twaldron

Hey Snow! Yes, the steel is thinner today, but it's made of High
Strength Steel which is much stronger and lighter than the older sheet
metal. The automotive steel is treated for corrosion/rust MUCH better
than in the past. Zinc baths and primers make a huge difference.

Snow wrote:
> I have to disagree with this very strongly... Newer vehicles are
more prone
> to rust then anything built 20-30 years ago.. Today the sheet metal is
> thinner and weaker seams are not made the same they are just welded, where
> as on older vehicle the seam edges were rolled and stamped before being
> welded. Not to mention, if you go to the dealer to have every rust spot
> touched up you will be paying a fortune, the best bet is to use a liquid
> rust proofing like rust check (www.rustcheck.com ).

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

twaldron

Hey Snow! Yes, the steel is thinner today, but it's made of High
Strength Steel which is much stronger and lighter than the older sheet
metal. The automotive steel is treated for corrosion/rust MUCH better
than in the past. Zinc baths and primers make a huge difference.

Snow wrote:
> I have to disagree with this very strongly... Newer vehicles are
more prone
> to rust then anything built 20-30 years ago.. Today the sheet metal is
> thinner and weaker seams are not made the same they are just welded, where
> as on older vehicle the seam edges were rolled and stamped before being
> welded. Not to mention, if you go to the dealer to have every rust spot
> touched up you will be paying a fortune, the best bet is to use a liquid
> rust proofing like rust check (www.rustcheck.com ).

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

Simon Juncal

Snow wrote:
> I have to disagree with this very strongly... Newer vehicles are more prone
> to rust then anything built 20-30 years ago.. Today the sheet metal is
> thinner and weaker seams are not made the same they are just welded, where
> as on older vehicle the seam edges were rolled and stamped before being
> welded. Not to mention, if you go to the dealer to have every rust spot
> touched up you will be paying a fortune, the best bet is to use a liquid
> rust proofing like rust check (www.rustcheck.com ).

That rolling/lipping/stamping creates a nice pocket for moisture and
more importantly tiny bits of organic matter (like dirt from muddy
water) to get trapped in, which then does a superb job of keeping water
in contact with (in the case of old cars) un primed, untreated sheet metal.

Those rolled metal edges are usually among the first area's that need to
be cut out. Classic cars often have there worst rust in the lower doors
(rolled seams), the floor pans (un treated/unprimed underside, often
with a bad undercoating job which accelerates the rot by trapping
moisture against bare metal) the rocker panels which have lots of
moisture trapping spots usually a lip under the car or a spot welded
seam where the floor pans meet it. The lower fenders (usually a lip).

More modern cars seal the rolled seams of the doors and the sheet inside
the door is usually primed, then there's splash guards in the wheel
wells to keep water/crud off the lip of fenders.

Simon Juncal

Snow wrote:
> I have to disagree with this very strongly... Newer vehicles are more prone
> to rust then anything built 20-30 years ago.. Today the sheet metal is
> thinner and weaker seams are not made the same they are just welded, where
> as on older vehicle the seam edges were rolled and stamped before being
> welded. Not to mention, if you go to the dealer to have every rust spot
> touched up you will be paying a fortune, the best bet is to use a liquid
> rust proofing like rust check (www.rustcheck.com ).

That rolling/lipping/stamping creates a nice pocket for moisture and
more importantly tiny bits of organic matter (like dirt from muddy
water) to get trapped in, which then does a superb job of keeping water
in contact with (in the case of old cars) un primed, untreated sheet metal.

Those rolled metal edges are usually among the first area's that need to
be cut out. Classic cars often have there worst rust in the lower doors
(rolled seams), the floor pans (un treated/unprimed underside, often
with a bad undercoating job which accelerates the rot by trapping
moisture against bare metal) the rocker panels which have lots of
moisture trapping spots usually a lip under the car or a spot welded
seam where the floor pans meet it. The lower fenders (usually a lip).

More modern cars seal the rolled seams of the doors and the sheet inside
the door is usually primed, then there's splash guards in the wheel
wells to keep water/crud off the lip of fenders.

Simon Juncal

Snow wrote:
> I have to disagree with this very strongly... Newer vehicles are more prone
> to rust then anything built 20-30 years ago.. Today the sheet metal is
> thinner and weaker seams are not made the same they are just welded, where
> as on older vehicle the seam edges were rolled and stamped before being
> welded. Not to mention, if you go to the dealer to have every rust spot
> touched up you will be paying a fortune, the best bet is to use a liquid
> rust proofing like rust check (www.rustcheck.com ).

That rolling/lipping/stamping creates a nice pocket for moisture and
more importantly tiny bits of organic matter (like dirt from muddy
water) to get trapped in, which then does a superb job of keeping water
in contact with (in the case of old cars) un primed, untreated sheet metal.

Those rolled metal edges are usually among the first area's that need to
be cut out. Classic cars often have there worst rust in the lower doors
(rolled seams), the floor pans (un treated/unprimed underside, often
with a bad undercoating job which accelerates the rot by trapping
moisture against bare metal) the rocker panels which have lots of
moisture trapping spots usually a lip under the car or a spot welded
seam where the floor pans meet it. The lower fenders (usually a lip).

More modern cars seal the rolled seams of the doors and the sheet inside
the door is usually primed, then there's splash guards in the wheel
wells to keep water/crud off the lip of fenders.

Jerry McG

> Jerry, you really don't remember Rambler's commercials where they
submerged the complete bodies in primer? <

RAMBLER??? I thought we were talking about "modern cars"?

Some other guy complained that his '73 Chevy pickup rotted: "HELLO, 1973 was
thrty years ago, HELLO!!!!"

Jerry McG

> Jerry, you really don't remember Rambler's commercials where they
submerged the complete bodies in primer? <

RAMBLER??? I thought we were talking about "modern cars"?

Some other guy complained that his '73 Chevy pickup rotted: "HELLO, 1973 was
thrty years ago, HELLO!!!!"

Jerry McG

> Jerry, you really don't remember Rambler's commercials where they
submerged the complete bodies in primer? <

RAMBLER??? I thought we were talking about "modern cars"?

Some other guy complained that his '73 Chevy pickup rotted: "HELLO, 1973 was
thrty years ago, HELLO!!!!"

Jerry McG

> Hey Snow! Yes, the steel is thinner today, but it's made of High Strength
Steel which is much stronger and lighter than the older sheet metal. The
automotive steel is treated for corrosion/rust MUCH better than in the past.
Zinc baths and primers make a huge difference.>

Right you are. The galvanized primers and wax injection prevent any small
bits of corrosion from ------ing. That's why you don't see newer cars with
rotted wheel wells, rocker panels, etc.

1973 Chevy pickups, Ramblers, etc. aren't considered "newer"!

Jerry McG

> Hey Snow! Yes, the steel is thinner today, but it's made of High Strength
Steel which is much stronger and lighter than the older sheet metal. The
automotive steel is treated for corrosion/rust MUCH better than in the past.
Zinc baths and primers make a huge difference.>

Right you are. The galvanized primers and wax injection prevent any small
bits of corrosion from ------ing. That's why you don't see newer cars with
rotted wheel wells, rocker panels, etc.

1973 Chevy pickups, Ramblers, etc. aren't considered "newer"!