New engine break in procedure
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
New engine break in procedure
Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Comments anyone?
For me, I always say to drive it normally.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Comments anyone?
For me, I always say to drive it normally.
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
"FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
>
I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for someone, I
tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the time.
Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend that
someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum towing
capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information on that
site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures, but this
also depends on ring type.
Chris
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
"FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
>
I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for someone, I
tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the time.
Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend that
someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum towing
capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information on that
site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures, but this
also depends on ring type.
Chris
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
"FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
>
I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for someone, I
tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the time.
Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend that
someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum towing
capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information on that
site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures, but this
also depends on ring type.
Chris
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
"FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
>
I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for someone, I
tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the time.
Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend that
someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum towing
capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information on that
site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures, but this
also depends on ring type.
Chris
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Hi Frank,
All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Hi Frank,
All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Hi Frank,
All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Hi Frank,
All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
FrankW wrote:
>
> Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>
> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>
> Comments anyone?
> For me, I always say to drive it normally.
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: New engine break in procedure
Chris,
What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
Thanks,
Bill
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> >
> > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> >
> > Comments anyone?
> > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> >
>
> I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for someone,
I
> tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the time.
> Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend that
> someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum towing
> capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information on
that
> site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures, but
this
> also depends on ring type.
>
> Chris
>
>
What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
Thanks,
Bill
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> >
> > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> >
> > Comments anyone?
> > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> >
>
> I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for someone,
I
> tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the time.
> Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend that
> someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum towing
> capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information on
that
> site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures, but
this
> also depends on ring type.
>
> Chris
>
>