Well, the R&R place 'should' have done the brake in procedure you're
speaking about. I gave them an outline from the machine shop and when I
questioned them about it they said they did it. However, one point I found
they did not do was to NOT put coolant into the radiator water for the first
50 miles. I asked the machine shop about this and he said (if I understand
correctly) that he wanted water to go to every nook and cranny in the engine
and that with coolant in the water it would be less likely for that to
happen. After the first 50 miles go ahead and put coolant. I'm going to
double check with him on the reasons when I see him again but that's how I
understand it.

Anyway, when I reviewed the R&R work before they were done I saw they put
coolant in. I again showed them the outline the machinist gave me which I
gave a copy from the git-go and they replied, strange, and took the coolant
out.

I think they had broken in many engines and just followed their method
without looking at the outline given to them.

The 'vibration' is felt only at idle. When I drive it I don't feel it.
Plus, I still have drive shaft vibration from the lift kit so at about 40
mph I get vibration from the drive shaft which is different from what I'm
talking about.

This engine was balanced with both the flywheel and clutch plate and
harmonic balancer as I understand it.

Bill



"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:dZVpc.4745$oQ6.4009@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> The best way to break in an engine is to drive it under moderate throttle
> conditions for about the first 500 miles or so. Do this with varying
engine
> speeds. Don't take a 500 mile highway trip at 65mph in other words. Avoid
> towing and do not overheat the engine. Watch the coolant and oil levels
> closely to avoid running either one low, and to check for fluids where
they
> don't belong. After that, change the oil and drive it as you normally
would.
> Also, if the camshaft is new, you normally run the engine for 20 minutes
or
> so with the engine varying from 1500 to 3000 RPM under no load. Too late
for
> you to do this now, but you should be ok there. You didn't go out and beat
> the hell out of it.
>
> Moly rings are slightly porous on the surface and you may see a small
amount
> of oil consumption, but it shouldn't be excessive once the rings are
> properly seated. If the honing was done properly, the moly rings will seat
> quicker than the cast rings. Cylinders for moly rings are honed with a
finer
> stone than cast rings.
>
> As far as the vibration, check it out as you are driving to see if if
> disappears in a certain RPM range, or gets worse. I wouldn't worry about
it
> until the engine is properly timed and the fuel injection is confirmed
> working properly. One bad injector, or anything else that causes the
> cylinder to slightly misfire can be felt as a vibration.
>
> Chris
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2gqmlfF5nbsmU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Chris and all,
> >
> > I've never broken in an engine before. What can I expect? Will the
> engine
> > feel different at different mileage? What mileage can I say it's truly
> > broken in and the parts are 'harmonized'?
> >
> > Right now there's a feeling of vibration at idle and I'm wondering if
it's
> > normal and later these things will go away.
> >
> >
> > BTW, the engine rebuilder told me he used molly rings and to expect
> loosing
> > oil between every oil change as the molly rings are porous and so there
> will
> > be some burning of oil.
> >
> > Comments?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:FeVpc.4741$oQ6.3464@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > >
> > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced
the
> > > > distributor.
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> > > >
> > > > What do you think about this?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > >
> > > They look pretty damn good Bill. Except you count backwards! ;)
> > >
> > > Seriously, the plugs look fine, but run it a bit more and check it out
> > > again. If Mike is right about you having a bad injector, I'd hate to
see
> > it
> > > mess up your new engine. It still might be a good idea to have the
> > injectors
> > > flow and impedance tested to make sure they are performing properly.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

They sure aren't doing too bad. Like the others say check again and/or
it would still be a good time to make sure on those injectors.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> distributor.
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
>
> What do you think about this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

 

They sure aren't doing too bad. Like the others say check again and/or
it would still be a good time to make sure on those injectors.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> distributor.
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
>
> What do you think about this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

 

They sure aren't doing too bad. Like the others say check again and/or
it would still be a good time to make sure on those injectors.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> distributor.
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
>
> What do you think about this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

 

They sure aren't doing too bad. Like the others say check again and/or
it would still be a good time to make sure on those injectors.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> distributor.
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
>
> What do you think about this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

 

Right, I'm definitely going to keep an eye on the plugs and I'm definitely
not going to forgo checking those injectors out for sure.

I'm going to take it to a local jeep shop for checkup ASAP.

Thanks for the input.

Bill

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40A8D403.D96D45E5@sympatico.ca...
> They sure aren't doing too bad. Like the others say check again and/or
> it would still be a good time to make sure on those injectors.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> > distributor.
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> >
> > What do you think about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

 

Right, I'm definitely going to keep an eye on the plugs and I'm definitely
not going to forgo checking those injectors out for sure.

I'm going to take it to a local jeep shop for checkup ASAP.

Thanks for the input.

Bill

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40A8D403.D96D45E5@sympatico.ca...
> They sure aren't doing too bad. Like the others say check again and/or
> it would still be a good time to make sure on those injectors.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> > distributor.
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> >
> > What do you think about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

 

Right, I'm definitely going to keep an eye on the plugs and I'm definitely
not going to forgo checking those injectors out for sure.

I'm going to take it to a local jeep shop for checkup ASAP.

Thanks for the input.

Bill

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40A8D403.D96D45E5@sympatico.ca...
> They sure aren't doing too bad. Like the others say check again and/or
> it would still be a good time to make sure on those injectors.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> > distributor.
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> >
> > What do you think about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

 

Right, I'm definitely going to keep an eye on the plugs and I'm definitely
not going to forgo checking those injectors out for sure.

I'm going to take it to a local jeep shop for checkup ASAP.

Thanks for the input.

Bill

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40A8D403.D96D45E5@sympatico.ca...
> They sure aren't doing too bad. Like the others say check again and/or
> it would still be a good time to make sure on those injectors.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the
> > distributor.
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> >
> > What do you think about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill

 

I always put water in first in case of leaks. After I run it for a very
short while & no leaks, I put in the antifreeze - friendlier to the earth &
(more important) friendlier to my wallet. don't know about the "nook &
cranny" thing.

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2gr3k9F5onknU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Well, the R&R place 'should' have done the brake in procedure you're
> speaking about. I gave them an outline from the machine shop and when I
> questioned them about it they said they did it. However, one point I
found
> they did not do was to NOT put coolant into the radiator water for the
first
> 50 miles. I asked the machine shop about this and he said (if I
understand
> correctly) that he wanted water to go to every nook and cranny in the
engine
> and that with coolant in the water it would be less likely for that to
> happen. After the first 50 miles go ahead and put coolant. I'm going to
> double check with him on the reasons when I see him again but that's how I
> understand it.
>
> Anyway, when I reviewed the R&R work before they were done I saw they put
> coolant in. I again showed them the outline the machinist gave me which I
> gave a copy from the git-go and they replied, strange, and took the
coolant
> out.
>
> I think they had broken in many engines and just followed their method
> without looking at the outline given to them.
>
> The 'vibration' is felt only at idle. When I drive it I don't feel it.
> Plus, I still have drive shaft vibration from the lift kit so at about 40
> mph I get vibration from the drive shaft which is different from what I'm
> talking about.
>
> This engine was balanced with both the flywheel and clutch plate and
> harmonic balancer as I understand it.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:dZVpc.4745$oQ6.4009@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > The best way to break in an engine is to drive it under moderate
throttle
> > conditions for about the first 500 miles or so. Do this with varying
> engine
> > speeds. Don't take a 500 mile highway trip at 65mph in other words.
Avoid
> > towing and do not overheat the engine. Watch the coolant and oil levels
> > closely to avoid running either one low, and to check for fluids where
> they
> > don't belong. After that, change the oil and drive it as you normally
> would.
> > Also, if the camshaft is new, you normally run the engine for 20 minutes
> or
> > so with the engine varying from 1500 to 3000 RPM under no load. Too late
> for
> > you to do this now, but you should be ok there. You didn't go out and
beat
> > the hell out of it.
> >
> > Moly rings are slightly porous on the surface and you may see a small
> amount
> > of oil consumption, but it shouldn't be excessive once the rings are
> > properly seated. If the honing was done properly, the moly rings will
seat
> > quicker than the cast rings. Cylinders for moly rings are honed with a
> finer
> > stone than cast rings.
> >
> > As far as the vibration, check it out as you are driving to see if if
> > disappears in a certain RPM range, or gets worse. I wouldn't worry about
> it
> > until the engine is properly timed and the fuel injection is confirmed
> > working properly. One bad injector, or anything else that causes the
> > cylinder to slightly misfire can be felt as a vibration.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2gqmlfF5nbsmU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > Chris and all,
> > >
> > > I've never broken in an engine before. What can I expect? Will the
> > engine
> > > feel different at different mileage? What mileage can I say it's
truly
> > > broken in and the parts are 'harmonized'?
> > >
> > > Right now there's a feeling of vibration at idle and I'm wondering if
> it's
> > > normal and later these things will go away.
> > >
> > >
> > > BTW, the engine rebuilder told me he used molly rings and to expect
> > loosing
> > > oil between every oil change as the molly rings are porous and so
there
> > will
> > > be some burning of oil.
> > >
> > > Comments?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > > news:FeVpc.4741$oQ6.3464@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced
> the
> > > > > distributor.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg
> > > > >
> > > > > What do you think about this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > They look pretty damn good Bill. Except you count backwards! ;)
> > > >
> > > > Seriously, the plugs look fine, but run it a bit more and check it
out
> > > > again. If Mike is right about you having a bad injector, I'd hate to
> see
> > > it
> > > > mess up your new engine. It still might be a good idea to have the
> > > injectors
> > > > flow and impedance tested to make sure they are performing properly.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>