Well that beats my wed morning episode, took an hour and a half to get home
from work due to the idiots who are too stupid to slow down in the rain/
freezing rain and I only live about 20 - 30 miles from work normally a 20
min drive or so.
Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
skins on the drives rocker panel.

Snow...

"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:_ZCdnWCLBaVgLjrcRVn-3g@rogers.com...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41A7A19A.FDC2130A@sympatico.ca...
> : So here I am driving down the main drag in Toronto and hear/feel a
> : strange thump then scraping. Crap I think, there goes the muffler or
> : tailpipe or something. Not loud, hmmm... I pull over and walk back
> : looking at the guy behind me laughing and there is my frame crossmember
> : and stainless bumperette loops laying on the ground..... There was a
> : left over piece if string I used to tie something once holding it on.
> :
>
> And I thought I had a bad day...
> Wed. morning driving home from work at 4 AM I feel my l/f brake grinding
on
> my van... it had been squealing for a week so I had the forethought to buy
> the parts (thanks Napa for the 40% off 'dealer discount'). So I get home
and
> it's pretty mild 6*C (42F) and I figure I'll get it done before I go to
bed.
> Jump out of the van and I hear hissing, my r/r tire is going down.
>
> I go to move my XJ so I can pull the van up to the garage, dead battery.
> Throw the charger on the XJ and drag the floor jack to the end of the
> driveway to the van.
>
> I get to the point of no return in the brake job, calliper off, brake line
> off, rotor off and I feel a very cold rain drop on the back of my neck.
> ^#$%$!!!!
>
> The temp. dropped quick! I re-packed the bearings in slow motion waiting
for
> the rain to let up... no such luck. By 5:30 AM, my wife was standing over
me
> with an umbrella while I reassembled the brakes. Bled them and went to
> bed... maybe it will stop raining by the time I get up to change the
tire...
> nope. Waited until the last possible moment before work to change it.....
> lower the spare down from underneath the van and the hanger is rusted to
the
> friggin' rim. &%$%$%$!!!!
>
> Went into work soaked... by the time I dried off, I had to get out of the
> truck again to get soaked... this happed four more times (rinse and
> repeat?). Get back to the yard only to find I left the interior lights on
in
> the van. It won't start. Waited for the day shift to come in to get a
> boost... in the rain.
>
> -Brian
>
>

 

Well that beats my wed morning episode, took an hour and a half to get home
from work due to the idiots who are too stupid to slow down in the rain/
freezing rain and I only live about 20 - 30 miles from work normally a 20
min drive or so.
Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
skins on the drives rocker panel.

Snow...

"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:_ZCdnWCLBaVgLjrcRVn-3g@rogers.com...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41A7A19A.FDC2130A@sympatico.ca...
> : So here I am driving down the main drag in Toronto and hear/feel a
> : strange thump then scraping. Crap I think, there goes the muffler or
> : tailpipe or something. Not loud, hmmm... I pull over and walk back
> : looking at the guy behind me laughing and there is my frame crossmember
> : and stainless bumperette loops laying on the ground..... There was a
> : left over piece if string I used to tie something once holding it on.
> :
>
> And I thought I had a bad day...
> Wed. morning driving home from work at 4 AM I feel my l/f brake grinding
on
> my van... it had been squealing for a week so I had the forethought to buy
> the parts (thanks Napa for the 40% off 'dealer discount'). So I get home
and
> it's pretty mild 6*C (42F) and I figure I'll get it done before I go to
bed.
> Jump out of the van and I hear hissing, my r/r tire is going down.
>
> I go to move my XJ so I can pull the van up to the garage, dead battery.
> Throw the charger on the XJ and drag the floor jack to the end of the
> driveway to the van.
>
> I get to the point of no return in the brake job, calliper off, brake line
> off, rotor off and I feel a very cold rain drop on the back of my neck.
> ^#$%$!!!!
>
> The temp. dropped quick! I re-packed the bearings in slow motion waiting
for
> the rain to let up... no such luck. By 5:30 AM, my wife was standing over
me
> with an umbrella while I reassembled the brakes. Bled them and went to
> bed... maybe it will stop raining by the time I get up to change the
tire...
> nope. Waited until the last possible moment before work to change it.....
> lower the spare down from underneath the van and the hanger is rusted to
the
> friggin' rim. &%$%$%$!!!!
>
> Went into work soaked... by the time I dried off, I had to get out of the
> truck again to get soaked... this happed four more times (rinse and
> repeat?). Get back to the yard only to find I left the interior lights on
in
> the van. It won't start. Waited for the day shift to come in to get a
> boost... in the rain.
>
> -Brian
>
>

 

"Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
: Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
: skins on the drives rocker panel.
:
: Snow...
:
I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.

I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.

-Brian

 

"Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
: Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
: skins on the drives rocker panel.
:
: Snow...
:
I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.

I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.

-Brian

 

"Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
: Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
: skins on the drives rocker panel.
:
: Snow...
:
I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.

I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.

-Brian

 

Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
>
> -Brian

Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
slush..

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
>
> -Brian

Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
slush..

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
>
> -Brian

Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
slush..

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

I got lucky and rust did in another Jeep at 40K. It literally broke in
half I was told so it got parted out. I paid $400.00 for the long
block. This Jeep was so rusty, the oil pan on the engine was a spider
web pin cushion. I had to use my pan. LOL!

Last time I checked, Chrysler Canada was offering 258 short blocks for
$1200.00, $1500.00 with the head.

I have a tree in my driveway that my come-a-long hooks up to to swap
engines or I can rent an engine hoist for a half day and fifty bucks.
The engines are easy to swap out.

That $75.00 rubber valve cover gasket is the biggest rip off I have ever
seen! I got a new valve cover and bought that stupid thing thinking it
should be better. I was pouring oil out in 2 weeks.

My valve cover only has the two center rocker nuts holding it on, the
head isn't tapped for perimeter bolts and has been leak free for almost
4 years. I made it super clean on the mating surfaces first with an
acetone wipe down or maybe I used BBQ lighter fluid last time, don't
remember, but it has to be spotless. Even one fingerprint will wreck
the seal. I then gave the head surface a skim of permatex 'ultra' black
RTV, added the cork gasket, another skim of RTV on top of the cork and
added my plastic cover and torqued the two nuts to 15 inch pounds I
think it was.

Then comes the most important part! I let it sit without even breathing
on it for 24 hours like the directions say to let it properly 'cure'.

No leaks.

The PCV 'blowby' usually can be fixed easy. It is normally a failure in
the emissions crap.

I first trace the PCV line to the back of the carb. At the back part of
valve cover there is a real rubber elbow that goes jelly from oil and
collapses. If soft, replace it. Then behind the carb is a solenoid
thing. It was a defective part and should be replaced with a T
fitting. Then off this T a line goes to the charcoal canister. At idle
pinch this line to the canister closed. If the idle changes, the
canister purge valve is shot or the plumbing is wrong. The canister
should only purge when at speed and hot via a ported vacuum signal and
the CTO valve.

Mike

Greg wrote:
>
> Hey Mike, were did you get and how much for the engine, if I don't do
> something pretty quick I will have to hook my PCV lines up to the oil filler
> cap to keep oil recirculating :) New valve cover gasket only lasted about
> 1000 Km, gone again, at $75.00 Can. for it I don't want to put another on
> this engine, but like you I like and have decided to go with the 258, torque
> is unbelevable. Got a price from Canada engines, $1425.00 for rebuilt,
> $800.00 install, $130.00 misc. parts, be 3 grand by the time taxes were on.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41A8BDC2.2621BE27@sympatico.ca...
> > It took me about a year and a half in my driveway to do mine. I
> > stripped the frame and used rust converter first, then put rubber coat
> > on it.
> >
> > Unfortunately it was too little too late, the damage was done and my off
> > roading and swamp twisting has caused it to snap in 3 places in the last
> > year, now the end is toast. I will patch it up, but really need a new
> > frame. I have gotten 4 years out of it, could use another one or two
> > hopefully.
> >
> > I also debated engines and decided I liked the power and mileage the 258
> > gave me, so I stayed with it. Got a factory one with 40K on it and have
> > mine sitting around waiting for a refresh job.
> >
> > I am manually tuned up and mine just flies with that engine. I can
> > climb sand pit walls at 400 rpm without stalling and 4th will bury the
> > speedo.
> >
> > 350's suck gas. I get 11L/100km.
> >
> > The 'glass body is 'really' light eh. There is a gent here in Ontario
> > that makes sweet ones for a good price. All the metal parts, my front
> > Laredo chrome grill, the windshield, hard doors, top fit on like a
> > glove.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > griffin wrote:
> >>
> >> When you decide to do a frame job, you should drive down here and do mine
> >> at
> >> the same time. ;p Mine's no where near that bad but when I was taking my
> >> rear seat out I took a good look at the frame rails and all the common
> >> "spots" for mud entrapment. I'm pretty sure within 5 years I'll be doing
> >> a
> >> tear-down. I'm actually thinking of saving up for the time when my engine
> >> decides to die. I might just do a complete rebuild with the following:
> >> 350 V8 w/ new transmission
> >> Fuel Injection
> >> Locking diffs front and rear
> >> Fiberglass tub
> >> Reinforced and "cleaned" frame with PROPER front and rear bumpers and tow
> >> hook placement.
> >>
> >> I'll probably be looking at about a $6000-7000 CDN hit for that job and
> >> about an entire year of working on it but it'll be a pretty nice beast
> >> when
> >> it's done. Then I'll go buy one of those "Jeeps are built, not bought"
> >> stickers ;p
> >>
> >> --
> >> griffin
> >> '85 Jeep CJ-7
> >> '97 Toyota Corolla SD
> >>
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:41A7C2B7.3BB07335@sympatico.ca...
> >> > Mud and dirt is the big issue I think Bill.
> >> >
> >> > When I tore down the Jeep for the 'glass body job, it took 2 days to
> >> > hose all the mud out of the frame. That stuff holds water and worse
> >> > salty water in the winter.
> >> >
> >> > I wonder if I should replace the frame tail pieces with C channel
> >> > instead of the square tubing I was thinking of? Thinking about it,
> >> > naw,
> >> > there isn't enough left to do a decent C channel job I don't think.
> >> >
> >> > Is that frame all C channel with big assed rivets in the corners? If
> >> > so
> >> > can it twist up like mine without tearing off cross members? My front
> >> > one broke too, that big wide one. All that is holding the front rails
> >> > is the warn winch mount.
> >> >
> >> > Man do I ever need a new frame..... :-(
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> >
> >> > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > Real Jeeps use open channel frames like the eighteen wheelers,
> >> > > that
> >> > > never catch water and rust out:
> >> > > http://www.----------.com/realJeepFrame.jpg
> >> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >> > > mailto:--------------------
> >> > >
> >> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > So here I am driving down the main drag in Toronto and hear/feel a
> >> > > > strange thump then scraping. Crap I think, there goes the muffler
> >> > > > or
> >> > > > tailpipe or something. Not loud, hmmm... I pull over and walk
> >> > > > back
> >> > > > looking at the guy behind me laughing and there is my frame
> >> crossmember
> >> > > > and stainless bumperette loops laying on the ground..... There was
> >> > > > a
> >> > > > left over piece if string I used to tie something once holding it
> >> > > > on.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Ouch!
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I knew it was getting ratty when my gas tank skid plate fell off a
> >> while
> >> > > > back but was hoping to get the winter out of it.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > My kid just came in laughing and asked what was holding the back
> >> springs
> >> > > > on. I can't figure that out either, they are sorta just hanging
> >> > > > there
> >> > > > on a cob web of rust....
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I have the gas tank hung off the body as it is via a couple big eye
> >> > > > hooks through the floor and cargo straps.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Oh well, I guess it is time to get some square tubing and cover the
> >> > > > frame tails and anchor the spring shackles and a new C channel
> >> > > > crossmember to them. Then to get a gas tank skid plate.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Anyone know if a YJ 20 gallon skid plate will fit a cj 20 gallon
> >> > > > tank?
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Meanwhile some bailing wire keeps it 'looking' like it belongs
> >> > > > there.....
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Mike
> >> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

I got lucky and rust did in another Jeep at 40K. It literally broke in
half I was told so it got parted out. I paid $400.00 for the long
block. This Jeep was so rusty, the oil pan on the engine was a spider
web pin cushion. I had to use my pan. LOL!

Last time I checked, Chrysler Canada was offering 258 short blocks for
$1200.00, $1500.00 with the head.

I have a tree in my driveway that my come-a-long hooks up to to swap
engines or I can rent an engine hoist for a half day and fifty bucks.
The engines are easy to swap out.

That $75.00 rubber valve cover gasket is the biggest rip off I have ever
seen! I got a new valve cover and bought that stupid thing thinking it
should be better. I was pouring oil out in 2 weeks.

My valve cover only has the two center rocker nuts holding it on, the
head isn't tapped for perimeter bolts and has been leak free for almost
4 years. I made it super clean on the mating surfaces first with an
acetone wipe down or maybe I used BBQ lighter fluid last time, don't
remember, but it has to be spotless. Even one fingerprint will wreck
the seal. I then gave the head surface a skim of permatex 'ultra' black
RTV, added the cork gasket, another skim of RTV on top of the cork and
added my plastic cover and torqued the two nuts to 15 inch pounds I
think it was.

Then comes the most important part! I let it sit without even breathing
on it for 24 hours like the directions say to let it properly 'cure'.

No leaks.

The PCV 'blowby' usually can be fixed easy. It is normally a failure in
the emissions crap.

I first trace the PCV line to the back of the carb. At the back part of
valve cover there is a real rubber elbow that goes jelly from oil and
collapses. If soft, replace it. Then behind the carb is a solenoid
thing. It was a defective part and should be replaced with a T
fitting. Then off this T a line goes to the charcoal canister. At idle
pinch this line to the canister closed. If the idle changes, the
canister purge valve is shot or the plumbing is wrong. The canister
should only purge when at speed and hot via a ported vacuum signal and
the CTO valve.

Mike

Greg wrote:
>
> Hey Mike, were did you get and how much for the engine, if I don't do
> something pretty quick I will have to hook my PCV lines up to the oil filler
> cap to keep oil recirculating :) New valve cover gasket only lasted about
> 1000 Km, gone again, at $75.00 Can. for it I don't want to put another on
> this engine, but like you I like and have decided to go with the 258, torque
> is unbelevable. Got a price from Canada engines, $1425.00 for rebuilt,
> $800.00 install, $130.00 misc. parts, be 3 grand by the time taxes were on.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41A8BDC2.2621BE27@sympatico.ca...
> > It took me about a year and a half in my driveway to do mine. I
> > stripped the frame and used rust converter first, then put rubber coat
> > on it.
> >
> > Unfortunately it was too little too late, the damage was done and my off
> > roading and swamp twisting has caused it to snap in 3 places in the last
> > year, now the end is toast. I will patch it up, but really need a new
> > frame. I have gotten 4 years out of it, could use another one or two
> > hopefully.
> >
> > I also debated engines and decided I liked the power and mileage the 258
> > gave me, so I stayed with it. Got a factory one with 40K on it and have
> > mine sitting around waiting for a refresh job.
> >
> > I am manually tuned up and mine just flies with that engine. I can
> > climb sand pit walls at 400 rpm without stalling and 4th will bury the
> > speedo.
> >
> > 350's suck gas. I get 11L/100km.
> >
> > The 'glass body is 'really' light eh. There is a gent here in Ontario
> > that makes sweet ones for a good price. All the metal parts, my front
> > Laredo chrome grill, the windshield, hard doors, top fit on like a
> > glove.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > griffin wrote:
> >>
> >> When you decide to do a frame job, you should drive down here and do mine
> >> at
> >> the same time. ;p Mine's no where near that bad but when I was taking my
> >> rear seat out I took a good look at the frame rails and all the common
> >> "spots" for mud entrapment. I'm pretty sure within 5 years I'll be doing
> >> a
> >> tear-down. I'm actually thinking of saving up for the time when my engine
> >> decides to die. I might just do a complete rebuild with the following:
> >> 350 V8 w/ new transmission
> >> Fuel Injection
> >> Locking diffs front and rear
> >> Fiberglass tub
> >> Reinforced and "cleaned" frame with PROPER front and rear bumpers and tow
> >> hook placement.
> >>
> >> I'll probably be looking at about a $6000-7000 CDN hit for that job and
> >> about an entire year of working on it but it'll be a pretty nice beast
> >> when
> >> it's done. Then I'll go buy one of those "Jeeps are built, not bought"
> >> stickers ;p
> >>
> >> --
> >> griffin
> >> '85 Jeep CJ-7
> >> '97 Toyota Corolla SD
> >>
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:41A7C2B7.3BB07335@sympatico.ca...
> >> > Mud and dirt is the big issue I think Bill.
> >> >
> >> > When I tore down the Jeep for the 'glass body job, it took 2 days to
> >> > hose all the mud out of the frame. That stuff holds water and worse
> >> > salty water in the winter.
> >> >
> >> > I wonder if I should replace the frame tail pieces with C channel
> >> > instead of the square tubing I was thinking of? Thinking about it,
> >> > naw,
> >> > there isn't enough left to do a decent C channel job I don't think.
> >> >
> >> > Is that frame all C channel with big assed rivets in the corners? If
> >> > so
> >> > can it twist up like mine without tearing off cross members? My front
> >> > one broke too, that big wide one. All that is holding the front rails
> >> > is the warn winch mount.
> >> >
> >> > Man do I ever need a new frame..... :-(
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> >
> >> > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > Real Jeeps use open channel frames like the eighteen wheelers,
> >> > > that
> >> > > never catch water and rust out:
> >> > > http://www.----------.com/realJeepFrame.jpg
> >> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >> > > mailto:--------------------
> >> > >
> >> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > So here I am driving down the main drag in Toronto and hear/feel a
> >> > > > strange thump then scraping. Crap I think, there goes the muffler
> >> > > > or
> >> > > > tailpipe or something. Not loud, hmmm... I pull over and walk
> >> > > > back
> >> > > > looking at the guy behind me laughing and there is my frame
> >> crossmember
> >> > > > and stainless bumperette loops laying on the ground..... There was
> >> > > > a
> >> > > > left over piece if string I used to tie something once holding it
> >> > > > on.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Ouch!
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I knew it was getting ratty when my gas tank skid plate fell off a
> >> while
> >> > > > back but was hoping to get the winter out of it.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > My kid just came in laughing and asked what was holding the back
> >> springs
> >> > > > on. I can't figure that out either, they are sorta just hanging
> >> > > > there
> >> > > > on a cob web of rust....
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I have the gas tank hung off the body as it is via a couple big eye
> >> > > > hooks through the floor and cargo straps.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Oh well, I guess it is time to get some square tubing and cover the
> >> > > > frame tails and anchor the spring shackles and a new C channel
> >> > > > crossmember to them. Then to get a gas tank skid plate.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Anyone know if a YJ 20 gallon skid plate will fit a cj 20 gallon
> >> > > > tank?
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Meanwhile some bailing wire keeps it 'looking' like it belongs
> >> > > > there.....
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Mike
> >> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's