the squealing you hear could be from the metallic in the new pads. a bigger
chunk than should be there causing the squeal, that happens with less cost
pads
did you clean off the rust and lube the caliper slides??? was there dents
were the pads contact the slides? with out lube the pads can get stuck in
those grooves and the caliper piston boot does not have enough strength to
pull the pad off the rotor and a squeal will result
hence the goop theory to silence the pads what it does is glue the pads to
the piston so it can be pulled away from the rotor when the piston retracts
bac into the caliper( but others will tell you different) what about the
rear brakes could they be do for replacement ?

Mike Romain wrote:

> There is some goop you buy that goes where the brake piston hits the
> pad. This stuff will stop most squeals. Some pads come with a fiber or
> metal backing pad that is for this too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Igor wrote:
> >
> > Hey All,
> >
> > About a year ago I got the famous warped rotors at 14K on my 03 TJ
> > Sport. Even though it was out of warranty, the dealer replaced pads
> > and rotors. Recently, to no ones' surprise, it happened again (another
> > 14K miles later.) This time the dealer refused to fix it for free and
> > wanted $450.
> >
> > I did the research on this group (special thank you to Jerry
> > Bradsford), got the new rotors and pads and did it myself in under 2
> > hours. Well, the breaks worked great, no more pulsating and stopping
> > real well, but after about 20 miles they started producing very
> > high-pitched squeal when applying medium brake pressure. It's just
> > annoying.
> >
> > Did I do something wrong? The rotors are Wagner Heavy Duty and pads
> > are semi-metallic (I forget the brand already, but I can find out if
> > it's important)Plus, I bought a torque wrench and tightened all
> > lugnuts to 95 ft/lbs.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Igor.