New starter continually runs
01-26-2007, 12:09 PM
#81
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
If you jump to the smaller post on the Mean Green starter now, the starter
should start up. It probably will, but this is just a sanity test to verify
that you brought home a good unit from the parts store. Before you go much
further, you should take note of the fact that the Mean Green starter lacks
a nose cone bushing, which makes it an inherently weaker design. There is a
reason that many people stick with OEM design components. Engineering is
design, testing, testing, testing and more testing. From economic and scale
considerations, there is just no way the Mean Green design has received the
same amount and quality of testing as the OEM design.
From what you have posted, the brown wire is continually energized, whether
the key is on or not. It should be easy to verify this with a test light or
voltmeter, another sanity test. This could be caused by the key switch, the
relay or a short in the wire. The relay sounds like the easiest thing to
fix. Many times we go with the easiest fix first, but you have to decide
whether you can throw away the price of a relay in case you are wrong.
Earle
<Erik.Hosler@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1169827822.303722.8860@q2g2000cwa.googlegroup s.com...
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
should start up. It probably will, but this is just a sanity test to verify
that you brought home a good unit from the parts store. Before you go much
further, you should take note of the fact that the Mean Green starter lacks
a nose cone bushing, which makes it an inherently weaker design. There is a
reason that many people stick with OEM design components. Engineering is
design, testing, testing, testing and more testing. From economic and scale
considerations, there is just no way the Mean Green design has received the
same amount and quality of testing as the OEM design.
From what you have posted, the brown wire is continually energized, whether
the key is on or not. It should be easy to verify this with a test light or
voltmeter, another sanity test. This could be caused by the key switch, the
relay or a short in the wire. The relay sounds like the easiest thing to
fix. Many times we go with the easiest fix first, but you have to decide
whether you can throw away the price of a relay in case you are wrong.
Earle
<Erik.Hosler@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1169827822.303722.8860@q2g2000cwa.googlegroup s.com...
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
01-26-2007, 12:09 PM
#82
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I see what you are saying, I still think they have given you the wrong
starter. Maybe it would fit a Chevy who's harness comes at the starter
from below?
I can tell you for sure I would have refused that starter and asked to
see others with the thought the wrong starter got tossed into the Jeep box.
I mean how good is that stupid starter anyway? I have a 5 year warranty
on my Jeep starter and when it does crap out after the warranty, a
rebuild kit is in the twenty dollar range.
Normally we just seize the brushes up from mud and dust. A clean with
WD40 fixes that and when needed a $10.00 set of brushes is added.
Brushes for my XJ's starter ran me $12.00 a couple years back, the last
ones I bought for the GM style starter cost $4.00 from GM.
I also don't understand your test results. The bench test shows a normal
starter, but when it was installed and the small wire removed it still
cranked?
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
starter. Maybe it would fit a Chevy who's harness comes at the starter
from below?
I can tell you for sure I would have refused that starter and asked to
see others with the thought the wrong starter got tossed into the Jeep box.
I mean how good is that stupid starter anyway? I have a 5 year warranty
on my Jeep starter and when it does crap out after the warranty, a
rebuild kit is in the twenty dollar range.
Normally we just seize the brushes up from mud and dust. A clean with
WD40 fixes that and when needed a $10.00 set of brushes is added.
Brushes for my XJ's starter ran me $12.00 a couple years back, the last
ones I bought for the GM style starter cost $4.00 from GM.
I also don't understand your test results. The bench test shows a normal
starter, but when it was installed and the small wire removed it still
cranked?
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
01-26-2007, 12:09 PM
#83
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I see what you are saying, I still think they have given you the wrong
starter. Maybe it would fit a Chevy who's harness comes at the starter
from below?
I can tell you for sure I would have refused that starter and asked to
see others with the thought the wrong starter got tossed into the Jeep box.
I mean how good is that stupid starter anyway? I have a 5 year warranty
on my Jeep starter and when it does crap out after the warranty, a
rebuild kit is in the twenty dollar range.
Normally we just seize the brushes up from mud and dust. A clean with
WD40 fixes that and when needed a $10.00 set of brushes is added.
Brushes for my XJ's starter ran me $12.00 a couple years back, the last
ones I bought for the GM style starter cost $4.00 from GM.
I also don't understand your test results. The bench test shows a normal
starter, but when it was installed and the small wire removed it still
cranked?
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
starter. Maybe it would fit a Chevy who's harness comes at the starter
from below?
I can tell you for sure I would have refused that starter and asked to
see others with the thought the wrong starter got tossed into the Jeep box.
I mean how good is that stupid starter anyway? I have a 5 year warranty
on my Jeep starter and when it does crap out after the warranty, a
rebuild kit is in the twenty dollar range.
Normally we just seize the brushes up from mud and dust. A clean with
WD40 fixes that and when needed a $10.00 set of brushes is added.
Brushes for my XJ's starter ran me $12.00 a couple years back, the last
ones I bought for the GM style starter cost $4.00 from GM.
I also don't understand your test results. The bench test shows a normal
starter, but when it was installed and the small wire removed it still
cranked?
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
01-26-2007, 12:09 PM
#84
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I see what you are saying, I still think they have given you the wrong
starter. Maybe it would fit a Chevy who's harness comes at the starter
from below?
I can tell you for sure I would have refused that starter and asked to
see others with the thought the wrong starter got tossed into the Jeep box.
I mean how good is that stupid starter anyway? I have a 5 year warranty
on my Jeep starter and when it does crap out after the warranty, a
rebuild kit is in the twenty dollar range.
Normally we just seize the brushes up from mud and dust. A clean with
WD40 fixes that and when needed a $10.00 set of brushes is added.
Brushes for my XJ's starter ran me $12.00 a couple years back, the last
ones I bought for the GM style starter cost $4.00 from GM.
I also don't understand your test results. The bench test shows a normal
starter, but when it was installed and the small wire removed it still
cranked?
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
starter. Maybe it would fit a Chevy who's harness comes at the starter
from below?
I can tell you for sure I would have refused that starter and asked to
see others with the thought the wrong starter got tossed into the Jeep box.
I mean how good is that stupid starter anyway? I have a 5 year warranty
on my Jeep starter and when it does crap out after the warranty, a
rebuild kit is in the twenty dollar range.
Normally we just seize the brushes up from mud and dust. A clean with
WD40 fixes that and when needed a $10.00 set of brushes is added.
Brushes for my XJ's starter ran me $12.00 a couple years back, the last
ones I bought for the GM style starter cost $4.00 from GM.
I also don't understand your test results. The bench test shows a normal
starter, but when it was installed and the small wire removed it still
cranked?
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
01-26-2007, 12:09 PM
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I see what you are saying, I still think they have given you the wrong
starter. Maybe it would fit a Chevy who's harness comes at the starter
from below?
I can tell you for sure I would have refused that starter and asked to
see others with the thought the wrong starter got tossed into the Jeep box.
I mean how good is that stupid starter anyway? I have a 5 year warranty
on my Jeep starter and when it does crap out after the warranty, a
rebuild kit is in the twenty dollar range.
Normally we just seize the brushes up from mud and dust. A clean with
WD40 fixes that and when needed a $10.00 set of brushes is added.
Brushes for my XJ's starter ran me $12.00 a couple years back, the last
ones I bought for the GM style starter cost $4.00 from GM.
I also don't understand your test results. The bench test shows a normal
starter, but when it was installed and the small wire removed it still
cranked?
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
starter. Maybe it would fit a Chevy who's harness comes at the starter
from below?
I can tell you for sure I would have refused that starter and asked to
see others with the thought the wrong starter got tossed into the Jeep box.
I mean how good is that stupid starter anyway? I have a 5 year warranty
on my Jeep starter and when it does crap out after the warranty, a
rebuild kit is in the twenty dollar range.
Normally we just seize the brushes up from mud and dust. A clean with
WD40 fixes that and when needed a $10.00 set of brushes is added.
Brushes for my XJ's starter ran me $12.00 a couple years back, the last
ones I bought for the GM style starter cost $4.00 from GM.
I also don't understand your test results. The bench test shows a normal
starter, but when it was installed and the small wire removed it still
cranked?
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>
01-26-2007, 01:54 PM
#86
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I am a bit confused as well.
I have to talk to my roommate about it as he is the one who preformed
that test.
I'll let you guys know what he sez.
As to Earle's posting, yes when I jump to the smaller post the starter
runs. So I'm going to check the brown smaller wire with a light tester
to see if it has constant power. Which would then point to the
ignition switch?
01-26-2007, 01:54 PM
#87
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I am a bit confused as well.
I have to talk to my roommate about it as he is the one who preformed
that test.
I'll let you guys know what he sez.
As to Earle's posting, yes when I jump to the smaller post the starter
runs. So I'm going to check the brown smaller wire with a light tester
to see if it has constant power. Which would then point to the
ignition switch?
01-26-2007, 01:54 PM
#88
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I am a bit confused as well.
I have to talk to my roommate about it as he is the one who preformed
that test.
I'll let you guys know what he sez.
As to Earle's posting, yes when I jump to the smaller post the starter
runs. So I'm going to check the brown smaller wire with a light tester
to see if it has constant power. Which would then point to the
ignition switch?
01-26-2007, 01:54 PM
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I am a bit confused as well.
I have to talk to my roommate about it as he is the one who preformed
that test.
I'll let you guys know what he sez.
As to Earle's posting, yes when I jump to the smaller post the starter
runs. So I'm going to check the brown smaller wire with a light tester
to see if it has constant power. Which would then point to the
ignition switch?
01-26-2007, 02:04 PM
#90
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
That would first imply a bad relay jammed on to me 'if' no one has
touched the wires on the relay recently.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> I am a bit confused as well.
>
> I have to talk to my roommate about it as he is the one who preformed
> that test.
>
> I'll let you guys know what he sez.
>
> As to Earle's posting, yes when I jump to the smaller post the starter
> runs. So I'm going to check the brown smaller wire with a light tester
> to see if it has constant power. Which would then point to the
> ignition switch?
>
touched the wires on the relay recently.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> I am a bit confused as well.
>
> I have to talk to my roommate about it as he is the one who preformed
> that test.
>
> I'll let you guys know what he sez.
>
> As to Earle's posting, yes when I jump to the smaller post the starter
> runs. So I'm going to check the brown smaller wire with a light tester
> to see if it has constant power. Which would then point to the
> ignition switch?
>