New starter continually runs
01-25-2007, 04:55 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
battery and one black that comes from the relay.
There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
switch.
I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
position, is my opinion anyway.
So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
........ Even you Mike.
lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
battery and one black that comes from the relay.
There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
switch.
I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
position, is my opinion anyway.
So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
........ Even you Mike.
01-25-2007, 04:55 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
battery and one black that comes from the relay.
There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
switch.
I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
position, is my opinion anyway.
So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
........ Even you Mike.
lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
battery and one black that comes from the relay.
There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
switch.
I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
position, is my opinion anyway.
So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
........ Even you Mike.
01-25-2007, 04:55 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
battery and one black that comes from the relay.
There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
switch.
I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
position, is my opinion anyway.
So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
........ Even you Mike.
lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
battery and one black that comes from the relay.
There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
switch.
I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
position, is my opinion anyway.
So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
........ Even you Mike.
01-25-2007, 05:54 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
to use the correct part for the application.
But that is just me....
If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
at the bottom instead of the top.....
I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> switch.
>
> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>
> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> position, is my opinion anyway.
>
>
> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> ....... Even you Mike.
>
installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
to use the correct part for the application.
But that is just me....
If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
at the bottom instead of the top.....
I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> switch.
>
> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>
> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> position, is my opinion anyway.
>
>
> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> ....... Even you Mike.
>
01-25-2007, 05:54 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
to use the correct part for the application.
But that is just me....
If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
at the bottom instead of the top.....
I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> switch.
>
> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>
> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> position, is my opinion anyway.
>
>
> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> ....... Even you Mike.
>
installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
to use the correct part for the application.
But that is just me....
If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
at the bottom instead of the top.....
I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> switch.
>
> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>
> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> position, is my opinion anyway.
>
>
> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> ....... Even you Mike.
>
01-25-2007, 05:54 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
to use the correct part for the application.
But that is just me....
If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
at the bottom instead of the top.....
I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> switch.
>
> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>
> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> position, is my opinion anyway.
>
>
> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> ....... Even you Mike.
>
installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
to use the correct part for the application.
But that is just me....
If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
at the bottom instead of the top.....
I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> switch.
>
> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>
> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> position, is my opinion anyway.
>
>
> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> ....... Even you Mike.
>
01-25-2007, 05:54 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
to use the correct part for the application.
But that is just me....
If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
at the bottom instead of the top.....
I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> switch.
>
> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>
> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> position, is my opinion anyway.
>
>
> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> ....... Even you Mike.
>
installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
to use the correct part for the application.
But that is just me....
If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
at the bottom instead of the top.....
I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> switch.
>
> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>
> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> position, is my opinion anyway.
>
>
> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> ....... Even you Mike.
>
01-25-2007, 06:53 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
don't really know which is the right one.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
> to use the correct part for the application.
>
> But that is just me....
>
> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>
> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>
> Just my $0.02,
>
> Mike
>
> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> > The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> > lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> > anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> > two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> > battery and one black that comes from the relay.
> >
> > There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> > switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> > is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> > switch.
> >
> > I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> > and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> > ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> > solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
> >
> > The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> > battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> > two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> > the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> > just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> > position, is my opinion anyway.
> >
> >
> > So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> > replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> > ....... Even you Mike.
> >
take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
don't really know which is the right one.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
> to use the correct part for the application.
>
> But that is just me....
>
> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>
> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>
> Just my $0.02,
>
> Mike
>
> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> > The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> > lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> > anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> > two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> > battery and one black that comes from the relay.
> >
> > There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> > switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> > is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> > switch.
> >
> > I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> > and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> > ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> > solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
> >
> > The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> > battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> > two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> > the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> > just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> > position, is my opinion anyway.
> >
> >
> > So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> > replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> > ....... Even you Mike.
> >
01-25-2007, 06:53 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
don't really know which is the right one.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
> to use the correct part for the application.
>
> But that is just me....
>
> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>
> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>
> Just my $0.02,
>
> Mike
>
> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> > The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> > lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> > anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> > two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> > battery and one black that comes from the relay.
> >
> > There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> > switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> > is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> > switch.
> >
> > I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> > and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> > ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> > solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
> >
> > The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> > battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> > two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> > the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> > just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> > position, is my opinion anyway.
> >
> >
> > So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> > replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> > ....... Even you Mike.
> >
take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
don't really know which is the right one.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
> to use the correct part for the application.
>
> But that is just me....
>
> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>
> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>
> Just my $0.02,
>
> Mike
>
> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> > The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> > lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> > anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> > two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> > battery and one black that comes from the relay.
> >
> > There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> > switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> > is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> > switch.
> >
> > I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> > and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> > ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> > solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
> >
> > The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> > battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> > two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> > the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> > just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> > position, is my opinion anyway.
> >
> >
> > So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> > replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> > ....... Even you Mike.
> >
01-25-2007, 06:53 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
don't really know which is the right one.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
> to use the correct part for the application.
>
> But that is just me....
>
> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>
> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>
> Just my $0.02,
>
> Mike
>
> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> > The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> > lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> > anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> > two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> > battery and one black that comes from the relay.
> >
> > There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> > switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> > is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> > switch.
> >
> > I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> > and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> > ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> > solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
> >
> > The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> > battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> > two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> > the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> > just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> > position, is my opinion anyway.
> >
> >
> > So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> > replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> > ....... Even you Mike.
> >
take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
don't really know which is the right one.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
> to use the correct part for the application.
>
> But that is just me....
>
> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>
> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>
> Just my $0.02,
>
> Mike
>
> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> > The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> > lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> > anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> > two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> > battery and one black that comes from the relay.
> >
> > There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> > switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> > is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> > switch.
> >
> > I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> > and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> > ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> > solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
> >
> > The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> > battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> > two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> > the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> > just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> > position, is my opinion anyway.
> >
> >
> > So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> > replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> > ....... Even you Mike.
> >
