lock core seize
12-03-2006, 09:47 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
To add to Doug's comments: A good locksmith can take an old key, measure
it, and recut a new one to factory specs. Costs a bit more than just
cutting a key but not much. My local charges $10 to $15 for various
rekeying jobs.
I'd just pull out the old core (take off inner panel, unhook linkage,
bash out the spring clip), and the key to a good locksmith, you should
get a new core and a good key for reasonable $$
DougW wrote:
> adam wrote:
>
>>Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the
>>door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking
>>mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the
>>core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the
>>tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the
>>driver side will lock but not unlock.
>
>
> A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends
> in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired
> and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground.
> Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out
> they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....
>
> Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key
> or had one cut from an old key.
>
> Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an
> older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep
> a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good
> key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then
> cut a new one for you.
>
> You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be
> lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder
> is the best stuff to use.
>
it, and recut a new one to factory specs. Costs a bit more than just
cutting a key but not much. My local charges $10 to $15 for various
rekeying jobs.
I'd just pull out the old core (take off inner panel, unhook linkage,
bash out the spring clip), and the key to a good locksmith, you should
get a new core and a good key for reasonable $$
DougW wrote:
> adam wrote:
>
>>Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the
>>door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking
>>mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the
>>core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the
>>tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the
>>driver side will lock but not unlock.
>
>
> A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends
> in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired
> and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground.
> Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out
> they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....
>
> Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key
> or had one cut from an old key.
>
> Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an
> older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep
> a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good
> key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then
> cut a new one for you.
>
> You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be
> lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder
> is the best stuff to use.
>
12-04-2006, 10:35 AM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Thanks for the clarification.
I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.
Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.
Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.
They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.
Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.
Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.
They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
12-04-2006, 10:35 AM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Thanks for the clarification.
I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.
Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.
Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.
They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.
Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.
Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.
They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
12-04-2006, 10:35 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Thanks for the clarification.
I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.
Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.
Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.
They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.
Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.
Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.
They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
12-04-2006, 10:55 AM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Mike Romain wrote:
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
--
DougW
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
--
DougW
12-04-2006, 10:55 AM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Mike Romain wrote:
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
--
DougW
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
--
DougW
12-04-2006, 10:55 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Mike Romain wrote:
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
--
DougW
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
--
DougW
12-04-2006, 02:05 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Thanks to All...This is a great forum!
Best,
Adam
On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW
Best,
Adam
On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW
12-04-2006, 02:05 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Thanks to All...This is a great forum!
Best,
Adam
On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW
Best,
Adam
On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW
12-04-2006, 02:05 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Thanks to All...This is a great forum!
Best,
Adam
On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW
Best,
Adam
On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW
