Understood (my thinking was that above average current would over heat the
alternator and if sustained would not be quite what the designers had
designed for).

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400D42C5.3069414A@sympatico.ca...
> Correct. Stock my Jeep does have a solenoid for an automatic or AC
> system to bump the idle under load, but this unit isn't hooked up with a
> 5 speed no AC.
>
> One person from here suggested adding my own power switch to the
> solenoid to fire up a custom fast idle. I think it is a good idea and
> just dug my old solenoid out of the spare parts bin. This is on the
> Carter BBD carb.
>
> An alternator can handle heavy duty charging, like after a dead battery
> and you need a boost to get going, but it does cause faster wear.
>
> A 'new' alternator cannot handle heavy duty charging. The brushes will
> arc out before they conform to the slip ring shape potentially
> destroying the alternator.
>
> So the battery should be fully charged before adding a 'new' or rebuilt
> alternator.
>
> I did manage to wear out my 1986 alternator pretty fast after getting
> the winch, but it had 155K miles on it. I now have a new one with a 5
> year warranty. But just to be sure, I bought a rebuild kit for my
> alternator ($20.00) to keep in my trail box in case I fry it way out in
> the middle of nowhere.
>
> Mike
>
> bowgus wrote:
> >
> > Gotcha ... so the hard working alternator loads the engine considerably
and
> > unlike some loads ... e.g., ac ... the onboard electronics does not
increase
> > the idle to compensate. Now I've read ... probably here ... that an
> > alternator is designed to keep a battery topped up, not to do any heavy
duty
> > charging. So a question about the winching and so on ... do you find
> > yourself replacing/repairing your alternator more often than seems
normal?
> > Just interested ... relates to recharging deep cycles after a day at the
> > lake.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:400C2379.54E3EE02@sympatico.ca...
> > > I go by my volt gauge which isn't really accurate, but at idle the
> > > voltage is a bit lower than at speed, especially under load. It will
> > > also load the engine down so the rpm drops.
> > >
> > > I am not sure at what rpm the alternator on my CJ7 peaks though. I
have
> > > the GM alternator with the internal regulator.
> > >
> > > I just don't want it to stall out when winching and at base idle, it
is
> > > getting close to wanting to stall.
> > >
> > > Even if I only tag the fast idle at 1200 rpm on the first it has no
> > > issues.
> > >
> > > Same goes for boosting someone.
> > >
> > > I had to do an extended boost last weekend in -30C temps and on
regular
> > > idle it wanted to stall or chug out. The other Jeep has issues and
was
> > > drawing a lot of amps. I bumped it up to 1200 and had no issues.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > bowgus wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hiya Mike ... question about the alternator "really putting out". My
> > > > understanding, the benefit of an alternator over the old generator
is
> > that
> > > > rpm doesn't matter so much with an alternator (and I'll go look into
> > > > myself).
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> > > > > electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like
it is
> > > > > just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
> > > > >
> > > > > The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on
the
> > > > > second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
> > > > >
> > > > > The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate
so
> > the
> > > > > cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull
off
> > > > > when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the
> > choke
> > > > > is open and it goes off.
> > > > >
> > > > > To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor
as
> > you
> > > > > pull on the choke.
> > > > >
> > > > > If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to
clean
> > it
> > > > > out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on
it.
> > > > > Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop
> > free.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as
a
> > > > > manual throttle as well as a choke.
> > > > >
> > > > > When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then
pull
> > > > > the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off
quickly.
> > > > > This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm
so
> > > > > the alternator is really putting out.
> > > > >
> > > > > To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and
the
> > > > > fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until
> > moved.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > aGraham wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a
> > manual
> > > > > > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the
electric
> > > > > > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is
> > that IF
> > > > > > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back
to
> > low
> > > > > > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to
turn
> > off,
> > > > > > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I
> > currently
> > > > > > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm
up
> > in
> > > > > > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > o_o_o_o
> > > > > > /| ,[_____],
> > > > > > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > > > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

 

Understood (my thinking was that above average current would over heat the
alternator and if sustained would not be quite what the designers had
designed for).

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400D42C5.3069414A@sympatico.ca...
> Correct. Stock my Jeep does have a solenoid for an automatic or AC
> system to bump the idle under load, but this unit isn't hooked up with a
> 5 speed no AC.
>
> One person from here suggested adding my own power switch to the
> solenoid to fire up a custom fast idle. I think it is a good idea and
> just dug my old solenoid out of the spare parts bin. This is on the
> Carter BBD carb.
>
> An alternator can handle heavy duty charging, like after a dead battery
> and you need a boost to get going, but it does cause faster wear.
>
> A 'new' alternator cannot handle heavy duty charging. The brushes will
> arc out before they conform to the slip ring shape potentially
> destroying the alternator.
>
> So the battery should be fully charged before adding a 'new' or rebuilt
> alternator.
>
> I did manage to wear out my 1986 alternator pretty fast after getting
> the winch, but it had 155K miles on it. I now have a new one with a 5
> year warranty. But just to be sure, I bought a rebuild kit for my
> alternator ($20.00) to keep in my trail box in case I fry it way out in
> the middle of nowhere.
>
> Mike
>
> bowgus wrote:
> >
> > Gotcha ... so the hard working alternator loads the engine considerably
and
> > unlike some loads ... e.g., ac ... the onboard electronics does not
increase
> > the idle to compensate. Now I've read ... probably here ... that an
> > alternator is designed to keep a battery topped up, not to do any heavy
duty
> > charging. So a question about the winching and so on ... do you find
> > yourself replacing/repairing your alternator more often than seems
normal?
> > Just interested ... relates to recharging deep cycles after a day at the
> > lake.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:400C2379.54E3EE02@sympatico.ca...
> > > I go by my volt gauge which isn't really accurate, but at idle the
> > > voltage is a bit lower than at speed, especially under load. It will
> > > also load the engine down so the rpm drops.
> > >
> > > I am not sure at what rpm the alternator on my CJ7 peaks though. I
have
> > > the GM alternator with the internal regulator.
> > >
> > > I just don't want it to stall out when winching and at base idle, it
is
> > > getting close to wanting to stall.
> > >
> > > Even if I only tag the fast idle at 1200 rpm on the first it has no
> > > issues.
> > >
> > > Same goes for boosting someone.
> > >
> > > I had to do an extended boost last weekend in -30C temps and on
regular
> > > idle it wanted to stall or chug out. The other Jeep has issues and
was
> > > drawing a lot of amps. I bumped it up to 1200 and had no issues.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > bowgus wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hiya Mike ... question about the alternator "really putting out". My
> > > > understanding, the benefit of an alternator over the old generator
is
> > that
> > > > rpm doesn't matter so much with an alternator (and I'll go look into
> > > > myself).
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> > > > > electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like
it is
> > > > > just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
> > > > >
> > > > > The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on
the
> > > > > second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
> > > > >
> > > > > The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate
so
> > the
> > > > > cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull
off
> > > > > when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the
> > choke
> > > > > is open and it goes off.
> > > > >
> > > > > To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor
as
> > you
> > > > > pull on the choke.
> > > > >
> > > > > If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to
clean
> > it
> > > > > out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on
it.
> > > > > Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop
> > free.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as
a
> > > > > manual throttle as well as a choke.
> > > > >
> > > > > When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then
pull
> > > > > the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off
quickly.
> > > > > This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm
so
> > > > > the alternator is really putting out.
> > > > >
> > > > > To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and
the
> > > > > fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until
> > moved.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > aGraham wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a
> > manual
> > > > > > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the
electric
> > > > > > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is
> > that IF
> > > > > > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back
to
> > low
> > > > > > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to
turn
> > off,
> > > > > > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I
> > currently
> > > > > > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm
up
> > in
> > > > > > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > o_o_o_o
> > > > > > /| ,[_____],
> > > > > > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > > > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)