The message you're getting here may be oversimplifying things. You can't
just unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and pull the block away. At
least you can't do that and expect to re-use the clutch friction plate.
You need to lift both the engine and the bellhousing together high enough to
clear the mounts and give you a clear, straight forward pull. You solidly
block the trans/bellhousing at this height. Now undo your bellhousing bolts
and very carefully pull the engine straight forward until the trans input
shaft is clear of the clutch.
If you try to pull the engine away without properly supporting the trans
or don't pull it straight forward you will hang the trans by the friction
plate and warp the friction disc. While the clutch will still work it won't
disengage properly,trans will grind going into reverse and clutch will
chatter when engaging it.
Putting that back in is going to be the biggest challenge of this job.
I've held a mechanics license for almost 30 years and done hundreds of
clutches, and I still curse putting them together. Every once and a while
one will slip in like nothing, but most are a fight.
You will assemble the clutch with the help of a dummy shaft to get
things aligned, but unless you have a trans jack where you can precisely
control the angle of entry, getting that input shaft in all the way to the
pilot bushing is a chore. Someone in the thread mentioned stepping on the
clutch to allow it to float to align itself. Measure of last resort as it's
very risky. Sometimes it will work as this person described, sometimes the
disc will fall totally out of alignment and you end up taking the clutch
apart and re-aligning with your dummy shaft.
FWIW.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c288en$1qqrlo$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Nope, manual - T5.
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> > Do you have an automatic transmission?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids
(other
> > > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
>
>

 

The message you're getting here may be oversimplifying things. You can't
just unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and pull the block away. At
least you can't do that and expect to re-use the clutch friction plate.
You need to lift both the engine and the bellhousing together high enough to
clear the mounts and give you a clear, straight forward pull. You solidly
block the trans/bellhousing at this height. Now undo your bellhousing bolts
and very carefully pull the engine straight forward until the trans input
shaft is clear of the clutch.
If you try to pull the engine away without properly supporting the trans
or don't pull it straight forward you will hang the trans by the friction
plate and warp the friction disc. While the clutch will still work it won't
disengage properly,trans will grind going into reverse and clutch will
chatter when engaging it.
Putting that back in is going to be the biggest challenge of this job.
I've held a mechanics license for almost 30 years and done hundreds of
clutches, and I still curse putting them together. Every once and a while
one will slip in like nothing, but most are a fight.
You will assemble the clutch with the help of a dummy shaft to get
things aligned, but unless you have a trans jack where you can precisely
control the angle of entry, getting that input shaft in all the way to the
pilot bushing is a chore. Someone in the thread mentioned stepping on the
clutch to allow it to float to align itself. Measure of last resort as it's
very risky. Sometimes it will work as this person described, sometimes the
disc will fall totally out of alignment and you end up taking the clutch
apart and re-aligning with your dummy shaft.
FWIW.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c288en$1qqrlo$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Nope, manual - T5.
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> > Do you have an automatic transmission?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids
(other
> > > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
>
>

 

My idea, Bill, was that the bellhousing/block bolts will be crammed up
against the firewall, and be a bitch to get to. The trans is held to the
bellhousing be 4 bolts that are reasonably accessible, but this would
require pulling the bellhousing out along with the motor.

Is that the right plan?



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40479F32.4F2035D1@***.net...
> Just the bellhousing to block bolts. The pressure plate stays with
> the flywheel and engine.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
know
> > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
about
> > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

 

My idea, Bill, was that the bellhousing/block bolts will be crammed up
against the firewall, and be a bitch to get to. The trans is held to the
bellhousing be 4 bolts that are reasonably accessible, but this would
require pulling the bellhousing out along with the motor.

Is that the right plan?



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40479F32.4F2035D1@***.net...
> Just the bellhousing to block bolts. The pressure plate stays with
> the flywheel and engine.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
know
> > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
about
> > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

 

My idea, Bill, was that the bellhousing/block bolts will be crammed up
against the firewall, and be a bitch to get to. The trans is held to the
bellhousing be 4 bolts that are reasonably accessible, but this would
require pulling the bellhousing out along with the motor.

Is that the right plan?



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40479F32.4F2035D1@***.net...
> Just the bellhousing to block bolts. The pressure plate stays with
> the flywheel and engine.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
know
> > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
about
> > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

 

Hi Jeff,
Which ever you feel comfortable with, I feel it's easier when the
throw bearing is sitting the transmission, on assembly, there's one bolt
just above the starter that I just go ahead and cut an access hole
through the firewall.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

CRWLR wrote:
>
> My idea, Bill, was that the bellhousing/block bolts will be crammed up
> against the firewall, and be a bitch to get to. The trans is held to the
> bellhousing be 4 bolts that are reasonably accessible, but this would
> require pulling the bellhousing out along with the motor.
>
> Is that the right plan?

 

Hi Jeff,
Which ever you feel comfortable with, I feel it's easier when the
throw bearing is sitting the transmission, on assembly, there's one bolt
just above the starter that I just go ahead and cut an access hole
through the firewall.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

CRWLR wrote:
>
> My idea, Bill, was that the bellhousing/block bolts will be crammed up
> against the firewall, and be a bitch to get to. The trans is held to the
> bellhousing be 4 bolts that are reasonably accessible, but this would
> require pulling the bellhousing out along with the motor.
>
> Is that the right plan?

 

Hi Jeff,
Which ever you feel comfortable with, I feel it's easier when the
throw bearing is sitting the transmission, on assembly, there's one bolt
just above the starter that I just go ahead and cut an access hole
through the firewall.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

CRWLR wrote:
>
> My idea, Bill, was that the bellhousing/block bolts will be crammed up
> against the firewall, and be a bitch to get to. The trans is held to the
> bellhousing be 4 bolts that are reasonably accessible, but this would
> require pulling the bellhousing out along with the motor.
>
> Is that the right plan?

 

bill-if you're going to pull the engine by unbolting the bell housing from
the engine, be sure to take ALL the bolts around the perimeter out. when i
pulled mine, i overlooked 2 small bolts at the bottom of the housing-it took
me another hour or so to pull it. since you have the radiator out, you may
want to remove the whole grill assembly. it's pretty damn easy and it will
make the job soo much easier. another thing to remove is the crossmember
that crosses under the pan. oh wait, if you've taken the pan out you
already have that out. if you can, drop the tranny and then remove the
engine. if u do that, don't forget to support the back of the engine. it
will drop.
if you only take the engine out, support the from of the tranny.
try and remove as much stuff off the engine-like alternator, ac compressor,
etc. good luck!

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c27vie$1psfv1$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Ok guys, don't laugh. This is running through my head as a possible plan.
>
> If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the engine
> without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to get the
> block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away.
>
> I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and pull it
out
> of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something).
>
> I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and would roll
> freely over speed bumps etc.
>
> Anyone can recommend a cart that might work?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Billo
>
>

 

bill-if you're going to pull the engine by unbolting the bell housing from
the engine, be sure to take ALL the bolts around the perimeter out. when i
pulled mine, i overlooked 2 small bolts at the bottom of the housing-it took
me another hour or so to pull it. since you have the radiator out, you may
want to remove the whole grill assembly. it's pretty damn easy and it will
make the job soo much easier. another thing to remove is the crossmember
that crosses under the pan. oh wait, if you've taken the pan out you
already have that out. if you can, drop the tranny and then remove the
engine. if u do that, don't forget to support the back of the engine. it
will drop.
if you only take the engine out, support the from of the tranny.
try and remove as much stuff off the engine-like alternator, ac compressor,
etc. good luck!

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c27vie$1psfv1$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Ok guys, don't laugh. This is running through my head as a possible plan.
>
> If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the engine
> without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to get the
> block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away.
>
> I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and pull it
out
> of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something).
>
> I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and would roll
> freely over speed bumps etc.
>
> Anyone can recommend a cart that might work?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Billo
>
>