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Locker abuse
Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually
needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part the weak link. I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I have. I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland that make the job sound pretty straight forward. He says "Remove the hub locks. Remove the brake rotors. Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the hubs off. Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the spindles off. Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. Assemble in reverse order. Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the spindles are tight. Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly disguised locking device; use it. Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." Is there anything else I need to know? And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
putting the axles back in. I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an SOB to come off first time. I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me because they can't be greased so got water contamination. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's TrailMarker wrote: > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
putting the axles back in. I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an SOB to come off first time. I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me because they can't be greased so got water contamination. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's TrailMarker wrote: > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
putting the axles back in. I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an SOB to come off first time. I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me because they can't be greased so got water contamination. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's TrailMarker wrote: > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful
putting the axles back in. I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an SOB to come off first time. I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me because they can't be greased so got water contamination. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's TrailMarker wrote: > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
Go directly to http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.shtml then click on
Index of Mods & Writeups, then click on "Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement". There is no better single source of Jeep help than Stu's website. The only additional thing I can suggest is replacing your D30's axleshafts with hardened axleshafts like the chromolly 4340 axleshafts from Warn, Alloy USA, or Superior Axle. Those are what will do more to prevent u-joint failures than anything else other than going to some uber-strong/expensive u-joint like CTM makes. These axleshafts have heat-treated hardened ears that hang onto the u-joints FAR more securly under stress so they don't break free and then break, taking everything with it. What few people understand is that it's more likely that the axleshaft ears have let go of the u-joint which caused the failure, than the u-joint itself failing first which is extremely rare. Jerry TrailMarker wrote: > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. > -- Jerry Bransford PP-ASEL N6TAY See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ |
Re: Locker abuse
Go directly to http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.shtml then click on
Index of Mods & Writeups, then click on "Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement". There is no better single source of Jeep help than Stu's website. The only additional thing I can suggest is replacing your D30's axleshafts with hardened axleshafts like the chromolly 4340 axleshafts from Warn, Alloy USA, or Superior Axle. Those are what will do more to prevent u-joint failures than anything else other than going to some uber-strong/expensive u-joint like CTM makes. These axleshafts have heat-treated hardened ears that hang onto the u-joints FAR more securly under stress so they don't break free and then break, taking everything with it. What few people understand is that it's more likely that the axleshaft ears have let go of the u-joint which caused the failure, than the u-joint itself failing first which is extremely rare. Jerry TrailMarker wrote: > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. > -- Jerry Bransford PP-ASEL N6TAY See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ |
Re: Locker abuse
Go directly to http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.shtml then click on
Index of Mods & Writeups, then click on "Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement". There is no better single source of Jeep help than Stu's website. The only additional thing I can suggest is replacing your D30's axleshafts with hardened axleshafts like the chromolly 4340 axleshafts from Warn, Alloy USA, or Superior Axle. Those are what will do more to prevent u-joint failures than anything else other than going to some uber-strong/expensive u-joint like CTM makes. These axleshafts have heat-treated hardened ears that hang onto the u-joints FAR more securly under stress so they don't break free and then break, taking everything with it. What few people understand is that it's more likely that the axleshaft ears have let go of the u-joint which caused the failure, than the u-joint itself failing first which is extremely rare. Jerry TrailMarker wrote: > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. > -- Jerry Bransford PP-ASEL N6TAY See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ |
Re: Locker abuse
Go directly to http://www.stu-offroad.com/index.shtml then click on
Index of Mods & Writeups, then click on "Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement". There is no better single source of Jeep help than Stu's website. The only additional thing I can suggest is replacing your D30's axleshafts with hardened axleshafts like the chromolly 4340 axleshafts from Warn, Alloy USA, or Superior Axle. Those are what will do more to prevent u-joint failures than anything else other than going to some uber-strong/expensive u-joint like CTM makes. These axleshafts have heat-treated hardened ears that hang onto the u-joints FAR more securly under stress so they don't break free and then break, taking everything with it. What few people understand is that it's more likely that the axleshaft ears have let go of the u-joint which caused the failure, than the u-joint itself failing first which is extremely rare. Jerry TrailMarker wrote: > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. > -- Jerry Bransford PP-ASEL N6TAY See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ |
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > putting the axles back in. > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer seals when I wrote that procedure. > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > SOB to come off first time. > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > the weak link. > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > have. > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > He says > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > Remove the brake rotors. > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > hubs off. > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > spindles off. > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > Assemble in reverse order. > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > spindles are tight. > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > disguised locking device; use it. > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > putting the axles back in. > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer seals when I wrote that procedure. > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > SOB to come off first time. > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > the weak link. > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > have. > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > He says > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > Remove the brake rotors. > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > hubs off. > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > spindles off. > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > Assemble in reverse order. > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > spindles are tight. > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > disguised locking device; use it. > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > putting the axles back in. > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer seals when I wrote that procedure. > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > SOB to come off first time. > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > the weak link. > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > have. > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > He says > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > Remove the brake rotors. > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > hubs off. > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > spindles off. > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > Assemble in reverse order. > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > spindles are tight. > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > disguised locking device; use it. > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > putting the axles back in. > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer seals when I wrote that procedure. > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > SOB to come off first time. > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > the weak link. > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > have. > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > He says > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > Remove the brake rotors. > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > hubs off. > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > spindles off. > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > Assemble in reverse order. > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > spindles are tight. > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > disguised locking device; use it. > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
"TrailMarker" <carrollcaboodle@netzero.com> wrote in message news:1117579664.178947.301350@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. That ring is a circlip. I don't recall right now, but I think that you can do fine without the circlip. If you haven't got it, it's no biggie, if you have got one, put it back on. You can put a bolt into the hole in the outboard end of the axle shaft to pull the axle out far enough to get to the groove for the clip. There are the wheel bearings to think about, and there is a grease seal where the hub goes onto the spindle. There are small needle bearings inside the spindle that the axle shaft rides on. And, Mike Romain reminds us there is the inner seal where the axles go into the pumpkin. If you manage to keep the alxes clean when you put them back in, you should be OK with the inner seal, and can avoid taking the diff cover off which will require a new gasket. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. I have lost track, are you still talking about the circlip? > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > WILL SOMEBODY PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE INNER SPINDLE NUT? Now that I am reading this, I seem to recall that the 80 ft pound figure is in error. > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. > |
Re: Locker abuse
"TrailMarker" <carrollcaboodle@netzero.com> wrote in message news:1117579664.178947.301350@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. That ring is a circlip. I don't recall right now, but I think that you can do fine without the circlip. If you haven't got it, it's no biggie, if you have got one, put it back on. You can put a bolt into the hole in the outboard end of the axle shaft to pull the axle out far enough to get to the groove for the clip. There are the wheel bearings to think about, and there is a grease seal where the hub goes onto the spindle. There are small needle bearings inside the spindle that the axle shaft rides on. And, Mike Romain reminds us there is the inner seal where the axles go into the pumpkin. If you manage to keep the alxes clean when you put them back in, you should be OK with the inner seal, and can avoid taking the diff cover off which will require a new gasket. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. I have lost track, are you still talking about the circlip? > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > WILL SOMEBODY PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE INNER SPINDLE NUT? Now that I am reading this, I seem to recall that the 80 ft pound figure is in error. > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. > |
Re: Locker abuse
"TrailMarker" <carrollcaboodle@netzero.com> wrote in message news:1117579664.178947.301350@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. That ring is a circlip. I don't recall right now, but I think that you can do fine without the circlip. If you haven't got it, it's no biggie, if you have got one, put it back on. You can put a bolt into the hole in the outboard end of the axle shaft to pull the axle out far enough to get to the groove for the clip. There are the wheel bearings to think about, and there is a grease seal where the hub goes onto the spindle. There are small needle bearings inside the spindle that the axle shaft rides on. And, Mike Romain reminds us there is the inner seal where the axles go into the pumpkin. If you manage to keep the alxes clean when you put them back in, you should be OK with the inner seal, and can avoid taking the diff cover off which will require a new gasket. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. I have lost track, are you still talking about the circlip? > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > WILL SOMEBODY PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE INNER SPINDLE NUT? Now that I am reading this, I seem to recall that the 80 ft pound figure is in error. > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. > |
Re: Locker abuse
"TrailMarker" <carrollcaboodle@netzero.com> wrote in message news:1117579664.178947.301350@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > the weak link. > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. That ring is a circlip. I don't recall right now, but I think that you can do fine without the circlip. If you haven't got it, it's no biggie, if you have got one, put it back on. You can put a bolt into the hole in the outboard end of the axle shaft to pull the axle out far enough to get to the groove for the clip. There are the wheel bearings to think about, and there is a grease seal where the hub goes onto the spindle. There are small needle bearings inside the spindle that the axle shaft rides on. And, Mike Romain reminds us there is the inner seal where the axles go into the pumpkin. If you manage to keep the alxes clean when you put them back in, you should be OK with the inner seal, and can avoid taking the diff cover off which will require a new gasket. I guess > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > have. I have lost track, are you still talking about the circlip? > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > He says > > "Remove the hub locks. > Remove the brake rotors. > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > hubs off. > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > spindles off. > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > Assemble in reverse order. > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > spindles are tight. > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > disguised locking device; use it. > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > WILL SOMEBODY PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE INNER SPINDLE NUT? Now that I am reading this, I seem to recall that the 80 ft pound figure is in error. > Is there anything else I need to know? > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > TrailMarker. > |
Re: Locker abuse
Hi Jeff,
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Jeff Strickland wrote: > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Hi Jeff,
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Jeff Strickland wrote: > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Hi Jeff,
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Jeff Strickland wrote: > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Hi Jeff,
There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Jeff Strickland wrote: > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even
the YJ D30 has inboard seals. The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals. Mike Jeff Strickland wrote: > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > > putting the axles back in. > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > seals when I wrote that procedure. > > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > > SOB to come off first time. > > > > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > > > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > > the weak link. > > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > > have. > > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > > He says > > > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > > Remove the brake rotors. > > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > > hubs off. > > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > > spindles off. > > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > > Assemble in reverse order. > > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > > spindles are tight. > > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > > disguised locking device; use it. > > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even
the YJ D30 has inboard seals. The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals. Mike Jeff Strickland wrote: > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > > putting the axles back in. > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > seals when I wrote that procedure. > > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > > SOB to come off first time. > > > > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > > > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > > the weak link. > > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > > have. > > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > > He says > > > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > > Remove the brake rotors. > > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > > hubs off. > > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > > spindles off. > > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > > Assemble in reverse order. > > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > > spindles are tight. > > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > > disguised locking device; use it. > > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even
the YJ D30 has inboard seals. The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals. Mike Jeff Strickland wrote: > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > > putting the axles back in. > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > seals when I wrote that procedure. > > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > > SOB to come off first time. > > > > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > > > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > > the weak link. > > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > > have. > > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > > He says > > > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > > Remove the brake rotors. > > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > > hubs off. > > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > > spindles off. > > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > > Assemble in reverse order. > > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > > spindles are tight. > > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > > disguised locking device; use it. > > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even
the YJ D30 has inboard seals. The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals. Mike Jeff Strickland wrote: > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > > putting the axles back in. > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > seals when I wrote that procedure. > > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > > SOB to come off first time. > > > > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > > > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > > the weak link. > > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > > have. > > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > > He says > > > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > > Remove the brake rotors. > > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > > hubs off. > > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > > spindles off. > > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > > Assemble in reverse order. > > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > > spindles are tight. > > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > > disguised locking device; use it. > > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > putting the axles back in. > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > SOB to come off first time. There's a trick, using power steering and a strategically-placed socket (or other piece of metal)... wedge something hard in there, then turn the steering... pops the hub assy right out. Caveat... mine came out easy, I didn't ever actually do this procedure... they went back in with anti-seize, hopefully I'll never have to find out if this works! __ Steve .. |
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > putting the axles back in. > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > SOB to come off first time. There's a trick, using power steering and a strategically-placed socket (or other piece of metal)... wedge something hard in there, then turn the steering... pops the hub assy right out. Caveat... mine came out easy, I didn't ever actually do this procedure... they went back in with anti-seize, hopefully I'll never have to find out if this works! __ Steve .. |
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > putting the axles back in. > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > SOB to come off first time. There's a trick, using power steering and a strategically-placed socket (or other piece of metal)... wedge something hard in there, then turn the steering... pops the hub assy right out. Caveat... mine came out easy, I didn't ever actually do this procedure... they went back in with anti-seize, hopefully I'll never have to find out if this works! __ Steve .. |
Re: Locker abuse
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > putting the axles back in. > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > SOB to come off first time. There's a trick, using power steering and a strategically-placed socket (or other piece of metal)... wedge something hard in there, then turn the steering... pops the hub assy right out. Caveat... mine came out easy, I didn't ever actually do this procedure... they went back in with anti-seize, hopefully I'll never have to find out if this works! __ Steve .. |
Re: Locker abuse
Thank you Captain BesideThePoint. The OP was asking specifically about an 85
CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet. "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@cox.net... > Hi Jeff, > There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All > the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: > http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Thank you Captain BesideThePoint. The OP was asking specifically about an 85
CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet. "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@cox.net... > Hi Jeff, > There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All > the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: > http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Thank you Captain BesideThePoint. The OP was asking specifically about an 85
CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet. "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@cox.net... > Hi Jeff, > There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All > the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: > http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Thank you Captain BesideThePoint. The OP was asking specifically about an 85
CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet. "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@cox.net... > Hi Jeff, > There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All > the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: > http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Really? My hubs have an inner and outer bearing, and the inner bearing is
protected by a grease seal between the bearing and the spindle. Am I missing something? Bill also said something about how a YJ is different, but I thought the OP asked about an '85 CJ. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429DACBF.22F24CFE@sympatico.ca... > Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even > the YJ D30 has inboard seals. > > The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is > fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be > tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The > YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals. > > Mike > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > > > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > > > putting the axles back in. > > > > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > seals when I wrote that procedure. > > > > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > > > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > > > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > > > SOB to come off first time. > > > > > > > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > > > > > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > > > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > > > the weak link. > > > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > > > have. > > > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > > > He says > > > > > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > > > Remove the brake rotors. > > > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > > > hubs off. > > > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > > > spindles off. > > > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > > > Assemble in reverse order. > > > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > > > spindles are tight. > > > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > > > disguised locking device; use it. > > > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
Really? My hubs have an inner and outer bearing, and the inner bearing is
protected by a grease seal between the bearing and the spindle. Am I missing something? Bill also said something about how a YJ is different, but I thought the OP asked about an '85 CJ. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429DACBF.22F24CFE@sympatico.ca... > Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even > the YJ D30 has inboard seals. > > The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is > fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be > tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The > YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals. > > Mike > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > > > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > > > putting the axles back in. > > > > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > seals when I wrote that procedure. > > > > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > > > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > > > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > > > SOB to come off first time. > > > > > > > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > > > > > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > > > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > > > the weak link. > > > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > > > have. > > > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > > > He says > > > > > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > > > Remove the brake rotors. > > > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > > > hubs off. > > > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > > > spindles off. > > > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > > > Assemble in reverse order. > > > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > > > spindles are tight. > > > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > > > disguised locking device; use it. > > > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
Really? My hubs have an inner and outer bearing, and the inner bearing is
protected by a grease seal between the bearing and the spindle. Am I missing something? Bill also said something about how a YJ is different, but I thought the OP asked about an '85 CJ. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429DACBF.22F24CFE@sympatico.ca... > Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even > the YJ D30 has inboard seals. > > The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is > fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be > tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The > YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals. > > Mike > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > > > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > > > putting the axles back in. > > > > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > seals when I wrote that procedure. > > > > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > > > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > > > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > > > SOB to come off first time. > > > > > > > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > > > > > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > > > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > > > the weak link. > > > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > > > have. > > > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > > > He says > > > > > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > > > Remove the brake rotors. > > > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > > > hubs off. > > > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > > > spindles off. > > > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > > > Assemble in reverse order. > > > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > > > spindles are tight. > > > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > > > disguised locking device; use it. > > > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
Really? My hubs have an inner and outer bearing, and the inner bearing is
protected by a grease seal between the bearing and the spindle. Am I missing something? Bill also said something about how a YJ is different, but I thought the OP asked about an '85 CJ. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:429DACBF.22F24CFE@sympatico.ca... > Not on mine. Mine only has inboard seals and his is a CJ D30 too. Even > the YJ D30 has inboard seals. > > The CJ axle has a dust flange or metal ring just under the yoke that is > fixed onto the axle. I have never seen one loose, but it likely can be > tapped back into place. If not, then a new axle might be needed. The > YJ has a plastic one, but still no seals. > > Mike > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:429CF6A3.31C481A9@sympatico.ca... > > > The seals are inboard at the pumpkin. You have to be clean and careful > > > putting the axles back in. > > > > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > seals when I wrote that procedure. > > > > > I use a sacrificial bolt and alternate cutting the steering side to side > > > so I can beat the crap out of it as I move it around the holes to remove > > > the spindle by pounding with a BFG, preferable 5 lb. They can be an > > > SOB to come off first time. > > > > > > > It has got to be the salt because my spindles come off pretty easily. > > > > > I hate those 'heavy duty' U-joints, they didn't last 8 months for me > > > because they can't be greased so got water contamination. > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > TrailMarker wrote: > > > > > > > > Well, I've had my front ARB a few weeks now. Yesterday, I actually > > > > needed it for the first time. I was climbing a steep rock hill. And so, > > > > naturally, I just busted my first front axle U-joint. I bought a H-D > > > > replacement - but hopefully this won't make some more expensive part > > > > the weak link. > > > > I'm looking for advice on the replacement job. This is for an '85 CJ-7 > > > > Dana 30 - passenger's side. Are there any gotcha's out there? Does > > > > anyone know any special tricks that would help me out? Do I also need > > > > to replace any seals or gaskets while I'm at it? One thing that has me > > > > worried is the metal "ring" at the outer end of the axle tube. I guess > > > > it's just a pressed in seal or guide. It's been knocked loose by the > > > > wobbling axle shaft. Does it press in place? Is it just a splash seal? > > > > I don't see this part on the exploded views in the books or catalogs I > > > > have. > > > > I did a Google search and found a couple of posts by Jeff Strickland > > > > that make the job sound pretty straight forward. > > > > He says > > > > > > > > "Remove the hub locks. > > > > Remove the brake rotors. > > > > Remove the large spindle nuts from inside the spindles and pull the > > > > hubs off. > > > > Remove 6 nuts holding the dust shield on and remove the shield. > > > > Use a large rubber mallet, or a board and a hammer to nudge the > > > > spindles off. > > > > Slide the axle shafts out and replace the UJoints. > > > > Assemble in reverse order. > > > > Torque the inner spindle nut to 80 pounds and spin the tire around > > > > several times and re-torque. Repeat until you are confident the > > > > spindles are tight. > > > > Torque the outer spindle nut to 50 pounds. DON'T FORGET the washer > > > > between these two nuts, and DON'T FORGET to bend one side over so it > > > > will hold the outside spindle nut.; This washer is really a cleverly > > > > disguised locking device; use it. > > > > Torque the dust shield nuts to 50 pounds." > > > > > > > > Is there anything else I need to know? > > > > And yes, I still made it up the rock face, and back out through some > > > > right slick and tricky stuff in 3-wheel drive. > > > > TrailMarker. |
Re: Locker abuse
Not on any I have taken apart....
Mike Jeff Strickland wrote: > > Thank you Captain BesideThePoint. The OP was asking specifically about an 85 > CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet. > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@cox.net... > > Hi Jeff, > > There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All > > the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: > > http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- > > > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Not on any I have taken apart....
Mike Jeff Strickland wrote: > > Thank you Captain BesideThePoint. The OP was asking specifically about an 85 > CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet. > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@cox.net... > > Hi Jeff, > > There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All > > the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: > > http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- > > > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
Re: Locker abuse
Not on any I have taken apart....
Mike Jeff Strickland wrote: > > Thank you Captain BesideThePoint. The OP was asking specifically about an 85 > CJ, there is an outer seal on the hub, where the hub and spindle meet. > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:429D0F4B.8CFEC25B@cox.net... > > Hi Jeff, > > There is one outer seal on the YJ axle disconnect side only. All > > the rest of the Dana 30s just use the one per side at the housing: > > http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- > > > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > > > There are outer seals too, Mike. I think I was referring to these outer > > > seals when I wrote that procedure. |
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