On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires?

--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R


"twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message
news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ...
> Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to
> 'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position
> or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them
> various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control
> arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the
> pinion starts to point downward.
>
> If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to
> eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV
> driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock
> control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget
> in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon.
>
> If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and
> nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet
> is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range.
>
> JMHO.
>
> WillysGuy wrote:
>
> > Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that
of a 3"
> > lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get
to the
> > Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm
> > considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems
will I
> > have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the
arms)?
> > Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control
arms
> > for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Pete
>
> --
> __________________________________________________ _________
> tw
> 03 TJ Rubicon
> 01 XJ Sport
>
> There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
> -- Dave Barry
>
> Pronunciation: 'jEp
> Function: noun
> Date: 1940
>
> Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
> A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
> 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
> World War II.
>
> http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
> (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
> __________________________________________________ _________
>

 

On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires?

--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R


"twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message
news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ...
> Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to
> 'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position
> or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them
> various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control
> arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the
> pinion starts to point downward.
>
> If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to
> eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV
> driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock
> control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget
> in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon.
>
> If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and
> nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet
> is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range.
>
> JMHO.
>
> WillysGuy wrote:
>
> > Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that
of a 3"
> > lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get
to the
> > Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm
> > considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems
will I
> > have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the
arms)?
> > Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control
arms
> > for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Pete
>
> --
> __________________________________________________ _________
> tw
> 03 TJ Rubicon
> 01 XJ Sport
>
> There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
> -- Dave Barry
>
> Pronunciation: 'jEp
> Function: noun
> Date: 1940
>
> Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
> A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
> 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
> World War II.
>
> http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
> (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
> __________________________________________________ _________
>

 

On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires?

--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R


"twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message
news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ...
> Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to
> 'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position
> or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them
> various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control
> arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the
> pinion starts to point downward.
>
> If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to
> eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV
> driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock
> control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget
> in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon.
>
> If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and
> nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet
> is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range.
>
> JMHO.
>
> WillysGuy wrote:
>
> > Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that
of a 3"
> > lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get
to the
> > Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm
> > considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems
will I
> > have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the
arms)?
> > Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control
arms
> > for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Pete
>
> --
> __________________________________________________ _________
> tw
> 03 TJ Rubicon
> 01 XJ Sport
>
> There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
> -- Dave Barry
>
> Pronunciation: 'jEp
> Function: noun
> Date: 1940
>
> Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
> A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
> 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
> World War II.
>
> http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
> (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
> __________________________________________________ _________
>

 

"JimG" <jimg@cj7.com> wrote in message
news:vqd6sklud8ae29@corp.supernews.com...
> On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
> only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires?
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7, 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
> 4.56 D30-D44 SOA
> D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
> LockRight F&R
>


Jim, I noticed you have the Lock Right's in your Jeep. What is your opinion
on the locker in the front? I have one in my 2wd S10 pickup that is a
street/strip type vehicle, and it's great for dry pavement traction, but I
feel it doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners. I've had the
truck do a complete 360 on me on a wet road which caused me to have a seat
cover surgically removed, if you know what I mean. I haven't found a Jeep
here yet, but I was considering using the Lock Right, at least for the rear.
My concern here is that I will have to drive this thing in the winter, and I
don't want it acting like my S10 does. From what I've read here, I think the
best setup might be a Lock Right in the rear and an air locker in the front,
but would like opinions.

Chris

 

"JimG" <jimg@cj7.com> wrote in message
news:vqd6sklud8ae29@corp.supernews.com...
> On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
> only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires?
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7, 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
> 4.56 D30-D44 SOA
> D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
> LockRight F&R
>


Jim, I noticed you have the Lock Right's in your Jeep. What is your opinion
on the locker in the front? I have one in my 2wd S10 pickup that is a
street/strip type vehicle, and it's great for dry pavement traction, but I
feel it doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners. I've had the
truck do a complete 360 on me on a wet road which caused me to have a seat
cover surgically removed, if you know what I mean. I haven't found a Jeep
here yet, but I was considering using the Lock Right, at least for the rear.
My concern here is that I will have to drive this thing in the winter, and I
don't want it acting like my S10 does. From what I've read here, I think the
best setup might be a Lock Right in the rear and an air locker in the front,
but would like opinions.

Chris

 

"JimG" <jimg@cj7.com> wrote in message
news:vqd6sklud8ae29@corp.supernews.com...
> On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
> only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires?
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7, 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
> 4.56 D30-D44 SOA
> D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
> LockRight F&R
>


Jim, I noticed you have the Lock Right's in your Jeep. What is your opinion
on the locker in the front? I have one in my 2wd S10 pickup that is a
street/strip type vehicle, and it's great for dry pavement traction, but I
feel it doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners. I've had the
truck do a complete 360 on me on a wet road which caused me to have a seat
cover surgically removed, if you know what I mean. I haven't found a Jeep
here yet, but I was considering using the Lock Right, at least for the rear.
My concern here is that I will have to drive this thing in the winter, and I
don't want it acting like my S10 does. From what I've read here, I think the
best setup might be a Lock Right in the rear and an air locker in the front,
but would like opinions.

Chris

 

Explain further, because as I adjust my lower arms, my pinion angle changes.

Nathan Otis wrote:

> Lower arms are for wheelbase, upper arms are for pinion angle.
> n.
>
> "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ...
>
>>Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to
>>'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position
>>or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them
>>various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control
>>arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the
>>pinion starts to point downward.
>>
>>If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to
>>eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV
>>driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock
>>control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget
>>in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon.
>>
>>If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and
>>nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet
>>is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range.
>>
>>JMHO.
>>
>>WillysGuy wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that
>
> of a 3"
>
>>>lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get
>
> to the
>
>>>Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm
>>>considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems
>
> will I
>
>>>have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the
>
> arms)?
>
>>>Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control
>
> arms
>
>>>for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Pete
>>
>>--
>>________________________________________________ ___________
>>tw
>>03 TJ Rubicon
>>01 XJ Sport
>>
>>There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
>>-- Dave Barry
>>
>>Pronunciation: 'jEp
>>Function: noun
>>Date: 1940
>>
>>Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
>>A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
>>1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
>>World War II.
>>
>>http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
>>(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
>>________________________________________________ ___________
>>
>
>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

Explain further, because as I adjust my lower arms, my pinion angle changes.

Nathan Otis wrote:

> Lower arms are for wheelbase, upper arms are for pinion angle.
> n.
>
> "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ...
>
>>Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to
>>'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position
>>or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them
>>various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control
>>arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the
>>pinion starts to point downward.
>>
>>If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to
>>eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV
>>driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock
>>control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget
>>in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon.
>>
>>If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and
>>nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet
>>is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range.
>>
>>JMHO.
>>
>>WillysGuy wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that
>
> of a 3"
>
>>>lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get
>
> to the
>
>>>Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm
>>>considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems
>
> will I
>
>>>have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the
>
> arms)?
>
>>>Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control
>
> arms
>
>>>for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Pete
>>
>>--
>>________________________________________________ ___________
>>tw
>>03 TJ Rubicon
>>01 XJ Sport
>>
>>There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
>>-- Dave Barry
>>
>>Pronunciation: 'jEp
>>Function: noun
>>Date: 1940
>>
>>Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
>>A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
>>1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
>>World War II.
>>
>>http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
>>(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
>>________________________________________________ ___________
>>
>
>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

Explain further, because as I adjust my lower arms, my pinion angle changes.

Nathan Otis wrote:

> Lower arms are for wheelbase, upper arms are for pinion angle.
> n.
>
> "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ...
>
>>Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to
>>'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position
>>or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them
>>various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control
>>arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the
>>pinion starts to point downward.
>>
>>If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to
>>eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV
>>driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock
>>control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget
>>in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon.
>>
>>If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and
>>nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet
>>is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range.
>>
>>JMHO.
>>
>>WillysGuy wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that
>
> of a 3"
>
>>>lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get
>
> to the
>
>>>Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm
>>>considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems
>
> will I
>
>>>have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the
>
> arms)?
>
>>>Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control
>
> arms
>
>>>for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Pete
>>
>>--
>>________________________________________________ ___________
>>tw
>>03 TJ Rubicon
>>01 XJ Sport
>>
>>There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
>>-- Dave Barry
>>
>>Pronunciation: 'jEp
>>Function: noun
>>Date: 1940
>>
>>Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
>>A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
>>1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
>>World War II.
>>
>>http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
>>(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
>>________________________________________________ ___________
>>
>
>
>

--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw
03 TJ Rubicon
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html
(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

Hi Chris,

>What is your opinion on the locker in the front?
A front locker is a must-have for the wheelin' that I do... but can be
tricky in the shallow snow/ice. For shallow snow or ice I will sometimes
unlock one of the front hubs... that helps. For binding, I have the twin
sticks to disengage the front for sharp turns on the trail.

>doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners
Mine will only unlock if not accelerating in a turn... it then ratchets
nicely. I purposely let off the gas in turns so it will ratchet.... if I
don't it will sometimes build up and then pop loudly ("have a seat cover
surgically removed"). You definitely have to adjust your driving technique
with lockers on pavement. I find myself shifting gears as smoothly as
possible.... ease into the gas and don't accelerate in turns.

>air locker in the front
Not sure what the advantage would be over twin sticks (assumes 300 transfer
case). The twin sticks are much less expensive!

JimG


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:i8xpb.105718$832.73647@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>
> "JimG" <jimg@cj7.com> wrote in message
> news:vqd6sklud8ae29@corp.supernews.com...
> > On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2"
coil
> > only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires?
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7, 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
> > 4.56 D30-D44 SOA
> > D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
> > LockRight F&R
> >
>
>
> Jim, I noticed you have the Lock Right's in your Jeep. What is your
opinion
> on the locker in the front? I have one in my 2wd S10 pickup that is a
> street/strip type vehicle, and it's great for dry pavement traction, but I
> feel it doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners. I've had
the
> truck do a complete 360 on me on a wet road which caused me to have a seat
> cover surgically removed, if you know what I mean. I haven't found a Jeep
> here yet, but I was considering using the Lock Right, at least for the
rear.
> My concern here is that I will have to drive this thing in the winter, and
I
> don't want it acting like my S10 does. From what I've read here, I think
the
> best setup might be a Lock Right in the rear and an air locker in the
front,
> but would like opinions.
>
> Chris
>
>