Carlo

I always put water in first in case of leaks. After I run it for a very
short while & no leaks, I put in the antifreeze - friendlier to the earth &
(more important) friendlier to my wallet. don't know about the "nook &
cranny" thing.

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2gr3k9F5onknU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Well, the R&R place 'should' have done the brake in procedure you're
> speaking about. I gave them an outline from the machine shop and when I
> questioned them about it they said they did it. However, one point I
found
> they did not do was to NOT put coolant into the radiator water for the
first
> 50 miles. I asked the machine shop about this and he said (if I
understand
> correctly) that he wanted water to go to every nook and cranny in the
engine
> and that with coolant in the water it would be less likely for that to
> happen. After the first 50 miles go ahead and put coolant. I'm going to
> double check with him on the reasons when I see him again but that's how I
> understand it.
>
> Anyway, when I reviewed the R&R work before they were done I saw they put
> coolant in. I again showed them the outline the machinist gave me which I
> gave a copy from the git-go and they replied, strange, and took the
coolant
> out.
>
> I think they had broken in many engines and just followed their method
> without looking at the outline given to them.
>
> The 'vibration' is felt only at idle. When I drive it I don't feel it.
> Plus, I still have drive shaft vibration from the lift kit so at about 40
> mph I get vibration from the drive shaft which is different from what I'm
> talking about.
>
> This engine was balanced with both the flywheel and clutch plate and
> harmonic balancer as I understand it.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:dZVpc.4745$oQ6.4009@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > The best way to break in an engine is to drive it under moderate
throttle
> > conditions for about the first 500 miles or so. Do this with varying
> engine
> > speeds. Don't take a 500 mile highway trip at 65mph in other words.
Avoid
> > towing and do not overheat the engine. Watch the coolant and oil levels
> > closely to avoid running either one low, and to check for fluids where
> they
> > don't belong. After that, change the oil and drive it as you normally
> would.
> > Also, if the camshaft is new, you normally run the engine for 20 minutes
> or
> > so with the engine varying from 1500 to 3000 RPM under no load. Too late
> for
> > you to do this now, but you should be ok there. You didn't go out and
beat
> > the hell out of it.
> >
> > Moly rings are slightly porous on the surface and you may see a small
> amount
> > of oil consumption, but it shouldn't be excessive once the rings are
> > properly seated. If the honing was done properly, the moly rings will
seat
> > quicker than the cast rings. Cylinders for moly rings are honed with a
> finer
> > stone than cast rings.
> >
> > As far as the vibration, check it out as you are driving to see if if
> > disappears in a certain RPM range, or gets worse. I wouldn't worry about
> it
> > until the engine is properly timed and the fuel injection is confirmed
> > working properly. One bad injector, or anything else that causes the
> > cylinder to slightly misfire can be felt as a vibration.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2gqmlfF5nbsmU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > Chris and all,
> > >
> > > I've never broken in an engine before. What can I expect? Will the
> > engine
> > > feel different at different mileage? What mileage can I say it's
truly
> > > broken in and the parts are 'harmonized'?
> > >
> > > Right now there's a feeling of vibration at idle and I'm wondering if
> it's
> > > normal and later these things will go away.
> > >
> > >
> > > BTW, the engine rebuilder told me he used molly rings and to expect
> > loosing
> > > oil between every oil change as the molly rings are porous and so
there
> > will
> > > be some burning of oil.
> > >
> > > Comments?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > > news:FeVpc.4741$oQ6.3464@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced
> the
> > > > > distributor.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> > > > >
> > > > > What do you think about this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > They look pretty damn good Bill. Except you count backwards! ;)
> > > >
> > > > Seriously, the plugs look fine, but run it a bit more and check it
out
> > > > again. If Mike is right about you having a bad injector, I'd hate to
> see
> > > it
> > > > mess up your new engine. It still might be a good idea to have the
> > > injectors
> > > > flow and impedance tested to make sure they are performing properly.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Carlo

I always put water in first in case of leaks. After I run it for a very
short while & no leaks, I put in the antifreeze - friendlier to the earth &
(more important) friendlier to my wallet. don't know about the "nook &
cranny" thing.

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2gr3k9F5onknU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Well, the R&R place 'should' have done the brake in procedure you're
> speaking about. I gave them an outline from the machine shop and when I
> questioned them about it they said they did it. However, one point I
found
> they did not do was to NOT put coolant into the radiator water for the
first
> 50 miles. I asked the machine shop about this and he said (if I
understand
> correctly) that he wanted water to go to every nook and cranny in the
engine
> and that with coolant in the water it would be less likely for that to
> happen. After the first 50 miles go ahead and put coolant. I'm going to
> double check with him on the reasons when I see him again but that's how I
> understand it.
>
> Anyway, when I reviewed the R&R work before they were done I saw they put
> coolant in. I again showed them the outline the machinist gave me which I
> gave a copy from the git-go and they replied, strange, and took the
coolant
> out.
>
> I think they had broken in many engines and just followed their method
> without looking at the outline given to them.
>
> The 'vibration' is felt only at idle. When I drive it I don't feel it.
> Plus, I still have drive shaft vibration from the lift kit so at about 40
> mph I get vibration from the drive shaft which is different from what I'm
> talking about.
>
> This engine was balanced with both the flywheel and clutch plate and
> harmonic balancer as I understand it.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:dZVpc.4745$oQ6.4009@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > The best way to break in an engine is to drive it under moderate
throttle
> > conditions for about the first 500 miles or so. Do this with varying
> engine
> > speeds. Don't take a 500 mile highway trip at 65mph in other words.
Avoid
> > towing and do not overheat the engine. Watch the coolant and oil levels
> > closely to avoid running either one low, and to check for fluids where
> they
> > don't belong. After that, change the oil and drive it as you normally
> would.
> > Also, if the camshaft is new, you normally run the engine for 20 minutes
> or
> > so with the engine varying from 1500 to 3000 RPM under no load. Too late
> for
> > you to do this now, but you should be ok there. You didn't go out and
beat
> > the hell out of it.
> >
> > Moly rings are slightly porous on the surface and you may see a small
> amount
> > of oil consumption, but it shouldn't be excessive once the rings are
> > properly seated. If the honing was done properly, the moly rings will
seat
> > quicker than the cast rings. Cylinders for moly rings are honed with a
> finer
> > stone than cast rings.
> >
> > As far as the vibration, check it out as you are driving to see if if
> > disappears in a certain RPM range, or gets worse. I wouldn't worry about
> it
> > until the engine is properly timed and the fuel injection is confirmed
> > working properly. One bad injector, or anything else that causes the
> > cylinder to slightly misfire can be felt as a vibration.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2gqmlfF5nbsmU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > Chris and all,
> > >
> > > I've never broken in an engine before. What can I expect? Will the
> > engine
> > > feel different at different mileage? What mileage can I say it's
truly
> > > broken in and the parts are 'harmonized'?
> > >
> > > Right now there's a feeling of vibration at idle and I'm wondering if
> it's
> > > normal and later these things will go away.
> > >
> > >
> > > BTW, the engine rebuilder told me he used molly rings and to expect
> > loosing
> > > oil between every oil change as the molly rings are porous and so
there
> > will
> > > be some burning of oil.
> > >
> > > Comments?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > > news:FeVpc.4741$oQ6.3464@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced
> the
> > > > > distributor.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> > > > >
> > > > > What do you think about this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > They look pretty damn good Bill. Except you count backwards! ;)
> > > >
> > > > Seriously, the plugs look fine, but run it a bit more and check it
out
> > > > again. If Mike is right about you having a bad injector, I'd hate to
> see
> > > it
> > > > mess up your new engine. It still might be a good idea to have the
> > > injectors
> > > > flow and impedance tested to make sure they are performing properly.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Carlo

I always put water in first in case of leaks. After I run it for a very
short while & no leaks, I put in the antifreeze - friendlier to the earth &
(more important) friendlier to my wallet. don't know about the "nook &
cranny" thing.

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2gr3k9F5onknU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Well, the R&R place 'should' have done the brake in procedure you're
> speaking about. I gave them an outline from the machine shop and when I
> questioned them about it they said they did it. However, one point I
found
> they did not do was to NOT put coolant into the radiator water for the
first
> 50 miles. I asked the machine shop about this and he said (if I
understand
> correctly) that he wanted water to go to every nook and cranny in the
engine
> and that with coolant in the water it would be less likely for that to
> happen. After the first 50 miles go ahead and put coolant. I'm going to
> double check with him on the reasons when I see him again but that's how I
> understand it.
>
> Anyway, when I reviewed the R&R work before they were done I saw they put
> coolant in. I again showed them the outline the machinist gave me which I
> gave a copy from the git-go and they replied, strange, and took the
coolant
> out.
>
> I think they had broken in many engines and just followed their method
> without looking at the outline given to them.
>
> The 'vibration' is felt only at idle. When I drive it I don't feel it.
> Plus, I still have drive shaft vibration from the lift kit so at about 40
> mph I get vibration from the drive shaft which is different from what I'm
> talking about.
>
> This engine was balanced with both the flywheel and clutch plate and
> harmonic balancer as I understand it.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:dZVpc.4745$oQ6.4009@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > The best way to break in an engine is to drive it under moderate
throttle
> > conditions for about the first 500 miles or so. Do this with varying
> engine
> > speeds. Don't take a 500 mile highway trip at 65mph in other words.
Avoid
> > towing and do not overheat the engine. Watch the coolant and oil levels
> > closely to avoid running either one low, and to check for fluids where
> they
> > don't belong. After that, change the oil and drive it as you normally
> would.
> > Also, if the camshaft is new, you normally run the engine for 20 minutes
> or
> > so with the engine varying from 1500 to 3000 RPM under no load. Too late
> for
> > you to do this now, but you should be ok there. You didn't go out and
beat
> > the hell out of it.
> >
> > Moly rings are slightly porous on the surface and you may see a small
> amount
> > of oil consumption, but it shouldn't be excessive once the rings are
> > properly seated. If the honing was done properly, the moly rings will
seat
> > quicker than the cast rings. Cylinders for moly rings are honed with a
> finer
> > stone than cast rings.
> >
> > As far as the vibration, check it out as you are driving to see if if
> > disappears in a certain RPM range, or gets worse. I wouldn't worry about
> it
> > until the engine is properly timed and the fuel injection is confirmed
> > working properly. One bad injector, or anything else that causes the
> > cylinder to slightly misfire can be felt as a vibration.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2gqmlfF5nbsmU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > Chris and all,
> > >
> > > I've never broken in an engine before. What can I expect? Will the
> > engine
> > > feel different at different mileage? What mileage can I say it's
truly
> > > broken in and the parts are 'harmonized'?
> > >
> > > Right now there's a feeling of vibration at idle and I'm wondering if
> it's
> > > normal and later these things will go away.
> > >
> > >
> > > BTW, the engine rebuilder told me he used molly rings and to expect
> > loosing
> > > oil between every oil change as the molly rings are porous and so
there
> > will
> > > be some burning of oil.
> > >
> > > Comments?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > > news:FeVpc.4741$oQ6.3464@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced
> the
> > > > > distributor.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> > > > >
> > > > > What do you think about this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > They look pretty damn good Bill. Except you count backwards! ;)
> > > >
> > > > Seriously, the plugs look fine, but run it a bit more and check it
out
> > > > again. If Mike is right about you having a bad injector, I'd hate to
> see
> > > it
> > > > mess up your new engine. It still might be a good idea to have the
> > > injectors
> > > > flow and impedance tested to make sure they are performing properly.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

CRWLR

That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that
after 50,000 miles.

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues.




"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> distributor.
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
>
> What do you think about this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

CRWLR

That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that
after 50,000 miles.

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues.




"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> distributor.
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
>
> What do you think about this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

CRWLR

That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that
after 50,000 miles.

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues.




"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> distributor.
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
>
> What do you think about this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

CRWLR

That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that
after 50,000 miles.

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues.




"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> distributor.
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
>
> What do you think about this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

CRWLR

Never mind.

My plugs came out with much less brown on the tips, but I suppose that the
brown is not an indicator of trouble. They are all the same color, but the
ones to the back of the motor look a little darker to me.


IN A RELATED DEVELOPMENT
I took the plugs out of CRWLR, and the #3 plug is black and loading up.

You guys might remember that I wsas asking about a high speed miss that has
developed. The motor runs well at low speeds, normal city and rural road
driving, but misses after several minutes on the interstate. I was wondering
about what a floating valve might feel like. I have never had a valve float,
but if one did float, I think it should feel alot like what I am getting.
The black plug tends to support that I have something in the motor getting
ready to take a bye. .



"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10aia0us7e49bb7@corp.supernews.com...
> That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than
that
> after 50,000 miles.
>
> I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues.
>
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> > distributor.
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> >
> > What do you think about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>

CRWLR

Never mind.

My plugs came out with much less brown on the tips, but I suppose that the
brown is not an indicator of trouble. They are all the same color, but the
ones to the back of the motor look a little darker to me.


IN A RELATED DEVELOPMENT
I took the plugs out of CRWLR, and the #3 plug is black and loading up.

You guys might remember that I wsas asking about a high speed miss that has
developed. The motor runs well at low speeds, normal city and rural road
driving, but misses after several minutes on the interstate. I was wondering
about what a floating valve might feel like. I have never had a valve float,
but if one did float, I think it should feel alot like what I am getting.
The black plug tends to support that I have something in the motor getting
ready to take a bye. .



"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10aia0us7e49bb7@corp.supernews.com...
> That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than
that
> after 50,000 miles.
>
> I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues.
>
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> > distributor.
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> >
> > What do you think about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>

CRWLR

Never mind.

My plugs came out with much less brown on the tips, but I suppose that the
brown is not an indicator of trouble. They are all the same color, but the
ones to the back of the motor look a little darker to me.


IN A RELATED DEVELOPMENT
I took the plugs out of CRWLR, and the #3 plug is black and loading up.

You guys might remember that I wsas asking about a high speed miss that has
developed. The motor runs well at low speeds, normal city and rural road
driving, but misses after several minutes on the interstate. I was wondering
about what a floating valve might feel like. I have never had a valve float,
but if one did float, I think it should feel alot like what I am getting.
The black plug tends to support that I have something in the motor getting
ready to take a bye. .



"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10aia0us7e49bb7@corp.supernews.com...
> That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than
that
> after 50,000 miles.
>
> I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues.
>
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> > distributor.
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> >
> > What do you think about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>