800 is closer to what it should be. I try and keep mine between 750 and
850 rpm.

If the canister purge valve is bad, it lowers the manifold vacuum at
idle which also can make a stumble.

Mike

Jeepster wrote:
>
> Mike this is a new carb but I guess that doesn't mean it was set up
> correct from the factory, I did have the idle very low ( I was
> marvelling at how well it idles with the computer out of the loop) and
> since that time I have bumped it up to about 800 rpm from about 500 or
> 600 rpm. That seems to have solved the minor stutter when starting out
> from a stop. Thanks
>
> On Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:42:44 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Canadian tire sells carb kits for them for about $20.00. The kit comes
> >with a new needle and seat for the float and a new accelerator pump.
> >
> >A kit can do them wonders. Things like the pump do wear out.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> On Sat, 13 Dec 2003 11:03:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >Normally when I see a disconnected canister, that means the purge valve
> >> >went bad.
> >> >
> >> >I noticed you mention you have it hooked up now. I would recommend you
> >> >test it.
> >> >
> >> >If blown, the canister purge valve will effectively shut down the PCV
> >> >system and cause lots of oil to spit into the air filter. It will also
> >> >make the idle rough and erratic.
> >> Yup it sure was the idle had picked up 100 or so RPM and it had that
> >> little bit of a stumble showing up when idling.
> >> >
> >> >To test it have the engine running at idle and pinch the line from the
> >> >canister to the PCV line closed. If the idle changes, the canister is
> >> >dead.
> >> >
> >> >The canister is only supposed to be purging when the engine is hot and
> >> >at speed. The purge signal is a ported vacuum source routed through the
> >> >CTO valve.
> >> >
> >> >The canister also has an air filter on the bottom. CT sells them for
> >> >about two bucks. Getting the first one out is a bear, it will need to
> >> >be dug out with a screwdriver or hammer and chisel like mine. The new
> >> >one just tucks back in.
> >> I will just go and get a whole new canister ..... :)
> >> >
> >> >You really don't want the EGR to open until the engine is 'really'
> >> >warmed up. That TVS holds the EGR closed until the air filter has
> >> >warmed up enough.
> >> I took it off today and it is packed up solid I'm waiting for a new
> >> one to come in and if I have to I will visit the local Pick Your Part
> >> and grab a TVS.
> >> >
> >> >Maybe ask CT about one from a 91 YJ? Or one from a 86 CJ7? These both
> >> >have the 4.2 engine.
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> Now that I have had a chance to drive it since doing the Nutter and
> >> adjusting the idle screws I do notice a slight stumble went I start
> >> out from a stop...... What could be causing this?
> >>
> >> Thanks as always.
> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I have really started to get interested in this beast of a vehicle and
> >> >> the numberous vacuum lines etc and with this I'm starting to notice a
> >> >> lot of potential problems.
> >> >>
> >> >> 1.) My vehicle stinks like gas when in the garage and I know there are
> >> >> no leaks so I can assume that the evap canister is plugged? Or is it
> >> >> possible it is not purging and is just sitting there full of gas?
> >> >> If it isn't purging could it be a faulty CTO valve?
> >> >>
> >> >> 2.) Looking at a diagram of vac / vapour line routing for a YJ I see
> >> >> that the PCV valve should be tee'd over to the evap cannister. On my
> >> >> routing I can follow the PCV vent line (located at front end of valve
> >> >> cover) directly to the carb (No tee to evap cannister)
> >> >>
> >> >> 3.) I also have a broken nipple on the TVS valve so I imagine this is
> >> >> one of the reasons why the EGR valve is not moving. Could I bypass the
> >> >> TVS valve and have the EGR function all the time? I went to 3 places 2
> >> >> of them didn't know what the TVS valve was and Canuck Tire said the
> >> >> part was discontinued.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks

 

Thanks Mike and everyone else who responded to my pleas for help, I
sure understand the workings of this vehicle a hell of a lot better
than I did a week ago. It was such a treat today to take it for an
extended run on the highway (first day back to work) it feels great to
run through the gears and have steady acceleration and no ******* at
3000 rpm which seemed to be about all it would rev before. Yesterday I
took out the EGR valve and after looking at it for a bit realised that
I was missing a hole somewhere, the exhaust inlet was coked over
smooth, I priced a new EGR and found that it was a $150 Cdn hit. I
went home and decided to try and clean it out and it seems to be
working fine now. The TVS switch I couldn't find at the parts places
is used in Ford vehicles also so I did manage to find a new switch.
The vehicle use to sound like it was running hot before and now I just
get the normal contraction noises that I would expect when I shut it
down, that leads me to believe that the EGR is doing what it should.

I have 6 days off coming up and I plan to go to the local Pick Your
Part and get myself an HEI GM distributor and beef up the ignition
system. I know that some folks say the TFI Ford is a slightly better
mod but hell the vehicle has 297,000 Km's on it. I also decided to go
the GM route as I can find more pages with info on the mod and GM
parts are very easy to find. I will take some pics of the project and
let you know how I make out.

Thanks again.


On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 10:09:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>800 is closer to what it should be. I try and keep mine between 750 and
>850 rpm.
>
>If the canister purge valve is bad, it lowers the manifold vacuum at
>idle which also can make a stumble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Mike this is a new carb but I guess that doesn't mean it was set up
>> correct from the factory, I did have the idle very low ( I was
>> marvelling at how well it idles with the computer out of the loop) and
>> since that time I have bumped it up to about 800 rpm from about 500 or
>> 600 rpm. That seems to have solved the minor stutter when starting out
>> from a stop. Thanks
>>
>> On Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:42:44 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Canadian tire sells carb kits for them for about $20.00. The kit comes
>> >with a new needle and seat for the float and a new accelerator pump.
>> >
>> >A kit can do them wonders. Things like the pump do wear out.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> On Sat, 13 Dec 2003 11:03:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >Normally when I see a disconnected canister, that means the purge valve
>> >> >went bad.
>> >> >
>> >> >I noticed you mention you have it hooked up now. I would recommend you
>> >> >test it.
>> >> >
>> >> >If blown, the canister purge valve will effectively shut down the PCV
>> >> >system and cause lots of oil to spit into the air filter. It will also
>> >> >make the idle rough and erratic.
>> >> Yup it sure was the idle had picked up 100 or so RPM and it had that
>> >> little bit of a stumble showing up when idling.
>> >> >
>> >> >To test it have the engine running at idle and pinch the line from the
>> >> >canister to the PCV line closed. If the idle changes, the canister is
>> >> >dead.
>> >> >
>> >> >The canister is only supposed to be purging when the engine is hot and
>> >> >at speed. The purge signal is a ported vacuum source routed through the
>> >> >CTO valve.
>> >> >
>> >> >The canister also has an air filter on the bottom. CT sells them for
>> >> >about two bucks. Getting the first one out is a bear, it will need to
>> >> >be dug out with a screwdriver or hammer and chisel like mine. The new
>> >> >one just tucks back in.
>> >> I will just go and get a whole new canister ..... :)
>> >> >
>> >> >You really don't want the EGR to open until the engine is 'really'
>> >> >warmed up. That TVS holds the EGR closed until the air filter has
>> >> >warmed up enough.
>> >> I took it off today and it is packed up solid I'm waiting for a new
>> >> one to come in and if I have to I will visit the local Pick Your Part
>> >> and grab a TVS.
>> >> >
>> >> >Maybe ask CT about one from a 91 YJ? Or one from a 86 CJ7? These both
>> >> >have the 4.2 engine.
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> Now that I have had a chance to drive it since doing the Nutter and
>> >> adjusting the idle screws I do notice a slight stumble went I start
>> >> out from a stop...... What could be causing this?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks as always.
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I have really started to get interested in this beast of a vehicle and
>> >> >> the numberous vacuum lines etc and with this I'm starting to notice a
>> >> >> lot of potential problems.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 1.) My vehicle stinks like gas when in the garage and I know there are
>> >> >> no leaks so I can assume that the evap canister is plugged? Or is it
>> >> >> possible it is not purging and is just sitting there full of gas?
>> >> >> If it isn't purging could it be a faulty CTO valve?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 2.) Looking at a diagram of vac / vapour line routing for a YJ I see
>> >> >> that the PCV valve should be tee'd over to the evap cannister. On my
>> >> >> routing I can follow the PCV vent line (located at front end of valve
>> >> >> cover) directly to the carb (No tee to evap cannister)
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 3.) I also have a broken nipple on the TVS valve so I imagine this is
>> >> >> one of the reasons why the EGR valve is not moving. Could I bypass the
>> >> >> TVS valve and have the EGR function all the time? I went to 3 places 2
>> >> >> of them didn't know what the TVS valve was and Canuck Tire said the
>> >> >> part was discontinued.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks

 

Thanks Mike and everyone else who responded to my pleas for help, I
sure understand the workings of this vehicle a hell of a lot better
than I did a week ago. It was such a treat today to take it for an
extended run on the highway (first day back to work) it feels great to
run through the gears and have steady acceleration and no ******* at
3000 rpm which seemed to be about all it would rev before. Yesterday I
took out the EGR valve and after looking at it for a bit realised that
I was missing a hole somewhere, the exhaust inlet was coked over
smooth, I priced a new EGR and found that it was a $150 Cdn hit. I
went home and decided to try and clean it out and it seems to be
working fine now. The TVS switch I couldn't find at the parts places
is used in Ford vehicles also so I did manage to find a new switch.
The vehicle use to sound like it was running hot before and now I just
get the normal contraction noises that I would expect when I shut it
down, that leads me to believe that the EGR is doing what it should.

I have 6 days off coming up and I plan to go to the local Pick Your
Part and get myself an HEI GM distributor and beef up the ignition
system. I know that some folks say the TFI Ford is a slightly better
mod but hell the vehicle has 297,000 Km's on it. I also decided to go
the GM route as I can find more pages with info on the mod and GM
parts are very easy to find. I will take some pics of the project and
let you know how I make out.

Thanks again.


On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 10:09:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>800 is closer to what it should be. I try and keep mine between 750 and
>850 rpm.
>
>If the canister purge valve is bad, it lowers the manifold vacuum at
>idle which also can make a stumble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Mike this is a new carb but I guess that doesn't mean it was set up
>> correct from the factory, I did have the idle very low ( I was
>> marvelling at how well it idles with the computer out of the loop) and
>> since that time I have bumped it up to about 800 rpm from about 500 or
>> 600 rpm. That seems to have solved the minor stutter when starting out
>> from a stop. Thanks
>>
>> On Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:42:44 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Canadian tire sells carb kits for them for about $20.00. The kit comes
>> >with a new needle and seat for the float and a new accelerator pump.
>> >
>> >A kit can do them wonders. Things like the pump do wear out.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> On Sat, 13 Dec 2003 11:03:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >Normally when I see a disconnected canister, that means the purge valve
>> >> >went bad.
>> >> >
>> >> >I noticed you mention you have it hooked up now. I would recommend you
>> >> >test it.
>> >> >
>> >> >If blown, the canister purge valve will effectively shut down the PCV
>> >> >system and cause lots of oil to spit into the air filter. It will also
>> >> >make the idle rough and erratic.
>> >> Yup it sure was the idle had picked up 100 or so RPM and it had that
>> >> little bit of a stumble showing up when idling.
>> >> >
>> >> >To test it have the engine running at idle and pinch the line from the
>> >> >canister to the PCV line closed. If the idle changes, the canister is
>> >> >dead.
>> >> >
>> >> >The canister is only supposed to be purging when the engine is hot and
>> >> >at speed. The purge signal is a ported vacuum source routed through the
>> >> >CTO valve.
>> >> >
>> >> >The canister also has an air filter on the bottom. CT sells them for
>> >> >about two bucks. Getting the first one out is a bear, it will need to
>> >> >be dug out with a screwdriver or hammer and chisel like mine. The new
>> >> >one just tucks back in.
>> >> I will just go and get a whole new canister ..... :)
>> >> >
>> >> >You really don't want the EGR to open until the engine is 'really'
>> >> >warmed up. That TVS holds the EGR closed until the air filter has
>> >> >warmed up enough.
>> >> I took it off today and it is packed up solid I'm waiting for a new
>> >> one to come in and if I have to I will visit the local Pick Your Part
>> >> and grab a TVS.
>> >> >
>> >> >Maybe ask CT about one from a 91 YJ? Or one from a 86 CJ7? These both
>> >> >have the 4.2 engine.
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> Now that I have had a chance to drive it since doing the Nutter and
>> >> adjusting the idle screws I do notice a slight stumble went I start
>> >> out from a stop...... What could be causing this?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks as always.
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I have really started to get interested in this beast of a vehicle and
>> >> >> the numberous vacuum lines etc and with this I'm starting to notice a
>> >> >> lot of potential problems.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 1.) My vehicle stinks like gas when in the garage and I know there are
>> >> >> no leaks so I can assume that the evap canister is plugged? Or is it
>> >> >> possible it is not purging and is just sitting there full of gas?
>> >> >> If it isn't purging could it be a faulty CTO valve?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 2.) Looking at a diagram of vac / vapour line routing for a YJ I see
>> >> >> that the PCV valve should be tee'd over to the evap cannister. On my
>> >> >> routing I can follow the PCV vent line (located at front end of valve
>> >> >> cover) directly to the carb (No tee to evap cannister)
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 3.) I also have a broken nipple on the TVS valve so I imagine this is
>> >> >> one of the reasons why the EGR valve is not moving. Could I bypass the
>> >> >> TVS valve and have the EGR function all the time? I went to 3 places 2
>> >> >> of them didn't know what the TVS valve was and Canuck Tire said the
>> >> >> part was discontinued.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks

 

Thanks Mike and everyone else who responded to my pleas for help, I
sure understand the workings of this vehicle a hell of a lot better
than I did a week ago. It was such a treat today to take it for an
extended run on the highway (first day back to work) it feels great to
run through the gears and have steady acceleration and no ******* at
3000 rpm which seemed to be about all it would rev before. Yesterday I
took out the EGR valve and after looking at it for a bit realised that
I was missing a hole somewhere, the exhaust inlet was coked over
smooth, I priced a new EGR and found that it was a $150 Cdn hit. I
went home and decided to try and clean it out and it seems to be
working fine now. The TVS switch I couldn't find at the parts places
is used in Ford vehicles also so I did manage to find a new switch.
The vehicle use to sound like it was running hot before and now I just
get the normal contraction noises that I would expect when I shut it
down, that leads me to believe that the EGR is doing what it should.

I have 6 days off coming up and I plan to go to the local Pick Your
Part and get myself an HEI GM distributor and beef up the ignition
system. I know that some folks say the TFI Ford is a slightly better
mod but hell the vehicle has 297,000 Km's on it. I also decided to go
the GM route as I can find more pages with info on the mod and GM
parts are very easy to find. I will take some pics of the project and
let you know how I make out.

Thanks again.


On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 10:09:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>800 is closer to what it should be. I try and keep mine between 750 and
>850 rpm.
>
>If the canister purge valve is bad, it lowers the manifold vacuum at
>idle which also can make a stumble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Mike this is a new carb but I guess that doesn't mean it was set up
>> correct from the factory, I did have the idle very low ( I was
>> marvelling at how well it idles with the computer out of the loop) and
>> since that time I have bumped it up to about 800 rpm from about 500 or
>> 600 rpm. That seems to have solved the minor stutter when starting out
>> from a stop. Thanks
>>
>> On Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:42:44 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Canadian tire sells carb kits for them for about $20.00. The kit comes
>> >with a new needle and seat for the float and a new accelerator pump.
>> >
>> >A kit can do them wonders. Things like the pump do wear out.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> On Sat, 13 Dec 2003 11:03:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >Normally when I see a disconnected canister, that means the purge valve
>> >> >went bad.
>> >> >
>> >> >I noticed you mention you have it hooked up now. I would recommend you
>> >> >test it.
>> >> >
>> >> >If blown, the canister purge valve will effectively shut down the PCV
>> >> >system and cause lots of oil to spit into the air filter. It will also
>> >> >make the idle rough and erratic.
>> >> Yup it sure was the idle had picked up 100 or so RPM and it had that
>> >> little bit of a stumble showing up when idling.
>> >> >
>> >> >To test it have the engine running at idle and pinch the line from the
>> >> >canister to the PCV line closed. If the idle changes, the canister is
>> >> >dead.
>> >> >
>> >> >The canister is only supposed to be purging when the engine is hot and
>> >> >at speed. The purge signal is a ported vacuum source routed through the
>> >> >CTO valve.
>> >> >
>> >> >The canister also has an air filter on the bottom. CT sells them for
>> >> >about two bucks. Getting the first one out is a bear, it will need to
>> >> >be dug out with a screwdriver or hammer and chisel like mine. The new
>> >> >one just tucks back in.
>> >> I will just go and get a whole new canister ..... :)
>> >> >
>> >> >You really don't want the EGR to open until the engine is 'really'
>> >> >warmed up. That TVS holds the EGR closed until the air filter has
>> >> >warmed up enough.
>> >> I took it off today and it is packed up solid I'm waiting for a new
>> >> one to come in and if I have to I will visit the local Pick Your Part
>> >> and grab a TVS.
>> >> >
>> >> >Maybe ask CT about one from a 91 YJ? Or one from a 86 CJ7? These both
>> >> >have the 4.2 engine.
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> Now that I have had a chance to drive it since doing the Nutter and
>> >> adjusting the idle screws I do notice a slight stumble went I start
>> >> out from a stop...... What could be causing this?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks as always.
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I have really started to get interested in this beast of a vehicle and
>> >> >> the numberous vacuum lines etc and with this I'm starting to notice a
>> >> >> lot of potential problems.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 1.) My vehicle stinks like gas when in the garage and I know there are
>> >> >> no leaks so I can assume that the evap canister is plugged? Or is it
>> >> >> possible it is not purging and is just sitting there full of gas?
>> >> >> If it isn't purging could it be a faulty CTO valve?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 2.) Looking at a diagram of vac / vapour line routing for a YJ I see
>> >> >> that the PCV valve should be tee'd over to the evap cannister. On my
>> >> >> routing I can follow the PCV vent line (located at front end of valve
>> >> >> cover) directly to the carb (No tee to evap cannister)
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 3.) I also have a broken nipple on the TVS valve so I imagine this is
>> >> >> one of the reasons why the EGR valve is not moving. Could I bypass the
>> >> >> TVS valve and have the EGR function all the time? I went to 3 places 2
>> >> >> of them didn't know what the TVS valve was and Canuck Tire said the
>> >> >> part was discontinued.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks