Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
Nope, manual - T5.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> Do you have an automatic transmission?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> Do you have an automatic transmission?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
Nope, manual - T5.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> Do you have an automatic transmission?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> Do you have an automatic transmission?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
Nope, manual - T5.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> Do you have an automatic transmission?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> Do you have an automatic transmission?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
Just rent a cherry picker.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Nope, manual - T5.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Nope, manual - T5.
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
Just rent a cherry picker.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Nope, manual - T5.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Nope, manual - T5.
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
Just rent a cherry picker.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Nope, manual - T5.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Nope, manual - T5.
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
If you unbolt the trans from the bellhousing, the only fluids involved will
be the motor oil and the radiator. Well, the power steering might tip over
if you are not careful. You can simply unbolt the PS pump and hang it by a
coat hanger -- no need to drain it.
You will have some drainage of the fuel lines after you disconnect them.
Frankly, you are the guy with a handful of crank bearings, you should be
telling me how to get the motor out. ;-)
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c287f3$1qu9cl$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:104f7bcag2gg498@corp.supernews.com...
> > Well, there are a couple of options here.
> >
> > While the motor is out, you might consider checking out the trans and
> tcase.
> > If so, then the skip plate comes off and the whole mess comes out
through
> > the engine bay. Otherwise, you have to unbolt the motor from the
> > bellhousing, I expect to find 8 ~ 10 bolts here, and leave the trans and
> > tcase in place and just lift the motor out.
> >
> > The motor will be held in by the bellhousing bolts and the two motor
> mounts.
> > If you elect to pull the trans and tcase at the same time, then there is
> one
> > trans mount and 6 bolts on the skid plate. You will still have the
> > bellhousing bolts, but they will be much easier to get to on the floor
> than
> > against the firewall.
> >
> > You know, you can unbolt the trans at the bell housing (4 bolts) and
lift
> > the bell housing and clutch out with the motor, then take the
bellhousing
> > off. That makes the most sense. It can be a pain in the *** to get the
> input
> > shaft of the trans to fit through the clutch while you are dropping the
> > motor back in, but it is possible to do it. It is the inverse of putting
> the
> > trans back on while the engine is already in place. I could not get my
> trans
> > on, and I struggled with it for an hour or so, then my kid depressed the
> > clutch and the trans jumped into place so fast I couldn't get my fingers
> out
> > of the way fast enough. I just needed that last half-inch (less,
actually)
> > and depressing the clutch pedal did the trick.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:c285io$1o1cap$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
> know
> > > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
> > about
> > > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:104f3nd5c68iddd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > What you really need is a buddy with a pick up truck.
> > > >
> > > > Use the truck to bring the cherry picker over to the apartment
> complex,
> > > pull
> > > > the motor and drop it into the truck, and drag the picker away. It
> > > shouldn't
> > > > take more than about an hour to get this all done. You can pull all
of
> > the
> > > > electrics and many of the bolts before the picker rolls in, and this
> > will
> > > > trim the exposure time with the manager.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:c27vie$1psfv1$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Ok guys, don't laugh. This is running through my head as a
possible
> > > plan.
> > > > >
> > > > > If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the
> > engine
> > > > > without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to
get
> > the
> > > > > block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away.
> > > > >
> > > > > I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and
> pull
> > it
> > > > out
> > > > > of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something).
> > > > >
> > > > > I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and
would
> > > roll
> > > > > freely over speed bumps etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone can recommend a cart that might work?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Billo
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
be the motor oil and the radiator. Well, the power steering might tip over
if you are not careful. You can simply unbolt the PS pump and hang it by a
coat hanger -- no need to drain it.
You will have some drainage of the fuel lines after you disconnect them.
Frankly, you are the guy with a handful of crank bearings, you should be
telling me how to get the motor out. ;-)
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c287f3$1qu9cl$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:104f7bcag2gg498@corp.supernews.com...
> > Well, there are a couple of options here.
> >
> > While the motor is out, you might consider checking out the trans and
> tcase.
> > If so, then the skip plate comes off and the whole mess comes out
through
> > the engine bay. Otherwise, you have to unbolt the motor from the
> > bellhousing, I expect to find 8 ~ 10 bolts here, and leave the trans and
> > tcase in place and just lift the motor out.
> >
> > The motor will be held in by the bellhousing bolts and the two motor
> mounts.
> > If you elect to pull the trans and tcase at the same time, then there is
> one
> > trans mount and 6 bolts on the skid plate. You will still have the
> > bellhousing bolts, but they will be much easier to get to on the floor
> than
> > against the firewall.
> >
> > You know, you can unbolt the trans at the bell housing (4 bolts) and
lift
> > the bell housing and clutch out with the motor, then take the
bellhousing
> > off. That makes the most sense. It can be a pain in the *** to get the
> input
> > shaft of the trans to fit through the clutch while you are dropping the
> > motor back in, but it is possible to do it. It is the inverse of putting
> the
> > trans back on while the engine is already in place. I could not get my
> trans
> > on, and I struggled with it for an hour or so, then my kid depressed the
> > clutch and the trans jumped into place so fast I couldn't get my fingers
> out
> > of the way fast enough. I just needed that last half-inch (less,
actually)
> > and depressing the clutch pedal did the trick.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:c285io$1o1cap$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
> know
> > > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
> > about
> > > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:104f3nd5c68iddd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > What you really need is a buddy with a pick up truck.
> > > >
> > > > Use the truck to bring the cherry picker over to the apartment
> complex,
> > > pull
> > > > the motor and drop it into the truck, and drag the picker away. It
> > > shouldn't
> > > > take more than about an hour to get this all done. You can pull all
of
> > the
> > > > electrics and many of the bolts before the picker rolls in, and this
> > will
> > > > trim the exposure time with the manager.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:c27vie$1psfv1$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Ok guys, don't laugh. This is running through my head as a
possible
> > > plan.
> > > > >
> > > > > If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the
> > engine
> > > > > without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to
get
> > the
> > > > > block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away.
> > > > >
> > > > > I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and
> pull
> > it
> > > > out
> > > > > of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something).
> > > > >
> > > > > I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and
would
> > > roll
> > > > > freely over speed bumps etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone can recommend a cart that might work?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Billo
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
If you unbolt the trans from the bellhousing, the only fluids involved will
be the motor oil and the radiator. Well, the power steering might tip over
if you are not careful. You can simply unbolt the PS pump and hang it by a
coat hanger -- no need to drain it.
You will have some drainage of the fuel lines after you disconnect them.
Frankly, you are the guy with a handful of crank bearings, you should be
telling me how to get the motor out. ;-)
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c287f3$1qu9cl$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:104f7bcag2gg498@corp.supernews.com...
> > Well, there are a couple of options here.
> >
> > While the motor is out, you might consider checking out the trans and
> tcase.
> > If so, then the skip plate comes off and the whole mess comes out
through
> > the engine bay. Otherwise, you have to unbolt the motor from the
> > bellhousing, I expect to find 8 ~ 10 bolts here, and leave the trans and
> > tcase in place and just lift the motor out.
> >
> > The motor will be held in by the bellhousing bolts and the two motor
> mounts.
> > If you elect to pull the trans and tcase at the same time, then there is
> one
> > trans mount and 6 bolts on the skid plate. You will still have the
> > bellhousing bolts, but they will be much easier to get to on the floor
> than
> > against the firewall.
> >
> > You know, you can unbolt the trans at the bell housing (4 bolts) and
lift
> > the bell housing and clutch out with the motor, then take the
bellhousing
> > off. That makes the most sense. It can be a pain in the *** to get the
> input
> > shaft of the trans to fit through the clutch while you are dropping the
> > motor back in, but it is possible to do it. It is the inverse of putting
> the
> > trans back on while the engine is already in place. I could not get my
> trans
> > on, and I struggled with it for an hour or so, then my kid depressed the
> > clutch and the trans jumped into place so fast I couldn't get my fingers
> out
> > of the way fast enough. I just needed that last half-inch (less,
actually)
> > and depressing the clutch pedal did the trick.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:c285io$1o1cap$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
> know
> > > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
> > about
> > > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:104f3nd5c68iddd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > What you really need is a buddy with a pick up truck.
> > > >
> > > > Use the truck to bring the cherry picker over to the apartment
> complex,
> > > pull
> > > > the motor and drop it into the truck, and drag the picker away. It
> > > shouldn't
> > > > take more than about an hour to get this all done. You can pull all
of
> > the
> > > > electrics and many of the bolts before the picker rolls in, and this
> > will
> > > > trim the exposure time with the manager.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:c27vie$1psfv1$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Ok guys, don't laugh. This is running through my head as a
possible
> > > plan.
> > > > >
> > > > > If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the
> > engine
> > > > > without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to
get
> > the
> > > > > block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away.
> > > > >
> > > > > I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and
> pull
> > it
> > > > out
> > > > > of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something).
> > > > >
> > > > > I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and
would
> > > roll
> > > > > freely over speed bumps etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone can recommend a cart that might work?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Billo
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
be the motor oil and the radiator. Well, the power steering might tip over
if you are not careful. You can simply unbolt the PS pump and hang it by a
coat hanger -- no need to drain it.
You will have some drainage of the fuel lines after you disconnect them.
Frankly, you are the guy with a handful of crank bearings, you should be
telling me how to get the motor out. ;-)
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c287f3$1qu9cl$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:104f7bcag2gg498@corp.supernews.com...
> > Well, there are a couple of options here.
> >
> > While the motor is out, you might consider checking out the trans and
> tcase.
> > If so, then the skip plate comes off and the whole mess comes out
through
> > the engine bay. Otherwise, you have to unbolt the motor from the
> > bellhousing, I expect to find 8 ~ 10 bolts here, and leave the trans and
> > tcase in place and just lift the motor out.
> >
> > The motor will be held in by the bellhousing bolts and the two motor
> mounts.
> > If you elect to pull the trans and tcase at the same time, then there is
> one
> > trans mount and 6 bolts on the skid plate. You will still have the
> > bellhousing bolts, but they will be much easier to get to on the floor
> than
> > against the firewall.
> >
> > You know, you can unbolt the trans at the bell housing (4 bolts) and
lift
> > the bell housing and clutch out with the motor, then take the
bellhousing
> > off. That makes the most sense. It can be a pain in the *** to get the
> input
> > shaft of the trans to fit through the clutch while you are dropping the
> > motor back in, but it is possible to do it. It is the inverse of putting
> the
> > trans back on while the engine is already in place. I could not get my
> trans
> > on, and I struggled with it for an hour or so, then my kid depressed the
> > clutch and the trans jumped into place so fast I couldn't get my fingers
> out
> > of the way fast enough. I just needed that last half-inch (less,
actually)
> > and depressing the clutch pedal did the trick.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:c285io$1o1cap$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
> know
> > > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
> > about
> > > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:104f3nd5c68iddd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > What you really need is a buddy with a pick up truck.
> > > >
> > > > Use the truck to bring the cherry picker over to the apartment
> complex,
> > > pull
> > > > the motor and drop it into the truck, and drag the picker away. It
> > > shouldn't
> > > > take more than about an hour to get this all done. You can pull all
of
> > the
> > > > electrics and many of the bolts before the picker rolls in, and this
> > will
> > > > trim the exposure time with the manager.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:c27vie$1psfv1$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Ok guys, don't laugh. This is running through my head as a
possible
> > > plan.
> > > > >
> > > > > If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the
> > engine
> > > > > without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to
get
> > the
> > > > > block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away.
> > > > >
> > > > > I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and
> pull
> > it
> > > > out
> > > > > of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something).
> > > > >
> > > > > I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and
would
> > > roll
> > > > > freely over speed bumps etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone can recommend a cart that might work?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Billo
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
If you unbolt the trans from the bellhousing, the only fluids involved will
be the motor oil and the radiator. Well, the power steering might tip over
if you are not careful. You can simply unbolt the PS pump and hang it by a
coat hanger -- no need to drain it.
You will have some drainage of the fuel lines after you disconnect them.
Frankly, you are the guy with a handful of crank bearings, you should be
telling me how to get the motor out. ;-)
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c287f3$1qu9cl$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:104f7bcag2gg498@corp.supernews.com...
> > Well, there are a couple of options here.
> >
> > While the motor is out, you might consider checking out the trans and
> tcase.
> > If so, then the skip plate comes off and the whole mess comes out
through
> > the engine bay. Otherwise, you have to unbolt the motor from the
> > bellhousing, I expect to find 8 ~ 10 bolts here, and leave the trans and
> > tcase in place and just lift the motor out.
> >
> > The motor will be held in by the bellhousing bolts and the two motor
> mounts.
> > If you elect to pull the trans and tcase at the same time, then there is
> one
> > trans mount and 6 bolts on the skid plate. You will still have the
> > bellhousing bolts, but they will be much easier to get to on the floor
> than
> > against the firewall.
> >
> > You know, you can unbolt the trans at the bell housing (4 bolts) and
lift
> > the bell housing and clutch out with the motor, then take the
bellhousing
> > off. That makes the most sense. It can be a pain in the *** to get the
> input
> > shaft of the trans to fit through the clutch while you are dropping the
> > motor back in, but it is possible to do it. It is the inverse of putting
> the
> > trans back on while the engine is already in place. I could not get my
> trans
> > on, and I struggled with it for an hour or so, then my kid depressed the
> > clutch and the trans jumped into place so fast I couldn't get my fingers
> out
> > of the way fast enough. I just needed that last half-inch (less,
actually)
> > and depressing the clutch pedal did the trick.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:c285io$1o1cap$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
> know
> > > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
> > about
> > > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:104f3nd5c68iddd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > What you really need is a buddy with a pick up truck.
> > > >
> > > > Use the truck to bring the cherry picker over to the apartment
> complex,
> > > pull
> > > > the motor and drop it into the truck, and drag the picker away. It
> > > shouldn't
> > > > take more than about an hour to get this all done. You can pull all
of
> > the
> > > > electrics and many of the bolts before the picker rolls in, and this
> > will
> > > > trim the exposure time with the manager.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:c27vie$1psfv1$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Ok guys, don't laugh. This is running through my head as a
possible
> > > plan.
> > > > >
> > > > > If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the
> > engine
> > > > > without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to
get
> > the
> > > > > block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away.
> > > > >
> > > > > I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and
> pull
> > it
> > > > out
> > > > > of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something).
> > > > >
> > > > > I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and
would
> > > roll
> > > > > freely over speed bumps etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone can recommend a cart that might work?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Billo
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
be the motor oil and the radiator. Well, the power steering might tip over
if you are not careful. You can simply unbolt the PS pump and hang it by a
coat hanger -- no need to drain it.
You will have some drainage of the fuel lines after you disconnect them.
Frankly, you are the guy with a handful of crank bearings, you should be
telling me how to get the motor out. ;-)
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c287f3$1qu9cl$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other
> than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:104f7bcag2gg498@corp.supernews.com...
> > Well, there are a couple of options here.
> >
> > While the motor is out, you might consider checking out the trans and
> tcase.
> > If so, then the skip plate comes off and the whole mess comes out
through
> > the engine bay. Otherwise, you have to unbolt the motor from the
> > bellhousing, I expect to find 8 ~ 10 bolts here, and leave the trans and
> > tcase in place and just lift the motor out.
> >
> > The motor will be held in by the bellhousing bolts and the two motor
> mounts.
> > If you elect to pull the trans and tcase at the same time, then there is
> one
> > trans mount and 6 bolts on the skid plate. You will still have the
> > bellhousing bolts, but they will be much easier to get to on the floor
> than
> > against the firewall.
> >
> > You know, you can unbolt the trans at the bell housing (4 bolts) and
lift
> > the bell housing and clutch out with the motor, then take the
bellhousing
> > off. That makes the most sense. It can be a pain in the *** to get the
> input
> > shaft of the trans to fit through the clutch while you are dropping the
> > motor back in, but it is possible to do it. It is the inverse of putting
> the
> > trans back on while the engine is already in place. I could not get my
> trans
> > on, and I struggled with it for an hour or so, then my kid depressed the
> > clutch and the trans jumped into place so fast I couldn't get my fingers
> out
> > of the way fast enough. I just needed that last half-inch (less,
actually)
> > and depressing the clutch pedal did the trick.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:c285io$1o1cap$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I
> know
> > > there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What
> > about
> > > bolts to the tranny or other things?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:104f3nd5c68iddd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > What you really need is a buddy with a pick up truck.
> > > >
> > > > Use the truck to bring the cherry picker over to the apartment
> complex,
> > > pull
> > > > the motor and drop it into the truck, and drag the picker away. It
> > > shouldn't
> > > > take more than about an hour to get this all done. You can pull all
of
> > the
> > > > electrics and many of the bolts before the picker rolls in, and this
> > will
> > > > trim the exposure time with the manager.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:c27vie$1psfv1$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Ok guys, don't laugh. This is running through my head as a
possible
> > > plan.
> > > > >
> > > > > If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the
> > engine
> > > > > without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to
get
> > the
> > > > > block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away.
> > > > >
> > > > > I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and
> pull
> > it
> > > > out
> > > > > of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something).
> > > > >
> > > > > I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and
would
> > > roll
> > > > > freely over speed bumps etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone can recommend a cart that might work?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Billo
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?
The message you're getting here may be oversimplifying things. You can't
just unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and pull the block away. At
least you can't do that and expect to re-use the clutch friction plate.
You need to lift both the engine and the bellhousing together high enough to
clear the mounts and give you a clear, straight forward pull. You solidly
block the trans/bellhousing at this height. Now undo your bellhousing bolts
and very carefully pull the engine straight forward until the trans input
shaft is clear of the clutch.
If you try to pull the engine away without properly supporting the trans
or don't pull it straight forward you will hang the trans by the friction
plate and warp the friction disc. While the clutch will still work it won't
disengage properly,trans will grind going into reverse and clutch will
chatter when engaging it.
Putting that back in is going to be the biggest challenge of this job.
I've held a mechanics license for almost 30 years and done hundreds of
clutches, and I still curse putting them together. Every once and a while
one will slip in like nothing, but most are a fight.
You will assemble the clutch with the help of a dummy shaft to get
things aligned, but unless you have a trans jack where you can precisely
control the angle of entry, getting that input shaft in all the way to the
pilot bushing is a chore. Someone in the thread mentioned stepping on the
clutch to allow it to float to align itself. Measure of last resort as it's
very risky. Sometimes it will work as this person described, sometimes the
disc will fall totally out of alignment and you end up taking the clutch
apart and re-aligning with your dummy shaft.
FWIW.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c288en$1qqrlo$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Nope, manual - T5.
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> > Do you have an automatic transmission?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids
(other
> > > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
>
>
just unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and pull the block away. At
least you can't do that and expect to re-use the clutch friction plate.
You need to lift both the engine and the bellhousing together high enough to
clear the mounts and give you a clear, straight forward pull. You solidly
block the trans/bellhousing at this height. Now undo your bellhousing bolts
and very carefully pull the engine straight forward until the trans input
shaft is clear of the clutch.
If you try to pull the engine away without properly supporting the trans
or don't pull it straight forward you will hang the trans by the friction
plate and warp the friction disc. While the clutch will still work it won't
disengage properly,trans will grind going into reverse and clutch will
chatter when engaging it.
Putting that back in is going to be the biggest challenge of this job.
I've held a mechanics license for almost 30 years and done hundreds of
clutches, and I still curse putting them together. Every once and a while
one will slip in like nothing, but most are a fight.
You will assemble the clutch with the help of a dummy shaft to get
things aligned, but unless you have a trans jack where you can precisely
control the angle of entry, getting that input shaft in all the way to the
pilot bushing is a chore. Someone in the thread mentioned stepping on the
clutch to allow it to float to align itself. Measure of last resort as it's
very risky. Sometimes it will work as this person described, sometimes the
disc will fall totally out of alignment and you end up taking the clutch
apart and re-aligning with your dummy shaft.
FWIW.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c288en$1qqrlo$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Nope, manual - T5.
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:4047A48A.E4B7712D@***.net...
> > Do you have an automatic transmission?
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids
(other
> > > than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
>
>