New starter continually runs
01-25-2007, 06:53 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
don't really know which is the right one.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
> to use the correct part for the application.
>
> But that is just me....
>
> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>
> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>
> Just my $0.02,
>
> Mike
>
> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> > The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> > lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> > anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> > two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> > battery and one black that comes from the relay.
> >
> > There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> > switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> > is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> > switch.
> >
> > I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> > and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> > ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> > solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
> >
> > The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> > battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> > two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> > the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> > just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> > position, is my opinion anyway.
> >
> >
> > So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> > replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> > ....... Even you Mike.
> >
take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
don't really know which is the right one.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
> to use the correct part for the application.
>
> But that is just me....
>
> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>
> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>
> Just my $0.02,
>
> Mike
>
> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> > The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> > lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> > anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> > two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> > battery and one black that comes from the relay.
> >
> > There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
> > switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
> > is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
> > switch.
> >
> > I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
> > and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
> > ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
> > solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
> >
> > The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
> > battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
> > two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
> > the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
> > just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
> > position, is my opinion anyway.
> >
> >
> > So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
> > replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
> > ....... Even you Mike.
> >
01-25-2007, 06:58 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Very good point!
Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
would be a quick fix anyway.
Mike
Earle Horton wrote:
> I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
> take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
> point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
> sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
> don't really know which is the right one.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
>> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
>> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
>> to use the correct part for the application.
>>
>> But that is just me....
>>
>> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
>> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
>> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
>> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
>> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
>> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>>
>> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
>> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
>> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
>>> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
>>> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
>>> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
>>> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>>>
>>> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
>>> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
>>> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
>>> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
>>> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
>>> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>>>
>>> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
>>> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
>>> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
>>> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
>>> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
>>> position, is my opinion anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
>>> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
>>> ....... Even you Mike.
>>>
>
>
Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
would be a quick fix anyway.
Mike
Earle Horton wrote:
> I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
> take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
> point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
> sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
> don't really know which is the right one.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
>> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
>> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
>> to use the correct part for the application.
>>
>> But that is just me....
>>
>> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
>> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
>> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
>> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
>> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
>> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>>
>> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
>> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
>> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
>>> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
>>> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
>>> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
>>> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>>>
>>> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
>>> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
>>> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
>>> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
>>> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
>>> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>>>
>>> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
>>> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
>>> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
>>> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
>>> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
>>> position, is my opinion anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
>>> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
>>> ....... Even you Mike.
>>>
>
>
01-25-2007, 06:58 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Very good point!
Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
would be a quick fix anyway.
Mike
Earle Horton wrote:
> I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
> take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
> point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
> sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
> don't really know which is the right one.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
>> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
>> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
>> to use the correct part for the application.
>>
>> But that is just me....
>>
>> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
>> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
>> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
>> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
>> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
>> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>>
>> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
>> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
>> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
>>> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
>>> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
>>> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
>>> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>>>
>>> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
>>> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
>>> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
>>> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
>>> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
>>> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>>>
>>> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
>>> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
>>> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
>>> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
>>> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
>>> position, is my opinion anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
>>> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
>>> ....... Even you Mike.
>>>
>
>
Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
would be a quick fix anyway.
Mike
Earle Horton wrote:
> I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
> take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
> point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
> sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
> don't really know which is the right one.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
>> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
>> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
>> to use the correct part for the application.
>>
>> But that is just me....
>>
>> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
>> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
>> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
>> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
>> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
>> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>>
>> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
>> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
>> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
>>> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
>>> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
>>> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
>>> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>>>
>>> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
>>> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
>>> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
>>> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
>>> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
>>> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>>>
>>> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
>>> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
>>> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
>>> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
>>> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
>>> position, is my opinion anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
>>> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
>>> ....... Even you Mike.
>>>
>
>
01-25-2007, 06:58 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Very good point!
Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
would be a quick fix anyway.
Mike
Earle Horton wrote:
> I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
> take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
> point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
> sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
> don't really know which is the right one.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
>> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
>> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
>> to use the correct part for the application.
>>
>> But that is just me....
>>
>> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
>> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
>> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
>> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
>> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
>> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>>
>> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
>> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
>> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
>>> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
>>> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
>>> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
>>> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>>>
>>> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
>>> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
>>> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
>>> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
>>> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
>>> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>>>
>>> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
>>> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
>>> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
>>> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
>>> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
>>> position, is my opinion anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
>>> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
>>> ....... Even you Mike.
>>>
>
>
Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
would be a quick fix anyway.
Mike
Earle Horton wrote:
> I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
> take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
> point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
> sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
> don't really know which is the right one.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
>> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
>> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
>> to use the correct part for the application.
>>
>> But that is just me....
>>
>> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
>> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
>> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
>> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
>> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
>> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>>
>> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
>> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
>> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
>>> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
>>> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
>>> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
>>> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>>>
>>> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
>>> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
>>> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
>>> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
>>> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
>>> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>>>
>>> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
>>> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
>>> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
>>> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
>>> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
>>> position, is my opinion anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
>>> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
>>> ....... Even you Mike.
>>>
>
>
01-25-2007, 06:58 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Very good point!
Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
would be a quick fix anyway.
Mike
Earle Horton wrote:
> I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
> take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
> point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
> sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
> don't really know which is the right one.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
>> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
>> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
>> to use the correct part for the application.
>>
>> But that is just me....
>>
>> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
>> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
>> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
>> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
>> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
>> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>>
>> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
>> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
>> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
>>> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
>>> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
>>> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
>>> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>>>
>>> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
>>> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
>>> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
>>> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
>>> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
>>> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>>>
>>> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
>>> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
>>> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
>>> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
>>> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
>>> position, is my opinion anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
>>> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
>>> ....... Even you Mike.
>>>
>
>
Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
would be a quick fix anyway.
Mike
Earle Horton wrote:
> I don't have a picture or a starter to work with, but sometimes you just
> take out the bolts and rotate the solenoid or the nose cone so that things
> point the way you want, then bolt it back together. There can be two or
> sometimes three possible orientations, and the guys in the rebuild shops
> don't really know which is the right one.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:45b934f3$0$5654$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> I would have point blank refused the starter in the first place. I have
>> installed hundreds of starters over the years and have 'never' put the
>> wrong one in so the wiring had to be modified to make it fit. I prefer
>> to use the correct part for the application.
>>
>> But that is just me....
>>
>> If it is indeed the completely wrong starter like I think it might be,
>> then it needs a solenoid upstream from the battery connection like the
>> Ford variety uses. The battery cable goes to the starter relay and from
>> there a second battery cable goes down to the starter motor. That type
>> turns as soon as the main post sees power 'AND' has it's connection down
>> at the bottom instead of the top.....
>>
>> I would use a set of booster cables at the auto shop on the next one to
>> see if it spins up with direct power too.... I just hold my foot on
>> them and touch the cables to the starter when they are on my battery.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
>>> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
>>> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
>>> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
>>> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>>>
>>> There isn't any other electrical devices turned on when the ingnition
>>> switch is turned off. And all electrical systems work when the switch
>>> is turned on, so I agree in that I don't think its the electrical
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> I did take the black wire off the starter and reconnected the batter
>>> and the starter as Tom described started again. I was unware if this
>>> ment the starter was bad, but from what Tom is saying sounds like the
>>> solenoid is crap and needs replaced.
>>>
>>> The only reason I needed to splice extensions onto the wires from the
>>> battery and the relay is because on the stock starter the posts for the
>>> two wires come off the solenoid at around an 11 oclock position. With
>>> the mean green starter the posts come off at a 6 oclock position. Its
>>> just a different arrangement of solenoid position to the starter motor
>>> position, is my opinion anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>> So looks like its a defective from factory starter that needs to be
>>> replaced. Thanks for your guy's help!
>>> ....... Even you Mike.
>>>
>
>
01-25-2007, 07:16 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
Make sure you post the final fix. Inquiring minds and all that...
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
Make sure you post the final fix. Inquiring minds and all that...
01-25-2007, 07:16 PM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
Make sure you post the final fix. Inquiring minds and all that...
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
Make sure you post the final fix. Inquiring minds and all that...
01-25-2007, 07:16 PM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
Make sure you post the final fix. Inquiring minds and all that...
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
Make sure you post the final fix. Inquiring minds and all that...
01-25-2007, 07:16 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Erik.Hosler@gmail.com wrote:
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
Make sure you post the final fix. Inquiring minds and all that...
> The last post is the story im sticking with too. I went home over
> lunch and took a good hard look to make sure wasn't missing wires or
> anything tucked away when I removed the old starter. There are only
> two wires going to the starter, one hot(red) that comes from the
> battery and one black that comes from the relay.
>
Make sure you post the final fix. Inquiring minds and all that...
01-25-2007, 08:09 PM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New starter continually runs
Mike Romain wrote:
> Very good point!
>
> Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
> would be a quick fix anyway.
>
> Mike
>
Quick fix for what? He's already extended his wiring so that's not an
issue anymore and he'd be hard pressed to swap these two wires at the
starter. The problem is the starter takes off as soon as the wires are
connected.
A motorcraft starter will have a solenoid on the fender well and
appropriate wires running to it, and one down to the starter. His
starter has two wires running to it hence it's not a motorcraft, and has
the solenoid mounted directly to it so again, not a motorcraft.
His system should have a starter relay energized by the ignition switch,
which in turn feeds power down to the solenoid on his starter. When
this starter mounted solenoid energizes it will connect the hot wire
that runs DIRECTLY from his battery to said solenoid, to the starter motor.
If the starter takes off with the brown (look real close Erik. I bet
it's not really black) solenoid wire disconnected then his STARTER
MOUNTED solenoid has to be defective.
> Very good point!
>
> Most have two bolts so it could be upside down for the application. It
> would be a quick fix anyway.
>
> Mike
>
Quick fix for what? He's already extended his wiring so that's not an
issue anymore and he'd be hard pressed to swap these two wires at the
starter. The problem is the starter takes off as soon as the wires are
connected.
A motorcraft starter will have a solenoid on the fender well and
appropriate wires running to it, and one down to the starter. His
starter has two wires running to it hence it's not a motorcraft, and has
the solenoid mounted directly to it so again, not a motorcraft.
His system should have a starter relay energized by the ignition switch,
which in turn feeds power down to the solenoid on his starter. When
this starter mounted solenoid energizes it will connect the hot wire
that runs DIRECTLY from his battery to said solenoid, to the starter motor.
If the starter takes off with the brown (look real close Erik. I bet
it's not really black) solenoid wire disconnected then his STARTER
MOUNTED solenoid has to be defective.
