I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
I stick in the compressor.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


Gary Tateosian wrote:
>
> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>
> ...Gareth

 

I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
I stick in the compressor.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


Gary Tateosian wrote:
>
> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>
> ...Gareth

 

I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
I stick in the compressor.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


Gary Tateosian wrote:
>
> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>
> ...Gareth

 

On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 15:43:12 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:

> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
>all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
>I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dude, you're a pig. :-) (just kiddin')

>
>
>Gary Tateosian wrote:
>>
>> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
>> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
>> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
>> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
>> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
>> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
>> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
>> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
>> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
>> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
>> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
>> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
>> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
>> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
>> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
>> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
>> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
>> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
>> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
>> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
>> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
>> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
>> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
>> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
>> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
>> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
>> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
>> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>>
>> ...Gareth

--

Less drivel, more Dremel.
Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite,
and furthermore always carry a small snake.
- W.C. Fields

 

On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 15:43:12 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:

> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
>all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
>I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dude, you're a pig. :-) (just kiddin')

>
>
>Gary Tateosian wrote:
>>
>> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
>> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
>> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
>> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
>> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
>> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
>> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
>> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
>> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
>> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
>> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
>> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
>> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
>> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
>> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
>> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
>> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
>> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
>> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
>> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
>> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
>> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
>> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
>> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
>> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
>> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
>> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
>> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>>
>> ...Gareth

--

Less drivel, more Dremel.
Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite,
and furthermore always carry a small snake.
- W.C. Fields

 

On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 15:43:12 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:

> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
>all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
>I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dude, you're a pig. :-) (just kiddin')

>
>
>Gary Tateosian wrote:
>>
>> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
>> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
>> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
>> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
>> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
>> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
>> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
>> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
>> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
>> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
>> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
>> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
>> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
>> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
>> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
>> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
>> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
>> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
>> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
>> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
>> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
>> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
>> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
>> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
>> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
>> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
>> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
>> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>>
>> ...Gareth

--

Less drivel, more Dremel.
Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite,
and furthermore always carry a small snake.
- W.C. Fields

 

On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 15:43:12 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:

> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
>all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
>I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dude, you're a pig. :-) (just kiddin')

>
>
>Gary Tateosian wrote:
>>
>> ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
>> nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
>> and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
>> (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
>> I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
>> engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
>> used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
>> service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
>> not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
>> such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
>> high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
>> some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
>> generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
>> break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
>> high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
>> a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
>> using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
>> heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
>> both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
>> non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
>> cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
>> rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
>> jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
>> aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
>> longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
>> make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
>> the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
>> everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
>>
>> ...Gareth

--

Less drivel, more Dremel.
Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite,
and furthermore always carry a small snake.
- W.C. Fields

 

For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
8500 RPM drag engine.

Chris

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C4EF80.CFC01EFF@***.net...
> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
> all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
> I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> Gary Tateosian wrote:
> >
> > ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> > nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> > and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> > (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> > I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> > engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> > used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> > service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> > not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> > such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> > high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> > some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> > generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> > break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> > high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> > a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> > using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> > heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> > both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> > non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> > cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> > rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> > jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> > aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> > longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> > make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> > the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> > everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
> >
> > ...Gareth

 

For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
8500 RPM drag engine.

Chris

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C4EF80.CFC01EFF@***.net...
> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
> all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
> I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> Gary Tateosian wrote:
> >
> > ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> > nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> > and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> > (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> > I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> > engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> > used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> > service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> > not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> > such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> > high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> > some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> > generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> > break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> > high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> > a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> > using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> > heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> > both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> > non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> > cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> > rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> > jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> > aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> > longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> > make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> > the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> > everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
> >
> > ...Gareth

 

For years I have used a product called Lubriplate No. 105 on the cylinders
and bearings. I then oil the rings with transmission fluid. I was told by
several engine builders that this will prevent the oil from coking,
especially between the 2 compression rings. I don't know if this holds water
or not, but it has always worked for me whether it was a stock rebuild or a
8500 RPM drag engine.

Chris

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C4EF80.CFC01EFF@***.net...
> I wouldn't use a solvent or penetrating oil on assembly. I slop oil
> all over the place, like I start by submerging the piston in oil before
> I stick in the compressor.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> Gary Tateosian wrote:
> >
> > ...I'm thinking that by "drive normally, for me anyways" he means he
> > nowmally beats the snot outta it =-) Still your link was right on,
> > and has been bookmarked for future use when thbis topic comes up,
> > (which it does often and saved me typing out a long disertation..when
> > I wasn't positive of the oiling system regarding the cam on the AMC
> > engines..I haven't torn into one yet, and though I assumed that they
> > used some form of splash oilingand would require the same break in
> > service I was used to on the engines I have assembled both stock and
> > not so stock =-)...I did not want to post erronious information on
> > such an important topic. Of note, while we are on this topic, is on
> > high performace engines (and correct me please if this differs for
> > some reason for a jeep...though I cannot see why it would) it is
> > generally reccomended to run light springs on the valves for the cam
> > break in then switch afterwards to the heavy springs required for
> > high RPMS...also, a typical garden sprayed with the wand cut off makes
> > a nifty and inexpensive pre-oiler. I would like the groups comments on
> > using WD-40 for the cylinders in assembly for quicker break in.I have
> > heard various reccomendations from very knowledgeable people going
> > both ways on this,.,,, I have and do use straight 20 weight
> > non-detergent kendall oil for cylinders and in engine during 20 minute
> > cam break in...then drain and switch to regular oil before seatinmg
> > rings. As some might have noticed from my posts...I do not yet have a
> > jeep....do have an AMC eagle....but have been doing engine building on
> > aircooled VW's for a long time...and general wrenching for even
> > longer. Principles of engineering do not change however, whatever the
> > make, so I hope to eventually make a contribution to the group for
> > the specific AMC knowledge I have allready picked up Via google from
> > everyone elses years of skinned knuckles. =-)
> >
> > ...Gareth