way to go on this.
> > > >
> > > > I pulled the head to take a look inside. Please offer any
diagnositc
> > > > direction on determining where the oil is coming from. I have a
fresh
> > 4.0L
> > > > head I can put on here but don't want to do it if the block is
screwed
> > up.
> > > > Should I give the head to a machine shop to see if he can find
anything?
> > > > I'm going to pull the valves on #2 and see what those look like but
I
> > wanted
> > > > to post these to see what you guys think..
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/engine/head1.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
between any of them. I'll get a better look in the daylight today if I
don't get rained out.
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403CD939.5B7EFD53@sympatico.ca...
> Oh, now that it is apart, can you get a visual on the nose of the
> injector from #2 and one from another port to compare?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I'd be interested in that response and would like to learn how you could
> > tell that it was a gas wash if it is.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:403C3F0C.BFDA46@sympatico.ca...
> > > I will take a real close close up look tomorrow when I down load and
> > > magnify, but that looks like gas wash to me.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I need advice on which way to go on this.
> > > >
> > > > I pulled the head to take a look inside. Please offer any
diagnositc
> > > > direction on determining where the oil is coming from. I have a
fresh
> > 4.0L
> > > > head I can put on here but don't want to do it if the block is
screwed
> > up.
> > > > Should I give the head to a machine shop to see if he can find
anything?
> > > > I'm going to pull the valves on #2 and see what those look like but
I
> > wanted
> > > > to post these to see what you guys think..
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/engine/head1.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder2.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder3.jpg
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../cylinder4.jpg
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> Some questions I have.
> 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
clean
> it up, etc?
Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get into
everything.
> 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for a
> reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> Should I get the reamer anyway?
A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape off
easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to scratch
up the bore.
> 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> replaced.
That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings off,(make
sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it with
new parts.
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> Some questions I have.
> 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
clean
> it up, etc?
Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get into
everything.
> 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for a
> reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> Should I get the reamer anyway?
A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape off
easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to scratch
up the bore.
> 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> replaced.
That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings off,(make
sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it with
new parts.
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> Some questions I have.
> 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
clean
> it up, etc?
Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get into
everything.
> 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for a
> reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> Should I get the reamer anyway?
A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape off
easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to scratch
up the bore.
> 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> replaced.
That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings off,(make
sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it with
new parts.
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
Thanks for the reply Paul,
What is the center main?
Thanks,
Bill
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1jb1n$1hpuu3$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > Some questions I have.
> > 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
> clean
> > it up, etc?
>
> Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get
into
> everything.
>
>
> > 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for
a
> > reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> > Should I get the reamer anyway?
>
> A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
> the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
> well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape
off
> easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to
scratch
> up the bore.
>
> > 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> > replaced.
>
> That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
> have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings
off,(make
> sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
> center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it
with
> new parts.
>
>
What is the center main?
Thanks,
Bill
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1jb1n$1hpuu3$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > Some questions I have.
> > 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
> clean
> > it up, etc?
>
> Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get
into
> everything.
>
>
> > 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for
a
> > reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> > Should I get the reamer anyway?
>
> A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
> the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
> well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape
off
> easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to
scratch
> up the bore.
>
> > 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> > replaced.
>
> That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
> have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings
off,(make
> sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
> center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it
with
> new parts.
>
>
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
Thanks for the reply Paul,
What is the center main?
Thanks,
Bill
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1jb1n$1hpuu3$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > Some questions I have.
> > 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
> clean
> > it up, etc?
>
> Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get
into
> everything.
>
>
> > 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for
a
> > reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> > Should I get the reamer anyway?
>
> A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
> the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
> well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape
off
> easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to
scratch
> up the bore.
>
> > 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> > replaced.
>
> That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
> have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings
off,(make
> sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
> center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it
with
> new parts.
>
>
What is the center main?
Thanks,
Bill
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1jb1n$1hpuu3$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > Some questions I have.
> > 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
> clean
> > it up, etc?
>
> Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get
into
> everything.
>
>
> > 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for
a
> > reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> > Should I get the reamer anyway?
>
> A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
> the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
> well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape
off
> easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to
scratch
> up the bore.
>
> > 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> > replaced.
>
> That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
> have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings
off,(make
> sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
> center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it
with
> new parts.
>
>
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok guys, here we go. I pulled the head - take a look what I found
Thanks for the reply Paul,
What is the center main?
Thanks,
Bill
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1jb1n$1hpuu3$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > Some questions I have.
> > 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
> clean
> > it up, etc?
>
> Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get
into
> everything.
>
>
> > 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for
a
> > reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> > Should I get the reamer anyway?
>
> A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
> the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
> well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape
off
> easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to
scratch
> up the bore.
>
> > 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> > replaced.
>
> That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
> have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings
off,(make
> sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
> center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it
with
> new parts.
>
>
What is the center main?
Thanks,
Bill
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1jb1n$1hpuu3$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> > Some questions I have.
> > 1. What's the best way to prepare the block for the new head? How to
> clean
> > it up, etc?
>
> Scrape it clean. i dont favor the scotch brite method as abrasives get
into
> everything.
>
>
> > 2. I didn't feel any lip at the top of the cylinder that would call for
a
> > reamer but there is carbon crusted there. How should I take that off?
> > Should I get the reamer anyway?
>
> A ridge reamer is for removing metal off of a worn cyl wall so you can get
> the pistons out without the rings jamming. If it's that bad, you might as
> well go all the way and rebuild it. If it's only carbon, it will scrape
off
> easily with the edge of a knife, razor blade, etc. Be careful not to
scratch
> up the bore.
>
> > 4. Can I or Should I replace only one ring (oil) or should they all be
> > replaced.
>
> That would be silly, considering how much work it is, and that all rings
> have suffered the same heat. Since you will have the rod bearings
off,(make
> sure they go back right) inspect them for any bad things, and pull out the
> center main too. Better to get bad news now than after re-assembling it
with
> new parts.
>
>